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It looks similar to the one I purchased a few years ago. I love mine. If it is like mine I can fit 2 corny kegs plus a 1/4 commercial keg at the same time.

2 things I would do first is increase the beverage line to about 10ft for each tap. Then add a small computer fan to blow cold air up into the tower. These two things will help with foaming issues.


Sent from my kegerator
 
It looks like mine as well. I agree with the longer lines. Not sure why they ship with such short lines. One other thing is the taps themselves. I find if I don't use it for a couple days the handles are tough to pull. I read that there are some that won't do this. I hit it with a spray of starsan and it works fine so I don't think I will be replacing them.
 
MustGoFast said:
What did you power the fan off?
Click to expand...


Mine is powered from a 110v plug. I have the fan in a project box up against the cold plate. The fan sucks up the coldest air and blows it through a tube up into the tower. Keeps the taps nice and cold.

I forgot about the tap handles sticking. I actually broke a handle a few weeks ago because it was stuck. I ordered some perilick taps and have really liked them.


Sent from my kegerator
 
I was going to buy this exact one but changed my mind when I read about how noisy it was. I also talked to the customer service guy and directed me to the Kegco K209B and bought it about 3 months ago and it's awesome and very quite. I also ended up changing my taps to perlick because yes the ones it came with would stick after a day of not using it. If I were you I would buy the Kegco K209B you can upgrade your purchase with perlicks.
 
Rockn_M said:
Mine is powered from a 110v plug. I have the fan in a project box up against the cold plate. The fan sucks up the coldest air and blows it through a tube up into the tower. Keeps the taps nice and cold.

I forgot about the tap handles sticking. I actually broke a handle a few weeks ago because it was stuck. I ordered some perilick taps and have really liked them.


Sent from my kegerator
Click to expand...

Did you have to run a new power line through a new hole in the fridge? Did you tap power inside? Care to show a picture... I'm a little confused how you got new power to the fan.

I'm ok with the popping as I found the keys to putting some rubber washers between the cold plate and backing.
 
rasteca said:
I was going to buy this exact one but changed my mind when I read about how noisy it was. I also talked to the customer service guy and directed me to the Kegco K209B and bought it about 3 months ago and it's awesome and very quite. I also ended up changing my taps to perlick because yes the ones it came with would stick after a day of not using it. If I were you I would buy the Kegco K209B you can upgrade your purchase with perlicks.
Click to expand...

It seems like the 199 & 209 are the same model in different sizes with the 209 accommodating a 3rd homebrew keg. The 209 also gets a small plastic drip tray built in as apposed to surfaced. I'm not seeing any other hardware differences, and don't need the 3rd space so I'll probably go with the smaller/cheaper unit.
 
MustGoFast said:
Did you have to run a new power line through a new hole in the fridge? Did you tap power inside? Care to show a picture... I'm a little confused how you got new power to the fan.

I'm ok with the popping as I found the keys to putting some rubber washers between the cold plate and backing.
Click to expand...

I'm at work right now but this is close to what I did. http://www.ebay.com/itm/COLDTOWER-K...573?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e8addf7c5

The cord is small enough to fit through the door without causing any issues. I believe there is a plug in the back that you can run the cord through as well.
 
I have this triple tap one: http://www.beveragefactory.com/draf...or/Kegco_K309B-3_Triple_Faucet_Kegerator.html

I really love it, been working out awesome. I too swapped out to Perlick's (was a good decision) and I swapped out to Ultra Barrier Silver beer lines (12' each line) http://morebeer.com/products/ultra-...crobial-pvc-free-beer-tubing-316-id-foot.html since I was getting a nasty plastic taste from the original vinyl beer line. I also highly recommend just getting beer tubing to begin with since swapping out beer lines is a real pain.


Rev.
 
Rev - I was thinking of purchasing the K209B-3.
1. Are you saying I should purchase the beer lines you recommend and install them when the keg arrives?
2. What is the advantage of Perlick's?

Thanks for your help,

Josh
 
I'm merely recommending avoiding being disappointed if you find a nasty plastic taste in the first bit of beer that has been sitting in the lines. For me it only took a little over an hour to take on that nasty taste. I didn't think plastic flavor leeching like such could be possible but sure enough there are very many threads and posts on it. For the difference in price IMO it's worth it to go with better beer lines to start rather than start kegging and have to pay again later and work on changing the lines.

As for the perlicks, they are a front sealing tap so they won't stick. Regular taps allow beer to coat the moving mechanism and if you don't open the tap in a couple of days that little bit of beer has dried and forms like a glue that sticks the faucet and makes them hard to open.

Rev.
 
Now the interesting question.. anyone have a coupon code for beverage factory.. can't fault a man for wanting a deal... and damn $99 shipping hurts...
 
MustGoFast said:
Now the interesting question.. anyone have a coupon code for beverage factory.. can't fault a man for wanting a deal... and damn $99 shipping hurts...
Click to expand...

Go to their website on a different browser or computer or wait a day and it should offer you an E-Card for 10 bucks when you give them your email, I have 3 email addresses and kept getting new ones. Customer Service is awesome just call them and give them a sob story like "is it possible to lower the cost on shipping?'' That's what I did and they shipped mine for $50 along with the E-Card. I think the guys name is Keri. Good Luck!
 
Newb BeerLine Question, but why 12' each line, someone else recommended 10', I see they come with 5'. Why would you want all the extra lines hanging around in the fridge?
Or were you saying buy 12' as the link itself recommends an ideal length of 6' per line for tyipcal homebrew pressure.

PPS - Kegerator ordered, Kegs on the way and a couple batches of beer getting conceived... My wife is making me do a light for some of her friends and I'm thinking of a Pliney Clone for myself.
 
MustGoFast said:
Why would you want all the extra lines hanging around in the fridge?
Or were you saying buy 12' as the link itself recommends an ideal length of 6' per line for tyipcal homebrew pressure.
Click to expand...

Because 12 feet of line provides good flow resistance for the large gamut of pressures one would use for all beer styles. Why do these companies recommend 5-6 foot lines? I don't know exactly but it's wrong, and as a result that is why there are a bazillion threads about excessive foaming where the fix is longer lines. It's simple math really, all about flow resistance. As for excess line, we all simply coil it and zip tie or twisty tie the loops so it really doesn't take any more space. The line just sits neatly coiled on top of each keg.


Rev.
 
Did you see the article on more beer in the link saying for the recommended line its pressure would optimally balance at 6'? The science there seems sound....
 
MustGoFast said:
Did you see the article on more beer in the link saying for the recommended line its pressure would optimally balance at 6'? The science there seems sound....
Click to expand...

Actually, the "science" is a fail.

Because it's based on the same error that has been parotted by nearly everyone - that a 3/16" ID line provides 2 to 3 psi of resistance per linear foot. It does - but at a rate of flow well in excess of anything approaching ideal.

It is that single simple misinterpretation of manufacturer specs that keeps this forum chock full of "Foamy Pour" threads...

Cheers!
 
Going to trust the articles, ordered 20' to set up the lines and ready to go. Hopefully have everything connected next weekend.
 
Boom! Delivery driver left a few minutes ago, I'm now the proud owner of a couple of big boxes. Hopefully all my little stuff arrives this week and I can do a full set up this weekend!
 
MustGoFast said:
Boom! Delivery driver left a few minutes ago, I'm now the proud owner of a couple of big boxes. Hopefully all my little stuff arrives this week and I can do a full set up this weekend!
Click to expand...

What kind of beer line did you end up going with?


Rev.
 
I've had the 309 since August and love it. Absolutely no issues with popping sounds, which I was a little nervous about.

I will say that they ****ed up the shipping. They sent me the completely wrong kegerator - it belonged to some guy in the next state over. Meanwhile, mine had never left the factory. They fixed it, of course, but it took an extra week.
 
Ilan34 said:
I've had the 309 since August and love it. Absolutely no issues with popping sounds, which I was a little nervous about.
Click to expand...

I've got the 309 too, love it! Let me ask, what issues did you hear about popping? The manual did mention popping as being a normal sound coming from the coolant settling upon first use or something to that effect. I haven't heard any loud popping noises but being a refrigeration unit there are very low sounds that are similar (like fluid moving sounds), but as mentioned they are normal and can be observed with all refrigeration units, even air conditioners. Mine is rather quiet, though I can hear when it kicks on, not that it's an issue in any way at all, just a low level hum that it's working :)


Rev.
 
Googling reviews of the 309 turned up multiple people having the issue with loud popping. I don't think it was quite gunshot loud, but startling all the same. Mine just makes the run of the mill fridge sounds. It sits on our porch anyway so I don't hear it most of the time.
 
It looks like they added spacers between the cooling plate and the back wall since those original reports

I bought some to add then found there already was some
 
MustGoFast said:
It looks like they added spacers between the cooling plate and the back wall since those original reports

I bought some to add then found there already was some
Click to expand...

Interesting to know. I'm guessing mine has them too since I don't hear any popping noises coming from mine, and it's in the kitchen so if there were noises I'm sure I'd hear them as our bedroom is the next room over. So you never answered, what tubing did you go with?


Rev.
 
Rev2010 said:
So you never answered, what tubing did you go with?

Rev.
Click to expand...

Sorry, missed the question. I bought the recommended PVC free stuff from the first page - got 21 feet, now trying to figure out how to get the pre installed tubing off of the connectors on the inside of my tower.. It's clear I don't know much yet :) (there's another thread about that)
 
Awesome, you're gonna love the tubing. Ever since I switched I have no off tastes/smells. As far as removing the current tubing, I used a pair of those cinching pliers, the ones that are narrow tipped with the adjustable screw on the handle end, to grab hold of the brass nut and turn. Worked better than everything else I tried since the space is so narrow. After that you have to get off the Oetiker clamps. You can use a small flat head screwdriver to lift the end until you can grab it with pliers and peel it up and open. Be sure to use clamps again. Worm clamps will do but can loosen over time so Oetiker clamps are still the best choice as they are permanent.


Rev.
 

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