Keezer, no collar build by a Ga Hillbilly

[Dawai]

Craigslist $75 freezer, with Help here figuring out the STC1000 I changed the thermostat. Stuck my 2 corny kegs in, chilled them, one keg is close to ripe and I've only drank half of it now.

Lid, I had a few pieces of Mirror stainless, was supposed to be motel-prison saftey mirrors. This was my last non-fubarred up sheet. (one shot hit or miss)

I got a good measurement on the freezer lid, laid it out, a 1 3/4" thick, 1/4 break over hemming it onto the lid, figured out the faucet hole locations and how I will route them in. laid it all out with a sharpie on the sheet of stainless, clamped a 4 foot ruler to it and scribed the lines with a plasma cutter.

THEN thought, I don't want it to be plain, so I loaded the roller skate wheel under a tipping wheel on the C-press and rolled some "random" beads on it. NOW, I wish I had rolled a bead all the way around to hold any spills on top.. but.. hindsight is..

Took it over to the 6 foot gutter break, broke the side lines but could not fold them up (not a box break) and had to hand fold the lines-edges over.. Break is so nasty from being in my fab shop I needed spraying off with a hose yesterday.

This morning 7am, I took it to the yard, a temporary plant potting table made from blocks, laid a carpet from the porch on it, hemmed the sides and 1/4" breaks in by hand. (advil tonight).

THEN, had to plasma slot where the hinges attach, drill (thanks to HBTalk) the 7/8" holes for the as not-yet UPS delivered Perlick faucets and close-tower shanks from Adventures in Homebrewing. (on UPS truck for delivery today) as if I am not anxious enough to get it completed.

As soon as the faucets are in place, I will drill a perimeter of screw holes to attach it permenantly to the lid. Sensor hole is on the back of the lid, Co2 hole in back, two faucet holes currently drilled..

Tis where I am at.. I am thinking of Black and flaming it with true fire like I did the old bike, and these Christmas gift pedal cars.. it is right there close by the air brush.

I got near $100 in the freezer now, not counting the taps, lines, Co2 tank, regulator and corny kegs, I've lost track of all that.

The faucets and hoses are 3.8lbs shipping weight, the metal cap is about four lbs or so. I don't think I've overloaded the hinges yet.. thou I will need to build some kind of handle so my wife don't use the tap faucets as grabs.. It is "STIFF".. with the extra edges broke all around it adds a lot of strength.

When the protective film came off, I near needed sunglasses in the basement.

 

[Dawai]

MOre pictures.. of the completed flames on 2 of the cars. AND the plasma "ruler" saw cutting trick I've been doing since the 80s.. (when plasma first came out in the fab shops)

 

[Dawai]

I bought "beer shanks" for a tower, thinking the threads were "short" and it would not extend very far into the lid. That was a small mistake, it should have been longer shanks and a " home made spacer" collar to get the "nut" back out of the folded over lid-channel where I can tighten it properly. Something with about two inches of threads or so. I can not get anything in there other than a finger to tighten it up properly. Perhaps some curved needle nose might get it tighter, but will not be right still.

I got the one on the left in allright, hooked up the quick connects and the gas, pulled two glasses off the "Foamy chocolate-coffee stout" and then went to put in the right hand tap. I do have to admit it is better than the ball valve I had on there before, thou I need to learn how to tune it for less foam.

Right hole, A piece of metal as the hole saw went through folded over a lip, Have to figure some way of trimming it down.. up in the hole. All I can come up with is a dremel tool and cut off wheel?? The stainless, I bumped it with a sanding lap pad. So the fold must be the "aluminum?" freezer lid when I actually drilled the cover and lid together.

There was water in the bottom of the freezer, I took a chance and drilled a hole. I didn't hit a coolant line this time. (IS there lines in the bottom floor?) BUT.. there is no external coils like a refrigerator, the external coils must be on the outside of the insulation somewhere, and the coolant lines on the inside?? you can leave the lid open and see the frost marks on the inside, but would have no way of seeing the "hot coils" on the outside??? There was a plug on the back side, I pulled it out, was digging out a section of foam carefully, then realized I was "under" the inner box and it was no help. It needs a drain. (or a bilge pump)

It's running, not painted yet, There was some stickers I spent a hour or so on last night scraping. Not sure if I can bump sand the metal either? it has a texture. I may go back to the "Printed vinyl decal wrap" idea.. thou that will be pricy. They used to get 4 grand to do a race car. I made "film" decals once from pictures.. those were a pain in the butt, had to pop bubbles with a pin, then clear coat them over. They yellow real bad in sunlight.. not that I am putting this outside any time soon.

 

[Rivenin]

Looking good! those little pedal cars are badass

 

[Dawai]

those little pedal cars are badass

Shame is.. I painted the Roadking first, the pedal cars came out better than "my toy". As I continue to learn, on the days I can see, on the days I feel like messing with it.
I got this keg-cooker housing, and the great flat keezer front sitting there just taunting me.

THE straight "beer shanks" are in the UPS route here. I will have to cut spacers to get the nut out of behind the lip on the lid.

It needs a back-splash and a drip pan. (there is sure a lot of empty space inside too).

I ended up with a Co2 gas leak, lost part of my tank. It was the release-pressure valve on the keg. I blipped it a few times and it sealed.

One day at a time. Got to put my keg-cooker back together too. (maybe today)

 

[Dawai]

Replaced the TOWER shanks with straight 4 1/2" shanks, nipple ends.. USED a piece of 1" pvc conduit to space the nut out where it would come from behind the rolled edge on the lid and I could get a wrench on it. As I tightened it up, it forced the stainless lid down flush. GOOD Thing I put my faucets on before riveting or screwing the lid down all the way around.

Used the "hair drier" for stretching the 3/16ths thick wall pvc hose to fit onto the 1/4" nipples. It won't come off easily, I had to cut the ones off the tower shanks.

I bought a wrench to tighten the faucets.. well worth the few dollars.

MIXED bag? well I had to use the smaller flange covers off the tower shanks on the straight shanks.. the straight ones had a larger diameter flange than the lid was thick. More hillbilly engineering.

I need a T-for my gas line to split the connectors for the corny kegs, may run to Ace hardware here in a bit, except my bulldog has found "something" in the basement he wants.. whimpering and looking under a desk in the corner.. and I know better to leave him unsupervised when he is like that.. HIS predecessor pulled all the wires out of my bridgeport cnc.. about a hundred and fifty wires.. I think he too was after a mouse. One of these dogs will destroy a $1500 sofa to get one skittle.... Smart, and stubborn thou, why I love em.

 

[naga77777]

Lookin' good!

I wanna see the road king. Please post a pic here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f45/motorcycle-fanatics-show-your-ride-s-56485/

 

[Stealthcruiser]

I like the spigots in the lid like that!

 

[Dawai]

We have blackness. Rustoleum appliance paint, it didn't want to take in several places. THINGS spilt on it over the years perhaps? I am waiting to see if it "takes" and bonds in. I washed it as good as I could with the rough texture of the metal.

Need a backsplash real bad, I'm thinking a Mirror stainless one with a square container w a drip tube, stand.. and hooks to the lid to remove quickly.

The bulldog is really enjoying the 5 gallon bucket I have under it currently, thou.. I just emptied my last keg of homebrew into bottles.. raised the temp up to 22 degr C. Sat in my two fermenting jugs. (don't have any beer to CO2 or cool)