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Thank you for the advice. I'm on page 75 of this thread now. The more I read, the less worried I am about how it will turn out. :D
 
Just don't check the other threads, or you'll start planning huge brewing rigs! I know, b/c I did it and have a huge file in google sketchup now, dedicated to an all-grain setup idea.
 
I have to get a house to build an addition on to, it'll probably be close to my gun room and reloading area, which should be pretty close to my recording studio. None of this can happen in the garage, because that's where the motorcycles and shop will live.

Must. Find. Sugar Momma. Soon.

:mug:
 
Scottish Wee Heavy

RECIPE INCLUDES:
1 Can Bewitched Red Ale
1 Can Mellow Amber UME
1 Pouch Booster™ (thrown out)
1 Packet Dry Brewing Yeast (under lid of beer mix)
1 Packet One-Step™ Sanitizing Cleanser

YOU PR0VIDE:
1/2 Cup Brown Sugar
2 Tablespoons Butterscotch Schnapps (optional)

This is what I'm going to do:

1 Can Bewitched Red Ale
1 Can Mellow Amber UME
1lb Amber LME
1/2lb 60L Crystal Malts (in grain bag)
1/2 Cup Brown Sugar
2 Tablespoons Butterscotch Schnapps
1 Packet Dry Brewing Yeast (to kill)
Nottingham Ale Yeast (dry)

----
4-cups of water in a pot, place the crystal malt in the water and bring it to 150 degrees and leave it in there for 30min at that temp, remove the bag (letting it drip but not squeezing). Bringing it to a boil and tossing in the mr. beer yeast to kill it (makes for good yeast food, bunch of cannibals), then removing from heat and stirring in the brown sugar. Then I'll stir in all the extracts, pour it into the fermenter (that will have 4-quarts of water), and then top it off with water till the 8.5 mark, add the schnapps and stir stir stir, take a gravity reading, then pitch the yeast, wait 5, stir, then seal and ferment.
---

thoughts, comments, concerns? I've never done the crystal malt before so that was what I could gather to do.
 
Looks OK to me on the crystal malt. Are you planning on using the dry yeast packet that came with the mix or are you going to use a different brand of yeast?

oh, I'm getting Nottingham Ale Yeast to actually pitch. The Mr. Beer yeast is to kill in the boil so the nottingham ale has some additional nutrients.

unless Safale S-04 Ale Yeast would be a better yeast to use for a wee heavy?
 
Man, epic thread!

I read most of it, but started skipping pages after I got into the 120's!

I, like many others, brewed my original Mr Beer per the directions, I'm just waiting for my 2 weeks, so I can bottle and start the carb/conditioning.

But, I'm already thinking of my second go. When the Mr Beer fermenter is empty again, I plan on getting it going again.

What do you all think of:
1 (entire) can of coopers draught.
1# dark amber DME
10 min boil with .5 oz kent goldings
and dry hopped @ 1 week with .25oz kent goldings

Too much? Or would that turn into a nice full, rich, beer?
 
I got a Mr. Beer for Christmas, followed directions to the T, and have been watching my beer ferment since Christmas morning. I checked my beer today( a week) and i can still see Bubbles coming to the surface. Here is my question. My fermenter is in my basement, which is a steady 59 degrees fahrenheit. I was planning on leaving the beer( the Mr. Beer Cowboy lager) in primary for 2 weeks, but with the low temperatures in my basement, would 3 weeks be a better choice for primary time?
 
The cowboy lager is not really the same type of lager that one brews at temperatures much lower than this. I have made this kit early on in my brewing and let it ferment over 3 weeks at 64 F it it turned out fine. Did you use the booster pack or did you add a can of unhopped malt extract?
 
At cooler temps it wouldn't hurt to keep it on the fermenter another week. Did you use the MrBeer yeast? The Clan from MrBeerFans tend to use the 2-2-2 method. 2 weeks ferment, Bottle wait 2 weeks, Fridge wait 2 weeks. Then try a drink, some of the recipes take a little longer to reach maturity.
 
MSA, i used the booster, not dme. Call it impatience, but i couldn't wait until i had a chance to get to my LHBS to start brewing. Banjo, i've left it in there for one week, my inner debate was another week in the fermenter or 2 more weeks, since my ambient temperature around the fermenter was in the high 50's. Regardless, I'm going to wait two weeks in primary at the very least with this batch. I was just wondering if another week in primary would really benefit me that much in the flavor department, or if it's not worth the extra time.
 
MSA, i used the booster, not dme. Call it impatience, but i couldn't wait until i had a chance to get to my LHBS to start brewing. Banjo, i've left it in there for one week, my inner debate was another week in the fermenter or 2 more weeks, since my ambient temperature around the fermenter was in the high 50's. Regardless, I'm going to wait two weeks in primary at the very least with this batch. I was just wondering if another week in primary would really benefit me that much in the flavor department, or if it's not worth the extra time.

I used the booster and Mr. Beer yeast on my first batch. I wanted to see what the quality was on the basic ingredient. It made beer. It wasn't the best beer. It was a bit cidery and slightly thin, but I drank every last drop and moved on to improving the Mr. Beer kit as well as doing full five gallon extract batches. Now, about a year later, I'm on to partial mash batches. I've been pushing some extract and PM batches through the last few months to fill up the keg pipeline and them I'm shooting for my first all grain recipe in a few months. You'll be there soon enough! :mug:
 
I got a Mr. Beer for Christmas, followed directions to the T, and have been watching my beer ferment since Christmas morning. I checked my beer today( a week) and i can still see Bubbles coming to the surface. Here is my question. My fermenter is in my basement, which is a steady 59 degrees fahrenheit. I was planning on leaving the beer( the Mr. Beer Cowboy lager) in primary for 2 weeks, but with the low temperatures in my basement, would 3 weeks be a better choice for primary time?

If you're using the yeast that came under the lid of the HME from Mr Beer, you need to warm it up. The Mr Beer yeast won't do much at temperatures below 65. Mr Beer's documentation says it doesn't ferment below 65. It might ferment slowly at 64, but it's not likely to be doing anything at 59.

You can try sticking it in a cooler and putting some bottles filled with warm water in with the keg. I've put a heating pad over the keg. Putting the pad under it would heat better, but I was concerned about the direct contact and didn't need to raise the temperature much.

Do you have a thermometer on the keg? If not, go to a store with a pet department and get a stick-on thermometer for fish tanks. That will give you a better idea of the keg's temperature.
 
Man, epic thread!

I read most of it, but started skipping pages after I got into the 120's!

I, like many others, brewed my original Mr Beer per the directions, I'm just waiting for my 2 weeks, so I can bottle and start the carb/conditioning.

But, I'm already thinking of my second go. When the Mr Beer fermenter is empty again, I plan on getting it going again.

What do you all think of:
1 (entire) can of coopers draught.
1# dark amber DME
10 min boil with .5 oz kent goldings
and dry hopped @ 1 week with .25oz kent goldings

Too much? Or would that turn into a nice full, rich, beer?

I think my post go somewhat lost, being my first, and getting held for moderators to see.

So, would a beer like this end up somewhat like porter? I know I'll need to do many brews so I'll get the feel for how things will end up.
 
I've been using Mr Beer for around 2.5 years now. I start with their HMEs and usually add a pound of DME in place of the booster. The beers come out very good. I've steeped crushed grains and made other mods to the basic recipes and love the outcome. So does my wife. I'd like to move on the 5 gallon batches, but I'm having so much fun with this.
 
The has been 59 degrees fahrenheit according to my thermometer. The basement fluctuates with the heat in the house, but i put a thermometer on the keg to keep track of the temperature. I know it developed a krausen, and now that is gone, but i still have bubbling. I'm assuming the less than ideal temperatures for this yeast means i will need to leave it in primary for longer, i was thinking an extra week. Then i can bottle it and move it to a warmer locale to condition and carb.
 
Be careful, now. I went in for a siphon and hydrometer and came home with a new five gallon kit. :)

I know this is a few months ago but I had to confirm this.

I went in for a couple pounds of DME since my Mr Beer kit isn't here yet and I planned to replace the booster right away. Well, I left with 2 5 gallon bottling buckets (to ferment in so I can transfer to another bottling bucket using the spigot instead of a wand/siphon) and the stuff to do 2 5 gallon brews. One's already in the basement 3 days into the ferment. Still haven't seen the Mr Beer kit yet!
 
I received a Mr. Beer kit as a Christmas gift from my mother (She knows me too well). I know really nothing about home brewing, but I have a batch fermenting and I am very excited to continue :) I just have a few questions:

Why is Mr.Beer looked down upon exactly?

And if I were looking to upgrade slowly but surely, where could I find a good website with equipment?

Thanks, and I look forward to discussing the brews with you all!
 
I received a Mr. Beer kit as a Christmas gift from my mother (She knows me too well). I know really nothing about home brewing, but I have a batch fermenting and I am very excited to continue :) I just have a few questions:

Why is Mr.Beer looked down upon exactly?

And if I were looking to upgrade slowly but surely, where could I find a good website with equipment?

Thanks, and I look forward to discussing the brews with you all!

Welcome to the forum and congrats on the present. Beer it's the best present you can give or receive.
Look to your local homebrew store first for upgrade equipment and supplies. If that dosen't help, there are several vendors on this site that can and will help out.
Cheers
Jay
 
Scottish Wee Heavy

RECIPE INCLUDES:
1 Can Bewitched Red Ale
1 Can Mellow Amber UME
1 Pouch Booster™ (thrown out)
1 Packet Dry Brewing Yeast (under lid of beer mix)
1 Packet One-Step™ Sanitizing Cleanser

YOU PR0VIDE:
1/2 Cup Brown Sugar
2 Tablespoons Butterscotch Schnapps (optional)

This is what I'm going to do:

1 Can Bewitched Red Ale
1 Can Mellow Amber UME
1lb Amber LME
1/2lb 60L Crystal Malts (in grain bag)
1/2 Cup Brown Sugar
2 Tablespoons Butterscotch Schnapps
1 Packet Dry Brewing Yeast (to kill)
Nottingham Ale Yeast (dry)

----
4-cups of water in a pot, place the crystal malt in the water and bring it to 150 degrees and leave it in there for 30min at that temp, remove the bag (letting it drip but not squeezing). Bringing it to a boil and tossing in the mr. beer yeast to kill it (makes for good yeast food, bunch of cannibals), then removing from heat and stirring in the brown sugar. Then I'll stir in all the extracts, pour it into the fermenter (that will have 4-quarts of water), and then top it off with water till the 8.5 mark, add the schnapps and stir stir stir, take a gravity reading, then pitch the yeast, wait 5, stir, then seal and ferment.
---

thoughts, comments, concerns? I've never done the crystal malt before so that was what I could gather to do.


uggghhhhh, I brewed this on saturday and this morning I have the smallest amount of krausian. Nothing went oddly or anything. I just dry pitched the nottingham but I can't figure out why the activity is so low. How long do I wait before I attempt a re-pitch?
 
I have the smallest amount of krausian. How long do I wait before I attempt a re-pitch?

Leave it alone. It's not a competition. It's fine. It is fermenting, you don't need foam like the Bobby Brady Laundry episode. You want krausen do a wheat, or add some grain to your next recipe. You'll have beer, maybe a week later than you thought.
Got a hydrometer? Got a spare fermenter? Start another batch.
 
Leave it alone. It's not a competition. It's fine. It is fermenting, you don't need foam like the Bobby Brady Laundry episode. You want krausen do a wheat, or add some grain to your next recipe. You'll have beer, maybe a week later than you thought.
Got a hydrometer? Got a spare fermenter? Start another batch.

Glad you told me that. This morning it had a full 1/4" of krausen on it and smells amazing. Sitting at a nice 71 degrees.
:ban:
 
I'm on page 94 of this thread and thanks again to all who contributed.

My dilemma is that I can only bottle on day 14 or day 21. From what I have read so far, 21 days is preferred (7 primary + 14 secondary), but I don't have a secondary fermentor. Temperature where the fermentor is located is ~71°F. On day 7, there were no bubbles on top and the liquid was clear. I'm doing the West Coast Pale Ale. I did not see a whole lot of activity during the first week, but I'm not worried about it.

Based on this information, what should achieve best results, 14 or 21 days? I'm leaning toward 21.
 
I think day 21 so that there has been plenty of time for the yeast to be cleaned up by the beer. Is there a place in your home taht is cooler than 70 F where you can place your fermentor?

Many people on the forum have commented that the best way to determine if the fermentation cycle is done if to take hydrometer readings. If you get the same gravity reading 2 days in a row and it is near the expected FG then you are ready to bottle. Some of the basic Mr Beer kits do not have FG numbers so I usually let mine go for 3 weeks just to be sure.
 
Thanks for the reply. The only place under 70°F where the fermentor will not be disturbed has actually been colder (low 60s) than usually (~68) this past two weeks due to the very cold weather we have had. Are you suggesting that I move it to slow down the process?
 
Thanks for the reply. The only place under 70°F where the fermentor will not be disturbed has actually been colder (low 60s) than usually (~68) this past two weeks due to the very cold weather we have had. Are you suggesting that I move it to slow down the process?

I recommend you keep it where it is ( less movement, 71 deg), the Mr. Beer yeast doesn't do well below 65 deg.

The extra week will be good for it. I ferment everything for 3-4 weeks now in primary with no secondary and I am very happy with the results.
 
hey got mr beer for Christmas, have started WCPA, i went to the the brewing store and got my next recipie for irish brown ale, its 4 pounds malt extract kit for 5 gallon batch, i was considering using it all in one 2 gallon batch, to make double brown ale, is this idea likely to taste good or bad?
 
I've got 3x High Country cans, 3x octoberfest, 2x whispering wheat, 1lb light DME, 2oz cascade and 1oz hallertau.

What can I make?
I can buy some more ingredients but I dont want to have to order their unhopped ME's, I'd rather buy good ingredients from my LHBS and do a delicious 2 gallon batch.
 
There are many recipes shown on the Mr Beer website. You would just need to substitute using some LME or DME from your LHBS for the cans of unhopped malt extract that Mr Beer sells. I think that using DME might be better so that you can easily store what remains in each bag compared to opening cans of LME. Perhaps, your LHBS may sell LME in plastic bottles so you just pour out what is needed.

You may also to use a different brand of brewing yeast than the packets that come with the Mr. Beer cans. I have used Cooper's yeast with Mr Beer recipes and it works very well. I rehydrate the yeast by placing it in 1/2 cup of water that is 95-100 F and has been boiled. Cover the top and let set for 15 minutes before pitching into your Mr Beer container. Your LHBS store might be able to find a better type of yeast to use for a particular recipe you find interesting.

Here is the link to the MR Beer recipe site:

http://www.mrbeer.com/category-exec/category_id/35

Welcome to your new obsession.:rockin:
 
I notice there's a lot of talk about sugar on here, and i was wondering if i should use normal table sugar in each bottle during the bottling process?

Or should i being using some other fancy sugar? like dextrose or something?
 
Can I use two cans of HME without being too overpowering? I don't want to have to buy MB items if I don't have to, since I do 99% 5 gallon batches.
 
Ringmaster do NOT use table sugar. I speak from experience young grasshopper.

Seriously, don't use table sugar get priming sugar from your LHBS you'll thank me later. A lot!
 
Ringmaster do NOT use table sugar. I speak from experience young grasshopper.

What is this experience you speak of? What happened?

Ryan
Add that pound of DME to any can of HME and it will improve your beer.
Wheat + DME + cascades = American Wheat
Vienna + DME + hallertau = Octoberfest-ish beer
Vienna + Wheat is decent (for MR Beer)
 
Awesome, thanks. What do you think if I did Vienna + Wheat + DME + hallertau? That's what I've been mulling over.
 
Awesome, thanks. What do you think if I did Vienna + Wheat + DME + hallertau? That's what I've been mulling over.

I think it will be fine, just wait longer than the 2-2-2 which seems to be the Mr. Beer mantra and pitch more than the one pack of supplied yeast - at least 2, 3 if you can spare it.

Worst case you'll have a pretty strong batch that you don't much care for, but you'll drink it anyway.
 

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