My E-HERMS Build - LOTS OF PICS

CornyKegs 728
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looking good but i would probably enclose those wires with wire nuts. espically since its in a place where it could catch something while you are rolling it.
 
jtsims21 said:
looking good but i would probably enclose those wires with wire nuts. espically since its in a place where it could catch something while you are rolling it.
Click to expand...

I agree with this. Did you think about just mounting a metal 2-gang outlet box and the running the wires and making the connections with the wire nuts inside the box? They are only a few dollars and you could add one of the solid metal plates with gasket on the open side. It might not be completely waterproof, but it would certainly protect those connections way better.
 
Absolutely love this build and our current build is very similar but much more ghetto ha. I have a question about the positioning of your element with the dip tube. Our current setup the element is too close to our dip tube and I assume it's because of where we mounted it. How did you find the proper placing? Thanks
 
SeanGC said:
Absolutely love this build and our current build is very similar but much more ghetto ha. I have a question about the positioning of your element with the dip tube. Our current setup the element is too close to our dip tube and I assume it's because of where we mounted it. How did you find the proper placing? Thanks
Click to expand...

I just got really lucky. I was planning on just bending them if I had an issue. The elements are close to the dip tubes in both the HLT and the BK, but don't touch. I would say they are 1/2" away.
 
rsklhm10 said:
I agree with this. Did you think about just mounting a metal 2-gang outlet box and the running the wires and making the connections with the wire nuts inside the box? They are only a few dollars and you could add one of the solid metal plates with gasket on the open side. It might not be completely waterproof, but it would certainly protect those connections way better.
Click to expand...

great idea thanks. i am definately going to do this.
 
Hi all -

got my control panel mounted, hoses built, and a leaky pump fixed.

I also forgot to put the heating element in the HLT...so like a dumba** I dumped about 4 gallons of water in the HLT and watched it poor onto the garage floor. stupid :)

other than that, test went well.

I also ran autotune on the 2352 PID...and it only ran for about 15 minutes.

You will see that I have a temperature differential of 4 degrees. Does this seem normal? I only ask because Kal's temp diff is 0.

here is a video...enjoy :

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8_X539LDNA&context=C30c8b11ADOEgsToPDskLfhVFaooAjjFJEzAFSAW0p]E-HERMS Water Test - YouTube[/ame]
 
What a beauty! I've been watching your build step-by-step, and am planning to do my own e-system build over the winter months. I'll look forward to seeing the video of your first brew next weekend! Cheers! :mug:
 
canyonbrewer said:
You will see that I have a temperature differential of 4 degrees. Does this seem normal? I only ask because Kal's temp diff is 0.
Click to expand...

Did you calibrate the temp with another thermo? You have to adjust PD or DP setting(forget which one exactly, need to look it up)? The manual states anything over 5 is probably a wiring issue. Mine was 10 and wiggling the connector I saw it float more. I replaced my connecter and resoldered and now it is with a 1.7 diff, which I adjusted to.
 
milldoggy said:
Did you calibrate the temp with another thermo? You have to adjust PD or DP setting(forget which one exactly, need to look it up)? The manual states anything over 5 is probably a wiring issue. Mine was 10 and wiggling the connector I saw it float more. I replaced my connecter and resoldered and now it is with a 1.7 diff, which I adjusted to.
Click to expand...

Thanks Milldoggy...

I also read that....some folks on the forums also said that reversed Thermocouple to PID wiring could cause it to be off.

Were your thermos calibrated when you saw 10 deg differential between HLT and MASH?

I calibrated both thermocouples with my ThermaPen as it was warning up - right on the money. No change to Pb needed. Wouldn't this calibration mean that my wiring is good?

Could it be that I am just losing 4 degrees in transfer? Do you think that having grain in the MT will allow the MT to hold a closer diff to the HLT?
 
I used a RTD, so I am not sure for a Thermocouple. When mine where I off, I would calibrate it at 120, them when I was at 160, I was 10 off. So the calibration was not consistent across all temp ranges. Swap your probes and see what they read then. Is the water temp with the thermopen match the PIDs? What is the temp of the water coming back into the mash tun, is it getting heated to 155?
 
milldoggy said:
I used a RTD, so I am not sure for a Thermocouple. When mine where I off, I would calibrate it at 120, them when I was at 160, I was 10 off. So the calibration was not consistent across all temp ranges. Swap your probes and see what they read then. Is the water temp with the thermopen match the PIDs? What is the temp of the water coming back into the mash tun, is it getting heated to 155?
Click to expand...

I am using RTD too...my bad.

the water coming back into the mash tun was 155.
 
just curious, do you have a wiring diagram for your system? i was thinking of going the 1 receptacle route for the 2 elements, but still haven't decided yet.

btw, that setup is amazing. not much else i can say. purely amazing.
 
El_Cabrito said:
just curious, do you have a wiring diagram for your system? i was thinking of going the 1 receptacle route for the 2 elements, but still haven't decided yet.

btw, that setup is amazing. not much else i can say. purely amazing.
Click to expand...

No wiring diagram....by its wired just like Kals.

Control Panel (Part 2)

Basically, it's a single PID setup. The PID on the right controls the single ssr which in turn powers the single receptacle. The PID on the left is just for monitoring, and doesn't control anything.

In this setup, I recommend using the Auber 2352 so you can switch bumpless between auto and manual mode for the boil element.

Using 2 30 amp Dpdt mechanical relays. One for power in, one for power to the element receptacle. This gives me a way to physically ensure power is disconnected from the element.

Hope this helps!!
 
System looks great. As for the difference between the mash tun and HLT, I am unsure on why you are seeing the difference. I just recently switched to a kettle mash tun from a cooler mash tun and have not had that problem. Then again, I never ran a wet test so I am unsure if my system would do the same. Maybe I will go fire it up and find out.

On a side note, where are you located in SC? I just recently moved from Columbia a couple years ago and will likely be moving back this coming year...
 
Do you guys mean the PID is reading 1 degree lower? Have you confirmed with a separate "mechanical" thermometer? PID's have adjustments and you can adjust to read the same as your HLT
 
In my case all 3 PIDs were calibrated individually.

When I mash in the temp of the mash drops because the grain is cooler than water from HLT. Temp will keep increasing because it is constantly circulated through HERMS coil, but it never reaches the temperature of water in HLT. Mine gets to 1 degree lower than the water in HLT.
 
konrad said:
In my case all 3 PIDs were calibrated individually.

When I mash in the temp of the mash drops because the grain is cooler than water from HLT. Temp will keep increasing because it is constantly circulated through HERMS coil, but it never reaches the temperature of water in HLT. Mine gets to 1 degree lower than the water in HLT.
Click to expand...

Konrad, did you have to use the temp offset in any of the PIDS? For calibration of the RTDs?
 
I really like the some what simplified design From kals The electric brewery. have you drawn up any plans? this is definitely something i want to build my self.
 
rvklein said:
Would you mind breaking down the parts you used for the ports where the temp sensors are placed?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Sure! They are basically the exact same as Kal's. Using a standard 1/2" NPT Tee fitting with a 1/2" X 1/4" bushing. Also using TC x NPT adapters for liquid connections.

Here are some pics:

Here is the whole removable assembly - good for cleaning

2011-12-30%252520002.JPG


this shows how the probes connect to the tee - i have no idea what that electrical connector is called - it's the standard one that comes with the Auber RTDs

2011-12-30%252520005.JPG


here it is plugged in

2011-12-30%252520004.JPG


here it is installed on my rig/kettle output. The tee also allows the hose to connect straight down and avoid kinking.

2011-12-30%252520008.JPG


hope this helps!
 
would you be able to give a control panel parts list? i'm trying to make mine similar just having trouble figuring out what parts to cut from Kals design.
 
Atog said:
Same hear.
Click to expand...

Did brew 10g of edworts last weekend. Got 94% mash efficiency....way more than i expected. Pitched at 1.063. Ha. Used notty and it was the most viloent ferm i have ever had. Had to switch to blowoff for the first time.

Sorry guys pics coming soon.
 
mamerong said:
would you be able to give a control panel parts list? i'm trying to make mine similar just having trouble figuring out what parts to cut from Kals design.
Click to expand...

remember that only 1 pid controls 1 element out receptacle. I phsyically unlplug the HLT/HERMS element after the mash, and then plug in the boil element. same pid controls HLT temp and Boil.

this is just from memory:

2 Auber 2352 PIDS- one controls the element, other just for monitoring - you could get away with only one.

1 Auber ASL-51 timer

2 30 DPDT contactors - one for main power in, one for power to element

1 40 amp auber ssr and external heatsink

1 L14-30r flush receptacle - for main power in

1 L9-30r flush receptacle - for element out power - you can probably

2 flush mount xlr receptacles - for temp probes

3 green illuminated switches 22mm - 1 for main power (controls power in relay) and 2 for pumps

2 non-illuminated selector switches 22mm - 1 controls alarm, 1 controls power to element via the element relay

1 110v pilot alarm - wired to sound from any source, either of the 2 PIDs or timer

1 240v yellow pilot light - wired to let me know when element is actually getting power (both relay is engaged and PID is sending signal)

all the parts came from mcmaster, pioneerbreaker, and auber
 
Impressive build!

I noticed you mounted your herms coil as high as possible on the HLT keg wall. Was there a reason for this?
 
ahave said:
Impressive build!

I noticed you mounted your herms coil as high as possible on the HLT keg wall. Was there a reason for this?
Click to expand...

wanted to keep enough clearance for the element and pickup tube below.

the coild doesn't rest on anything. it is held up completely by the swagelok fittings and it's own strength
 
ok - here are some pics of the first brew last weekend. My beginner buddies came over and decided to brew an extract batch in the driveway, so I spent my spare time helping them, and didn't get as many pics or enought focus time with my brew.

filtering brew water. I use an potable water hose and filter with flow less than 1 gallon per minute. It was my first time with this filter, and there was noticably less chorine smell/taste to the water.

2012-01-07%252520001.JPG


21 lbs of the goods - turns out too much - my efficency was 94% - way more than I expected on the first run.

2012-01-07%252520005.JPG


heating up HLT and Mash Water - i start with the HLT full and my strike water already in the MT recirculating. This works well, and I don't have to top off my HLT for sparge.

2012-01-07%252520003.JPG


just mashed in - recirc started back up.

2012-01-07%252520006.JPG


starting sparge - you can see the grain has settled nicely into a filter bed - also, no fancy sparge aparatus for me. Just a silicone hose. clamp won't be needed next time - turns out I need an street elbow on the inside of the mash return to coax the hose to coil

2012-01-07%252520007.JPG


sweet sweet wort

2012-01-07%252520008.JPG


my chilling setup. I am not happy with this mess of hoses - gonna figure something cleaner out before next brew

ground water was 58 degrees. I was able to chill into fermenters at 60 degrees after a little bit of re-circ. Probably took 8 minutes total.

2012-01-07%252520010.JPG


carboy in the freezer - pitched notty at 1.063

2012-01-08%252520003.JPG


here is a video of the beginning of fermentation:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PSV4iHu58HU&context=C30c8b11ADOEgsToPDskLfhVFaooAjjFJEzAFSAW0p]Active Fermentation - YouTube[/ame]
 
canyonbrewer said:
21 lbs of the goods - turns out too much - my efficency was 94% - way more than I expected on the first run.
Click to expand...

oh wow

I think if you added more elbows onto the plate chiller it would be a little bit more clean.
 

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