Mega Pot 15 Gal Kettle Pin Hole - How to Repair It Suggestions

[lonestar1]

I've had a Mega Pot 15 kettle from Northern Brewer now for quite a few years. It has served me well except the lid handle snapped off. I had it rewelded with stainless rods. The welder said it appeared to be only tack welded and not fully welded along the base of each handle where it meets the lid. No biggie except I thought the welding should have been better, given the cost of the pot. I haven't brewed for three years since I got third-degree burns from boiling wort being transferred to my Chillzilla. The transfer hose popped off and boiled hot wort flowed onto my one foot. I'm still not healed completely, which is another story.

My real situation is this. I've always kept my brew equipment clean after each use. I've stored all the equipment these past three years. I decided to get over the 'fear' of repeating that stupid error on my part. I broke out the equipment a couple of days ago and boiled almost 15 gal of water laced with PBW. I wanted to ensure as much as possible that anything that had made its home inside the kettle was 'erased'. That went all fine & dandy. I then got all my grain and newly purchased yeast & hops ready with the yeast in a starter/stir plate.
Today, I filled the Mega Pot 15 gal with about 10 gal of filtered water to begin heating it. That's when I noticed a small stream of water pissing out along the bottom of the kettle. That had not been there when I initially boiled my batch of PBW. Upon inspecting the leak before & after emptying it, I got the impression that the stainless metal at the bottom of the kettle where it bends and makes the curve to form the kettle bottom, was thinner from appearance. Could this cause a leak from the repeated exposure to the flame that is so close to it? Meaning, if the metal was indeed thinner than it should be, could the years of extreme heat weaken the metal, allowing some type of deterioration process to occur? I've emailed Northern Brewer with the problem to see if they would replace it. Based on my experience with the handle, I'm suspicious now that the Quality Contro of manufacturing this pot has led to my current dilemma. I'm doubtful that NB will do anything for me. I'm also dismayed that you can no longer reach customer service by phone. That sucks. That's a real degradation to customer service for its customers.

Aside from getting someone to do a weld repair, if that is possible, has anyone had a similar leak issue and used a compound to seal a hole? Possibly some brand of high temp epoxy? Or the material used to bond or seal holes in mufflers? I don't have the resources to pay $304 for another Mega Pot from NB also given my being suspicion on their quality now. Anyone have a similar issue with the Mega Pot brand?
Thanks in advance for any guidance you can give me.
Ed

 

[CleanEmUpIves]

I would guess most quick fix compounds to be hazardous to your health.

High temperature Silver Solder may work to fix the hole but not sure it will be high enough for continued use.

Best bet would probably be a stainless weld ground smooth.

 

[day_trippr]

It certainly seems plausible that a manufacturing defect that resulted in exceptionally thin metal could eventually result in a leak, but of course we don't know if that's really what's going on or not. I would pursue NB to see what they might do, otherwise a pin hole could be sealed using silver solder. As long as one doesn't dry fire the kettle silver solder will hold up just fine - remember water boils at 212°F at sea level so any part of the kettle submerged in liquid isn't going to get much hotter than that...

Cheers!

 

[passedpawn]

I've had a Mega Pot 15 kettle from Northern Brewer now for quite a few years. It has served me well except the lid handle snapped off. I had it rewelded with stainless rods. The welder said it appeared to be only tack welded and not fully welded along the base of each handle where it meets the lid. No biggie except I thought the welding should have been better, given the cost of the pot. I haven't brewed for three years since I got third-degree burns from boiling wort being transferred to my Chillzilla. The transfer hose popped off and boiled hot wort flowed onto my one foot. I'm still not healed completely, which is another story.

My real situation is this. I've always kept my brew equipment clean after each use. I've stored all the equipment these past three years. I decided to get over the 'fear' of repeating that stupid error on my part. I broke out the equipment a couple of days ago and boiled almost 15 gal of water laced with PBW. I wanted to ensure as much as possible that anything that had made its home inside the kettle was 'erased'. That went all fine & dandy. I then got all my grain and newly purchased yeast & hops ready with the yeast in a starter/stir plate.
Today, I filled the Mega Pot 15 gal with about 10 gal of filtered water to begin heating it. That's when I noticed a small stream of water pissing out along the bottom of the kettle. That had not been there when I initially boiled my batch of PBW. Upon inspecting the leak before & after emptying it, I got the impression that the stainless metal at the bottom of the kettle where it bends and makes the curve to form the kettle bottom, was thinner from appearance. Could this cause a leak from the repeated exposure to the flame that is so close to it? Meaning, if the metal was indeed thinner than it should be, could the years of extreme heat weaken the metal, allowing some type of deterioration process to occur? I've emailed Northern Brewer with the problem to see if they would replace it. Based on my experience with the handle, I'm suspicious now that the Quality Contro of manufacturing this pot has led to my current dilemma. I'm doubtful that NB will do anything for me. I'm also dismayed that you can no longer reach customer service by phone. That sucks. That's a real degradation to customer service for its customers.

Aside from getting someone to do a weld repair, if that is possible, has anyone had a similar leak issue and used a compound to seal a hole? Possibly some brand of high temp epoxy? Or the material used to bond or seal holes in mufflers? I don't have the resources to pay $304 for another Mega Pot from NB also given my being suspicion on their quality now. Anyone have a similar issue with the Mega Pot brand?
Thanks in advance for any guidance you can give me.
Ed

By chance are you in FL?

 

[lonestar1]

I live in PA

 

[lonestar1]

I would guess most quick fix compounds to be hazardous to your health.

High temperature Silver Solder may work to fix the hole but not sure it will be high enough for continued use.

Best bet would probably be a stainless weld ground smooth.

Thanks!

 

[lonestar1]

It certainly seems plausible that a manufacturing defect that resulted in exceptionally thin metal could eventually result in a leak, but of course we don't know if that's really what's going on or not. I would pursue NB to see what they might do, otherwise a pin hole could be sealed using silver solder. As long as one doesn't dry fire the kettle silver solder will hold up just fine - remember water boils at 212°F at sea level so any part of the kettle submerged in liquid isn't going to get much hotter than that...

Cheers!

Thanks!

 

[lonestar1]

By chance are you in FL?

I live in PA

 

[Mark3885]

I was thinking JB Weld , but their website says it has not been tested for food or beverage.

 

[IslandLizard]

I was thinking JB Weld , but their website says it has not been tested for food or beverage.

The main issue is, it will come off, and rather soon. Chances are it won't even survive one brew session.

JB Weld's (and similar epoxy based products') adhesion properties are weak, and wildly overrated. We can safely say JB Weld has nothing to do with welding, the name is deceiving.

Silver solder is the simplest and best way to patch the pin hole.

 

[odie]

silver solder.

don't discount JB's magic. My kettle I tried 3-4 times to silver solder a 1" fitting for the heating element. Every time there was a very slight weep leak. The fitting was solid mounted but always a weep somewhere. I just put a bead of JB on the outside and sealed it. Has held for countless brews.

the 1/2" fitting silver soldered fine the first time and never leaked? don't know what I did wrong on the bigger one but I am done with it.

 

[day_trippr]

I would guess you weren't able to get the temperature high enough for a solid bond.
Heating up a big kettle ain't bean bag...

Cheers!

 

[IslandLizard]

I would guess you weren't able to get the temperature high enough for a solid bond.
Heating up a big kettle ain't bean bag...

Or the joint isn't clean or bare enough.
Also, larger voids are difficult to close.

 

[odie]

I would guess you weren't able to get the temperature high enough for a solid bond.
Heating up a big kettle ain't bean bag...

Cheers!

perhaps. A 1" ferule is much larger than a 1/2" one. Was much thicker mass too. Sheds heat even as I'm applying it. used plenty of flux but the solder would still start to "bead" up shortly after melting. was frustrating after seeing how easy and nice the 1/2 ferule came out.

If it ever gives out I will clean, sand, buff, etc and try again. but for now, it's solid and don't leak...ain't broke? don't fix it...

 

[hotbeer]

If there is any industry in your local area then there will also be some people that do welding of all sorts whether TIG, MIG, plasma, etc.

Maybe there is a local fabricator that does quite a bit with Stainless steel already and will have a experienced welder. Or perhaps a restaurant supply store will know of a welder that does odd jobs. Restaurants frequently need their SS stuff repaired or have SS tables and such custom built for them.

But pursue the issue with the vendor and maker first to see if they wish to give you some relief.

 

[lonestar1]

If there is any industry in your local area then there will also be some people that do welding of all sorts whether TIG, MIG, plasma, etc.

Maybe there is a local fabricator that does quite a bit with Stainless steel already and will have a experienced welder. Or perhaps a restaurant supply store will know of a welder that does odd jobs. Restaurants frequently need their SS stuff repaired or have SS tables and such custom built for them.

But pursue the issue with the vendor and maker first to see if they wish to give you some relief.

Thanks Hotbeer!

 

[lonestar1]

perhaps. A 1" ferule is much larger than a 1/2" one. Was much thicker mass too. Sheds heat even as I'm applying it. used plenty of flux but the solder would still start to "bead" up shortly after melting. was frustrating after seeing how easy and nice the 1/2 ferule came out.

If it ever gives out I will clean, sand, buff, etc and try again. but for now, it's solid and don't leak...ain't broke? don't fix it...

Thanks Odie!

 

[lonestar1]

Or the joint isn't clean or bare enough.
Also, larger voids are difficult to close.

Thanks IslamdLizard!

 

[lonestar1]

I would guess you weren't able to get the temperature high enough for a solid bond.
Heating up a big kettle ain't bean bag...

Cheers!

Thanks Daytripper!

 

[lonestar1]

I was thinking JB Weld , but their website says it has not been tested for food or beverage.

Thanks Mark3885!

 

[brewingupastorm]

drill it out and weld a fitting onto the kettle for a whirlpool port if it's in the right spot, or just screw a plug into the fitting.

 

[Bobby_M]

If you're in Eastern PA, I'm about 25 minutes into NJ. I can TIG weld over the spot.

 

[Closet Fermenter]

Not sure this will help, but my dad once acquired a n ancient air compressor. It had a pin hole in the bottom where undrained condensate had caused it to rust through. He drilled the hole out to solid metal, and sealed it with a sheet metal screw. That was back in the ‘70’s and I think my brother still has it!

 

[Bobby_M]

Not sure this will help, but my dad once acquired a n ancient air compressor. It had a pin hole in the bottom where undrained condensate had caused it to rust through. He drilled the hole out to solid metal, and sealed it with a sheet metal screw. That was back in the ‘70’s and I think my brother still has it!

A pressure tank with a rust-compromised structure is literally a grenade waiting to happen. Keeping this thing in service is a nomination into the Darwin Awards.

 

[Closet Fermenter]

A pressure tank with a rust-compromised structure is literally a grenade waiting to happen. Keeping this thing in service is a nomination into the Darwin Awards.

I appreciate your concern, but we’re not idiots as you imply. The pressure was set to around 40 psi; enough to fill a bicycle or car tire. It was probably made in the 40’s or 50’s; and it’s still plugging along. No worries.

 

[passedpawn]

I appreciate your concern, but we’re not idiots as you imply. The pressure was set to around 40 psi; enough to fill a bicycle or car tire. It was probably made in the 40’s or 50’s; and it’s still plugging along. No worries.

But I AM an idiot and often find comments such as his very helpful.

Also, note that pressure and force are two different things. If you're filling a bicycle tire up to 50psi and it blows, you walk away and get another tube. If you're filling a tractor tire at 50 psi and it blows, you will find your body flying over the house. The difference is the surface area. Multiply the pressure (psi) times the surface area (square inch) to get the resulting force.

I'll just drop the following here, for other idiots like me:

https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/be-careful-when-airing-up-tractor-tires_topic34643.html

 

[Closet Fermenter]

I feel more danger hauling a fully charged CO₂ tank in my car going 70mph down the interstate from the beverage supply store than I ever did from the old compressor, and for the same pressure/force reason you noted.

 

[passedpawn]

I feel more danger hauling a fully charged CO₂ tank in my car going 70mph down the interstate from the beverage supply store than I ever did from the old compressor, and for the same pressure/force reason you noted.

Does it have an old sheet metal screw sticking out of it?

 

[SanPancho]

I've had a Mega Pot 15 kettle from Northern Brewer now for quite a few years. It has served me well except the lid handle snapped off. I had it rewelded with stainless rods. The welder said it appeared to be only tack welded and not fully welded along the base of each handle where it meets the lid. No biggie except I thought the welding should have been better, given the cost of the pot. I haven't brewed for three years since I got third-degree burns from boiling wort being transferred to my Chillzilla. The transfer hose popped off and boiled hot wort flowed onto my one foot. I'm still not healed completely, which is another story.

My real situation is this. I've always kept my brew equipment clean after each use. I've stored all the equipment these past three years. I decided to get over the 'fear' of repeating that stupid error on my part. I broke out the equipment a couple of days ago and boiled almost 15 gal of water laced with PBW. I wanted to ensure as much as possible that anything that had made its home inside the kettle was 'erased'. That went all fine & dandy. I then got all my grain and newly purchased yeast & hops ready with the yeast in a starter/stir plate.
Today, I filled the Mega Pot 15 gal with about 10 gal of filtered water to begin heating it. That's when I noticed a small stream of water pissing out along the bottom of the kettle. That had not been there when I initially boiled my batch of PBW. Upon inspecting the leak before & after emptying it, I got the impression that the stainless metal at the bottom of the kettle where it bends and makes the curve to form the kettle bottom, was thinner from appearance. Could this cause a leak from the repeated exposure to the flame that is so close to it? Meaning, if the metal was indeed thinner than it should be, could the years of extreme heat weaken the metal, allowing some type of deterioration process to occur? I've emailed Northern Brewer with the problem to see if they would replace it. Based on my experience with the handle, I'm suspicious now that the Quality Contro of manufacturing this pot has led to my current dilemma. I'm doubtful that NB will do anything for me. I'm also dismayed that you can no longer reach customer service by phone. That sucks. That's a real degradation to customer service for its customers.

Aside from getting someone to do a weld repair, if that is possible, has anyone had a similar leak issue and used a compound to seal a hole? Possibly some brand of high temp epoxy? Or the material used to bond or seal holes in mufflers? I don't have the resources to pay $304 for another Mega Pot from NB also given my being suspicion on their quality now. Anyone have a similar issue with the Mega Pot brand?
Thanks in advance for any guidance you can give me.
Ed

is this really a pinhole leak? or possibly a stress fracture?

pinhole leak i would follow advice here and just dab some silver solder.

however- if it is a stress crack then to be honest you're on borrowed time and you should think about replacement. especially if you're in a weak spot in the steel- a bend area, someplace already welded/repaired, etc. we've wasted tons of time and energy trying to repair those on kettles, from little 100gal to 10bbl. it just gets worse. tried to solder. braze. TIG weld. etc. they just keep cracking.

yours wont get anything like the heat these things see- (250k btu direct fire) so hopefully its not a stress crack. or if it is, at lower rates of fire hopefully it wont spread too quickly.

but just reading your post gave me flashbacks of trying to fix heat-stressed kettle that just. kept. getting. worse.

 

[Bobby_M]

I appreciate your concern, but we’re not idiots as you imply. The pressure was set to around 40 psi; enough to fill a bicycle or car tire. It was probably made in the 40’s or 50’s; and it’s still plugging along. No worries.

I didn't call you an idiot. I think it's common for almost everyone to underestimate the danger involved. I bet the owners of these all thought "no worries".

I'm not interested in arguing about it, moving on....