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Dextrose (corn sugar) makes for smaller, more effervescent bubbles. Sucrose (Table Sugar) carbonates just fine and I use it, but if the bottle isn't done carbonating and cleaning up can make the beer taste real green. I noticed this a couple times and now always leave my beer in the bottles for 3-4 weeks. The first time I used corn sugar it wasn't properly carbed at 2 weeks but didn't taste as green.

Short and sweet: If your patient it doesn't make a difference except the size of the bubbles. Just remember Dextrose uses a different amount than sucrose. Use a priming calc like found on northernbrewer.com to find out how much to use, don't use the Mr. Beer directions, I ended up way over-carbed using those. for a normal Mr. Beer batch you should be using 1/4c or less depending on fermenting temps.
 
I will be useing the bottling method as in the mr beer instructions which calls for 2 1/2 tsp per bottle

You still using 1l bottles?

Just on an off shoot do you have something to mix the beer in prior to bottling ie: bottling bucket? WalMart has a 2.5g water jug slimline for about $2.50

Mix 1/4c sugar with 1c water and bring to a boil. Stir to keep from burning, once it reaches a boil let it boil for about 5minutes. Remove from heat and let cool. Pour into bottling bucket, use small hose to pour beer from Mr. Beer keg to bottling bucket to mix. This allows for more even carbonation and less trub from the keg. Bottle from your bottling bucket to bottles, keeping splashing at a minimum.

If you want more info read here

Just easier to get into the habit off the bat instead of adding new processes down the line.
 
It has helped, I did it with the Classic american Light and the Patriot Lager. Both fermented closer to 62
 
You still using 1l bottles?

Just on an off shoot do you have something to mix the beer in prior to bottling ie: bottling bucket? WalMart has a 2.5g water jug slimline for about $2.50

Mix 1/4c sugar with 1c water and bring to a boil. Stir to keep from burning, once it reaches a boil let it boil for about 5minutes. Remove from heat and let cool. Pour into bottling bucket, use small hose to pour beer from Mr. Beer keg to bottling bucket to mix. This allows for more even carbonation and less trub from the keg. Bottle from your bottling bucket to bottles, keeping splashing at a minimum.

If you want more info read here

Just easier to get into the habit off the bat instead of adding new processes down the line.
Really good info, Skitter. Great idea about the bottling bucket from Walmart.

When we siphon to the bottling bucket, should we stir the priming sugar with the siphoned beer after it's in there? Or is just the transfer from fermenter to bottling bucket enough to mix and stirring would cause unwanted oxidation?

I'm just beginning so excuse any misused terms :mug:
 
Just add it to the bucket, coil the hose so it whirlpools in your bottling bucket. That will mix it enough
 
Can you provide a link to this slimline Walmart water jug? I'm not really sure what you are talking about

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The manual that comes with the beer kits strongly suggests that you use either bottled spring water or install a water filter on your kitchen faucet.

I installed a water filter on mine. It's cheap, inexpensive and it will save you money in the long run, over constantly buying bottled water! You'd only have to replace the filter, and a light on the unit will tell you when the filter needs to be replaced.

Here's what mine looks like. :mug:

Pur Water Filter.jpg
 
Many of my bottles are Sam Adams. Just make sure they're clean and you're good to go.

Sent from my SPH-L520 using Home Brew mobile app
 
Sam adams bottles work really good. I had some unlabled weird one I got for free that broke pretty readily, and the Firestone bottles I have are hit and miss. New Belgium brewings bottles have all broken on me within 1 or 2 recaps
 
You will need metal beer caps and a capper.

I may get into using the 12-oz beer bottles somewhere down the road, but for now, I like using the 1-liter plastic bottles and caps.
 
Drink some Grolsch if you want some reusable bottles. Their swing tops were among my first bottles before I had a capper.

Sent from my SPH-L520 using Home Brew mobile app
 
My LHBS has cases of glass bottles from 12oz to 22oz to 1l glass bottles all pre-used. And free for whomever wants to clean them. Bottle caps cost me $2.50 per 200. Which is close to 10 batches for me.

Overall not too expensive. Lots of bars will let you take their glass if you take all of it and dispose of it for them, not just what you want

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Hello Everyone, just a quick update.

My ACL kit has been fermenting for 18 days now. As I mentioned when I posted about my brew session (if you can call it that with Mr. Beer) my yeast packet had popped open before i got the lid off. I thought the yeast might be dead but thankfully I was wrong...

I am however still concerned, there is still a portion of foam hanging out on the top middle of the LBK. Shouldn't this have died down by now? Or could it be that some of the yeast was dead and its taking longer to completely ferment.

Another note, I poured a small amount from the LBK and it was much darker than I expected. It looked to be closer to the color of a standard bud then say a bud light or coors light (Sadly it is an american classic light kit). But it tasted like sweet flat beer. So I am thinking of leaving it in the LBK until Friday night and then bottling.

Does any or all of this sound on point? Thanks in advance.
 
Sounds good, the foam is from Co2, and yes when you add lme it seems more like standard than light. It increases the body
 
The age of the extract can also change the color. If it's not absolutely fresh, it darkens.

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what r your thoughts on recapping empty sam adams bottles

I have lots of them :D

I haven't had issues with any bottles. Sam Adams, dogfish, sierra Nevada, Firestone walker, bells, founders, and others. I have tossed some from visual inspection because the bottle run left big bubbles or other glass flaws (like a really light spot indicating thin glass). I'm also very careful with my glass. If someone tosses it into the recycle box, I generally just toss it because of the likelihood of a crack in the glass. Just keep in mind that the Mr beer priming calculations are for plastic and will yield beastly over carbonated beer, possibly even bottle bombs.

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Beastly is supposed to read vastly, but I kinda like beastly...

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Yup, I found this out with thankfully no bombs, but always wondering why my beer tasted over-carbed and bitter. Mr. Beer had me using 6TBSP (that's almost 1/2c) per 2.5g batch. Northernbrewers priming calc showed I should be using 1/4c or less for 2.4vol carbonation
 
Yup, I found this out with thankfully no bombs, but always wondering why my beer tasted over-carbed and bitter. Mr. Beer had me using 6TBSP (that's almost 1/2c) per 2.5g batch. Northernbrewers priming calc showed I should be using 1/4c or less for 2.4vol carbonation

Did you double check the measurements on your LBK? Mine are WAY off. I shoot for 2.2 vols usually.

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I don't use the measurements on the side of the keg. I know I have 2.5g of wort in my pot whenever it goes into the fermenter. That actually goes to just above the 8.5qt line on the side of the LBK... Yes, way off :)
 
I don't use the measurements on the side of the keg. I know I have 2.5g of wort in my pot whenever it goes into the fermenter. That actually goes to just above the 8.5qt line on the side of the LBK... Yes, way off :)

First thing I did in my LBK is fill it up with water measurements by the half gallon and mark them off with sharpie.
 
I just got some flip-top bottles off of CL for cheap and the guy threw in three Mr. Beer HME kits. I use a William's Brewing setup with five gallon buckets. I plan on brewing all three separate, i.e., not mix kits to increase volume. Besides just following the Mr. Beer procedure, do I need to do anything different than I do with a 5 gallon LME kit?
 
I did exactly two batches in my Mr. Beer kit and ruined them both. Did the Devil IPA and Howlin Red Ale kits. How did I ruin them you ask? by reading too much material..haha. Instructions to "agitate" the wort before adding the yeast weren't exactly heeded since I simply stirred for about a minute to get some bubbles. All my reading had suggested oxygen was bad for beer and being completely new to brewing I didn't completely understand that agitating meant much more. Alas, BOTH kits turned out exactly the same with the cidery/green apple taste. Regardless, I enjoyed the experience but my quest for bigger batches put me onto the 5 gallon starter kit from Northern Brewer. I'm still keeping my Mr. Beer kit handy for when I get a little better and can apply the principles to another batch to see if I've learned anything. That, or I'm going to give it to my brother to get him hooked. Cheers.
 
I did exactly two batches in my Mr. Beer kit and ruined them both. Did the Devil IPA and Howlin Red Ale kits. How did I ruin them you ask? by reading too much material..haha. Instructions to "agitate" the wort before adding the yeast weren't exactly heeded since I simply stirred for about a minute to get some bubbles. All my reading had suggested oxygen was bad for beer and being completely new to brewing I didn't completely understand that agitating meant much more. Alas, BOTH kits turned out exactly the same with the cidery/green apple taste. Regardless, I enjoyed the experience but my quest for bigger batches put me onto the 5 gallon starter kit from Northern Brewer. I'm still keeping my Mr. Beer kit handy for when I get a little better and can apply the principles to another batch to see if I've learned anything. That, or I'm going to give it to my brother to get him hooked. Cheers.

That taste usually comes from not letting it ferment long enough or not letting it condition long enough.
 
That taste usually comes from not letting it ferment long enough or not letting it condition long enough.

That's what I thought too but both of them were fermented for about 5 days longer than recommended and there are still a few bottles of each in the fridge...since November 12 2013 and they are still cidery. The research I've done suggests that I didn't aerate enough which I clearly didn't. But your suggestion though is exactly what the Mr Beer customer service folks said as well. My first 5 gallon batch went into bottles in a week and I haven't experienced any of the cider/apple smell or taste. Regardless, it's a fun trip. Cheers.
 
Read my write up, it should help. You bottles in the fridge won't help get rid of the green taste for the most part. I leave mine in the fermenter for 2 weeks, and in the bottles for 3 before I even think about putting them in the fridge.
 
Read my write up, it should help. You bottles in the fridge won't help get rid of the green taste for the most part. I leave mine in the fermenter for 2 weeks, and in the bottles for 3 before I even think about putting them in the fridge.


That's what I'm trying on my very first batch. Cracking them open on Super Bowl Sunday
 
Well I went ahead and brewed my first batch of brew with Mr. Beer. For my first batch I did it by the book and went with the Czech Pilsner that came with my setup. I didn't alter or add anything, I just wanted to see the process and get an idea of how things work. I enjoyed actually MAKING the brew so much, I went ahead and ordered two more LBK's so that I can brew a batch every weekend. Gives me something to do, and drink a few weeks later!

I've gotten to the point were I bottled my Czech Pilsner, and have ventured out a little bit, and made some of their Ole Mole Stout. It is currently going into week two of fermentation, but things are looking good. My problem is keeping temps regular. I figured I could put it in a cooler in my room to protect it from drafts or such. My problem is keeping it warm enough. Keeping it cool isn't a problem, but I keep my house at 70, at least the thermostat at 70, but I know most rooms in the house are cooler than that, probably 65ish, so hopefully that won't affect the brew too much, when I can pop open one of these bottles and taste my brew, I'll know I guess!

One question I do have, if I find a kit I like thats meant for 5g, if i were to cut the ratio for the LBK, would that work? I have seen a lot of great brews made for 5g batches that I would like to make with my existing Mr. Beer equipment, so hopefully I can.

Anyways, thanks again!
 
I use 5g All Grain recipes and cut them in half for the lbk.

65 is perfect, 70 is too hot
 
Yeah once I moved it into a different room, I am getting more consistent temperatures, and I can actually smell the beer when I open my rubbermaid container. I'm more excited now than ever. I brewed my Czech in the other room so I am curious to see how it turned out next week. Like everyone said, if it's not right, I will let it condition in the new room a while longer.

Today or tomorrow, I'll start on my Peanut Butter Stout! Maybe tonight while the Pro Bowl is on.



I use 5g All Grain recipes and cut them in half for the lbk.

65 is perfect, 70 is too hot
 
I use a swamp cooler if I have issues with the heat and I prefer to keep my beers at 62 keg temp, not ambient. Works pretty well :)
 
I am looking at buying a kit from northern brewer
Northern Brewer's White House Honey Porter 1 Gallon Recipe Kit
all i have is the mr beer fermenter do you thing it wise to ferment it in here or should i look at other avenues.
I wanna do a better brew than the mr beer ones but without spending a fortune on equipment as i still dont know if i will have the ambition to continue doing this after
 
You can pick up a 1g jug with airlock for $6 but if you want to do it in the Mr Beer keg its a little too mich headspace, can you do 2 kits? I do all grain, brew in a bag brews with a $12 16qt ss pot from wally and a 5g paint strainer.
 
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