The walls freeze up a little. When it reaches temp the ice melts and puddles at the bottom
The walls freeze up a little. When it reaches temp the ice melts and puddles at the bottom
Might you be willing to share where you purchased your components?
First off, thanks to HBT for all the awesome threads / resources on how to build a keezer!
I decided to start kegging recently because my bottler (wife) was in the local homebrew store with me and said "hey what are those shiny keg looking things?". Of course everyone within ear shot jumped into the discussion and convinced my wife that kegging is the way to go. She resigned as our official bottler on the ride home. :smack:
I guess it was only a matter of time before I was kegging so here we go.
I figured a good start would be 4 taps and I wanted to go the tower route rather than the collar route. I picked up the Freezer at Sears ($280ish) and then found a bunch of nice shiny bits to start the project.
Step one was temp control. I tried the Course Adjustment Screw method for about a week but I could not get the temp range that I wanted (it would swing from 34-50 in 24 hours). So I returned the screw to it's original position and then ordered the InkBird controller. I found a clean place to mount it in the side and wire it directly rather than have a box on the outside. Next I ordered some kegs (4 new + 1 used) and added some nifty labels. Next drill some scary holes in the lid of the freezer and mount the towers. Then, add a 10# tank and lines. And finally admire the work.
I just kegged my first 5 gallon batch of a dark scoth ale and I should be able to test it out soon (I am using the set and forget method while I am still learning how kegs work).
.... I pretty much duplicated this setup and apart from some shipping delays everything is great.
:rockin:
Sorry if this has been asked before, I'm lazy and didn't want to read through the whole thread. I like how you mounted the controller, how did you ultimately wind up routing the temp probe to the keezer?
One reason for the tower over a collar is less chance of walking into a tap(that is a huge priority with me! I have a vary bad back/leg nerve damage and have been known to go left instead of straight with no warning). Plus it takes less floor space...
... how did you ultimately wind up routing the temp probe to the keezer?
I don't want to be "that guy" and it's a very impressive, very nice built and all, and I don't want to start a "collar" vs. "tower" thread - to each his own. But in case anyone reading this needs this information, yes, collar has a slightly higher footprint due to extending taps, but I have never personally noticed the difference, and I never bumped into my taps randomly, even when slightly drunk.
The advantage of collar, however is that your beer lines never get warm, since they are always inside the keggerator.
You never pay extra $ for the tower.
You can have as many taps as you want, at any location/configuration you want. Total freedom of configuration/design.
You have extra vertical space to put tall kegs or any extra bottles of beer, or jars of yeast etc. Most freezers are a bit too short to fit some of the kegs with lid closed.
You never have to worry about opening the keezer lid and what happens to those beer lines - in collar configuration they stay put under the lid.
You never have to drill through the lid or the side of the freezer - not just for taps, but for thermocouple, fan wires, or CO2 and N2 lines (my tanks sit outside of keggerator to save space for kegs) etc.
My freezer is about the same size as yours, maybe a tiny bit lager, but I have 8 taps (my freezer can fit 7 full 5G kegs and 2x 3G kegs, or replace one of the 5G kegs with 2x3G torpedo kegs ). I can see how tower can accommodate 2, 4, maybe 6 taps, but it's hard to see 8 tap tower in similar size footprint.
Can you measure and tell me the actual height of the internal freezer? I am asking to ensure my kegs fit as I have noticed each brand can be up to an inch plus off depending..
Thanks,
Jeff
To the OP, if you're still following... How did you drill the holes in the top for the tower? Hole saw? If so, what size? Thanks!!
Another question, how much line, width and type did you use to equalize pressure and get good pours?
Thanks,
Jeff
Your picture of wiring it up confused me a little bit so I figured I would post the wiring diagram I am going to use and get your opinion or anyone else's on it.
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
Finally found a good deal through sears on this model so ordered it and the STC-1000. Your picture of wiring it up confused me a little bit so I figured I would post the wiring diagram I am going to use and get your opinion or anyone else's on it. Obviously by being confused would represent my limited background in electricity.
I am just unsure of your jumper on what I am seeing on the neutral (maybe picture is deceiving for where the wire is actually coming from) and also the double wires that are put inside the STC power side. Figured it was safer to ask then be sorry and show a diagram I plan on using.
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
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