looking for some tips & feedback on going electric and BIAB

[A50SNAKE]

hello, I have made 5 5G batches so far, all grain with the cooler mash tun, and using my 8G kettle for a HLT & boil kettle...I am looking to go all electric, as living in Canada I would like to brew in the winter time inside plus I would like to automate as much as possible, within my budget...so...here is what I've got so far, and a few of my questions...I'm hoping some of you experienced electric BIAB'ers can help me out.

Some background info on what I am hoping is my new electric brewery:

I bought a used 20G kettle which already has this element in it:

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500.htm

you can see the pictures of the kettle attached, it also has a ball valve and a thermometer...so I think I am well on my way with that. The top of the element is sitting 6 inches above the bottom of the kettle. the top of the thermometer is also sitting 6 inches above the bottom.

I am afraid the bag will touch the element and then burn up, so I'm wondering can I get a false bottom to protect/separate the element from touching the bag? I'm thinking of going Basket down the road, but not just yet as I need a few more things first.

I know my lack of electrical skills, so I've purchased the Hosehead and it should hopefully be on the way soon, but I let him know, I'm not anywhere ready yet, so he can take his time, no rush.

I know I will need a pump to recirculate, some connections and silicon tubing as well. I do not have a sight glass on this pot yet either, so that might also be something I like to add.

I have an immersion chiller I made that I used with my 8G kettle, but I'm not sure if I can use that in my new 20G kettle, with the element on the bottom, unless of course, I get some kind of a false bottom that would also protect the element from the IC. again, I would like to go CFC, but an added expense that maybe can hopefully wait.

I also need to set up the wiring, spa panel and new outlets in the garage for me to use...but in the mean time, can I use my dryer outlet?

so, aside from the questions above, I have these ones I'm hoping people can help me out with:

in my 20G kettle, with the element 6 inches up, would I be able to do a 5G BIAB?

would 10G batches be possible?

would you suggest I get a false bottom? if so, from where and what should I get/look out for, knowing my future state, to keep it still usable down the road?

for the re-circulation, is there anything that just clips on the side and then goes inside the bucket? trying to avoid punching a hole in the lid or side of the kettle, as I do not have the tools for that. or are those two options considered the best routes, and I should find a way to get the holes made?

questions listed in my story above, brought down here for ease of locating :rockin::

can I get a false bottom to protect/separate the element from touching the bag? and are legs of >6 inches a good idea or common?

would the false bottom also protect the element from the immersion chiller?

I'm looking to hopefully add the bare minimum that I will need to get this going, and then upgrade or improve it down the road.

thanks everyone for your time to read this and hopefully help me get going on these changes to my set up.

 

[doug293cz]

With 5 gal batches, and the element 6" above the bottom, you may not have enough wort at the end of boil to cover the element (in my 15 gal pot, 5.5 gal is only 6-5/8" deep.) A false bottom that high would have most of the grain out of the strike water for all but extremely small grain bills. You really want the element as close to the bottom of the kettle as you can get it, and the same with any false bottom or basket.

Brew on

 

[A50SNAKE]

thank you doug293cz, I appreciate you taking the time to reply to my thread....and, I have to say, i was afraid someone would say that...DANG IT!

now, what if I only did 10G batches? that would be better I assume right?

also, if my logic also correct, regardless of kettle...but that you would not want the element coming into contact with the brew in a bag, bag? I was pretty sure they were not burn resistant. and the same with the chiller as well correct? I would not want my immersion chiller sitting or resting on the element either?

again, thanks for your reply.

 

[Paleface]

You could drill a new hole close to the bottom and move the element down where it should be. Then use a solder on a weldless TC ferrel for the existing hole and cap it with a plate.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc2rsf.htm

That hole could also be used for another purpose later on such as a whirlpool fitting or whatever. False bottom would then cover the element and you could brew higher gravity beers.

 

[madscientist451]

With the element where it is, I'd just keep mashing in the cooler and use the electric brewpot inside when its too cold out.

 

[A50SNAKE]

yeah, I really want to go all one single vessel, for ease of brewing...so I think I will have to drill another hole to lower the element.

do you all think I could re-use the current hole for a sight gauge? this kettle doesn't have one...but its not really in line with thermometer or ball valve, but I could just walk around the kettle to see it...and then not have to plug the hole

thoughts?