Megapot 1.2 Valve leaking problems

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TheMattTrain

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I'm hoping that I'm posting this in the correct forum. I recently purchased a Megapot 1.2 from Northern Brewer with the optional Ball Valve Assembly. It's When I initially installed the valve on the kettle, I had leaking issues between the lock nut and the valve itself. I e-mailed Northern Brewer who sent me a new nipple and valve along with some extra o-rings. The new nipple that they sent doesn't allow for me to screw on the coupler on the inside. It also doesn't allow me to screw the lock nut on far enough on the outside to allow room for the valve to be screwed on. I decided to reassemble with the original nipple and new valve, but the leak remains and at the exact same spot.

I'm planning on going out to the hardware store in the morning to grab another nipple, but does anyone have any idea how I could fix this if the new nipple doesn't do the trick? I'm worried that my brew day tomorrow will be ruined. I don't have another pot to use.

Links for reference:
Pot - 0http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/megapot-1-2-brew-kettle-with-ball-valve-thermometer.html
Valve that ships w/ Pot - http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/s-s-kettle-valve-kit-w-barb.html
 
Did you perhaps over tighten the fittings?

Try some new o-rings and tighten enough to engage the rings to seal but don't Hulk it. :D
 
I had Northern Brewer send me some new rings. I'm also using teflon tape on all threads. No luck. I've disassembled and reassembled multiple times.
 
Does the lock nut have a recessed area for the o-ring? Is it on both sides of the lock nut or just one?
 
Does the lock nut have a recessed area for the o-ring? Is it on both sides of the lock nut or just one?

Recessed on one side. I have the o-ring in the recess per the instructions.

I also tried doing it a different way that was posted in the review of the valve.

"I received this kit with my Megapot.
The quality of the parts seem fine, the installation instructions are not so good.

The instructions call for an o-ring and a lock nut on the exterior of the kettle. The pipe nipple is too short for this type of assembly and this leads to over tightening. That is why previous installers are experiencing o-rings that push out. There is no need for an o-ring on the exterior. I recommend installing the washer with the ball valve on the exterior of the kettle, install one o-ring and the locknut on the interior. Tighten the locknut by hand as tight as you can and then use a wrench to tighten the nut only a turn or two more. It's important not to over tighten. You will then have room to install the coupler on the pipe nipple on the other side of the locknut.

Check for leaks. If you have leaks give your locknut another quarter turn or two. If you still have leaks you may not have enough teflon tape on the pipe nipple. "

I've tried it with an o-ring on the outside as well and no luck. I've been redoing for the last hour or two. I'm currently trying the above method with a hand tighten only. That didn't work. I tried tightening it slightly with a wrench. Waiting to see if it holds with warm water still.
 
I've given up for the night.

I saw someone posted something about buying new, thicker o-rings for it. I'm gonna get up early and try to find something at the hardware store so I can try to salvage my brew day.
 
Matt - Good luck with this. Let us know how it turns out. I really like these kettles and was hoping NB would get them back in stock. :)
 
I had a heck of a time with mine too. I have that shorter nipple as well. Mine finally worked when I put it in this order...

[Outside to inside]
Ball valve
Flat Washer
Pot Wall
O-ring
Grooved nut

I'm able to just tighten this hand tight and it holds just fine. I found this setup keeps the valve much more secure so operating the valve doesn't make it flex and leak.

This doesn't leave enough threads on the inside to put on the coupler, but I haven't needed it yet.

I've made it through two BIAB brew days now without incident. Good luck with yours. I'm finding it to be a fantastic kettle for what I do.
 
That sounds frustrating, sorry to hear. Hopefully you can get some flat rubber washers or something. Obviously check plumbing and not the section where they have screws and such.
 
Got up and went to the hardware store. I got 3/4ID o-rings and put one on JUST the inside of the kettle on the inset part of the lock nut with the coupler behind it. The outside has only the washer and valve. Got it to seal nicely with just hand tightening. I'm currently boiling water in it and getting my mash water ready in hopes that I can brew today! Things are looking good so far!
 
I can't get the ball valve on mine with the parts they provided. I gave up and emailed them. Seems like the locknut gets stuck on the threaded nipple and won't tighten down all the way.
 
I'm just surprised that these pots cost what they do and don't even come assembled. What are you paying for, someone to drill a hole?

With Northern Brewer, you're paying essentially for that, and for someone to put a fancy-looking logo on it.

Quite frankly, their kettles are completely overpriced, but that's a topic that's not appropriate for this specific post, so I won't go into it further unless someone wants to host a different thread on the matter.
 
Megapot 1.2 is a bit pricey, but a solid kettle. I bought one because I have an older megapot and like the tri-clad bottom and also had a NB gift card. I initially had a problem installing the ball valve because of defective hardware, but NB sent me a new set that worked out great.
 
The megapot 1.2 is a pretty nice pot. I've seen the 10 gallon one in person and it's solid. No, I don't think it's worth the price but it is nicer than the Concord and Bayou Classic. The real tragedy is the weldless valve they sell. It's poorly designed and costs way too much for what you get. If I were to reconfigure their parts, it would be coupling, locknut, oring, pot wall, SS washer, valve. The only problem is, they use a brass locknut for no good reason.
 
The mega pot does have a tri clad bottom fwiw, that likely adds to the cost as well.

Yea Bobby, the brass locknut is a rather odd choice for a somewhat high end product?
 
I can't get the ball valve on mine with the parts they provided. I gave up and emailed them. Seems like the locknut gets stuck on the threaded nipple and won't tighten down all the way.

I got mine today and am having the same problem. What did you end up doing?
 
I got mine today and am having the same problem. What did you end up doing?

The second valve assembly they sent me was defective in this way as well. I ended up reusing the one from the first kit. I think it was bad machining on the nipple threads. Either way, call NB today and they'll send out a replacement. If you claim the whole valve is defective, you could end up with an entire extra valve kit.

If they can't have it to you by your next brew day, take it to Home Depot to see if you can find a replacement.
 
It's disappointing this is happening to so many people. My nut would not thread all the way down. NB sent me a replacement that works, but not following the provided install instructions.
For the price, they should be getting this right the first time.
 
After suffering a (big) deep 3rd degree burn from a fitting failure while brewing years ago, I no longer have the stones to do weldless fittings at all. No, it wasn't a weldless fitting failure, but still makes me very nervous. If it works for you, great. I'm putting one each on my picnic cooler mash tun and HLT, but that's it.

In the process of going all-electric, I'm going the silver solder / TC route in the BK, although Bobby is prototyping a SS heat stick that looks awesome - then, no need to cut holes / weld / solder the pot. Anxiously awaiting that product!

I bought a 26 gallon SS pot with two welded in fittings from MoreBeer: http://morebeer.com/products/26-gallon-stainless-brew-kettle-heavy-duty.html

$300 delivered. No leaks. Tri-clad bottom. Happy days.
 

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