Looking into a HERMS system.. Here's my approach and ???'s

[Sublime8365]

So I've been brewing a little over a year and a half and been all grain for all but 2 batches. Now I'm looking to step my setup up a notch and build a HERMS system (partially electric for now until I can go full electric). Disclaimer: I can't weld, have limited knowledge of circuitry (but will make sure I'm safe), and just started my research on this a few weeks ago so pardon me if I ask n00b questions.

Here's my priorities for building the system:

1. Controlling my mash temp (duh). My cooler that I use drops the temp a few degrees during the mash and I'm getting inconsistent results. I know buying a better cooler might be an easier solution but where's the fun in that? I will eventually upgrade my cooler as part of this system
2. Utilize as much of my existing equipment as possible in order to save some cash.
3. Research bargain parts do further reduce my cost.
4. Don't electrocute myself
5. Have fun and build a solid new brew system/toy to play with

So in my current setup I use a rectangular cooler for my mash tun and a 40 qt aluminum pot with a Bayou classic propane burner. I also have a 20 qt aluminum pot that was my first brew kettle for extract brews and 2.5 gal BIAB. I have a 30 ft immersion chiller that's only been used for two batches (replaced my crappy home built one that I now use as a pre chiller).

Since I brew 5 gal batches currently, I plan on utilizing my 20 qt pot and immersion chiller for my HLT. It may not always be enough for the mash water but I'm fine with using my 40 qt pot to heat up the mash water (if need be) and then using the HLT for circulating the wort during the mash and sparging (I currently batch sparge but might switch to fly if I can get my method down, but I might have to upgrade my cooler first).

Since I also don't have access to a 240v outlet at the moment, I was planning on installing a 120v 2000w heating element in my 20 qt HLT. I'll see how long it's going to take to heat the water from the faucet to mash temps and if it's too long just use my burner for that, no big deal. Eventually I'll attempt to go fully electric with a 240v element in my 40 qt pot but until then I'll still use the burner for the boil.

OK so my main questions are regarding the heating element install. I've read this thread https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/bling-bling-electric-herms-conversion-93217/ and electric brewery.com for my guidance.

First question, is there any safety concern with only using a PVC coupling outlined in the above thread or should I go with the box outlined in the electric brewery?

Second question, is there any reason why I can't use a SS nut with an aluminum pot for the inside of the heating element install?

Third, since the pot I plan on using is only 20qt, there's not a lot of real estate in there, should I be worried about scorching my chiller? I guess I could just stretch out the part of the coil that might come in contact with the element.

I plan on using a digital johnson control for maintaining the mash temp. In your opinion, where is the best place to have the temp probe? Should I look into a thermowell? (note: if at all possible, I'd like to be able to also use the johnson control for a ferm chamber when it's not brew day).

FYI, I plan on using this pump (crazy cheap!) http://www.lightobject.com/High-Tem...A-food-grade-Ideal-for-beer-brewing-P709.aspx Since I'm not planning on having it lift too much, I don't think it will be a problem, but we'll see.

So that's about it in a nutshell. Any big points that I left out? Any suggestions/additional research I need to do? (I've done more research than I put in here but it's a lot to type).

Let's hope this works!

 

[Sublime8365]

Anyone have any thoughts?

 

[audger]

>>>>> is there any safety concern with only using a PVC coupling outlined in the above thread or should I go with the box outlined in the electric brewery?

as long as the pot is grounded, theres no real difference other than mechanical stregnth of metal is obviously much higher. so you have to be careful not to bang it around.

>>>>>is there any reason why I can't use a SS nut with an aluminum pot for the inside of the heating element install?

there are plenty of weldless element installs around. the hard part is getting a flat nut to sit flush and water-tight against a concave surface of the pot.

>>>>>there's not a lot of real estate in there, should I be worried about scorching my chiller?

is this going to be a mash tun only or also a boil kettle? (you dont use a chiller in a mash tun) but the answer is no, because the element will (should) be off when you put the chiller in, and also because the chiller is copper, no?

>>>>>In your opinion, where is the best place to have the temp probe?

at the output of the pump / return to the mash. you will probably have issues putting it anywhere else.

>>>>>I plan on using this pump (crazy cheap!)
theres a reason. its TINY. 1.8 gallons/minute is "at best" with zero head pressure. you will probably struggle to circulate the mash fast enough for the HERMS to keep a decent temperature. if you get 1 quart per minute out of that thing, i would be suprised.