Blonde Ale Miller Lite (Really Triple Hopped)

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One problem you might run into with the extract is weighing out the liquids. I have an another extract version that you might want to try. Its not exactly the same, but you might find the ingredients easier to obtain and work with in brewing. This makes a very good light beer.

Weighing out thick liquids is difficult and very messy. With this recipe you add the entire contents of both containers. 3.3lbs and 1lb.

Here it is... Millerbrau
 
Michigan_Wolfman said:
Cool! I think I'll be giving the Millerbrau recipe a try! :mug:
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If you can't find hops with same alpha acids, its OK. I would use a noble variety like Hallertauer, Tettnanger Mt Hood, Liberty or Williamette.

This shows you good info about noble hops. http://www.eckraus.com/blog/what-are-noble-hops-v2

or you can set this to light ale and browse.
https://byo.com/resources/hops

Whatever you choose, note the alpha acids on the package. Then open the recipe in malt.io, To edit, I think you need to click on clone.

Set the AA% per the package and adjust the "OZ" at 60 minutes to hit close to 16-18 IBU.

You should be golden! :mug:
 
The current lot of Czech Saaz pellets at my LHBS is averaging 2.3% on AA. 1.75 OZs will put the IBUs at 17.1 on the cloned recipe. That's right in the ballpark. :mug:
 
Kegged mine today. Got the gravity down to 1.002. Tasted the sample and it did not taste bitter! Looks like I aged it long enough! It was actually tasty even though it was flat. Let's see what some co2 does to it.
 
attyindaburgh said:
Kegged mine today. Got the gravity down to 1.002. Tasted the sample and it did not taste bitter! Looks like I aged it long enough! It was actually tasty even though it was flat. Let's see what some co2 does to it.
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Co2 and cold.... It'll make you want to go mow some grass so you have an excuse to drink.

:D
 
attyindaburgh said:
Tasty but the head is a little lacking. Maybe next brew of this, I will add a little Carapils.
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Did you keg? How long on gas? If you have it on gas, crank it to 14 psi at 38F. ~2.8 vol of C02. It will lace good.

http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator/carbonation.html?18304708#tag

If you have enough hops, be it bittering, late or dry. If you add enough it does the lacing job for sure. At 18 IBU bittering with the late and dry hopping, I have good lacing.

Frankly, very few beers I make get the dry hopping and I have sheets of lacing on all of my beers.

If not it, could be water chem related.
 
Schlenkerla said:
How's it doing now?
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Everything's right on course. I took a gravity sample two weeks after racking onto the AE and gravity was a flat 1.000. I've actually never seen my hydrometer read that low 😊 Although I have an empty keg, I decided to bottle this one since I plan on bringing it on a camping trip and other places in June. During bottling the sample had that acrid bitterness at the end, but I know you said that will age out in a couple weeks. This weekend I'll cold crash one and make sure it's carbonated. If so, then they're all going in the garage fridge for a couple weeks. I'll report back once they've been in the cold for a while.

One question I had was that the beer was a little hazy when I was bottling. Maybe the yeast got stirred up a bit. I was wondering of yours is really clear when you bottle/keg or does it typically not drop super clear until it's been in the cold? I forgot to use a whirlfloc in the boil so maybe that's why?
 
BeerPower said:
One question I had was that the beer was a little hazy when I was bottling. Maybe the yeast got stirred up a bit. I was wondering of yours is really clear when you bottle/keg or does it typically not drop super clear until it's been in the cold? I forgot to use a whirlfloc in the boil so maybe that's why?
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My is always super clear. Its very clear at bottling/kegging. It will settle out, its not uncommon to bump yeast a little bit. It would not take much to make it a little cloudy. Time and cool temps will fix this.

I don't recall your yeast. US-05 or Nottingham? Both should clear well.
 
I used US-05. My beers with that yeast always drop pretty clear after 2-3 weeks in the cold, so I'm not worried about it. My camping trip isn't til mid June so I still have time. Thanks!
 
Sorry I dropped off the radar here. I've been super busy. This beer is STELLAR and I'll be making it again many times, for sure. This one is the most BMC-like I've ever made. Even my dad liked it, and he's the BMC-est of everyone I know. I should warn, I used Czech Saaz and skipped the dry hop. I'm sure that helped. It's still a delightfully crisp and enjoyable beer. Even I enjoy it and I prefer literally any craft beer over BMC.

I'll make it again and again with different hops. I think next I'll try Sorachi Ace since Schlenkerla's description of that had my mouth watering. I'll attach some beer porn so you all can see, although mine didn't seem to clear as much as everyone else's (I forgot to use a whirlfloc tab). Regardless, it was still clear and delicious enough to impress everyone who tried it!

IMAG0448.jpg


IMAG0449.jpg
 
If everything goes accordingly, I'm planning to brew a batch of the extract version this weekend. Can't wait to brew this one up and see how it turns out. :mug:
 
Hordak said:
Tasting Update - Bottle Conditioned

Schlenkerla just wanted to give you and other readers a tasting update. I did this recipe almost like your original but bumped up ABV with extra 2-row and made sure IBU's around 18-20 with Saaz and Mt Hood,dry hopped with Saaz. Clocked in at 5% on the nose.

1 Month and a day or two in the fridge: Horrible strange bittnerness or something, kind of thought maybe Saaz was the culprit. Kind of disappointing.

6 weeks and 10-14 days in the fridge: Totally different beer. Really good rendition of a pseudo Canadian lager but slight more flavour.

As you have previously stated over and over this beer needs I think a week if not two chilled as low as possible. I do a very similar tasting partial mash of a Coopers Mexican Lager extract but your recipe is way cheaper so thank-you for the recipe and your continued updates and question answering on the posts!
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Schlenkerla said:
Yup! - The AE is the culprit, with time chilled it fades completely. It makes the beer pretty bone dry and bumps your ABV for pennies.

I stress the fact of time and bottle lagering so people don't dump it when its just a young beer. It would be sad.

Glad you like it now!!!

Post pictures please. :mug:

YW!
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Hey guys! Been following this for a while and I think it's finally time to give it a go. One question regarding the issue above. Is this all a cold conditioning issue, or both bottle conditioning at room temp plus cold conditioning? What about if I keg it? Carb it slow giving it a good two weeks cold? Or longer?

Do any of you think this has any commercial potential? I'm close with a local Nano brew pub, and we were discussing that there are a lot of people who love craft beer but still want to watch carbs and calories. He was thinking something like this might be good to have on tap alongside all the standard "heavier" craft offerings. But I've never seen a craft brewer promote any of their offerings as being low carb or light in any way. Would that be a kiss of death for a craft brewer, or maybe a legitimate niche?

If this were offered in a craft brewery, it would certainly need to have a "crafty" hop profile. I was thinking maybe some soriachi ace might be interesting, followed with a cascade dry hop. Still definitely not exceeding about 18 IBUs.
 
TxBigHops said:
Hey guys! Been following this for a while and I think it's finally time to give it a go. One question regarding the issue above. Is this all a cold conditioning issue, or both bottle conditioning at room temp plus cold conditioning? What about if I keg it? Carb it slow giving it a good two weeks cold? Or longer?

Do any of you think this has any commercial potential? I'm close with a local Nano brew pub, and we were discussing that there are a lot of people who love craft beer but still want to watch carbs and calories. He was thinking something like this might be good to have on tap alongside all the standard "heavier" craft offerings. But I've never seen a craft brewer promote any of their offerings as being low carb or light in any way. Would that be a kiss of death for a craft brewer, or maybe a legitimate niche?

If this were offered in a craft brewery, it would certainly need to have a "crafty" hop profile. I was thinking maybe some soriachi ace might be interesting, followed with a cascade dry hop. Still definitely not exceeding about 18 IBUs.
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TxBigHops. Definitely. This like any beer needs time to condition to be free of the undesirable fermentation by products.

You could use this as a basic beer to learn hop taste and aroma (late addition and dry) Possibly Randallized. It could be a Hop-Turn-Style. Standard Halletauer one time, Spicey Perle, another time, then a Citrusy Sorachi, Cascade, Summit, Wai-iti and Wakatu. Skys the limit.

Definitely making the hop choice be a seasonal one. Citrus for summer, floral for spring, spicy for fall, piney for winter....

When you make this beer and hit it with Cascade, late and dry. Its ALL cascade, absolutely no malt flavor at all. If you just do the 60 minute addition you can perceive some malt resemblance. Its not obvious by any means but you can detect it if you look for it when swishing it around in your mouth.

https://byo.com/resources/hops

A good portion of craft beer people turn their nose to light beer, but put unique hops in to learn the taste profile and they come around to trying it out. Frankly it could be a gateway beer to the BMC crowd.

I made a Berliner Weisse thats 1.030 gravity and it went over well since the souring agent was "Fage" Brand Yogurt. Its sour, light and refreshing in summer heat like a summer shandy without the lemon. Its different in a cool way.

This clone is without a doubt a good money maker for a little brewery. The grain bill is small. Add the hop twist and you might have a new trend or new American Beer Style.

:mug:
 
Schlenkerla said:
TxBigHops. Definitely. This like any beer needs time to condition to be free of the undesirable fermentation by products.
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I hear you, but in reading this thread I got the impression that this particular beer needed more time to eliminate an unappealing bitter flavor from the AE. I mostly brew hoppy beers that can go from grain to glass in 2.5 - 4 weeks, depending on if they are bottle conditioned or kegged. I could see a 1.03 beer only being in primary for 7-10 days. Why are you leaving it 14 days prior to adding the AE? Is it because there is corn in the grist?

Also, once it is finished, I heard people saying that it needed extra conditioning time. I just wasn't sure if they were leaving it longer at room temp (if bottle conditioning) or just longer at cold temps.

You could use this as a basic beer to learn hop taste and aroma (late addition and dry) Possibly Randallized. It could be a Hop-Turn-Style. Standard Halletauer one time, Spicey Perle, another time, then a Citrusy Sorachi, Cascade, Summit, Wai-iti and Wakatu. Skys the limit.

Definitely making the hop choice be a seasonal one. Citrus for summer, floral for spring, spicy for fall, piney for winter....

When you make this beer and hit it with Cascade, late and dry. Its ALL cascade, absolutely no malt flavor at all. If you just do the 60 minute addition you can perceive some malt resemblance. Its not obvious by any means but you can detect it if you look for it when swishing it around in your mouth.

https://byo.com/resources/hops

A good portion of craft beer people turn their nose to light beer, but put unique hops in to learn the taste profile and they come around to trying it out. Frankly it could be a gateway beer to the BMC crowd.

I made a Berliner Weisse thats 1.030 gravity and it went over well since the souring agent was "Fage" Brand Yogurt. Its sour, light and refreshing in summer heat like a summer shandy without the lemon. Its different in a cool way.

This clone is without a doubt a good money maker for a little brewery. The grain bill is small. Add the hop twist and you might have a new trend or new American Beer Style.

:mug:
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These are all some really great ideas! Thanks!
 
One thing to note is the original recipe called for a lager yeast. Keep that in mind. I used the same durations but subbed with US-05.

The AE knocks out the corn-like flavor.

It's a time trade off for using a cheaper ingredient.

I have never tried to shorten the ferment time since it wasn't about money for me (time is money perspective business wise). Pitching a bigger, active starter would do it, then in a week or less do the AE for a week then chill for a while.

Do this in carboy and watch the activity, I'm sure it could be shortened. The AE needs time to convert. Maybe you could mash lower, longer and pitch AE a day later.

Maybe do a Krausen with AE. Have it diluted already.
 
Just for clarification; 7 days primary, 14 days 2ndary. Then a few weeks chilled. People have added the AE in the primary. I have never done this so I can't comment to how well it works.

I typically haven't rushed any of my beers except for the occasional wheat.

I'm sure you could speed it up with the things I mentioned in the above (previous) posts.
 
Schlenkerla said:
One thing to note is the original recipe called for a lager yeast. Keep that in mind. I used the same durations but subbed with US-05.

The AE knocks out the corn-like flavor.

It's a time trade off for using a cheaper ingredient.

I have never tried to shorten the ferment time since it wasn't about money for me (time is money perspective business wise). Pitching a bigger, active starter would do it, then in a week or less do the AE for a week then chill for a while.

Do this in carboy and watch the activity, I'm sure it could be shortened. The AE needs time to convert. Maybe you could mash lower, longer and pitch AE a day later.

Maybe do a Krausen with AE. Have it diluted already.
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Schlenkerla said:
Just for clarification; 7 days primary, 14 days 2ndary. Then a few weeks chilled. People have added the AE in the primary. I have never done this so I can't comment to how well it works.

I typically haven't rushed any of my beers except for the occasional wheat.

I'm sure you could speed it up with the things I mentioned in the above (previous) posts.
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Thanks for the additional insights. We are going to brew this next weekend. We brew in a SS conical, so not able to view it directly, but once active fermentation drops off in 7-8 days or so, I'll drop most of the yeast cake and trub, and introduce the AE. Then I'll give it about 2 more weeks, keg, cold storage for a week or two, then carbonate normally. (not burst carb) Do you think it's a good idea to let it sit cold before I carbonate, or can I put it on the gas as soon as it's kegged?
 
TxBigHops said:
Thanks for the additional insights. We are going to brew this next weekend. We brew in a SS conical, so not able to view it directly, but once active fermentation drops off in 7-8 days or so, I'll drop most of the yeast cake and trub, and introduce the AE. Then I'll give it about 2 more weeks, keg, cold storage for a week or two, then carbonate normally. (not burst carb) Do you think it's a good idea to let it sit cold before I carbonate, or can I put it on the gas as soon as it's kegged?
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You can put it on gas at the same time you chill. That's what I'd do. If you keep the AE and your beer at ferment temps for the warm AE aging you are good.

You should check your gravity along each step of the way. You want it 1.000. It's more of a desired target gravity. If you are 2-3 points high. I don't see that as a problem.

Make sure you use 6-Row though. It is enzyme rich, so it's good if your pale malt fully converts so the enzymes can work more on the corn.

At the end of the day you want it at 1.000, void of corn adjunct taste and very, very clean. This way it's light and 100% hop forward in a light beer way. If that makes sense.

I know a little bit of an oxymoron. Low cal, low bitterness, all hop flavaroma.

My homebrew clubs said I did a disservice to call it a Miller Lite Clone. They got the idea of its cool to have a light sorachi ace beer. Most of them said it was perfect beer to drink after mowing the grass. Brisk and refreshing.
 
You might be thinking AE in the mash and AE in the post boiled wort. Pitch a very high attenuating yeast. Then check gravity.

Try it the original way, then the "expedited way" on round two. You might find you can shorten the aging time if you have no corn taste.
 
So I have a new question. I've never brewed before with such a small grain bill. Brewers Friend water requirements is telling me to mash with less than 1/3 of my total required water volume, and that's after I bumped the mash thickness up to 1.5 qts per pound of grain. I'm worried that by the time I get all my sparge water through the grains that my gravity will be very low and I will be pulling tannins off the grains and husks. Should I mash even thinner to avoid this, or is it a non issue?
 
TxBigHops said:
So I have a new question. I've never brewed before with such a small grain bill. Brewers Friend water requirements is telling me to mash with less than 1/3 of my total required water volume, and that's after I bumped the mash thickness up to 1.5 qts per pound of grain. I'm worried that by the time I get all my sparge water through the grains that my gravity will be very low and I will be pulling tannins off the grains and husks. Should I mash even thinner to avoid this, or is it a non issue?
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Yes mash at 1-1.25 quarts per pound.

For a single infusion

Per The Complete Joy of Homebrewing.

Mash 6lbs;
1.5 gal water for dough in
0.6 gal loss for grain absorption
3.0 gal sparge at 170F
2.0 gal top off
 
Schlenkerla said:
Yes mash at 1-1.25 quarts per pound.

For a single infusion

Per The Complete Joy of Homebrewing.

Mash 6lbs;
1.5 gal water for dough in
0.6 gal loss for grain absorption
3.0 gal sparge at 170F
2.0 gal top off
Click to expand...

Sorry, been tied up the last few days. I think I see the answer to my question to keep from pulling tannins. You say you are topping off. So once my sparge is no longer pulling sugars, I just add water to the boil until I hit my desired gravity? Or do you mean to top off after the boil? I'm brewing a larger batch - 15 pounds of grain looking to put 16.5 gallons in the boil. So I will make the volume adjustments I need.
 
TxBigHops said:
Sorry, been tied up the last few days. I think I see the answer to my question to keep from pulling tannins. You say you are topping off. So once my sparge is no longer pulling sugars, I just add water to the boil until I hit my desired gravity? Or do you mean to top off after the boil? I'm brewing a larger batch - 15 pounds of grain looking to put 16.5 gallons in the boil. So I will make the volume adjustments I need.
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Top off prior to the boil. Triple everything.
 
Schlenkerla said:
How'd brew day go?
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Well... Only our second brew day with a new HERMS system. Stuck mash, so 1.5 hours delay while I run to buy rice hulls. Looks like I may need these for all my future brews. On the other hand, mad efficiency. Instead of 16.5 g in the kettle, I had to top up to over 20 g just to get the pre-boil gravity down to 1.030. Ended up with 15.75 g at 1.033 in the fermenter, and left some behind in the kettle.

Can't wait to see how the ferment goes, and then the amylase.
 
TxBigHops said:
Well... Only our second brew day with a new HERMS system. Stuck mash, so 1.5 hours delay while I run to buy rice hulls. Looks like I may need these for all my future brews. On the other hand, mad efficiency. Instead of 16.5 g in the kettle, I had to top up to over 20 g just to get the pre-boil gravity down to 1.030. Ended up with 15.75 g at 1.033 in the fermenter, and left some behind in the kettle.

Can't wait to see how the ferment goes, and then the amylase.
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Very Cool! What did you hop with in your boil?
 
TxBigHops said:
Only 4 days and we're already down to 1.006. Ready to put the AE in. Do we just sprinkle it?
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I normally siphon on top of the AE in the secondary. Either do this in another vessel or dilute with distilled water, add, and gently mix/blend to your beer. Measure carefully don't add too much.

What Hops did you go with on this batch?
 
Schlenkerla said:
I normally siphon on top of the AE in the secondary. Either do this in another vessel or dilute with distilled water, add, and gently mix/blend to your beer. Measure carefully don't add too much.

What Hops did you go with on this batch?
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Thanks. We ferment in a conical, so we just dropped the trub and its a secondary. I only used 1 tsp for over 15 gallons of beer, and there was still some krausen, so if it doesn't take off tomorrow I'll pull off a little beer, mix it up with another half teaspoon or so, and pour it back in. Sound reasonable?

We bittered with Sorachi Ace to about 18 IBUs (.8 oz @ 60) then did a whirlpool with .6 oz Sorachi Ace and 1 oz cascade. Gonna dry hop with the same as the whirlpool. Honestly, the beer we took for the gravity reading tasted pretty decent. A touch of lemon in an extremely light bodied beer. I think we're gonna like this!
 
TxBigHops said:
Thanks. We ferment in a conical, so we just dropped the trub and its a secondary. I only used 1 tsp for over 15 gallons of beer, and there was still some krausen, so if it doesn't take off tomorrow I'll pull off a little beer, mix it up with another half teaspoon or so, and pour it back in. Sound reasonable?

We bittered with Sorachi Ace to about 18 IBUs (.8 oz @ 60) then did a whirlpool with .6 oz Sorachi Ace and 1 oz cascade. Gonna dry hop with the same as the whirlpool. Honestly, the beer we took for the gravity reading tasted pretty decent. A touch of lemon in an extremely light bodied beer. I think we're gonna like this!
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The ratio is 1 tsp for 5 gallons... yeah I think so. You could go up to 3 no problem.

Awesome!!! - I'm looking forward to your first pint photos and comments.
 
I've read this post a few times of the years but have never made it. Tonight I read until page 28 and then the last 10 pages. One thing that caught my eye is that this was originally a lager recipe (with cluster hops) from charlie p. I have Homebrewers Gold which has the recipe. I'm tempted to make it a lager since I have one that ready to keg tomorrow and I can use the yeast cake (saflager 23).

I plan on going to the lhbs tomorrow for the ingredients but I'm going to follow Schlenkerlas recipe. it may be hard since there are so many different hops that could be used with the recipe to create a great beer.

I'm also attaching a pic of Charlie's recipe. Hope that's ok. I'll post pics when the beer is done!

image.jpg
 
TxBigHops said:
Thanks. We ferment in a conical, so we just dropped the trub and its a secondary. I only used 1 tsp for over 15 gallons of beer, and there was still some krausen, so if it doesn't take off tomorrow I'll pull off a little beer, mix it up with another half teaspoon or so, and pour it back in. Sound reasonable?

We bittered with Sorachi Ace to about 18 IBUs (.8 oz @ 60) then did a whirlpool with .6 oz Sorachi Ace and 1 oz cascade. Gonna dry hop with the same as the whirlpool. Honestly, the beer we took for the gravity reading tasted pretty decent. A touch of lemon in an extremely light bodied beer. I think we're gonna like this!
Click to expand...

Where are you at with your beer?
 

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