Ringmaster
Well-Known Member
well if i use corn sugar instead, should i use the same amount that i would have used with table sugar?
well if i use corn sugar instead, should i use the same amount that i would have used with table sugar?
i don't get what a volume of CO2 is.. seems like i should just use table sugar instead.. save me some head ache and a trip to the store. i'm bottling tomorrow anyway.
Oh and can i let it carbonate in the fridge? figured it would be easier then just letting it sit around for a week.
Basically a volume of CO2 is how much gas is dissolved in the beer. Think of it like a bottle of beer may contain 2.5 bottles worth of CO2 in the beer. One part beer and 2.5 parts CO2.
Ok so I just mixed 1lb light DME with Whispering Wheat HME + Vienna HME, boiled 30 minutes and added hallertau @ 10 min. It's super dark and hoppy, more so than I expected, but we shall see what happens in a few weeks.. I'll report back.
I ended up putting these priming sugar tablets in the beer so i wouldn't have to measure it out.
They were kind of neat i just threw them in after filling the bottle, like 9 to a bottle so i just hope they don't blow up.. :cross:
Anyway, now i got some weird black floating stuff in each bottle.. i think it might be the sugar that just looks black because the bottles are dark. The sugar tables that were on the bottom seem to have dissolved so this might make sense.
Or some evil bacteria got into my beer and if i drink it i'll die.
I'm not all that sure which, but i was pretty clean and used sterile equipment so i'm leaning towards the first one..
Or it could be the yeast i really don't know, this is my first time. Anyone got any ideas?
Thanks, congratulations on the upgrade!
yeah i doubled what the package said for high carbonation in a beer half the size. Then i took one down because i was afraid it might not be as simple as doubling it.
So they say 5 for high carbonation, so i made it 9.
Yeah i just put them in yesterday so it makes sense, i don't think they'll be flat because low carbonation was supposed to be 3 tablets. And well 6 is a lot less then 9. Now i wish i had put 11 though
I don't know how hard it is to pour the sugar into each one but i'll tell you now, those sugar tablets are extremely convenient. I just threw them in after i poured the beer into each bottle. They sink right to the bottom.
The tablets were neat but they were like $4 next to the sugar was like .75 cents at a home-brew store so i felt kinda weird for buying them but i didn't have to sterilize anything besides the beer bottles, and they were a lot easier then i imagine pouring sugar in each bottle would have been.
Oh yeah, one more question. These Bottles they gave us, the plastic ones? they have a number 1 in that triangle thing. I hear we are only supposed to use them once.. so like next batch i have to buy more beer bottles?
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Recipe: Irish Red Ale - Mr Beer
Brewer: Dan
Asst Brewer:
Style: Irish Red Ale
TYPE: Extract
Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 2.00 gal
Boil Size: 2.50 gal
Estimated OG: 1.056 SG
Estimated FG: 1.013 SG
Estimated ABV: 5.5%
Estimated Color: 15.5 SRM
Estimated IBU: 26.5 IBU
Boil Time: 60 Minutes
Ingredients:
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Amount Item Type % or IBU
3 lbs Pale Liquid Extract (2.5 SRM) Extract 78.74 %
8.0 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 13.12 %
4.0 oz Melanoiden Malt (27.0 SRM) Grain 6.56 %
1.0 oz Roasted Barley (500.0 SRM) Grain 1.57 %
0.50 oz Goldings, East Kent [4.50 %] (60 min) Hops 20.8 IBU
0.25 oz Goldings, East Kent [4.50 %] (15 min) Hops 5.7 IBU
1 Pkgs Nottingham (Danstar #-) Yeast-Ale
Procedure:
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1. Heat 2.5 gallons of water to 155F
2. Place crushed grains into bag and add to water
3. Steep grains for 30 min at 155F (at least keep the temp between 145F and 160F, don't let it ever get above 170F)
4. After 30 min, lift grains in and out of water a few times, like a tea bag (do not squeeze the bag)
5. Let most of the water drip out of grain bag back into the pot
5. Heat the wort to boiling
6. Remove wort from heat
7. Completely dissolve all extract into wort
8. Bring wort back to boil (be very careful for a boilover here)
9. Place bittering hops in hop sack and place in boiling wort (watch for boilover)
10. Start 60 min timer
11. At 15 min left, add flavor hops to hop sack (watch for boilover)
12. At 10 min left, get ice bath ready
13. At 0 min left, remove wort from heat and place in ice bath
14. Sanitize fermenter
15. Once wort is cooled to 80F pour into fermenter
16. Sprinkle dry yeast onto wort
17. Close up fermenter and place somewhere dark and warm
18. Ferment at 65F - 75F for two weeks
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If you are helping him with the temperature control it should be fine. On that note, I don't remember the kit I just bought coming with a thermometer, will I need to buy a one before making my first batch?
I am wondering if it would be worse to bottle the beers on tuesday (Started fermenting wednesday) or to transport the Mr. Beer keg full and bottle once I am moved back in MA? Any suggestion?
How critical is the temperature during fermentation? I was hooking up a floor warming system just now and the thermostat measured 61 degrees. Is it maybe too cold in the basement to keep the fermenter down there? Mr. Beer says to hold it between 68-76 degrees.
Thanks for the responses. I'll let the rest of the bottles sit a while longer then and continue drinking my Sierra Nevada until then. I'm recycling the bottles, they seem the perfect size for bottling my own batches.
How critical is the temperature during fermentation? I was hooking up a floor warming system just now and the thermostat measured 61 degrees. Is it maybe too cold in the basement to keep the fermenter down there? Mr. Beer says to hold it between 68-76 degrees.
Thanks for the responses. I'll let the rest of the bottles sit a while longer then and continue drinking my Sierra Nevada until then. I'm recycling the bottles, they seem the perfect size for bottling my own batches.
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