Just wondering if this is going to be a problem or not. I got this bench style capper for free and want to use it if possible. What it does is put a small circular dent in the center of the cap. It is not very deep though. It is coming from where the bell is pressed on to the geared shaft. Does anyone think it will effect the seal. I would hate to try it and waste some of my first batch.
Issue with capper
- Thread starter jbcavman
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Mine does that. I love it , compared to a hand capper. I figure the dent in the middle bends the cap down after the edges are crimped, thereby forcing the plastic liner to seal tighter to the inner edge of the bottle. I haven't had any sealing probs in 8 batches, umm...400 bottles?
Alx Rains
Well-Known Member
Yeah same here, gives it cute little dimple!
Nice I am glad to here that others are doing the same thing. I've got about 5 days left before bottling. Then the hard parts begins, waiting for it to condition for two weeks. Thanks for the info guys this place is a great source of knowledge.
I have two wing cappers. One leaves the indentation in the cap, the other does not. I prefer the one that DOES leave a mark, for the same reason casebrew states. Plus, the motion of that capper is a lot more fluid... I always think the other one is going to break.
-walker
-walker
The Councilman
Well-Known Member
My capper is very old... form an antique store.
It puts a "dent" or ring on the cap. Now caps without the ring look odd to me.
It puts a "dent" or ring on the cap. Now caps without the ring look odd to me.
What...you mean my capper is not! supposed to leave a ring
Its the mark from the magnet and is technicaly is an inverted dent so to speak as its the mark from the hole left where the magnet is withdrawn from the cap molding as you clamp down.
What...you didnt know there was a magnet in there...most people dont because they are so puny
Its the mark from the magnet and is technicaly is an inverted dent so to speak as its the mark from the hole left where the magnet is withdrawn from the cap molding as you clamp down.
What...you didnt know there was a magnet in there...most people dont because they are so puny
DAAB said:
around here, we'd call that a "bump".
-walker
Spoonta
Well-Known Member
Mine Does It To No Worrys Thow
I just what to say thanks to all that has replied to my thread. I am getting close to bottling my first batch and can't wait to get the next one in the carboy. OG was 1.040 and I am at 1.010, first measure was at 1.015 on day 8 and day 10 was last night and that was 1.010. I am measuring on a every two days and approching two weeks in the carboy. I know that I have read John Palmer's website and he says that it should ferment for at least two weeks or until it reaches a point that it doesn't change reading two days in a row. Am I not doing what my needs me to do, looking for a little more advise. Thanks again for all the info.
KopyKat
Well-Known Member
I posted this on another thread but here it is for you.
It sounds like you have the same problem I had. I bought use equip when I started and I tested the capper and couldn't get it to put a cap on as tight as the hand capper I also got with everything I bought.
I took to capper to my LHBS and nobody could figure out what was wrong. I tried their new ones and they worked much better but still didn't put the cap on as tight as the hand held "Black Beauty" I had.
One day with nothing else to do and I figured nothing else to lose, I decided to take it apart and find out what was wrong. I unscrewed the part that goes over the cap and set it by itself over a cap and tapped it with a hammer lightly - capped perfect. I then screwed it back on tight, then backed it off two turns. What do you know - it capped perfectly.
The other thing I forgot to mention is that a little grease rubbed on the inside of the bell will help smooth out the whole operation.
After experimenting, I found that mine only needed one complete turn loosening to cap perfectly.
It sounds like you have the same problem I had. I bought use equip when I started and I tested the capper and couldn't get it to put a cap on as tight as the hand capper I also got with everything I bought.
I took to capper to my LHBS and nobody could figure out what was wrong. I tried their new ones and they worked much better but still didn't put the cap on as tight as the hand held "Black Beauty" I had.
One day with nothing else to do and I figured nothing else to lose, I decided to take it apart and find out what was wrong. I unscrewed the part that goes over the cap and set it by itself over a cap and tapped it with a hammer lightly - capped perfect. I then screwed it back on tight, then backed it off two turns. What do you know - it capped perfectly.
The other thing I forgot to mention is that a little grease rubbed on the inside of the bell will help smooth out the whole operation.
After experimenting, I found that mine only needed one complete turn loosening to cap perfectly.
Ben25
Well-Known Member
Wow this is an old thread, but here goes.
My agata bench capper made half moon dents in caps, so I unscrewed the bell, and then took out the magnet thing, and then put the bell back on. I just bottled a batch with it and it capped all of them perfectly with no dents.
Has anyone else done this, or am I in some way compromising the seal by removing the part?
The magnet part was useless, and I would just put the caps on the bottles even when it was still installed.
My agata bench capper made half moon dents in caps, so I unscrewed the bell, and then took out the magnet thing, and then put the bell back on. I just bottled a batch with it and it capped all of them perfectly with no dents.
Has anyone else done this, or am I in some way compromising the seal by removing the part?
The magnet part was useless, and I would just put the caps on the bottles even when it was still installed.
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