Keezer questions

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msehler

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I'm working on "refining" my keezer from a freezer with STC-1000 temp controller and cobra picnic taps to a collared keezer on casters with perlicks and had a few questions when looking through these keezer builds.

1.) Is there a decent way to mount a 20lb CO2 tank externally, hung from a collar (if the collar doesn't move with the lid)? I'm trying to figure out if I can mount the casters to the freezer, of if I need to (over) build a "rolling rack" with enough depth on the back to accommodate support for the CO2 tank.

2.) It seems most people line their collars with foam to help maintain temperatures. It also seems most people run the nut on their shank down to the wood collar instead of the foam. Is this for support of the faucet? I'd like to be able to put the nut down on the foam to maintain better insulation, but not if the faucet will be moving all over the place.

3.) I've spent more time trying to research the other two questions I had, but since I'm posting I'll ask this: what's the preferred method to mount a collar (that doesn't move with the lid) to the freezer that isn't permanent? Silicone? Weather stripping?

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
1) I would make a little platform for it to sit on and then use a strap to secure it across. I would recommend a base with caster as opposed to directly to the freezer. Do you plan on framing out the whole thing? If so, you could also add enough space to store the tank on the side.

2) I have not gotten my shanks in yet, but I was going to tighten mine down to the foam. Mainly because I didn't consider it before building the keezer, but I don't see why it will be an issue with rigid foam.

3) I think I may have used liquid nails, but I would think any silicone adhesive would work as well.
 
1.) I do NOT plan on framing out the whole thing (otherwise I would build the tank to the side as suggested). On this build, I'm storing it in an odd spot in my garage where vertical clearance is a concern. The more I minimize my increase in height for the casters, the more I can maximize the height on the collar.

2.) I agreed and didn't know why it would be an issue with rigid foam, but everyone seems to run the nut down to the wood itself.
 
Could get a sheet of 3/4 plywood or something that you could set it on and put the casters on that. Wouldn't add a lot of height and you wouldn't have to put the casters directly on it. Not much choice for the shanks for me, just hoping for the best. I'm sure to the wood is a better option, but oh well.
 
I drop set the wheels on mine to keep the height down

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The foam won't hold up to the pull you have on the tap handle the foam will start to compress and the shanks will come loose a short piece of pvc pipe between the nut and the wood will solve your problem.
 
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