Leaf Hops

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brew703

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Never used leaf hops before. Just curious if they are that different then using pellets.

I'm mainly asking as I have brewed three different SNPA clones and none came out close. The BYO version shows to DH with leaf hops. I've read where SN doesn't dry hop SNPA but I am willing to give it a try to see if it helps to get close to the commercial version.
Going to follow the BYO version using 1056 for the yeast.
http://byo.com/cider/item/3025-sierra-nevada-pale-ale-clone


Any thoughts on using leaf hops vs pellets for the dry hop and what can I expect?
 
my snpa clone is

10lbs 2 row
1 lb crystal 60
.5oz mag 60 min
.5oz perle 30 min
1oz cascade 10 min
2oz cascade flameout (i like to add it at 180f)

ive dry hopped this recipe with citra/amarillo aswell.

on the question of using pellets to dry hop. I would do it in a secondary and not your keg, if you dry hope with pellets in your serving keg itll bung up your dip tube BAD. DONT DO IT. Transfer if your gonna dry hop with pellets.

Dry hopping with leaf hops is no problem in a keg in a bag, fill the bag, toss some marbles in, tie it off, drop it in.
 
Dry hopping shouldn't be an issue but boil additions can pose a few problems. I learned this the hard way last year when I purchased a mini bale of centennial. The issue is the run off from the boil kettle. I find the only thing that works is a bazooka tube, however I will say that it works quite well. As for the dry hopping be careful how long you leave the hops in the secondary/keg/primary. I've only experienced grassyness once and that was from dry hopping with leaf. I read somewhere that you need to dry hop leaf for longer than pellets so I left the hops in the primary for 10 days. Initially that beer tasted like lawn clippings, however it did subside after a few weeks.
 
I like dry hopping with leaf hops in bags or stainless mesh tea-balls. I get a smoother, less oniony flavor with lots of leaf as opposed to lots of pellet hops and it definitley makes life easier later with no hop gunk clogging up the works.
 
Supposedly you need 10% more hops than pellets. Being pulverized, the pellets give up their oils a lot easier.

Pros:
- They have more flavor when fresh (IMHO)
- ........ that's about all I can come up with - use quick

Cons
- Need 10% more (but I doubt you would notice the difference)
- Takes up more storage space in the freezer
- Absorbs more wort in the kettle (a lot more, but you can squeeze them to get some back)
- Do not store as well. I think they lose more of their flavor than pellets over the same time (stored 0 F in freezer)
- More effort required for dry hopping (I bag whole cone and add marbles to weigh them down)
- More beer lost to whole cones when dry hopping.

I know I am being pretty negative on the whole hops, but I love to use them 'fresh' (not sure how you get fresh from something dry, but you get what I mean). I'll get an lb of Citra or an lb of Simcoe, or similar, and make sure I use them within about 6 months to get the benefit from the whole hops. They make great beers. If I'm pulling 2-year old hops from the freezer, I have no issue with pellets, but with whole cones I'm kind of wary if they are that old (I'll use them, but they don't seem to hold up as well).
 
Thanks for the info. I did get an oz of Cascade leaf hops. My plan is to use it as a dry hop. I was going to toss them in the primary but after reading some of the comments here and elsewhere, I may use a hop sock (sanitized) but now the question is how long. I usually dry hop 5 days w pellets so it seems I should go longer with leaf.
 
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