Keezer under bar top

[mmcguire]

Hello all, I am currently finishing half my basement ( at Spackle sanding point ugh) and am planning on building a bar very similar to the one in the "basement bar build thread" (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=596537&page=7) I do not have a wall that I can put my Keezer behind and run tap lines through the wall so will need to have the keezer below the bar. Would like taps mounted on top of bar like normal bar.

What I am trying to figure out is how to fit a freezer like the Hair 7.1 below the bar top but still be able to open and access/change kegs. Been thinking of several options but looking for suggestions from you knowledgeable folks. With cooler being 35" tall and standard bar top 42" don't think that leaves enough space to lift lid and change kegs.
What options I am thinking currently are;
1. Have cooler lid as a lift off instead of hinged.
2. Have cooler on dollies to be able to roll back to open and change kegs.
3. Have part of bar top hinged/removable to be able to access cooler.


Am looking for any other suggestions or if any one has examples of anything like this they could share. Have not seen any done this way in threads I have been reading though.

Thanks for any thoughts... will be sure to share my progress of my build.

 

[bonsai4tim]

I did the bar top hinged, worked fairly well. You have to make a new top with wood+insulation (1 inch insulation sandwiched between 1/4 plywood and the top) to go on top of the collar instead of using the original lid, works really well. Always surprised visitors when I lift up the top, because it doesn't look like a cooler.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7808538&postcount=6430

The "bar top" is actually seperate from the covers for the cooler, and screwed onto them, I can post more photo's if you want.

 

[chester2008]

My plan is to make the keezer (mines a 7.1 CFT) into a really large drawer that rolls out from under the counter top to change out kegs. I'll insulate the underside of counter top and remove the stock lid. I'll put cabinet door panels on the front of it so it blends into the rest of cabinets. I'm still in the planning mode though so no pictures.

 

[meatcleaver]

why not a coffin keezer where the top sits flush with your bartop? I've seen some that look like standalone bars all by themselves.

 

[jmark]

I gave up on the idea when we finished our basement... put in a 3 keg kegerator instead... moved the keezer to a back room and repurposed it for storage/lagering.

 

[mmcguire]

why not a coffin keezer where the top sits flush with your bartop? I've seen some that look like standalone bars all by themselves.

the coffin Keezer is like bonsai4tim showed correct? or is the coffin keezer something different in a way?

Bonsai did you need the collar to fit everything or you just added it to reach the height you wanted for the top?

 

[stee6043]

I battled with this same issue. I ended up buying a glass door mini-fridge and built a box off the front. This allowed me 3+ kegs of space without needing to access it from the top. This is not the cheapest solution nor is it the most efficient (electric). But I couldn't make my setup work with a freezer no matter what I did with it.

 

[stee6043]

This one shows a bit better how it fits under the bartop.

 

[mmcguire]

What size was the original fridge? did you build a box that basically doubled the size?

I like how you used the black pipe. I just did several wall shelves and tables around my house using black pipe.

 

[stee6043]

I used this fridge:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MPLYEW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The size of the box I built off the front is basically the size the door could accommodate. I didn't want to go too large and have problems with cooling. With what you see there I can fit 4 kegs in but it's not the easiest to maintain. With 3 kegs you can manage the in/out without much pain. With 4 in there you've got to deal with a lot of moving around when the back one goes empty. It's the price you pay to avoid top-side access I suppose.

 

[SCfb75]

I had the same problem you have. My solution was to build a frame out of angle iron for the freezer to sit on and attached four appliance rollers to pull the freezer out from under the bar. I removed the lid and used pink board insulation to create a seal between the freezer and bar top. These are the best pictures I had right now at work. I can take others if you have any questions.

 

[max384]

Hello all, I am currently finishing half my basement ( at Spackle sanding point ugh) and am planning on building a bar very similar to the one in the "basement bar build thread" (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=596537&page=7) I do not have a wall that I can put my Keezer behind and run tap lines through the wall so will need to have the keezer below the bar. Would like taps mounted on top of bar like normal bar.

What I am trying to figure out is how to fit a freezer like the Hair 7.1 below the bar top but still be able to open and access/change kegs. Been thinking of several options but looking for suggestions from you knowledgeable folks. With cooler being 35" tall and standard bar top 42" don't think that leaves enough space to lift lid and change kegs.
What options I am thinking currently are;
1. Have cooler lid as a lift off instead of hinged.
2. Have cooler on dollies to be able to roll back to open and change kegs.
3. Have part of bar top hinged/removable to be able to access cooler.


Am looking for any other suggestions or if any one has examples of anything like this they could share. Have not seen any done this way in threads I have been reading though.

Thanks for any thoughts... will be sure to share my progress of my build.

Another option would be a glycol chilled long run. It's very common in the commercial setting to have runs of 50, or even 100' or longer. A glycol chiller doesn't have to be elaborate and expensive. It can be as simple as an aquarium/fountain pump that brings a water and glycol mixture from a tupperware tub in a temp controlled freezer.

If it were me, I'd rather go this route, if feasible, than trying to have a roll out and/or hinged bar top. YMMV though.

Good luck. Make sure to post a link to your build thread here so we can follow along.

 

[mmcguire]

I had the same problem you have. My solution was to build a frame out of angle iron for the freezer to sit on and attached four appliance rollers to pull the freezer out from under the bar. I removed the lid and used pink board insulation to create a seal between the freezer and bar top. These are the best pictures I had right now at work. I can take others if you have any questions.

After talking to others about bar designs I think I decided to have it roll out.. Unfortunately I do not have another space to have the freezer located besides under the bar top... Other side of the wall is my wood shop that already it lacking in needed space.

SCfb75m why did you decide to have it seal to the bar top? So you didn't have to pull it as far out to be able to open the lid? If you have any more close up pictures of how it all seals I would be interested to see.


Planning on picking up a Haier 7.1 this weekend I am looking at 4 tap kegorator kits now, to get the parts to get this project moving... Just got floors down in the basement so now can start onto this project.

Anyone have a recommendation on best source for Kegorator parts kits? Or any add-on/upgrade I should be sure to add?

Thanks!

 

[SCfb75]

I had it seal to the bar top first to reduce the height of the counter to standard counter top height. Also if would have left the top on the lines to the towers would have to run through a hole in the top, i didn't want to have to worry about pinching a line or cutting it on the sharp edges. It also helps to reduce foaming when pouring the first beer. Ill take some pictures of the seal and post them tomorrow.