Keezer build

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gcdowd

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I knew there are numerous threads on a keezer build but I figured I'd post my questions here anyway. My kegerator is dying and I've decided to build a keezer. One question I had was, is a collar necessary? Seems easier to drill the shank holes into wood but will the top of the chest freezer "seal" on top of the wood? I'm worried about temp loss. I want to do four taps, but still need to size the freezer. Would 7 cubic feet be sufficient? I'm sure I'll have more questions but I value the input of this forum. Thanks in advance
 
I have a 7ft with 2x8 collar. It comfortably fits 3 cornys and a 10lb aluminum CO2 tank. I could maybe do four, but it would be a real squeeze and I find that having 3 taps fits my needs nicely.

Not only does a wooden collar give you the extra height that you need/want, it gives you something to drill holes through for your faucet shanks. My collar is glued to the freezer body. The lid gasket seals around the top of the collar just fine. I paid extra attention to making it smooth and even for that reason.

Here's the finished product. I have since hard-wired the STC-1000 and it's now mounted on the back edge of the lid.


handleson_zpsd8d6d2ad.jpg
 
Nice looking setup. I also have a 10 lb tank, and would be willing to move to 3 kegs. Do you screw the lid back onto the back in the original holes, plus another in the wood?
 
For me, I put a 1x6 cedar collar on my 7 cu ft keezer. The lid is secured to the collar with liquid nails, so the collar lifts with the lid. This makes it easier for me to lift full kegs into the keezer. I have 4 kegs on the floor and a 10# co2 tank on the hump. I think I can fit a 5th keg on the hump to carbonate it, but I haven't tried yet.

image-156902066.jpg
 
Nice looking setup. I also have a 10 lb tank, and would be willing to move to 3 kegs. Do you screw the lid back onto the back in the original holes, plus another in the wood?

On mine the hinges go on the collar and the lid.

On the setup huhwha built, his hinges are on the body of the freezer and the collar.

Nice job on that huhwha.
 
On mine the hinges go on the collar and the lid.

On the setup huhwha built, his hinges are on the body of the freezer and the collar.

Nice job on that huhwha.

Ok, seems reasonable.

The only problem with huhwha's keezer is that 3 out of 4 taps are dry. Blasphemy!
 
gcdowd said:
Ok, seems reasonable.

The only problem with huhwha's keezer is that 3 out of 4 taps are dry. Blasphemy!

No kidding! 2 out of 3 are carbing up. I also have a Surly Furious clone in the primary. I will say that keeping 4 taps running is hard work!
 
I also have little to no experience with electrical wiring, but just bought the ETC 111000 and found it easy to wire. There are several good instructional videos on Youtube that clearly show what goes where.
 
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These links and the vid are for making a controller outlet box with it, but all you have to change is that you connect up the freezer's hot and common wires in place of the wires that would go to the "cool" outlet.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-fish-tank-controller-build-using-wal-mart-parts-261506/

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-build-163849/

Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7I-iwFLykxs

By common wire, do you mean neutral?
 
Here are some pics of my chest freezer. As you can maybe see, the top kinda tapers off. Will that be an issue if I mount a collar?

ForumRunner_20130711_203159.jpg


ForumRunner_20130711_203209.jpg
 
Here are some pics of my chest freezer. As you can maybe see, the top kinda tapers off. Will that be an issue if I mount a collar?

You should be fine if you measure and cut the boards so that they match up with the lid gasket when you close the lid.
 
Another thing is, the lid is on top, not on the front. cold air settles to the bottom. I have a big ole ugly keezer in my garage and it hardly runs (as in, constantly trying to stay cool), so I think you'll be alright as far as getting a good enough seal with the lid goes.

20130320_185103_zps94d03010.jpg
 
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