It doesn't need yeast. The fact that it has good carbonation shows you that there was enough yeast to turn the remaining fermentable sugar into CO2 (and a little alcohol). Residual sweetness in a beer is due to unfermentable sugars. It's possible that the blonde ale doesn't have as many hops to offset the sweetness. You may just prefer hoppier beers.
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It doesn't need yeast. The fact that it has good carbonation shows you that there was enough yeast to turn the remaining fermentable sugar into CO2 (and a little alcohol). Residual sweetness in a beer is due to unfermentable sugars. It's possible that the blonde ale doesn't have as many hops to offset the sweetness. You may just prefer hoppier beers.
skidoo2003
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Can you have a yeast that stalls out and may look like it's finished by FG readings, but still hasn't completed its process? Is this the reason to look at attenuation of the yeast to determine if the yeast did its job? Wondering if yeast that comes with mr beer kit yeast stalls out and can give the sweet taste and lower abv.
What is the best temp for the mr beer yeast?
Is it ok good/bad practice to ferment at a lower temp for 2 weeks, then bring up the temp a few degrees (3-5) for a week? Or shouldn't really matter?
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What is the best temp for the mr beer yeast?
Is it ok good/bad practice to ferment at a lower temp for 2 weeks, then bring up the temp a few degrees (3-5) for a week? Or shouldn't really matter?
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brewski09
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I wouldn't quite say it stalled out if it finished a little sweet. I would just call that under attenuated. That is possible if the east isn't healthy or there isn't enough nutrient or oxygenation was poor. Sometimes it just under attenuates. There is variability with the same east strain. If it's an all grain recipe it could be a mash temp or starch conversion thing too, but that's not an issue with me beer kits. The best temp to ferment the yeast in the me beer kits is to toss it in the trash and replace it with good yeast. If you do use it, I would to. It at about 64-66 for 3 days, then bring it up to 68 for maybe 2 days until the activity I high Krausen dissipates, then 70, maybe 71. For a day or two, then chill it down. This is a little advanced of a temp schedule and may be hard to do, but is a good target. Look up Coopers Gold Ale Yeast for info about this east strain as it should be what thy are supplying nowadays. The temps ogives are with a fish tank style LCD thermometer strip placed low on the mr beer keg itself. I hope that helps a little.
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If the beer reaches a stable FG close to what was expected, it hasn't stalled out even if the beer has some residual sweetness. This could be from the recipe, the way the extract was made (mash temp) and the variety of yeast used (some have a higher avg % attenuation than others).
The best ferment temp profile for a clean result using the MB yeast is similar to many other ale yeasts (like S-04, US-05, WLP001, Windsor, etc.). Using the beer temp (not air temp), pitch into 60-62*F wort, keep it in the 63-64*F range for the first 4-6 days until the krausen falls then step it up to around 68-70*F until finished.
Hey All, anyone here know why Mr. Beer took Patriot Lager off their product line? All the recipes using that hme are now posted as out of stock. I messaged Mr. Beer and their answer was,"Long Story,will have a replacement in 2-3 months". I asked this same question on other forums and wondered what the thoughts were here.
brewski09
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Mostly American 2-row, 10% Munich 10L, some 20-40L crystal/caramel malts (5% to start?). That should get you close and then you can tweak it from there. Hops are now open game instead of premade. I suggest looking up a clone for Sam Adams lager or yeungling lager if you want to make something more precise.
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The old (pre Cooper's buyout) Mr Beer yeast was a good yeast, but the problem with it was that the package was too small. The newer kits have larger yeast packets, so that's no longer the problem it once was. I don't know what yeast they use, but I would suspect it's the normal Cooper's ale yeast.
ericbw
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I had decent results from Coopers, but there was always a slightly sour taste. I assumed it was from the yeast, so I stopped using it. I now realize that it was probably from adding extract early, and who knows what other mistakes in the process. I should try it again, since it's so much cheaper.
johnflanagin
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Hi,
I was planning to double up my Mr. Beer recipe. Do I pitch both the yeasts?
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I was planning to double up my Mr. Beer recipe. Do I pitch both the yeasts?
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Yes.
brewski09
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I don't think adding the extract early will cause a sour taste. A more bitter taste with the Mr beer extract being hoped but not sour. I use unhoped extract for full boils with no sourness. I would attribute sour to acetyldehyde personally in most cases, which would actually be a yeast issue on some level.
jimmyjjohn
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I got started with Mr. Beer, but moved to all-grain brewing within 6 months.
Likewise, still using the kegs though
ericbw
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Interesting.
I was using DME and grains. Not hopped extract. Maybe sour is the wrong word. For sure there were some green flavors from not aging long enough. But also something nastier.
I had great but bland results from Mr Beer's nut brown.
Then I did an extract and grains Red that had that almost good taste. After a while I went back to that recipe with all grain and it's a hit.
So I attribute the improvements mostly to process.
brewski09
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I would suspect process, most likely not enough yeast or nutrient, but of course can't say for sure without trying it. I say that because that's what my issue was when i went back and tried some older beers i had saved. I add the yeast energizer from LD Carlson to everything now and am quite happy with the impact it's has on all my beers, meads, and fruit wines. Any nutrient will work though. Theoretically the grains or extract has enough of everything, but I do think it makes a difference. If you want access to some great recipes, I would pick up Jamil Zainasheff's book. All of the recipes in there have medaled in competitions and aren't that hard to follow from what I've seen. I also try to find clone recipes of my favorite beers. You learn a lot that way too.
shoreman
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I picked up a mr beer for small batches and just brewed a Belgian golden this weekend. A couple questions:
1. What's the longest you can leave it in primary without any o2 getting in?
2. How tight should the cap be on?
3. How long do you cold crash in fridge before bottling?
Thanks in advance I think this is a great small batch vessel.
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1. What's the longest you can leave it in primary without any o2 getting in?
2. How tight should the cap be on?
3. How long do you cold crash in fridge before bottling?
Thanks in advance I think this is a great small batch vessel.
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brewski09
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1) if you leave it in there for a few weeks you are fine. I don't think I would age anything in it purposefully, but I've made a full length 120 minute clone in the keg which takes like 2 months.
2) it screws on and let's air pass. Don't worry about it. Just screw it on until it's on and don't crank on it.
3) you could get away with 3 days, but if you like to do a week, then go with that. I actually use a second keg and do a secondary like full size kits would be designed for most times.
Hey guys, I'm new to the homebrew scene, want to make it my new hobby, I've done a kit batch, turned out pretty well, was a bitter, got a pilsner kit on the go now but did it with 1kilo of brewing sugar and 1 kilo of beer enhancer, looks Like it's a slow start to fermentation but it's bubbling away happily, (og) read at 1.056 so be relatively strong which I was going for just after some tips and advice, much appreciated.
Best advice for a new brewer. (Myself included cause I am on my... 5th? batch..) Leave it alone!! Don't mess with it until at least 2 weeks. Bottle it, and leave it alone for at least 2 weeks. Then leave it in the fridge for AT LEAST a week.
I like all over new brewers was too anxious for the first brew. I let it set 2 weeks after seeing all the experienced guys on here practically yelling to leave it 2 weeks. Then I bottled and left it 2 weeks. Except for 2 bottles which I only left one week. Put them in the fridge for 2 days then drank them. They were... OK at best... The rest were left to carb for 2 weeks. Put them in the fridge then I had 1 a day for the next couple weeks. The longer they sat in the fridge the better they were. It was VERY noticeable. After 2 batches I scaled up. I buy coopers or muntons kits and I use a Icing bucket I got from the Bakery. I will go All Grain when I have the space to do so. Still can't keep enough on hand at the moment. The Mrs. enjoys the brews almost as much as I do... So they go rather quickly.
I like all over new brewers was too anxious for the first brew. I let it set 2 weeks after seeing all the experienced guys on here practically yelling to leave it 2 weeks. Then I bottled and left it 2 weeks. Except for 2 bottles which I only left one week. Put them in the fridge for 2 days then drank them. They were... OK at best... The rest were left to carb for 2 weeks. Put them in the fridge then I had 1 a day for the next couple weeks. The longer they sat in the fridge the better they were. It was VERY noticeable. After 2 batches I scaled up. I buy coopers or muntons kits and I use a Icing bucket I got from the Bakery. I will go All Grain when I have the space to do so. Still can't keep enough on hand at the moment. The Mrs. enjoys the brews almost as much as I do... So they go rather quickly.
brewski09
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Look up brew in a bag (BIAB) for an intermediate all grain step that doesn't take more/a ton of space.
^^ This, with the Mr. Beer sized batches you can get a $12 16qt SS pot from Walmart + Paint Strainer bag for $5 per 2 pack and your able to do all-grain. My Paint Strainer bags are holding up really well, still on my first one, havn't opened the 2nd out of the pack yet. I wrap/belt with a blanket, my pot for 90 minutes and only lose 1-2 degrees temp. Still wanting to grab a 5g Igloo for simplicity.
ericbw
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If these are pre-hopped kits, then the best thing is just to be patient. Leave it in the fermenter longer than you think, then let it condition in the bottles warm for longer than you think. Then refrigerate longer than you think.
GPSaxophone
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I brewed the Mr Beer classic light (came with the kit) and it tasted OK. Next I bought the American Lager. While that was going, I went back and tried one of the light beers and wow was it better. Looks like just a couple of weeks more in the bottles made all the difference. Total time for the first batch was 4 weeks (2 in the fermenter and 2 in the bottles). The second tasting was after 4 weeks in the bottle.
With the lager, I didn't sample it until 5 weeks had passed (2 fermenting and 3 in the bottle) and it was good right away with no noticeable difference a couple of weeks later.
Yesterday my beginner's brew kit arrived, so I have a couple of buckets, a carboy, and various other parts. I'll be brewing my first 5 gallon batch this week.
Thanks to Mr. Beer for getting me started. I mean, dang it, why did you have to get me started?
With the lager, I didn't sample it until 5 weeks had passed (2 fermenting and 3 in the bottle) and it was good right away with no noticeable difference a couple of weeks later.
Yesterday my beginner's brew kit arrived, so I have a couple of buckets, a carboy, and various other parts. I'll be brewing my first 5 gallon batch this week.
Thanks to Mr. Beer for getting me started. I mean, dang it, why did you have to get me started?
brewski09
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There is a for sale section on the homebrewtalk site if that's what you are talking about.
shaggyman07
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"First fermentation at 72-74 F. Hold for 4 days. Whirlpool, drain trub at day 4, 5, and 6. On day 4 start secondary fermentation. Light body will floculate fast with terminal gravity approaching near 1.0. Cold condition 2 weeks at 33-36F."
What does that mean? I am new and all I know is to put it in the carboy and check the gravity until I get what I want. I don't know what drain tub whirlpool means. I get that it needs to finish cold after the gravity is reached; is this saying the fermentation time is 4 to 7 days?
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What does that mean? I am new and all I know is to put it in the carboy and check the gravity until I get what I want. I don't know what drain tub whirlpool means. I get that it needs to finish cold after the gravity is reached; is this saying the fermentation time is 4 to 7 days?
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brewski09
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Okay. So this is a little bit of a cluster to me too. As I read it there are multiple steps here. 1) ferment at 72-74 for 4 days. That's a little warm to me unless you are using a Belgian or farmhouse/saison yeast (maybe a wine yeast too). 2) whirlpool (exactly what it sounds like. Gently make a whirlpool) the beer and drain the trub (that malt, hop, and yeast sediment on the bottom of your fermenter) over the next three days. I would not do it this way. Rack (siphon) your beer into another fermenter like you are getting ready to bottle and let it sit there without doing anything to it for a few days. The way described in the post will add oxygen which can and likely will add off flavors if done in this manner. 3) the OP seems to be misusing terminology here. "Light body flocculation" won't change your finished gravity more than a couple points if at all. That is still fermentation activity. A finished gravity of 1.000 is where a Mead our wine should finish, not a beer. On that note, what is this a recipe for? 4) chill it down for a couple of weeks to let it clear all the way. This is actually a common practice but not required. I like to use it if I can though. Makes for a clearer finished product with less sediment on the bottom of the bottle.
Hope that helps. I strongly suggest picking up a copy of the complete joy of homebrewing as it will give you a strong foundation of knowledge to interpret posts like the original with.
shaggyman07
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It is the Castle News Ale from beersmith. It has stopped off-gassing and I am going to take a gravity reading. I pitch it in Easter. I am thinking about racking it to a second carboy if the gravity does not change in 3 days, for a second fermentation. I have herd this will help the flavor and clarity. This is my first 5 gallon brew. Was using extract in a MrBeer and decided to go all grain in glass. I bought 4 carboys and a crap ton of supplies so I guess I have jumped, sink or swim.
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shaggyman07
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Beersmith. So I went to check the gravity and dropped a part into the carboy. Thankfully it had stopped off gassing so I racked it into another carboy for secondary fermentation. The gravity reading was 1.05.
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brewski09
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Okay. Found it (finally). I would be careful of that fermentation temp with the wlp005 unless you like your beer to taste like active bread yeast smells. I recommend a fermentation temp of 68. I also don't know why the guy says the gravity should approach 1.0. This beer would more than likely finish near 1.010 on the low side, even with a really good fermentation. Cross out the whirlpool and drain trub part. I bet the person that wrote this has a conical fermenter. Even so, I'm not sure a whirlpool is warranted. Looks somewhat close to Newcastle, but I think the recipe that BYO published a few years back with the 2 beers blended is awesome and fun to make (that's code for a pain in the rear). Turned out great, just not worth my time to make again.
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