Monstermill 3 geared

[mggray87]

Ok milling is something I didn't think about as I order my Spike/SSBT equipment. But I ran across this. wouldn't hurt to have stashed so I know when I know I'm Milling is the correct size.

My question is this. I really do not want to buy a new drill lol. Why couldn't I use my new Cordless Dewalt 20v XR drill? never used a mill so This will be a learning thread for me...

or a little cheaper MM2 not geared stainless... i mean i only doing 5-6g batches...... not a trying to be a big batch brewer.. just for personal consumption..

appreciate input.

i found Crankandstein 2DG homebrewing mill as another option if 3rollers is overkill for my tiny batches

​

 

[Airborneguy]

Wow perfect timing. I’m in the market for a new mill. I’m very interested to see the answers you get.

 

[quantumguy]

In regards to a drill, you need one with that has good low-end torque since milling is best done at low rpm. I use a cheap ($64) spade-handle drill//mixer from Harbor Freight purchased just for this purpose. I also went from an old 2-roller mill to the geared MM3 and really like it (I only make 5-6 gal batches). With the gearing there is no problem with the grain not getting pulled down through the rollers. It's also built like a tank. Last mill I will ever own.

 

[mggray87]

In regards to a drill, you need one with that has good low-end torque since milling is best done at low rpm. I use a cheap ($64) spade-handle drill//mixer from Harbor Freight purchased just for this purpose. I also went from an old 2-roller mill to the geared MM3 and really like it (I only make 5-6 gal batches). With the gearing there is no problem with the grain not getting pulled down through the rollers. It's also built like a tank. Last mill I will ever use.

looking at that drill. does it have a speed setting or just the touch of the finger to slow it down? 0-600RPM it states.. my dewalt on lowest setting is 400RPM

 

[quantumguy]

one slows it down just with your finger pull. Getting it started with a hopper full of grain was the challenging part with my old drill - I would have to go full speed at first and then try to slow it down without completely stopping the rollers since it didn't have much low-end torque. High speed = shredded grains, not cracked, which isn't so great. This new drill will get things rolling at low speeds.

 

[Wigglebutts Brewery]

At HB you could also get the WARRIORRouter Variable Speed Control Dial to reduce the speed. I use this device on my exhaust fan and on an old 1/2“ corded beast drill for my MM2 grain mill setup.

 

[quantumguy]

At HB you could also get the WARRIORRouter Variable Speed Control Dial to reduce the speed. I use this device on my exhaust fan and on an old 1/2“ corded beast drill for my MM2 grain mill setup.

cool idea. I'll look into that as an alternative to trying to keep the same pressure on my drill trigger....

 

[Malticulous]

After years of Barley Crusher problems, I bought a 2DG. I use a cordless drill in low gear at about half throttle (Kobalt XTR.)

 

[mggray87]

After years of Barley Crusher problems, I bought a 2DG. I use a cordless drill in low gear at about half throttle (Kobalt XTR.)

ill test my cordless with MM3 geared home version if not ill buy HF one. ill guy some cheap grain to clean the rollers and test it? whats the cheapest grain to just sample and clean the roller? so when I order the mm3G ill have it on hand

 

[quantumguy]

just buy an extra pound of the 2-row you're going to order for your next batch and that would be plenty. I think I only crushed about 1/2 a pound to clean mine when I first got it.

 

[redrocker652002]

I am fairly new to the grain mill idea. Wife bought me one for Christmas last year I think. I like it. It is a double roller, so not the Cadilac, but a good Honda. LOL. I use my Ryobi cordless and just try and keep it low. I typically crush somewhere between 12 and 14 pounds I think. I have actually thought about using the hand crank just for the heck of it, might Saturday if the hangover isn't so bad from golf today. LOL. I have found my efficiency has gone up by being able to crush my own and get a bit it a bit finer. I am still tinkering with it, and right now the rollers are about as tight as they will go. I have to put a feeler gauge to it and see what it is, but I have been lazy. LOL.

 

[mggray87]

I am fairly new to the grain mill idea. Wife bought me one for Christmas last year I think. I like it. It is a double roller, so not the Cadilac, but a good Honda. LOL. I use my Ryobi cordless and just try and keep it low. I typically crush somewhere between 12 and 14 pounds I think. I have actually thought about using the hand crank just for the heck of it, might Saturday if the hangover isn't so bad from golf today. LOL. I have found my efficiency has gone up by being able to crush my own and get a bit it a bit finer. I am still tinkering with it, and right now the rollers are about as tight as they will go. I have to put a feeler gauge to it and see what it is, but I have been lazy. LOL.

I'm actually waiting to hear from MM today. If I hear back I may just order one today. Wondering if they ever have sales.or coupons. Shipping is twice as much as crankandstein

 

[mggray87]

should i get the stainless hopper for $30. is it much needed or worth it???

 

[quantumguy]

should i get the stainless hopper for $30. is it much needed or worth it???

I don't see why you would need stainless for the hopper

 

[mggray87]

I don't see why you would need stainless for the hopper

k thanks, your saving me $ ahah

 

[quantumguy]

k thanks, your saving me $ ahah

if you're like me that just means you can spend it on something else for your brewery

 

[mggray87]

if you're like me that just means you can spend it on something else for your brewery

i gotta buy the brewbuilt icemaster 2 chiller. thats the final big purchase to my setup

 

[seatazzz]

I have the Mighty Mill three-roller geared from morebeer, have been very happy with it. I run it with my dewalt XR cordless set on the lower torque setting. I don't start with a full hopper, I start the drill with one hand and pour the grain with the other.

 

[mggray87]

In regards to a drill, you need one with that has good low-end torque since milling is best done at low rpm. I use a cheap ($64) spade-handle drill//mixer from Harbor Freight purchased just for this purpose. I also went from an old 2-roller mill to the geared MM3 and really like it (I only make 5-6 gal batches). With the gearing there is no problem with the grain not getting pulled down through the rollers. It's also built like a tank. Last mill I will ever own.

At HB you could also get the WARRIORRouter Variable Speed Control Dial to reduce the speed. I use this device on my exhaust fan and on an old 1/2“ corded beast drill for my MM2 grain mill setup.

This is exactly what I bought today. Both these items. I Velcro'd the drills trigger down. I plugged it into the warrior variable speed control and have it on its lowest setting. Now with the drill sitting on the mill when I flip the switch on the warrior it starts up and I'm able to run it lowest setting possible hands free. And I can pour the malt in

 

[Konadog]

I have the Mighty Mill three-roller geared from morebeer, have been very happy with it. I run it with my dewalt XR cordless set on the lower torque setting. I don't start with a full hopper, I start the drill with one hand and pour the grain with the other.

I have the same Mill and use the same old Dewalt cordless (XRP 18v). I fill the hopper and then run the drill. Never had an issue of it not starting.
I do love the mill, just wish it had a bigger hopper.

 

[quantumguy]

This is exactly what I bought today. Both these items. I Velcro'd the drills trigger down. I plugged it into the warrior variable speed control and have it on its lowest setting. Now with the drill sitting on the mill when I flip the switch on the warrior it starts up and I'm able to run it lowest setting possible hands free. And I can pour the malt in

Last week I picked up the Warrior router variable control unit from HF and tried it on my low-speed mixer drill (from HF as noted above). I didn't have a load on the drill, but at the lowest setting of the Warrior with the drill's button fully depressed, it seemed it only cut the speed down by 25% or so compared to full speed. Does this cut way down once it gets grinding grain or is this a function of the drill already being a variable speed drill?

 

[mggray87]

Last week I picked up the Warrior router variable control unit from HF and tried it on my low-speed mixer drill (from HF as noted above). I didn't have a load on the drill, but at the lowest setting of the Warrior with the drill's button fully depressed, it seemed it only cut the speed down by 25% or so compared to full speed. Does this cut way down once it gets grinding grain or is this a function of the drill already being a variable speed drill?

I haven't used it on a load yet. But instead of guessing the rpm. I almost bought the HF tachometer to actually test it. But I figure this on lowest setting should be low enough. Maybe now I'll buy the tachometer in stock to test it to see the rpm

 

[quantumguy]

I'm brewing this weekend, so I'll be trying it out. Maybe I just can't velcro the drill's button all the way on. We'll see.

 

[quantumguy]

Yep, used it yesterday - trigger velcro'd all the way in and the controller turned all the way down. Seemed a little fast, but when I started to add grain and put the drill under a load it slowed down a bit. The grind turned out really nice, so looks like a winning combination. Great to be able to add my grain to a running mill and not have to keep my finger on the trigger as well.

 

[mggray87]

Yep, used it yesterday - trigger velcro'd all the way in and the controller turned all the way down. Seemed a little fast, but when I started to add grain and put the drill under a load it slowed down a bit. The grind turned out really nice, so looks like a winning combination. Great to be able to add my grain to a running mill and not have to keep my finger on the trigger as well.

Question I just tested a lb of caraaroma I had first time using it the HF drill and the variable speed on lowest setting. I jammed the hopper. I had to reverse a few times it couldn't pull it through. What was your gap setting? Mine was 025 on feeler gauge. I since changed it to 028 but I don't have another lb to waste trying it. The torque needed for that was ridiculous. Almost ripped my hand off. The. Once it was stuck the drill would never get going again

 

[quantumguy]

At least for my system, 0.025 or 0.028 is pretty tight. I have mine set to about 0.036-0.038. On my old 2-roller mill, I used a credit card gap, which is about 0.030. That was a lot smaller than the recommended gap for the MM3, so backed way off. My crush was great and my efficiency was just above 80% which is just right for my system (keggle with false bottom, fly sparge)

Make sure everything is aligned properly too and you have the same gap on both sides.

 

[mggray87]

At least for my system, 0.025 or 0.028 is pretty tight. I have mine set to about 0.036-0.038. On my old 2-roller mill, I used a credit card gap, which is about 0.030. That was a lot smaller than the recommended gap for the MM3, so backed way off. My crush was great and my efficiency was just above 80% which is just right for my system (keggle with false bottom, fly sparge)

Make sure everything is aligned properly too and you have the same gap on both sides.

I just tested 2 row on 028. Did a single pass. I saw a few pieces that didn't crush at all. Did a double pass and this is what it's looking like

Single pass

Double pass:

 

[mggray87]

At least for my system, 0.025 or 0.028 is pretty tight. I have mine set to about 0.036-0.038. On my old 2-roller mill, I used a credit card gap, which is about 0.030. That was a lot smaller than the recommended gap for the MM3, so backed way off. My crush was great and my efficiency was just above 80% which is just right for my system (keggle with false bottom, fly sparge)

Make sure everything is aligned properly too and you have the same gap on both sides.

I'm using feeler gauge so it's aligned atleast pretty darn close!

 

[quantumguy]

Just noticed your pics. The crush looks really good but I'm surprised that's with 0.028. The results from the 2nd pass seem a bit much to my eye though.

 

[mggray87]

Just noticed your pics. The crush looks really good but I'm surprised that's with 0.028. The results from the 2nd pass seem a bit much to my eye though.

It does. I did notice after I was done unjamming it. The bottom. Was jammed I fixed it and .028 was doable but not on the lowest setting I had to put it at the top of the black L area this time. It bogged but didn't stop this time

 

[mggray87]

Just noticed your pics. The crush looks really good but I'm surprised that's with 0.028. The results from the 2nd pass seem a bit much to my eye though.

So u think it's to big still?

 

[mashdar]

I think they meant the 1 pass looked OK and second pass looks pretty pulverized. For BIAB it would be OK, but husks are pretty shredded. (edit: probably workable on other systems if you baby it.)

The first pic I don't see any uncracked kernels. Sometimes they look mostly in tact but are really just held together with some husk.

It does look coarse for 0.028, but TBH that's why looking at the result yields more information than gap measurements.

Edit: I also get the impression that there are varying opinions re ideal crush. If you find a relatively fine crush works for you, then no reason to worry about it.

 

[quantumguy]

yep, I agree with mashdar on this.

 

[JohnDBrewer]

The gap on a 3-roller does not come out the same as a 2-roller, in my experience. I had both types for a while and used to compare them. The 3-roller had to be set wider to compare to the same setting on the 2-roller.
I set my 3-roller at .05 - .055, but I have a RIMS. My efficiency runs in the high 70's, low 80's consistently, except when I do a decoction, then it's the high 80's.

 

[PCABrewing]

Just noticed your pics. The crush looks really good but I'm surprised that's with 0.028.

The measurement may be slightly off based on gauge R&R score. I doubt it is worthy of doing a full study, but it is worth considering that effect.

 

[mggray87]

yep, I agree with mashdar on this.

I'm just gonna go with it. And do 2 passes on my first batch this weekend. I put the 028 feeler gauge in I didn't make it super tight on it. I just made sure it fit perfect. I could have tightened it so it was super tight. But pulling the feeler gauge out moves the setting a little bit.

 

[PCABrewing]

I'm just gonna go with it. And do 2 passes on my first batch this weekend. I put the 028 feeler gauge in I didn't make it super tight on it. I just made sure it fit perfect. I could have tightened it so it was super tight. But pulling the feeler gauge out moves the setting a little bit.

Assuming you are measuring at each end and checking the clearance after everything is tightened back up.
Have you also checked after rotating the rollers 90 degrees etc to confirm concentric rollers? Also are the rollers loose in the bushings?
These mills aren't precision devices so I wouldn't expect perfection, but it might help to know if the gap is wider at any point of rotation.
Just a thought

 

[mggray87]

Assuming you are measuring at each end and checking the clearance after everything is tightened back up.
Have you also checked after rotating the rollers 90 degrees etc to confirm concentric rollers? Also are the rollers loose in the bushings?
These mills aren't precision devices so I wouldn't expect perfection, but it might help to know if the gap is wider at any point of rotation.
Just a thought

I'm removing the hopper now gonna slide the 028 back in and turn and tighten down on the feeler as tight as I can and try to slide it out without loosening it up. And just be done with it. Lol. And I'll have to find the right setting with the warrior variable speed controller to where the drill gets it going. Bogs down but will not come to a stop lol. Trial and error. Especially first time

 

[mggray87]

Has some dust but this is 028 remeasured tight on the feeler. A single pass

Def finer than yesterday's 028 double pass.

I'm brewing on spike solo biab. Except not using their basket. I had a custom one made from arbor fab

 

[PCABrewing]

To my eye that looks pretty good, I don't think I'd go any finer.
Might be just a tiny bit of flour but I've definitely mashed like that and had no issues.