Kegging...
- Thread starter sok454
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I recently started kegging too, in fact I kegged my 3rd brew last weekend. Best advice is not to get rid of your bottling gear, I have still needed some of it to bottle off samples from the kegs. Also, unless you are planning for long time storage after bottling from your kegs, don't spend the money on a pressure filler. Easy to give the bottles a shot of CO2 and fill using your tap.
LovesIPA
Well-Known Member
Hmmm... some things I've learned the hard way.
The gas and liquid posts are different. The gas post has notches cut into the corners of the hex-shaped heads on the posts. If you switch the posts accidentally, the quick disconnects can be VERY difficult to remove.
Chrome-plated hardware won't last as long as stainless steel hardware (shanks & faucets).
Perlick makes the best faucets on the market.
Hard-wiring a temperature controller into a chest freezer is the easiest and quickest way to regulate temperature. I like the STC-1000. They're cheap and they work well.
Don't overfill a keg. If you do and the CO2 cylinder runs out, the carbonation will push the beer through the hoses, into the regulator, and even into the tank. This is not good for whoever gets the tank next.
Expect to have to use some kind of moisture control inside the keezer.
Immerse the temperature probe into a bottle of water and tape it in place. This way the keezer is reacting to the temperature of the liquid rather than the air inside. It also reduces how often the compressor will cycle.
The gas and liquid posts are different. The gas post has notches cut into the corners of the hex-shaped heads on the posts. If you switch the posts accidentally, the quick disconnects can be VERY difficult to remove.
Chrome-plated hardware won't last as long as stainless steel hardware (shanks & faucets).
Perlick makes the best faucets on the market.
Hard-wiring a temperature controller into a chest freezer is the easiest and quickest way to regulate temperature. I like the STC-1000. They're cheap and they work well.
Don't overfill a keg. If you do and the CO2 cylinder runs out, the carbonation will push the beer through the hoses, into the regulator, and even into the tank. This is not good for whoever gets the tank next.
Expect to have to use some kind of moisture control inside the keezer.
Immerse the temperature probe into a bottle of water and tape it in place. This way the keezer is reacting to the temperature of the liquid rather than the air inside. It also reduces how often the compressor will cycle.
cjhammel
Well-Known Member
Like most things in homebrewing you need to remember patience. It takes time for CO2 to dissolve in beer. My recommendation would be use the set it and forget it method of carbonation. (There are other methods out there to more quickly get the keg carbed.) Set your regulator to 12 PSI attach to keg and let set for 7-14 days. You can start tasting at 7 days but it might not be carbed until later. I have had beers that took 21 days to carb.
Also most keg kits come with too short liquid lines you will need about 12 feet of liquid out line to properly balance your pours. Otherwise foaming will occur. I think that is the most frustrating thing about kegging is understanding how to properly balance the pressure and carbonation levels to get a constant pour through the whole keg.
If you ordered a picnic tap you can look here on ways to fill bottles with just an old racking cane and a stopper. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/we-no-need-no-stinking-beer-gun-24678/
I have used this method and it works well.
Also you need to not forget sanitation some method of cleaning your beer lines and taps. You can check the kegging forum for good hints to keep the beer lines and taps clean.
There is nothing like coming home from work and pouring your self a nice cold mug of homebrew
Also most keg kits come with too short liquid lines you will need about 12 feet of liquid out line to properly balance your pours. Otherwise foaming will occur. I think that is the most frustrating thing about kegging is understanding how to properly balance the pressure and carbonation levels to get a constant pour through the whole keg.
If you ordered a picnic tap you can look here on ways to fill bottles with just an old racking cane and a stopper. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/we-no-need-no-stinking-beer-gun-24678/
I have used this method and it works well.
Also you need to not forget sanitation some method of cleaning your beer lines and taps. You can check the kegging forum for good hints to keep the beer lines and taps clean.
There is nothing like coming home from work and pouring your self a nice cold mug of homebrew
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/keg-force-carbing-methods-illustrated-73328/
Lots of good stuff here as well as the other keg stickies at the top of the bottle/keg forum
Lots of good stuff here as well as the other keg stickies at the top of the bottle/keg forum
Like most things in homebrewing you need to remember patience. It takes time for CO2 to dissolve in beer. My recommendation would be use the set it and forget it method of carbonation. (There are other methods out there to more quickly get the keg carbed.) Set your regulator to 12 PSI attach to keg and let set for 7-14 days. You can start tasting at 7 days but it might not be carbed until later. I have had beers that took 21 days to carb.
Also most keg kits come with too short liquid lines you will need about 12 feet of liquid out line to properly balance your pours. Otherwise foaming will occur. I think that is the most frustrating thing about kegging is understanding how to properly balance the pressure and carbonation levels to get a constant pour through the whole keg.
If you ordered a picnic tap you can look here on ways to fill bottles with just an old racking cane and a stopper. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/we-no-need-no-stinking-beer-gun-24678/
I have used this method and it works well.
Also you need to not forget sanitation some method of cleaning your beer lines and taps. You can check the kegging forum for good hints to keep the beer lines and taps clean.
There is nothing like coming home from work and pouring your self a nice cold mug of homebrew
+1 to all of the above.
Also, if you haven't ordered faucets yet, get Perlick 525SS to start with. Cheaper ones are much more apt to leak and stick. You'll replace cheap ones later and spend more in the end.
Remember that taps work best as on/off switches. If you try to open just a bit, you get foam.
With 12ft lines, try 38*F, 11psi as a starting point.
Enjoy.
Use LONG hoses. 3/16 BEER hoses (for liquid).
I can not stress that enough. Saves a lot of headache and you can pour a high carbed beer like belgians/heffe's with no problems.
Keep a consistent temperature and use a chart/calculator to figure out pressure for your beer style matched to the beer temp in the fridge.
If you use any spices like cloves, vanilla, mint, etc, then use a dedicated tap! The taste from cloves etc will linger for eons and is really hard to get out of the beer line.
Your beer will change for the better if it's been on gas for a while. (weeks)
Force carb if you must. We've all done it we've run low on beer. But watch out you don't overcarb. If you force carb at room temp to a satisfying result, remember that more co2 will be absorbed at that same pressure if left to cool in the keggerator so drop the pressure back to serving pressure.
Sometimes the seal between the liquid dip tube and the post will leak (o-ring or flat ring). If it does it will allow co2 to enter the beer line and will foam your pour. Rare, but if you get any headaches with unsolveable foaming issues, check the seal.
Air side post (external) seal and the main corny seal. Check for cracks. I acquired some older carboys that looked great, but when I took the lid seal off and flexed it, I realized it was cracked all to hell. CO2 will leak if these seals are hooped.
When sealing the lid, give it a good yank before pushing the rods down and try to seal at high pressure (30psi is good). Spray the lid with soapy water to check for leaks. I drained fresh 20lb CO2 bottle in 2 days cause of a leaking lid seal. ugh.
I can not stress that enough. Saves a lot of headache and you can pour a high carbed beer like belgians/heffe's with no problems.
Keep a consistent temperature and use a chart/calculator to figure out pressure for your beer style matched to the beer temp in the fridge.
If you use any spices like cloves, vanilla, mint, etc, then use a dedicated tap! The taste from cloves etc will linger for eons and is really hard to get out of the beer line.
Your beer will change for the better if it's been on gas for a while. (weeks)
Force carb if you must. We've all done it we've run low on beer. But watch out you don't overcarb. If you force carb at room temp to a satisfying result, remember that more co2 will be absorbed at that same pressure if left to cool in the keggerator so drop the pressure back to serving pressure.
Sometimes the seal between the liquid dip tube and the post will leak (o-ring or flat ring). If it does it will allow co2 to enter the beer line and will foam your pour. Rare, but if you get any headaches with unsolveable foaming issues, check the seal.
Air side post (external) seal and the main corny seal. Check for cracks. I acquired some older carboys that looked great, but when I took the lid seal off and flexed it, I realized it was cracked all to hell. CO2 will leak if these seals are hooped.
When sealing the lid, give it a good yank before pushing the rods down and try to seal at high pressure (30psi is good). Spray the lid with soapy water to check for leaks. I drained fresh 20lb CO2 bottle in 2 days cause of a leaking lid seal. ugh.
Got everything kegged on Saturday afternoon. Love it compared to bottling! Initially had a few minor leaks I had to tighten but keg has held pressure for the last 2 days. Tried a sample last night and its already carbing up nicely. Its just a basic cream ale so nothing exotic. Tastes like a stronger tastier bud product. Friends will love it.
I set it originally at 12psi for the first day. Then yesterday I raised it up to 24psi. Going to lower it back down after I get home from work to 9-10 psi and leave it at that level for serving.
I am sensing a kegerator project in my near future.
I set it originally at 12psi for the first day. Then yesterday I raised it up to 24psi. Going to lower it back down after I get home from work to 9-10 psi and leave it at that level for serving.
I am sensing a kegerator project in my near future.
I agree with the above.
- 10-12 foot of 3/16 id lines will save you from the obligatory "FOAMY KEG HALLLLP" post.
- Buy quality taps\shanks. It will save you money and trouble in the long run. (Forward sealing is really nice, as is full stainless steel)
- Tap condoms or plugs aren't a bad investment. It is also funny to watch when people forget to take them off when they pour a beer.
- Brew often, have at least one keg as backup. Kegs are fickle and blow at inopportune times. The keg you really want to kick will last forever, the one you want to stretch will kick quick. CO2 tanks also tend to run out at bad times, and most people lose at least one tank of CO2 to leaks. Having a spare(or a keg charger) is not necessarily a bad thing.
- I put in a spare gas line in my keezer for carbonation while the others are dispensing. It is nice to have a keg ready to be swapped in and quick.
- Clean your kegs well, replace the O-rings, make sure you test for leaks and get a good seal.
- If you are building a kegerator/keezer, tape your temp probe to the fullest keg, or submerge in a liquid, your compressor will kick in less often and prolong the life of your -ator.
- The set and forget method of carbing (put on serving pressure and leave it be for 1-3 weeks) is the most hassle free version. The higher pressure and shake and bake (chill keg, put on pressure and shake the crap out of the keg) are inconsistent and easy to overcarbonate which is annoying.
- Kegging is addictive. Plan on buying/acquiring more kegs. The darn things tend to multiply faster than bottles do.
- Dessicant, buy a rechargable dessicant device or a bunch of damprid. Use it.
If I think of anything else I will add it.
- 10-12 foot of 3/16 id lines will save you from the obligatory "FOAMY KEG HALLLLP" post.
- Buy quality taps\shanks. It will save you money and trouble in the long run. (Forward sealing is really nice, as is full stainless steel)
- Tap condoms or plugs aren't a bad investment. It is also funny to watch when people forget to take them off when they pour a beer.
- Brew often, have at least one keg as backup. Kegs are fickle and blow at inopportune times. The keg you really want to kick will last forever, the one you want to stretch will kick quick. CO2 tanks also tend to run out at bad times, and most people lose at least one tank of CO2 to leaks. Having a spare(or a keg charger) is not necessarily a bad thing.
- I put in a spare gas line in my keezer for carbonation while the others are dispensing. It is nice to have a keg ready to be swapped in and quick.
- Clean your kegs well, replace the O-rings, make sure you test for leaks and get a good seal.
- If you are building a kegerator/keezer, tape your temp probe to the fullest keg, or submerge in a liquid, your compressor will kick in less often and prolong the life of your -ator.
- The set and forget method of carbing (put on serving pressure and leave it be for 1-3 weeks) is the most hassle free version. The higher pressure and shake and bake (chill keg, put on pressure and shake the crap out of the keg) are inconsistent and easy to overcarbonate which is annoying.
- Kegging is addictive. Plan on buying/acquiring more kegs. The darn things tend to multiply faster than bottles do.
- Dessicant, buy a rechargable dessicant device or a bunch of damprid. Use it.
If I think of anything else I will add it.
