Liquid Yeast added to a Beer Kit

[The forager]

I would like to experiment using Wyeast Bohemian Lager 2124 in a Coopers Lager Kit. I was hoping I can wash and reuse the liquid yeast in other kits. Has anyone tried this?

 

[lumpher]

I wouldn't know why not, as long as it produces good beer the first time. Never know about the yeast in kits, but that would be my test.

 

[The forager]

Great. I might give it a go so. Thanks

 

[McMullan]

Excellent idea. May I suggest WLP800?

 

[marc1]

Great. I might give it a go so. Thanks

You can also make a starter, and save some of the starter for the next batch. I do this and find it much easier than collecting from the fermenter. With a lager, unless it is a small batch, you probably could use a starter anyway.

 

[Dr_Jeff]

Anything will help a Coopers kit.

 

[The forager]

Excellent idea. May I suggest WLP800?

Very difficult to find in Ireland. Sold out most of the time.

 

[The forager]

Anything will help a Coopers kit.

I’m very new to homebrew. Would you suggest another brand that would be better?

 

[The forager]

You can also make a starter, and save some of the starter for the next batch. I do this and find it much easier than collecting from the fermenter. With a lager, unless it is a small batch, you probably could use a starter anyway.

I’ll look it up how to make a starter. Thanks!

 

[IslandLizard]

When using liquid yeast it's always advisable to make a starter ahead of time:

• Prove viability (she's alive!):
  • Liquid yeast is a living organism.
  • She has been transported and stored under conditions often not known to you.
  • The liquid yeast you buy can be 2-4 months old.
• Revitalize the yeast, while ramping up cell count, ideally to the proper pitch rate:
  • Lagers need twice the pitch rate as ales.
  • Use a yeast calculator to estimate cell count needed for your pitch:
  • Homebrew Dad's Online Yeast Starter Calculator
• Overbuild the starter, growing more cells than you need to pitch:
  • You can then save out the extra yeast you made, from which you can make a new starter for a next brew.
  • It's called yeast ranching.
  • This practice saves money.

Only in a few cases can you pitch a sleeve or pack of liquid yeast directly, but chances are cell count may be low(ish), especially in Lagers, causing longer lag times, while you didn't prove viability.

 

[McMullan]

Very difficult to find in Ireland. Sold out most of the time.

They're far too busy selling that kveik shite. I'll be culturing up some WLP800 in a couple weeks. You're welcome to some for free plus postage, from Norway, just beyond the periphery of civilisation.

 

[Dr_Jeff]

I’m very new to homebrew. Would you suggest another brand that would be better?

I'm going to start this with:
I don't know what's available in Ireland, although most companies can ship to virtually anywhere.
Many people have and do make good beers with extract, I just feel that one can do better with all grain.

This was my experience.
My first kits were Coopers.
I followed the instructions exactly.
The beer tasted horrible, even though I tried to convince myself it was good, since I made it.
I drank most of it, a neighbor helped with some of it.

I learned how to brew all grain from another brewer, most have been good since then with a few that I didn't care for.
Those I didn't care for, others liked and I gave them away.

**** happens:
There was a time where I made several beers in a row that turned out to be infected.
I did a major cleaning and replaced all soft items, tubing, etc.
I had a few good batches, then the problem arose again.
Once again did a major cleaning, replacing all soft items, never figured out what the cause was.

I've been brewing pretty much great beers since.

My advice:
Get an all grain kit, do some research, watch a few videos, or find someone that can teach you.
There is wealth of information on this website, welcome to the homebrew community.
With the Brew In A Bag method (BIAB) you can do all grain with just a little more than what you have now.

A piece of advice that I got from a pro brewer when I got started, I didn't like the advice, but followed it anyway.
Pick a recipe, brew the same beer over and over until it tastes the same each time, this allows you to work out your process.
If you change anything, just change one thing at a time so that you know how it affected the outcome of the beer.
I brewed a bunch of stouts.

Darker beers can be a little more forgiving than lighter beers, as the dark grains can cover/mask some of the faults.
A pale ale or a bitter might be a good place to start.

 

[govner1]

I’m very new to homebrew. Would you suggest another brand that would be better?

In addition to all the other input I’d like to ask, as a beginner, if you have the ability to control your fermentation temps? Particularly with a lager.
If not I’d certainly follow the advice of the others in choosing something simpler for a starting point.
Also, read Palmer or others on how to brew.

 

[The forager]

Thank you everyone for your advice. So helpful.

My initial brewing time has been taken up with wine making. So am using beer kits until I get that going and have more of a routine. I do have a book on brewing “Brew” by James Morton.

As suggested above, I’ll go for an all grain kit and do some research. Thanks again.

 

[The forager]

They're far too busy selling that kveik shite. I'll be culturing up some WLP800 in a couple weeks. You're welcome to some for free plus postage, from Norway, just beyond the periphery of civilisation.

Thank you so much for the offer. I see this yeast available in the Uk, so will place an order now for it. Thanks for your offer though.

 

[Miraculix]

Don't buy kits. You never know how long they have been lying around.

Better just buy yourself one extract, one hop and one yeast, you don't need more and the beer will be great.

Open a new thread in the brewing section (not the recipe section) where you present your ideas for the recipe and we will guide you towards something tasty.

The big plus is that you will have a nice beer plus you will learn what you are doing.

Btw. If you want to brew a lager, mangrove jack California lager is the one to use as the other ones probably need lower and controlled temperatures.

But I recommend to do an American ale instead, just because it will yield a really nice result the easiest way.

Wlp 800 does well at warmer temperatures as well, so if you already bought it, make a starter and use that one. I like this yeast.

 

[The forager]

Don't buy kits. You never know how long they have been lying around.

Better just buy yourself one extract, one hop and one yeast, you don't need more and the beer will be great.

Open a new thread in the brewing section (not the recipe section) where you present your ideas for the recipe and we will guide you towards something tasty.

The big plus is that you will have a nice very plus you will learn what you are doing.

Btw. If you want to new a lager, mangrove jack California lager is the one to use as the other ones probably need lower and controlled temperatures.

But I recommend to do an American ale instead, just because it will yield a really nice result the easiest way.

Wlp 800 does well at warmer temperatures as well, so if you already bought it, make a starter and use that one. I like this yeast.

I just purchased the WIP800.

I think I have most equipment already. But I need a very large saucepan to make it?

I will read some more and post in the other section for recipe ideas.

 

[Miraculix]

I just purchased the WIP800.

I think I have most equipment already. But I need a very large saucepan to make it?

I will read some more and post in the other section for recipe ideas.

You need a big pot where you can boil the hops in, you don't need to necessarily boil the whole volume when using extract.

 

[bwible]

I’m very new to homebrew. Would you suggest another brand that would be better?

Since you say you are “very new” to brewing, I just wanted to bring it up, because I didn’t see it mentioned - 2124 is a lager yeast. Lager yeast works cold, and usually requires a temperature controlled place for fermentation. 50 degrees F or about 10C. Do you have a spare fridge or place to ferment around this temp?

 

[The forager]

You need a big pot where you can boil the hops in, you don't need to necessarily boil the whole volume when using extract.

Ok. I ordered the mangrove kit but the California one isn’t available here. So I’ll give another one a go.

I’ve a big pot. A brew shop about 100 miles from here so will go there in a week or so and ask them for some help with malt and hops.

 

[The forager]

Since you say you are “very new” to brewing, I just wanted to bring it up, because I didn’t see it mentioned - 2124 is a lager yeast. Lager yeast works cold, and usually requires a temperature controlled place for fermentation. 50 degrees F or about 10C. Do you have a spare fridge or place to ferment around this temp?

What is - 2124 yeast? I purchased WLP800.

 

[Dr_Jeff]

Wyeast 2124
Wyeast is another manufacturer of yeast here in the US.

 

[The forager]

Wyeast 2124
Wyeast is another manufacturer of yeast here in the US.

Ah I see. I’ll quiz the guys in the homebrew shop here and hopefully they can direct me some more. If I can make wine, I’m sure I can make beer. Thanks for your help.