Madueño's E-HERMS Build

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chapusin

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2012
Messages
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Location
Chula Vista
Hi guys, like most of you, I'm starting to build a e-herms system based on Kal's E-Brewery. Not everything is the same, for instance, I'm not using the omega timer and I'm not using the volt and amp meters they use. Mine is more like the one azwillnj built (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/hu...el-stir-plate-ferm-controller-61-pics-400554/).

So as you can tell, nothing extraordinary to see here, I mainly want to use this thread as a build log to keep records for myself. Some parts of it might benefit others too, as I will try to list everything I bought and how much I paid. I didn't cheap out on PID's so, you can probably pay less than I did by choosing other brands like mypid. I'm not including ball valves and quick disconnects because I already have them, however I am switching from kegs to kettles, so I'll put those here as well as I found them to be super cheap.

Lastly, I have no idea how to wire this thing up, specially the volt/amp display :drunk: but I will do my best to try and follow Kal's instructions for the rest and hopefully get help from Auber for the timer.

I will add pictures as I make advances in the project.

Enclosure

ENCLOSURE 16"(400)W X 16"(400)H X 8"(200)D WITH BACK PLATE. BEIGE COLOR - $79 + 16.49 shipping
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BR4IJOC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Sugatsune SWF 650 Stainless Steel Wire Pull Handle, Satin Finish, Threaded Holes, Round Grip, 5" Center To Center, 1-3/8" Projection (Pack of 2) - $15.76
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FMTURW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

2 of Sugatsune SWF 316 Stainless Steel Wire Pull Handle, Satin Finish, Threaded Holes, Round Grip, 12" Center To Center, 1-3/8" Projection (Pack of 1) - $12.50
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FMTUOK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Krylon 69322 Rust Protector Hammered Paint, Charcoal Gray Hammer - $9
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008PPVMOK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

PlastiKote T-235 Gray Sandable Primer Enamel - 12 Oz. - $7.84
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPAA3A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20



Power cables, connectors and elements

Carol 10 AWG 3C SJOOW Power Cable 25 ft. - $37.92 + $9.61 shipping
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PH83WU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

PETRA 90-2028 10-Foot 4-Wire Dryer Cord - $ 17.98
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014KO11O/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Arrow Hart NEMA L14-30 30 AMP 125/250V 3 Pole 4 Wire Flanged Inlet - $28.99
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121130342104?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Leviton 2713 30 Amp, 125/250 Volt, NEMA L14-30R, 3P, 4W, Locking Connector, Industrial Grade, Grounding - Black-White - $21.99
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKBZ5O/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

2 of Leviton 2621 30 Amp, 250 Volt, NEMA L6-30P, 2P, 3W, Locking Plug, Industrial Grade, Grounding - Black-White - $13.15 each
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002NARX/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

2 of Leviton 2620 30 Amp, 250 Volt, Flush Mounting Locking Receptacle, Industrial Grade, Grounding, V-0-MAX, Black - $15.95
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002NAT9/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

2 of Camco 02962/02963 5500W 240V Screw-In Lime Life Ripple Water Heater Element - Ultra Low Watt Density $28.72 each
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPG4LI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

2 of Hubbell Bell 5345-0 Two Gang 5-3/4-Inch Outlets Weatherproof Box, Gray - $11.16 each
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004WZ2V/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

4 of Master Electrician 2BC Weatherproof 2 Gang Blank Cover - $6.22 each
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ARCH6VW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

2 of 18-8 Stainless Steel Round Shim, Unpolished (Mill) Finish, Annealed, Hard Temper, ASTM A666, 0.075" Thickness, 1-1/2" ID, 2-1/4" OD - $ 2.88 each
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006U241XY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

217 Silicone O-Ring, 70A Durometer, Red, 1-3/16" ID, 1-7/16" OD, 1/8" Width (Pack of 25) - $6.34 each
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMYSEM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

2 of Type 304 Stainless Steel Threaded Pipe Fitting, 1 Pipe Size, Locknut, 150 PSI - $6.66 each
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=4464K586

2 of Standard Straight Cord Grip, Aluminum, 3/4" NPT Trade Size, .50"-.63" Cord Diameter - $7.90 each
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=7529K533

External enclosure components

Digital AC 300V 100A Blue Lcd Dual Panel Volt Amp Combo Meter+CT(Shunt) 110-220v - $9.88
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230974573262?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

3 of 1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller (SSR control output) Item # SYL-2352 - $46.50 each
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3

Timer for Beer Brewing, Multi-Events Item # JSL-73A - $42.32
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16&products_id=356

AC 220V Red LED Power Indicator Pilot Single Light Lamp 22mm - $2.52
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUW2NSC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

AD16-22SM AC 220V 22mm Flash Light Red LED Active Buzzer Beep Indicator - $4.87
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDKICFI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

2 of Amico 22mm Panel Mounted Hole Yellow LED Indicator Signal Light 220VAC - $3.66 each
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUW2MGA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

2 of Amico AC 220V Green LED Power Indicator Pilot Single Light Lamp 22mm - $3.68 each
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUW2LO8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Amico AC 220V Blue LED Power Indicator Pilot Single Light Lamp 22mm - $3.70
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUW2LVQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

6 of XB2BD21C NO 2 Positions Maintained Select Selector Switch - $3.29 each
http://www.ebay.com/itm/280793575996?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

XB2BJ33C 2N/O 3Positions Maintained Extended Lever Selector Switch - $3.29
http://www.ebay.com/itm/280793953483?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

XB2BG21C 1N/O 2Positions Maintained Key Select Selector Switch - $4.59
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281094978632?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649



Internal components

2 of 40A SSR Item # MGR-1D4840 - $19 each
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=30

2 of Amico Aluminum Heat Sink for Solid State Relay SSR Small Type Heat Dissipation - $5.90
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005D6145G/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

3 of 110VAC 30A DPDT Power Relay Motor Control Silver Alloy - $8.32 each
http://www.ebay.com/itm/280701739196?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

2 of Install Bay BVST6 Spade Terminal Vinyl Connector 16/14 Gauge #6, Blue (100-Pack) - $4.38 each
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HQ4QTI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

100 pc YELLOW RING TERMINALS 12-10 GAUGE WIRE 3/8" STUD $9.49
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380212700533?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Gino 5 Pcs Screw Type 22 AWG Wire 5 x 20mm Inline Fuse Holder - $5.68
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094DFECI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

100Pcs Glass Fuse 5X20mm Current 7A 250V Quick Blow Glass Fuse - $5.59
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190978809868?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

100Pcs Glass Fuse 5X20mm Current 7A 250V Quick Blow Glass Fuse - $5.59
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190978809868?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649



Probes

2 of Liquid tight RTD sensor, 1.5 inch, 1/2 NPT Thread Cable Option: 8 ft Deluxe Cable with mating connector/cable Item # PT100-L401/2NPT - $43 each
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=249

Liquid Tight RTD Sensor, 2� Probe, Weldless Fitting*** Cable Option: 8 ft Deluxe Cable with mating connector/cable
Item # PT100-L50M14 - $46
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_3&products_id=84



Miscellaneous

10 Feet XScorpion 3/4 Inch Black Heat Shrink Tubing - $5.25
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310794907281?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Sil-Bond Clear BBQ smoker RTV adhesive sealant Hi temp - $7.99
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171091964787?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

100 PCS Pack 6" inch Black Network Cable Cord Wire Ties - $2.94
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291025903945?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

2M Spiral Wire Wrap Tube Manage Cord - $2.09
http://www.ebay.com/itm/19097650282...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Thermal Grease Paste Compound Silicone for CPU Heat Sink $1.99
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400271236963?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Stainless Steel Flat Washers #6 Qty 100 - $2.75
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251057755559?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Stainless Steel Machine Screw Hex Nuts #6-32 Qty: 100 - $3.75
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360529266495?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Monoprice Cable tie mounts 25x25(mm), 100pcs/Pack - white - $5.67
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L16ZYU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Techflex PTN0.50BK25 Flexo PET General Purpose 1/2-inch Braided Cable Sleeve, Black - 25 Foot - $13.94
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UHQNUU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Neiko 01924A Ultimate Self-Adjusting Wire and Cable Stripper - $17.69
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IYTCG6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

2 of Momentive/GE Silicone Sealant, RTV108, 2.8-oz Tube, Semi-Clear - $6 each
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=7545A471

730BB1316 PUNCH UNIT ROUND - $41.96 + $6.96 shipping
http://www.all-spec.com/products/730BB1316.html

Greenlee 1 1/4" Round Radio Chassis Punch #730 with Box ... (310849472462) - $39
Bought used on ebay

GREENLEE 9/16" diameter Knockout Punch with Draw Stud - $18
Bought used on ebay



Kettles

NEW Polished Stainless Steel Stock Pot Brewing Kettle Large w/ Lid Avail in 5 Sz [100 QT] Item # 141115126841 - $337.35 + $30 shipping (total)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Polishe...60670823?pt=Cookware&var=&hash=item1e7ddd4067



Herms Coil

Not ordered yet, will order this
http://www.stainlessbrewing.com/Coiled-to-customers-request-035-304304L-Coiled-Tubing_p_30.html

and this I think
http://www.stainlessbrewing.com/12-Bulkhead-Connector-with-Gasket-and-Washer_p_109.html
 
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I used the same timer in my build. It's the same wiring as the JSL-71 (new) in this post from P-J: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/wiring-auber-jsl-71-reset-413105/#post5284118
The Auberins manual has a few diagrams, but I found P-J's more helpful.

If you haven't already, you should checkout some of the Tri Clover element enclosures out there. They're easy to build and make clean-up a lot easier IMO.

Good Luck!
 
If you haven't already, you should checkout some of the Tri Clover element enclosures out there. They're easy to build and make clean-up a lot easier IMO.

Good Luck!

Thanks! I'll check that diagram out. Also, I'd love to go tri-clover but my goal is to do everything weldless. Maybe when day when I get a sout tank hlt and boil kettle..
 
If you have to buy any more stainless fittings or camlocks and such , may I suggest bargainfittings.com... there prices are better than most and I have had excellent service from them. For example the stainless 1/2" nuts are like $3.50 with a silicone washer and they are top quality unlike some of the ones I bought on eBay.

Also beware of the smaller $6 eBay stainless valves they are super restrictive compared the the bigger ones (fatter) on there
 
If you have to buy any more stainless fittings or camlocks and such , may I suggest bargainfittings.com... there prices are better than most and I have had excellent service from them. For example the stainless 1/2" nuts are like $3.50 with a silicone washer and they are top quality unlike some of the ones I bought on eBay.

Also beware of the smaller $6 eBay stainless valves they are super restrictive compared the the bigger ones (fatter) on there

I love bargainfittings! brewhardware.com is also great but their shipping prices kills the deal in comparison to BF.
 
Just starting to gather all my parts for a very similar build, mine will be a 50A setup for back-to-back batches. I look forward to watching your progress.

When I was planning all the parts this came across my mind but decided against it, mostly because I don't have too much time left to finish this build (twins coming possibly next month) and saving some money in components. I can always upgrade later I guess. Good luck!
 
Some initial pictures:

I want my control panel to look as symmetrical as possible, so I started placing the components to look what would look best.

bqwwCDO.jpg


Came up with this design in photoshop. If anyone needs the original let me know. The botom right and left items will need to be moved about an inch up though, they hit the rubber seal the way they are now.

jHfr8QR.jpg


Started cutting the squares and putting holes in the middle of the circles.

svcRdcl.jpg


vE4NZHo.jpg


Let the drilling begin

Mh91UDh.jpg


This stepbit has taken a pounding! I highly recommend it. I have drilled 8 holes in my keggles and 2 of my friends have drilled their kettles with it, 15 holes later with this control panel, the 7/8 step is finally starting to give up.

F3uefu3.jpg


Holes are finished.

t0OE2rY.jpg


For the PID's you can use a DIN punch tool, which is super expensive, so I'll just cut them myself. I found this super easy to achieve. Just drill 2 holes on the corners, just big enough so the jig saw blade fits and then start cutting all the way to the corners.

f6MKLvr.jpg


OULqMSo.jpg


mncQ6WM.jpg


Coming next: Power receptacles drilling.

PyF1zXc.jpg
 
Finished the front

WynBC5m.jpg


Time to start drilling the holes for the power receptacles. Got this at lowes, 1 1/2 hole saw and 2 1/4 hole saw. Porter cable brand. Oh god, please do not buy this brand. It was hell.

OOToOlX.jpg


Not doing the job very well.

JKVRxB2.jpg


6BuZ5qZ.jpg


Got it after a while. Please buy lennox or something good.

OwP2dW9.jpg


Look at the width of these holes, the mandrel kept unscrewing itself as soon as it touched the metal, so it was wiggly as hell and made this horrible hole. These took a lot of time to make, the teeth were not sharp at all.

VQp2sjn.jpg


Filed down these 1 1/2 holes as the receptacles were a little bigger than that.

NhexsuH.jpg


Made a square for the 120v outlet and round holes for the temp sensors

5bxVAe4.jpg


Not too bad

CVJRhzf.jpg
 
Lightly sanded the enclosure. Time to prime and paint.

aCVHHMR.jpg


OwjaUZF.jpg


Priming was ok, but I did a ****ty job spray painting it :(

krJ9Qbz.jpg


Exktwlc.jpg


Some parts of it are rough, others smooth, others look like crap

RvrVrDB.jpg


HyGpVlt.jpg


jyFT7L9.jpg


Bottom looks all right

WlrWAnT.jpg


Components installed on the bottom and plate.

rnT6r7J.jpg


MPQgNSh.jpg


I can't stand how the front looks, I don't care that much about the sides, top or bottom but the front I do.

Anyone have an idea on how to fix it? Can I just buff and polish? Or do I need to sand the paint away and try to do it again?
 
I can't stand how the front looks, I don't care that much about the sides, top or bottom but the front I do.

Anyone have an idea on how to fix it? Can I just buff and polish? Or do I need to sand the paint away and try to do it again?

Light sanding and the repaint. Use even strokes and good coverage. See the painting direction on the can about re-applying coats (has to be done soon, otherwise you have to wait). Don't do it in too cold or too hot weather.

Kal
 
Light sanding and the repaint. Use even strokes and good coverage. See the painting direction on the can about re-applying coats (has to be done soon, otherwise you have to wait). Don't do it in too cold or too hot weather.

Kal

Thank you Kal. I sanded and re-painted. Looks amazing now. Love that paint you chose.
 
A few things have happened. First, I decided not to use the handle bars, so those are going back.

Second. The relays I'm using are becoming a pain to wire. They use tab connectors, and I can't see how people were able to fit two 10 awg connectors into a 10 awg tab connector. So those are going away and I ordered the ones Kal recommended, or at least they looked like them. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQRZ3G8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Third, the led indicators I had ordered were 240V, contacted auber and they told me they would work but the light would be very dim, so I ordered 120V ones. (kept 240v for the element lights).

And fourth, the 10 awg ring connectors I ordered have a hole that is way too big, so now I need to find some that are more appropiate for this application. I will probably buy them locally at home depot, don't want to wait 3 weeks for them to arrive from china.
 
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That's awesome! I'm starting to aquire pieces for my Kal-clone Electric Brewery! I'm building the stand this weekend.

Make sure to use the links on his website! These panels we're all building wouldn't exist as they are if it wasn't for him (or them? I think it's 2 guys but I always see Kal on the forums)
 
I had the same issue with the paint. Did you go with a very fine grit like a 400 wet sand?

Yes, I went to walmart and got a pack that had 100, 200 and 400 grit. I used the 400, I started sanding until the texture was flat so I could reapply the paint. I didn't prime again and didn't sand until I saw bare metal. Just enough so I could reapply the paint. After I sanded I cleaned all the dust with a Clorox wipe. Did I do it right? Most likely not, maybe I had t apply primer again, but it looks awesome now.

When painting again, start outside the edge of the box and finish outside as well, do horizontal streaks top to bottom, do light coats, keep the spray can at a reasonable distance and wait 10 minutes between coats.

image.jpg
 
Guys, I have a question. Well, 2:

First, the key in the off on switch, is it just for show? I can turn mine on or off without a key inserted.

Second, the auber timers and pids come with this little plastic box that pushes and locks the pid against the enclosure, however it looks like one of these little boxes is not doing it's job and it's not secured. I see that you can use a screw but if I use that, will the screw perforate the front of the enclosure and show outside?

image.jpg
 
Thank you!

Finally, my control panel is finished! Now I need to find someone with a 240v circuit and see if it actually turns on :D

cp1.jpg


cp2.jpg
 
Scored one of these for 400 bucks!

I'll replace the 1/2 inch valve, doesn't even look like it was stainless steel. I wonder if it's worth the cost to adapt to triclover, being that I would need an adapter and it will still have threads.

The 1 1/4 inch valve doesn't look that bad.

brewhemoth.jpg


brewhemothvalve.jpg


brwevalvebig.jpg
 
Almost finished punching the kettles and building the brewstand. These pots are pretty solid for what I paid for them!

Now I gotta figure out how to mount the pumps in a similar way as my old setup.

punch.jpg


brewstand.jpg


pump.jpg
 
Bought a Square D circuit on ebay, n00b mistake, looks like it won't fit.

I assembled the element boxes in the meantime.

circuit.jpg


boxes.jpg


boxes2.jpg
 
Ordered a mcmaster rotating nozzle, I will turn the fermenter upside down and insert it through the 4 inch opening so it can CIP, it will also work for cleaning the kettles if I put it on the inside, close the lid fill it with 3 gallons and recirculate, the march pump should be able to rotate the nozzle without issues.

 
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You might wanna take a close look at some of the lights you bought. For example. U bought 220v lights for your pumps, and your pumps only run at 110v.
The other 220v lights you can work with but I would have stayed with 110v. But that's just my opinion.



Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
You might wanna take a close look at some of the lights you bought. For example. U bought 220v lights for your pumps, and your pumps only run at 110v.
The other 220v lights you can work with but I would have stayed with 110v. But that's just my opinion.

Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

He may have used all 220v lights to keep his part list down. You can wire the light with X1 - Pump Control, X2 - Vb. This would allow you to have a switch control a 110V pump and 220V light :)
 
For simplicity sake I used all 220v rated led indicators, I haven't noticed a difference in brightness (or anything else) between ones run on 110v and 220v.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
True. I never did say you cant make it work. Im just saying as a electronics technician, i try to keep things as simple as possible so when i have to troubleshoot a circuit then it usually pays off to be organized.
I was wondering if the 220v would work on 110v. I just bought a couple last night of both for testing purposes and to build my control panel.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Damn, last week I spent like another $700, more fittings, sight glasses, second pump, stand, plywood, herms coil.. but man, it is worth it! Can't wait to brew on this thing..

photo 1 (10).jpg


photo 2 (9).jpg
 
Damn, last week I spent like another $700, more fittings, sight glasses, second pump, stand, plywood, herms coil.. but man, it is worth it! Can't wait to brew on this thing..

Looking good!

I ended up spending a lot more money on fittings, sight glass, pumps, etc. than on the electrical side, which is ironic since I spent much more time working on the electrical side than hardware.
 
Looking good!

I ended up spending a lot more money on fittings, sight glass, pumps, etc. than on the electrical side, which is ironic since I spent much more time working on the electrical side than hardware.

Yep it's amazing how fast fittings add up to the cost!

Just when I thought I was finished, I found that the box i used for my pumps won't handle the weight, it tilts forward. I'll need to build something out of wood and attach it to the base. It never ends!!
 
Got my circuit installed and finally I was able to test the control panel, everything is working 100%!

Had a 3 problems with it that I was able to fix on the same day. First, the volt/amp meter, as soon as I connected the power cable, it would light up and show 86V, when I would turn on the switch it would read the entire 240v, then when I would turn the switch off, it would stay on! Scratched my head for a while on this, the volt/amp meter must have some type of capacitor that keeps the relay open, so instead of having it read the voltage off the switch, I had it read one end of the voltage from the power led and the other end reads the voltage from the normally open side of the relay.

My pid's were reading around 1500 degrees haha, went back to the electricbrewery and found there were some things I needed to config on them.

As soon as I would turn on one pump, the other one would turn on as well. I went through my wiring, checked everything and asked myself what the hell was going on, then I found these outlets are bridged. I went back to home depot and asked for one that wasn't and I was told they didn't exist. I got pretty frustrated at this point because another one wouldn't fit in my control panel. Finally I looked online and say that the bridge can be easilly removed with pliers :D

Oh, one other thing, for some reason my key operated switch works with or without a key haha
 
It never ends buddy, I put my pumps and plate chiller in a big tool box. It ended up being a pain to move the thing around on brew day, much less store. So I just built a wooden caddy to replace to toolbox, it doesn't look as nice but it's a lot easier to move and store, and no worries about overheating.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
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