LME Questions

[natefrog255]

I'm currently making the transition from the Mr Beer malt extracts to LME from Briess, as well as upgrading my equipment. My question is I like the variety that Mr Beer offered with HME's such as Red Ale, Blonde Ale, etc. Obviously those are hopped but it seems that with Briess you have choices of Amber, Pilsen, Golden, etc. Its much more limited.

So my question is this, with Mr Beer are the HME basically the generic LME with hops added in the extract process? It just seems like my options are going to be much more limited if I don't use Mr Beer HME and if I am not using grains either.

Any advice is appreciated.

 

[hoghead]

When using HME you don't know how much or what kind of hops were used to make it. When using generic LME you choose your base malt, add the amount and type of hops you want, and can steep any specialty grains you want. Therefore, you have a huge amount of options using LME. I would say you are limiting yourself using HME.

 

[psymonkey]

The trick is to start using specialty grains, as noted above. You'll have exponentially more flexibility and if you're just steeping it doesn't even add much more effort really, certainly not anywhere near as much excitement as it adds to the process!

Just get a kit from your shop and it will include everything you need, start to finish.

 

[Calder]

Just use the Pilsen or Light LME. Don't get dark or amber.

Check out recipes, and buy the specialty grains and hops and you will find the variety is much bigger than Mr.Beer, you will have control of what goes into it, and it will be cheaper.

 

[natefrog255]

Thanks for the answers! So basically it looks like I will need to look into steeping grains and my options will be plentiful. Plus it adds a new process to what I currently do. Awesome, and thanks again!

 

[psymonkey]

That's correct. You're in for a real treat! That first time you smell the steeping grains, and then get the amazing aroma of the hop additions..it's a whole different world and you'll immediately feel more in tune with your beer

 

[natefrog255]

Just use the Pilsen or Light LME. Don't get dark or amber.

Check out recipes, and buy the specialty grains and hops and you will find the variety is much bigger than Mr.Beer, you will have control of what goes into it, and it will be cheaper.

I generally try to use the Briess LME so you're recommending stick with the Pilsen and Golden Light, and if I want a darker beer do so with the grains I choose to steep? Is there a reason not to use the dark or amber LME?

 

[Calder]

I generally try to use the Briess LME so you're recommending stick with the Pilsen and Golden Light, and if I want a darker beer do so with the grains I choose to steep? Is there a reason not to use the dark or amber LME?

1) I think you get a fresher flavor with the grains.

2) There is a lot of variety with grains, even just with the range of Crystals.

3) You don't know what was used to color the LME, or in what quantity. Was it light or dark Crystal, Special B, Chocolate, Black, or Roasted Barley, and how much, or just coloring.

Pilsen is basically made from Pilsner malt, and Golden Light is made from 2-row.

 

[natefrog255]

That makes sense and appreciate the information. I am looking forward to trying to steep. My latest concern is the area I use for brewing as far as fermenting, carbonating, and conditioning is a steady 60-62 degrees. I'm hoping this isnt going to hurt my beer. Some say that is too cold, but I don't have many other options and don't really want to have electric heaters going for safety/economy reasons. We'll see what happens!

 

[Calder]

My latest concern is the area I use for brewing as far as fermenting, carbonating, and conditioning is a steady 60-62 degrees. I'm hoping this isnt going to hurt my beer. Some say that is too cold, but I don't have many other options and don't really want to have electric heaters going for safety/economy reasons. We'll see what happens!

60-62 is fine. Some would say perfect.

Just make sure the yeast you use is OK to ferment at that temperature. Most ale and most dry yeasts work fine at that temperature, but there are some that will quit working below 65 F. It is simple to google the yeast and get the temperature range.

Sometimes floors can be colder than room air temperature. If that is the case, you might want to put some insulation under the fermenter (a piece of wood, or a folded blanket) as the fermenter will take on the temperature of the floor and your yeast may stall out before it finishes.

 

[unionrdr]

Or just rig up a fermenter stand like I did to get them at a comfortable working height. Keeps the FV's up nearer the warmer air in the room. Check out my gallery for pics of what I mean.