Moving up to the next level

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browning

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I have made to brews now with dry malt extract. And they was Awesome ( nut brown ale, and a ipa) great beer. But want to move up I'm brewing level. What's the next step?
 
I'd consider extract with steeping grains or partial mash before going whole hog into all grain.

What equipment do you have so far, and what exactly are you looking to accomplish with any next step you might take?
 
Depends on how big of steps you want to take.

You could try an extract recipe with specialty grains, as opposed to an extract kit. This would give you some experience in measuring a bit more before you dive into all grain. A baby step, but still a step.

Also, I thnk that a lot of people would agree that a partial mash would be the next real step after extract brewing. Sure, you can jump right into all grain, but a couple of partial mash recipes would allow you to develop some needed skills while still have some DME to fall back on in case you don't get all of your conversions right... also, you don't need all of the extra gear to do a partial mash.
 
stratslinger said:
I'd consider extract with steeping grains or partial mash before going whole hog into all grain.

What equipment do you have so far, and what exactly are you looking to accomplish with any next step you might take?

I was thanking partial mash. I have a 6.5 fermenter, bottling bucket etc. One primary fermenter. Do I need a second fermenter. And im looking to gain more knowledge and better beer.
 
you always need a second fermenter. most good beers ( i did say most - exceptions include wheats, milds, etc ) take a while to ferment and age, and it's good to have multiple fermenters to keep a pipeline going. many of us have 5, 6, or even 10 fermenters. i personally have 6. partial mash is a good next baby step to get the feel for grain
 
homebrewdad said:
Depends on how big of steps you want to take.

You could try an extract recipe with specialty grains, as opposed to an extract kit. This would give you some experience in measuring a bit more before you dive into all grain. A baby step, but still a step.

Also, I thnk that a lot of people would agree that a partial mash would be the next real step after extract brewing. Sure, you can jump right into all grain, but a couple of partial mash recipes would allow you to develop some needed skills while still have some DME to fall back on in case you don't get all of your conversions right... also, you don't need all of the extra gear to do a partial mash.

I did steep grains. Up to 165 temp for 15 min then added my dry malt extract that had my bittering hops in it at the start of my boil. Then 45 mins in I added flavoring hops and Spanish moss. Then 5 mins added aroma hops (in my ipa) great beer. I was thanking partial mash with a second fermenter would help for even better beer.
 
lumpher said:
you always need a second fermenter. most good beers ( i did say most - exceptions include wheats, milds, etc ) take a while to ferment and age, and it's good to have multiple fermenters to keep a pipeline going. many of us have 5, 6, or even 10 fermenters. i personally have 6. partial mash is a good next baby step to get the feel for grain

Thanks that was info I needed to know.
 
I would lean towards partial mash or extract with steeping grains...Heck you could knock out a extract with specialty steeping grains no problem...
Try a different yeast, or better yet, do the same batch and try different yeasts...
Buy some oak cubes and oak a beer, try dry hopping, use an adjunct like ginger or other spice....Harvest some yeast....So many thing to try so little time....
 
I did steep grains. Up to 165 temp for 15 min then added my dry malt extract that had my bittering hops in it at the start of my boil. Then 45 mins in I added flavoring hops and Spanish moss. Then 5 mins added aroma hops (in my ipa) great beer. I was thanking partial mash with a second fermenter would help for even better beer.

Thats kinda the path I am on. I am going to be doing BIAB come spring. No need for fermenter #2 unless you are adding something.
 
It seems unanimous that "the next step" is toward all-grain. I'm not at all convinced that altering the process by which you create wort is the next step. It depends. Are you satisfied with your yeast culturing and pitching rates? Do you have good fermentation temp control? If not, you're likely to see greater immediate improvement by making one of these the next step.
 
Steeping is a good next step without getting more equipment, but if you do an all grain BIAB (boil in a bag ....lots of onfo on it in the search engine) with a small simple grain bill for a pale ale or similar, you can do it with what you have. :mug:
 
Is it possible to move towards all grain in steps?

eg: An dry extract recipe might have 6 or 7lb of DME for 5gl... Could you BIAB steep 3lb of Mavis Otter and add 3/4lb of DME?

I think it's relevant to the OP, but I'm also interested as I won't be able to use a 5gl boil anytime soon (if ever) due to space limitations where I live.

I'll either go that way or all grain 1 gallon batches.
 
Pilgarlic said:
It seems unanimous that "the next step" is toward all-grain. I'm not at all convinced that altering the process by which you create wort is the next step. It depends. Are you satisfied with your yeast culturing and pitching rates? Do you have good fermentation temp control? If not, you're likely to see greater immediate improvement by making one of these the next step.

This...

I believe you should be making starters, have fermentation temp under control, and a wort chiller before investing in all grain. Assuming your goal is better beer. If you are more interested in the process of all grain or partial mash then make the investment, but you'll get larger improvements in quality by doing those other three things first.

I went all grain too early and my beer got way better when I did the other things.
 
It seems unanimous that "the next step" is toward all-grain. I'm not at all convinced that altering the process by which you create wort is the next step. It depends. Are you satisfied with your yeast culturing and pitching rates? Do you have good fermentation temp control? If not, you're likely to see greater immediate improvement by making one of these the next step.

+1. Controlling fermentation temperature and yeast pitching rates will make a lot more difference to the finished beer than going all grain.
 
Some very good points raised so far.

Now, if your goal is really just to make better beer and to learn more, Pilgarlic hit it right on the nose: producing wort in a different manner will not necessarily lead to better beer. There are a lot of other things you can work on in the meantime:

- Do you control your fermentation temperatures? This will arguably do more for your beer than anything else. Having the capacity to control fermentation temperatures will allow you to make lagers. It'll allow you to make very clean ales. It'll also allow you to experiment with certain yeast strands - some of them provide really cool types of "funk" to your beers when fermented a little warm. Lots to learn here (what different yeasts do at various temperatures) and a very large potential to improve your beers.

- How are your yeast pitching rates? Are you familiar with MrMalty.com? Ever made a starter? Making sure you're pitching the proper amount of yeast (or understanding when it may be GOOD to underpitch) will definitely improve the quality of your beers.

- Are you using partial boils, or full? Full boils, while they require a little additional equipment (a larger pot, likely a heat source other than your stovetop, and a wort chiller can be a good addition at this point) can improve charateristics of your beer. I think you can get better color from larger boils (smaller boils generally tend to result in darker beer that full boils) and hop utilization tends to improve. While there's definitely ways to mitigate both of these with smaller boils, investing in that equipment now can reduce your investment down the road should you decide to go all grain.
 

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