Keeping an NEIPA an NEIPA

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KarmaCitra

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So about a month ago, I tried my hand at a NEIPA. 35% flaked wheat, added hops two days into fermentation, etc, and beer was hazy af. Now a month later, it's almost crystal clear. What happened?
 
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My guess is your protein content was too high. 35% unmalted wheat is a lot! The proteins bonded to polyphenols causing your initial haze but you had so much in suspension, it just dropped out.

One of the trickiest parts of the style is finding the right balance with the haze. As counterintuitive as it might sound, a kettle fining might have helped here to drop some of those proteins out before you transferred to the fermenter.

Did it take the juicy goodness along with it or are you still enjoying the beer?
 
My guess is your protein content was too high. 35% unmalted wheat is a lot! The proteins bonded to polyphenols causing your initial haze but you had so much in suspension, it just dropped out.

One of the trickiest parts of the style is finding the right balance with the haze. As counterintuitive as it might sound, a kettle fining might have helped here to drop some of those proteins out before you transferred to the fermenter.

Did it take the juicy goodness along with it or are you still enjoying the beer?
It did take some with it, unfortunately. :(
 
So about a month ago, I tried my hand at a NEIPA. 35% flaked wheat, added hops two days into fermentation, etc, and beer was hazy af. Now a month later, it's almost crystal clear. What happened?
The idea behind a 'lasting haze' is creating a permanent chill haze in your beer. I stopped adding bittering hops to the boil and replaced them with whirlpool hop additions added at flameout until the wort cooled to ~170F [~77C]. Then adding a large amount of dry hops to the fermenter 2 days into primary fermentation.
 
The idea behind a 'lasting haze' is creating a permanent chill haze in your beer. I stopped adding bittering hops to the boil and replaced them with whirlpool hop additions added at flameout until the wort cooled to ~170F [~77C]. Then adding a large amount of dry hops to the fermenter 2 days into primary fermentation.
Yeah, I did add hops during the boil. Huge flameout and dry hop charges though. I'm going to give this another go.
 
Then adding a large amount of dry hops to the fermenter 2 days into primary fermentation.

This created the longest lasting haze I've encountered so far. Going on 3 months now in the keg and still very light scattering.

I agree with the comments above about the flaked wheat and ended up splitting my wheat as half flaked and half malted. I also did not get the right mouthfeel until I added around 10%+ flaked oats.
 
My guess is your protein content was too high. 35% unmalted wheat is a lot! The proteins bonded to polyphenols causing your initial haze but you had so much in suspension, it just dropped out.

One of the trickiest parts of the style is finding the right balance with the haze. As counterintuitive as it might sound, a kettle fining might have helped here to drop some of those proteins out before you transferred to the fermenter.

Did it take the juicy goodness along with it or are you still enjoying the beer?

+1 to kettle fining

Even with my NEIPAs I add half a tablet of whirlfloc. I've had haze until the keg was kicked. sometimes even almost two months if not drinking it fast enough.
 
some of these super hoppy IPAs clear up faster than others. Sometimes its hard to associate with anything in particular. Some hops just don't seem to produce as much haze. Galaxy is a known haze monster. Some yeasts clear faster. 1318 is a known haze bomb. Conan can clear up faster depending. Is there beer less delicious or do you just want haze?

ekuanot was a pretty good haze bomb hop when i used it in a hopstanded pils. maybe it was your yeast.
 
I've started using 90/10 pilsner/flaked barley on mine and they have a nice haze
 
I've started using 90/10 pilsner/flaked barley on mine and they have a nice haze

i've been interested in trying a pils ipa. what brand of pils malt? do you do a hop stand? how long? how long is your boil? i've done a 15 min hopstand with a 60 min boil with weyermann pils and not noticed dms, but i am worried to push it too far. i'm not uber sensitive to dms though.
 
i've been interested in trying a pils ipa. what brand of pils malt? do you do a hop stand? how long? how long is your boil? i've done a 15 min hopstand with a 60 min boil with weyermann pils and not noticed dms, but i am worried to push it too far. i'm not uber sensitive to dms though.
Avangard pils, and I do a 60 minute boil, all hops (7 oz) in the whirlpool (summit, azacca, citra, el dorado in my last one) then 5 oz dry hop on day 3 for 6 days, transfer to keg and keg prime.

I use pilsner for all my beers since I brew mostly saison and have done no boil, 15 minute, 30 minute, 1 hour, 2 hour boils and never had any kind of issue
 
Something I have been doing lately is to ferment in my corny keg and carbonate by spunding. then, use the clear beer draught system to transfer to a purged serving keg (using CO2 from the fermentation to purge it) once it has chilled a few days to a week. Then, every time I go to draw a pint off of the serving keg, I do a quick flip of the keg. Pull it up out of the keezer, drop the top down over the edge so it all mixes up and then put it back in the keezer. you can then let it rest 10-30 mins if you want or just pull a pint right away (if you don't mind a few hop particles in your beer.) This often results in much better hopbomb beers to my taste. No matter how good you are with oxygen control and everything else, eventually the hoppy deliciousness will drop out of suspension. It's like rolling around a can of NEIPA before pouring to make sure you get that tasty hop haze. Sounds crazy, but it really does work.
 
Something I have been doing lately is to ferment in my corny keg and carbonate by spunding. then, use the clear beer draught system to transfer to a purged serving keg

.....duh.... why didn't I think of this..... I have been fermenting in kegs with bent dip tubes, etc. for the past year +/spunding, etc. Never thought about using the Clear Bear system in place of the dip tube though for transfer. That is a great idea. I have 2 of those systems I use for serving lagers and similar beers. Might have to get a couple more!
 
.....duh.... why didn't I think of this..... I have been fermenting in kegs with bent dip tubes, etc. for the past year +/spunding, etc. Never thought about using the Clear Bear system in place of the dip tube though for transfer. That is a great idea. I have 2 of those systems I use for serving lagers and similar beers. Might have to get a couple more!

I went ahead and fitted all my kegs with them. The batches I have going now I'm serving straight from the same kegs I fermented in. Just be sure to get those screens for CBDS.
 
Is this a 10 gallon batch? If so your dry hop amount is way low. Even if its a 5 gallon batch its a bit low. I usually do 8-12 oz dry hop on a 5 gallon batch. Never have an issue with it not being hazy. Also 6 oz of whirlpool hops per 5 gallon. The clearest beer I ever did was same grain bill but only 3 oz whirlpool and 4 oz dry hop. It was pretty clear. I think you need more whirlpool/dry hops.
 
I agree with using more hops, I generally use 2lbs in a 10 gallons batch. I get about 20ibus when the boil starts, then I don't add any till flame out. I use about 15% oats also. Yeast choice can also help. I have been using Voss and Hornindal kvieks. for the last couple and they produce a lot of hazy. I made a standard ipa with those and it never cleared up.
 
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