LP Burners for 20g batches?
- Thread starter CharlosCarlies
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So 7/64" is definitely too big. Even wide open I couldn't get the flame to clean up at all and flames were going 1/4 the way up the kettle.
I'm heating some strike water as we speak w/ the 3/32" and I had to throttle back the gas valve to keep the flame from coming up the side of the kettle. It also looks much more yellow/orange than it did w/o the kettle above it. Standard?
If you can adjust your burner position relative to the bottom of the pot, you may be able to get better performance at the high end with a bit more distance. There are also some threads on modifying the shields around the burner in stands like yours- trimming, adding vent holes, etc. One guy even used a blower to force air into the system.
Did you find a local source for your orifices (orifi?)? I haven't found a good hardware store in Austin that has survived the Home Depot/Lowes/Wal-Mart invasion. I love the low prices on common things, but selection and specialized parts got lost in the collateral damage. Dallas has Elliot's Hardware, and they have just about everything you could ever need.
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I was going to hard plumb it up w/ copper but after seeing how cheap/easy this stuff is: LINK. I went that route. Waaaay easier.
Unfortunately no. I had to order them from Bayou Classic (which has AWESOME customer service BTW...I ordered the wrong size and they were incredibly helpful fixing the issue).
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You know I was thinking the same thing. I just mounted the burners as low as they could go on the heat shield, but I might try making some kind of bracket and dropping them down another inch or two to see how that works. Thanks for the tip.
Are you using a converted keg, or a flat bottom kettle?, if it is a keg then cutting a couple vent holes in the skirt will greatly improve the burner operation and let you move the burner closer to the bottom of the keg. If it is a flat bottom pot then the addition of 1/2" square stock spacers between the frame and pot will greatly improve the flow of heat across the bottom of the pot and let the burner get enough secondary air.
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It's one of the 26g B3 kettles. The spacers sound like a good idea. I'll give that a shot.
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Well I just realized the gas valves are 1/4". The burners seem to be running better w/o them hooked up, but I could just be imagining it.
Is 1/4" too small considering how low of pressure we're using?
Is 1/4" too small considering how low of pressure we're using?
The 1/4" valves would be a bit on the small size for low pressure use, the size of the internal port is probably going to be the same size or smaller than the burner orifice, not a good thing. If you are going to replace the valve then consider using 3/8" valves with an opening 3-4 times the gas jet area to reduce the pressure drop problem.
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Well crap. 
Are there any reasonably priced ones that you can recommend?
Are there any reasonably priced ones that you can recommend?
Well crap.
Are there any reasonably priced ones that you can recommend?
Check Ebay. There are brass and bronze ball valves on there all the time for $1-2 each in lots of 4-6. I was wondering about your flow, since I will have to deal with the same thing for converting to NG. BobbyM experienced the same issue with his NG conversion due to pipe diam/length causing reduced flow.
If you can plumb a higher pressure line off your yard bomb to your brew area, that might make your life easier. It would mean at least one more reg, though.
Are you talking solenoid or ball valves?, look on the inside if they are ball valves, if the internal hole is around 1/4", don't sweat it they are okay. If they are solenoid valves take a picture or post the part number so I can research them for you. Valves for projects or Fremont industrial are good sources for solenoid valves, the next better alternative is the Honeywell VR8200 furnace valves.
WolfieBrew
Well-Known Member
Do you have any pictures (or links to pics) of vent holes cut in the keg skirt?
here is a link to EarthBounds build thread https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/earthbounds-rig-200474/.
RiverCityBrewer
Well-Known Member
That thread (post #10) says the vents cut in the skirt actually decreases the efficiency... is this your experience as well?
If the burners are not tuned correctly it might be possible, but my experience has shown an improvement with burner operation and waste heat going where you want instead of up the sides to burn up valve handles and tubing. Here is the configuration I have implemented with combustion venting to outdoors https://picasaweb.google.com/kevin.ladue/BoilKettle#5225673202891787298, here is the collector box https://picasaweb.google.com/kevin.ladue/WetTestProgressPhotoS#5225298718815106178
