Looking for Kegerator Advice

[SubmergedBrewing]

All,

I looked through some previous threads, but most were a few years old and older so i thought I would pose my questions. I'm trying to build a space saving kegerator (probably better to be upright for space savings) that will hold at least 4 homebrew kegs, with C02 regulators for each keg that can differ from the original pressure, and taps from the front of the fridge. I have a few questions regarding this setup.

1. What is the best space saving models aka cu. ft that can accomodate the 4 homebrew kegs, CO2 regulators, and C02 tank (not opposed to mount regulators and tank outside of the fridge)?
2. What are good regulators to look at fot this build that would allow me to have seperate pressures on each keg? Are there models that allow me to build off of the older one (starting with one and slowly expand my kegerator when funds are available)?
3. Does anyone have specific opinions on taps and shanks and things to avoid for the 4 taps that would come out of the front of the fridge?
4. Any pictures that would help visulaize these talking points?

I'm sure more questions will result from the discussion but I thank everyone in advance for their knowledge and contribution.

 

[ajf1994]

Cheap way to get into a kegerator, expandable up to four taps, upgrading/adding (but not replacing) components as funds allow:

Stage 1:
Cheap 7 cu. ft. chest freezer
Corny keg (ball lock)
Picnic tap
CO2 tank and regulator
Hoses and fittings
Temp controller (I used an STC-1000)

That’s it. You can serve one keg at a time out of your freezer with no modifications.

Stage 2:
Another keg
Another picnic tap
4 port manifold
Fittings
Secondary regulator

Congrats, you can now serve two kegs at two pressures.

Stage 3:
Build collar
Buy real taps (forward sealing e.g. Perlick preferred) (up to four)
Buy additional kegs and secondary regulators (up to 2)

You’re done, you’ve made it. Have a drink.


I went right to stage 3, but starting with one, now three, up to six taps) on a 8.8 cu. ft., but without any secondary regulators.

This is pretty much the bible of freezer sizes. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/chest-freezer-specs-and-layouts.377518/

 

[grampamark]

If you want an upright fridge, for the smaller footprint, you can fit 4 corny kegs in most 16-17 cu ft models if you remove the shelves from the door.

I converted an old (circa 1959) GE fridge which was priced at a low, low, free-ninety-nine. I can only fit 3 kegs as I wanted to keep the shelves in the door. I have a 20lb Co2 bottle outside the fridge. I use a single regulator, but could add individual regulators to the manifold inside the fridge.

I used shanks that were a little longer than necessary to provide additional thermal mass inside the fridge. The idea is that the faucets stay colder when attached to cold shanks. Seems to work; even the first pour of the day isn't foamy. Individual regulators could be mounted to the manifold where the quarter turn valves are.

Removing the plastic shelves (outlined in red) would make room for one more keg.

I used no frills, non forward sealing faucets. I'm not a hardware snob. Those work just fine, for me. I use 10' of 3/16 beer line per faucet, coiled around the top of each keg. I get smooth, non-foamy pours every time.

I have around $450, spread out over several years, in the kegerator. I'm happy with it.

 

[SubmergedBrewing]

AJF, the step by step process is my original plan. it lets me plan this build throughout multiple paychecks. That Keezer link you sent is crazy! Who knows how long that process took to get all that done. If i do go keezer, I would probably do a 7 cu. ft.

 

[skou]

If you want an upright fridge, for the smaller footprint, you can fit 4 corny kegs in most 16-17 cu ft models if you remove the shelves from the door.

I converted an old (circa 1959) GE fridge which was priced at a low, low, free-ninety-nine. I can only fit 3 kegs as I wanted to keep the shelves in the door. I have a 20lb Co2 bottle outside the fridge. I use a single regulator, but could add individual regulators to the manifold inside the fridge.

I used shanks that were a little longer than necessary to provide additional thermal mass inside the fridge. The idea is that the faucets stay colder when attached to cold shanks. Seems to work; even the first pour of the day isn't foamy. Individual regulators could be mounted to the manifold where the quarter turn valves are.

Removing the plastic shelves (outlined in red) would make room for one more keg.

I used no frills, non forward sealing faucets. I'm not a hardware snob. Those work just fine, for me. I use 10' of 3/16 beer line per faucet, coiled around the top of each keg. I get smooth, non-foamy pours every time.

I have around $450, spread out over several years, in the kegerator. I'm happy with it.

Pinlocks?

I'm not the only person using Coke
kegs!

To the original poster, I was living in
Waimanalo, when I started homebrewing.
In fact, my second batch was my first
Stout. You ever heard that "rule" never
take beer to a job interview? Ali'i Brewing,
and I got the job!

(I wish I could find the grain bill for their
Macadamia Nut Brown Ale!)

steve

 

[day_trippr]

I agree with the 17cf fridge thing, I can get five ball locks in both of my 17cf top-freezer units, so there'd be room for four pin or ball lock kegs and a 20# gas cylinder with a primary reg, at least. Secondaries could likely be tucked into the door liner out of the way of kegs and faucets...

Cheers!

 

[SubmergedBrewing]

does anyone have opinion on regulators? I've looked at the major ones on amazon and most seem to have quite a lot of leaking reviews.

 

[day_trippr]

I would expect negative Amazon reviews of regulators to be dominated by first-time-users of same.
Anyway, I use Taprite, Chudnow and Micromatic regulators and rank them 1-3 in that order...

Cheers!