Isolated Yeast (Tree House): How to Identify and Characterize?

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PaleAleIndian -- Mind sharing your complete water profile including mineral additions and ppm for each?

I picked up some Kcl today and am going to sub it in for most of the CaCl. Just not sure how much to add.

My mash volume for this beer is 6 gallons so based on the equation a few pages back .638 grams should equal around 14ppm chloride in the 6 gallons of mash water. Does that sound accurate?

Also, are you splitting the Kcl in both the mash and kettle? or are you just doing it as a mash addition?
 
PaleAleIndian -- Mind sharing your complete water profile including mineral additions and ppm for each?

I picked up some Kcl today and am going to sub it in for most of the CaCl. Just not sure how much to add.

My mash volume for this beer is 6 gallons so based on the equation a few pages back .638 grams should equal around 14ppm chloride in the 6 gallons of mash water. Does that sound accurate?

Also, are you splitting the Kcl in both the mash and kettle? or are you just doing it as a mash addition?
For sure, yeah. I have to put a disclaimer here though, the only batch I've done this water profile on is still in primary, so I really couldn't tell you yet if it's a step in the right direction.

So the way I usually do it is I try to hit the same mineral profile in my mash and "sparge" water. I say sparge in double quotes because I do BIAB but I don't do full volume mashes. I typically mash at 1.5 qt/lb and then "teabag" my grain bag in my sparge water. I adjust the amount of sparge water to collect enough wort that a 60 min boil will get me to the volume I want to transfer to my fermenter. Then after my "sparge rest" I combine the worts in my kettle and move on to the boil. I guess I sort of think of this as a hybrid of BIAB and a batch sparge. I typically don't make any more mineral additions once the worts are combined.

For this batch, I did 5.3 gal of strike water for the mash. I used 100% local water, which is:

Ca 25 ppm
Mg 8 ppm
Na 5 ppm
Cl 11 ppm
SO4 23 ppm
HCO3 96 ppm

I added 2.6 g gypsum and 8 g KCl to get to:

Ca 55 ppm
Mg 8 ppm
Na 5 ppm
Cl 201 ppm
SO4 96 ppm
HCO3 96 ppm
K 211 ppm

I had 4 gal 100% local water for sparge water and hit the same profile by adding 2.0 g gypsum and 6.1 g KCl.

As usual, I made no mineral additions after combining my mash and sparge worts.

My Excel sheet tells me that 0.638 g KCl in 6 gal of water that has no other Cl content puts you at 13 ppm, so our calcs are in very good agreement.
 
Re: kcl, was going to try this last brew, but tasted it — terrible. Does any of that filter through the process or do the K and the Cl go separate ways during the brewing process. Also — does a beer lower in Ca make for a softer beer, and why?
Did you dose it into a finished beer or try it raw?
I'm kegging a new batch today with KCl, CaSO4, and mash pH of 5.2. Wort was smoother than my high mash pH batch.
 
For this batch, I did 5.3 gal of strike water for the mash. I used 100% local water, which is:

Ca 25 ppm
Mg 8 ppm
Na 5 ppm
Cl 11 ppm
SO4 23 ppm
HCO3 96 ppm

I added 2.6 g gypsum and 8 g KCl to get to:

Ca 55 ppm
Mg 8 ppm
Na 5 ppm
Cl 201 ppm
SO4 96 ppm
HCO3 96 ppm
K 211 ppm

I had 4 gal 100% local water for sparge water and hit the same profile by adding 2.0 g gypsum and 6.1 g KCl.

As usual, I made no mineral additions after combining my mash and sparge worts.

My Excel sheet tells me that 0.638 g KCl in 6 gal of water that has no other Cl content puts you at 13 ppm, so our calcs are in very good agreement.

Do you do acid adjustments with HCO3 that high? What’s your Mash PH look like? Sorry if you posted that before.
 
Do you do acid adjustments with HCO3 that high? What’s your Mash PH look like? Sorry if you posted that before.
No, no worries. Usually I dilute with distilled (up to 75%, never gone 100% RO/distilled), and then make acid adjustments on top of that. I use acidulated malt to adjust and have had predictable results so far.

For my previous NEIPAs I've played with mash pH in a relatively small range, 5.2-5.4.

For this batch i wanted to play with it out of those bounds for some reason, so I didn't dilute or adjust. Ended up at 5.79. I know, makes me squirm too haha.
 
Awesome! Was the new batch an IPA with this yeast blend? If so, was it about the same kettle hopping rate/schedule?
Yep very similar. Same blend ratio, fermented at 62 F. I actually cut the hops in kettle by 1 oz (~20 IBUs) but dry hop is the same. 12 oz total for 6.5 gallons. I just finished kegging and the bitterness is definitely better and doesnt linger. Yeast character is a little more subdued this time but still nice. Grist was 9% spelt and I didnt get anything off putting. I did a second dry hop in the keg, should be tapping it in a week or so. I'll report back then. Also, should be getting some fresh TH after christmas to do another side by side.

I am beginning to wonder about ultra low boil pH (4.7-4.9) to smooth out the bitterness further, maybe diminishing returns beyond 5.2?
 
@ThePaleAleIndian , @Livinon2 any ideas as to whether KCl impacts ph more/less/same as CaCl? And the math on KCl was it that NaCl had 1.267x the Cl right? How much more or less than CaCl? Want to give this a go tomorrow in a beer and want to make sure my numbers are roughly right.
 
Did you dose it into a finished beer or try it raw?
I'm kegging a new batch today with KCl, CaSO4, and mash pH of 5.2. Wort was smoother than my high mash pH batch.
Didn't try in a beer, just put a bit in some warm water and compared it to a glass of water with a bit of NaCl. Definitely preferred the NaCl.
 
@ThePaleAleIndian , @Livinon2 any ideas as to whether KCl impacts ph more/less/same as CaCl? And the math on KCl was it that NaCl had 1.267x the Cl right? How much more or less than CaCl? Want to give this a go tomorrow in a beer and want to make sure my numbers are roughly right.
I'm no expert, but i believe the impact of KCl on pH is negligible. Same with NaCl. As far as I know, CaCl2 will lower pH because of the Ca. I think K and Na are more like SO4 and Cl in that they don't affect pH much. Anecdotally I think my experience supports that, because my batch with KCl had like 200+ ppm K and the mash ph was still 5.79. If i had gotten equivalent Cl from CaCl2, my experience has been that my mash ph is ~0.25 or so lower for the same grist and mash thickness. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong though.
 
Long read, took me a few days!

I had the luck of once getting a couple of cans of treehouse here in spain. Needless to say it changed my life, until i gave up cause i just couldnt get decent hops and they were far too expensive for the crap they were. That changed about 5 or 6 months ago and i have experimented a lot with hop schedules and grain bill until eureka, i started thinking about the yeast. I remember doppelganger being hefeish and i what i previously thought were hop aromas could actually a synergy of the hops with the esters from the yeasts, like in wine esters and phenols complement with aromatic hydrocarbons from different parts of the grape. I made a bunch of research and got same conclusions a lot you fellas have, underpitching and temperature control can really! bring some crazy strong aromas from a beer.
I do something similar to what marshallb does however i have not used fermentis. But im very glad! to have reached part of the conclusion about a hefe yeast :D I definetly need to try with fermentis and the belgian yeast. From an earlier post i remember that some beers do not have all the 4 yeasts in them so it kind of reinforces my idea that a genius beer desgin is about a great balance of all 4 elements of beer water, yeast, hops, grain. Understanding them and controlling them to your desire.
I basically pitch in a 1070ish wort with 9g of london esb (honest to god A beast of a strain and when fermented at high enough temperatures you get a lot of tropical and apple notes, beautiful) and 1g of mangrove jacks bavarian yeast (i have never gotten any spicyness from it even when ferm start temp was low, just pure banana with a background of vanilla) all at once at 23/24 c the closer to 24 the better i find for esters. I then wait until around 50% of og has dropped, usually 24h or less and drop the temperature down to 16/17c. I read that lowering fermentation temp sort of controls the release of esters that would otherwise volatilise if fermentation is allowed to stay vigorous for a long time. Usually dry hop then as well. Wait until final gravity is nearly reached and dry hop with a lot less yeast activity and more alcohols (hopefully potential solvent for essential hop oils). Last dry hop usually 2 days and first 3.
Grain bill is simple as hell, pale ale 95 carafoam 5, If i want murky rather than hazey 90 pale 5 cara 5 oats. I find murky is sometimes really good to get that tropicana no pulp silky juice mouthfeel if you add a **** ton of mosaic in wp and dry hop. though i dont often add oats. I whirlpool at 45C for 30/45 min depending on how bitter its getting.
Until tried all of the above i wasnt getting anything special, i know am very close in terms of mouthfeel and i think the esters are really popping out with the hops. My set experimental hop blend i use is 40 citra 40 amarillo 10 simcoe, seep some of that in 50c water and try it and tell me you dont make all your ipas with that ratio! :p So ye really pasionfruity, peachy, orange type citrus smell, i find hints of a really good fruit shop here in spain those with fruit flies (those are the best) an almost over ripe tuttifruity smell. i think the esters from the mangrove jack just blend with some of the hydrocarbons to give a general background sweetness to the body of the aroma, never got any spicyness from it, or maybe perhaps a slight hint of clove but i think if so it just helps make it fragrant imo. I find simcoe here in spain at least is very resiney but it provides a beautiful pungency that makes the beer stink.
Taste is beautiful, resemlbes the smell but backed by subtle yet complementing sweet maltyness, however it was not intense as i rember doppleganger for instance, maybe its that t58...
I am bottle carbing, and not thought about using a conditioning yeast, but it makes total sense. Need a keg as well, but ive had pretty good results bottling, even better when i started using putting co2 in the bottling bucket, and getting a neigbour to cap as we go hehe. Beers never last longer than 10/12 days and they usually there isnt much of a decline in taste nor aroma.

Im very appreciative of all the input, I will have to try the fermentis yeasts though i find the beers im making excellent theyre not that exagerated in your face like i remember the treehouse julius or doppleganger. Perhaps these yeasts will help me a lot on my quest. Im there in the aromas and taste but i need to amp them up by 60% or more i think. I hnestly think the hops out here are kind of ****, usually use around 400/500 g per 20 liters, tried more but pretty sure it hits diminishing returns much more than that. All wp and dry hop, if i use the amounts a lot of you mention i will get a generic hop aroma without the pronounced notes of each strain, and little to no taste (in comprarisson with treehouse). Ive compensated that by having a sweeter finishing beer and adding no boil hops as well as whpooling at low temp sothat i can add a lot of hops with just the right bitterness.
Ive had good results in mouthfeel with both ratios of chloride to sulfate, though i need to experiment more, and perhaps add more, i keep ppms fairly low, i believe after having read a lot of youses chemistry. I do feel increasing my mash ph, 5.4 helped with mouthfeel and hazeyness when brewing without oats

Im a bit sceptical about giving up these two yeasts but from reading the thread it really seems the t58 gives a nice kick to it! How would you feel about 7/2/1 or 8/2/1 for 1070is? grams that is. With the same method i been going, pitch high temp wait til theyre kinda half way cool them down. Any advices or precautions with these yeast strains? Can they handle 16/15c in case it drops a degree more than normal? Also using a yeast like cdc1 makes perfect sense to combat oxidation and guarantee less degraded product and better carbonation, clever. I honestly thought they all force carbonated but i just love the huge bubbles i get with natural carbonation, theres a god place with new englands where i live and i always think thamn where are those big silky bubbles??

I also plan on ****ing around with pectinase and betaglucosidase see if i can get an extra punch out of the terpene bound glycosides since hops here are kinda mediocre if not bad (at least in comparisson with whats in america).

Late as hell but always glad to find others on a similar quest!

Big love from spain!

(lost sd card with pics :( once i find i shall upload my fav thus far once i find it!)
 
@ThePaleAleIndian , @Livinon2 And the math on KCl was it that NaCl had 1.267x the Cl right? How much more or less than CaCl?

Yeah, my calcs show right around that number, 1 g of NaCl gives you 1.27ish times the Cl that 1 g of KCl would give you. Looks like 1 g of CaCl2 would give you 1.34 times the Cl of 1 g of KCl.

Funny how those factors are about the same. But a quick sanity check shows it's right. It's because Ca is just under twice the molar mass of Na, but because a calcium ion has twice the charge of a sodium, calcium bonds to two chlorides instead of one like sodium. So that factor of 2 cancels and the percentage by weight of Cl in NaCl works out to about the same as the percentage of Cl in CaCl2. Just geeking out here haha.
 
I'm no expert, but i believe the impact of KCl on pH is negligible. Same with NaCl. As far as I know, CaCl2 will lower pH because of the Ca. I think K and Na are more like SO4 and Cl in that they don't affect pH much. Anecdotally I think my experience supports that, because my batch with KCl had like 200+ ppm K and the mash ph was still 5.79. If i had gotten equivalent Cl from CaCl2, my experience has been that my mash ph is ~0.25 or so lower for the same grist and mash thickness. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong though.
Agreed! I made the same assumption as similar to NaCl but didnt measure the pH. First batch was 10 g KCl for 6.5 gallons post boil and second was 12 g KCl for 6.5 gallons post boil.
 
My concern is I can't add the KCl into Beersmith, so even though I can spitball my numbers, my PH prediction according to Beersmith won't be accurate because I won't have filled out my entire water profile. We'll see how it goes.
 
My concern is I can't add the KCl into Beersmith, so even though I can spitball my numbers, my PH prediction according to Beersmith won't be accurate because I won't have filled out my entire water profile. We'll see how it goes.
you could try talking to Martin from Bru'N Water and see if he'd add KCl to the program
 
Another thing ive been wondering is the diacetyl rest, ive never done it because i think that if im carbing at around 20C for 5 to 7 days it should be enough time to clean anything up especially after almost 2 weeks in primary with dry hopping. Tbh never tasted any butteriness in my beers since i started the treehouse quest.
 
My concern is I can't add the KCl into Beersmith, so even though I can spitball my numbers, my PH prediction according to Beersmith won't be accurate because I won't have filled out my entire water profile. We'll see how it goes.

KCL will have no affect on PH. Ca and Mg are the only ions that affect Mash PH. And Mg has a much smaller affect than Ca.
 
KCL will have no affect on PH. Ca and Mg are the only ions that affect Mash PH. And Mg has a much smaller affect than Ca.
+1

What I was going to suggest is, make sure Beersmith knows your Ca, Mg and HCO3 and you should be ok as far as pH prediction. I don't use Beersmith so I don't know the mechanics of that. But you could also just put in the KCl as your NaCl and use the 1.27 factor if you want it to spit out your Cl ppm.

What I personally do is measure the pH 15 min into my mash and then adjust it if I want.
 
+1

What I was going to suggest is, make sure Beersmith knows your Ca, Mg and HCO3 and you should be ok as far as pH prediction. I don't use Beersmith so I don't know the mechanics of that. But you could also just put in the KCl as your NaCl and use the 1.27 factor if you want it to spit out your Cl ppm.

What I personally do is measure the pH 15 min into my mash and then adjust it if I want.

This is what I am doing for KCL additions. In Beersmith, I add the water profile, automatically adding the salt additions, then adjust the NaCl to KCl.
 
I've quite literally never even thought about diacetyl while brewing. Maybe I just don't use strains prone to make it

same here, only time i done one was on the only lager i ever brewed. I gave it a crazy! long lagering period i think as many days as og, 48. Ye having my fridge occupied for that long was no fun lol but it felt like were drinking champagne both in the bubbliness of it and how it made you feel. Zero hangover too after drinking far too much.
Do you think big fv say over 1000l due to capped fermentation pressure and vertical pressure could make the yeast lazy as its got less food? hence not cleaning up diacetyl and perhaps a rest would be fitting?
Tbh i dont really know much about the effects of pressure on yeast...
 
Since the topic seems to be water chemistry i will share some things i found work.

I mix my water ro with a spring that posts weekly testing of the water (its usually always the same or negligeble differences, mild and great smoothness) i mix abt half spring half ro cause it is already fairly high in ca (i try my hardest to not go over 100ppm), so i prefere epsom salts since spring water is lowish on Mg. And calcium chloride for Cl. Been going aboutish 150S 75Cl. I need to esperiment more with the ratios, but i found that decent enough to explore other parameters of the process.

What have you fellas found works best for yous in terms of ratios for that pillowy mouthfeel that bursts with hop flavour and esters?
 
Just brewed my second attempt today.

OG 1.072

42.5% 2 row
43% golden promise
10% Carapils
1.5 % melanoiden
1.5% C10
1.5% acid malt

Mashed at 153/154
bittered with 3ml hopshot and whirlpooled 11oz of a mix of galaxy (80%), amarillo (10%), and simcoe (10%)
will dry hop during active fermentation and once kegged with the same blend. 2 - 5oz additions.

Water Profile

44 C
10 Mg
10 Na
42 S
151 Cl

I added a little over 4 grams of KCl to keep my calcium down.

I rehydrated the yeast and went with S04 93%, T58 5%, W06 2%. I wanted to keep the t58 and w06 really low and will ferment at around 60-62. Hopefully that minimizes the clove and phenols. I thought about pitching the wb06 when i did my first dry hop but just did it all together.. I wo nder if that could be the key in keeping some of the unwanted phenol/esters out of the beer.

I will probably keg this in a week and will naturally carbonate for a week. Hopefully i can get this in the keezer the weekend before Christmas
 
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Just bottled my second attempt last night. CO2 transferred from my primary carboy to a purged keg on top of primer and 2 g CBC-1. Then used CO2 to push the primed beer to my wand. I remember now what a PITA bottling can be but this was the way it had to be for this batch.

Took a gravity reading and tried it after. Tasted good, nothing crazy as far as phenols. This was 91/3/6% S-04/WB-06/T-58. Started fermenting at 62F, ambient controlled at 63F, then raised the ambient to 67F when I added the first round of dry hops at 48 hours.

Should be starting to break into it middle of next week. I'll post the full recipe etc. then.
 
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Just wanted to provide update on my latest batch. I think I’ve settled into the sweet spot on ratios, at least for my palate. I pulled a sample last night after 10 days in keg conditioning (CBC) and one day in fridge. Very very reminiscent of the TH balance, soft round mouthfeel, and most importantly that sweet estery bubblegum thing without the phenols or Belgian character. Final dry hop charge tonight and hopefully pouring in 2-3 days. Ratio is 91% S04 / 4.5% WB06 / 4.5% T58 (10g/0.5g/0.5g in 5 gal). Will post a pic when we’re pouring. Cheers!
How is your beer looking? Hazy at all?
 
Just brewed my second attempt today.

OG 1.072

42.5% 2 row
43% golden promise
10% Carapils
1.5 % melanoiden
1.5% C10
1.5% acid malt

Mashed at 153/154
bittered with 3ml hopshot and whirlpooled 11oz of a mix of galaxy (80%), amarillo (10%), and simcoe (10%)
will dry hop during active fermentation and once kegged with the same blend. 2 - 5oz additions.

Water Profile

44 C
10 Mg
10 Na
42 S
151 Cl

I added a little over 4 grams of KCl to keep my calcium down.

I rehydrated the yeast and went with S04 93%, T58 5%, W06 2%. I wanted to keep the t58 and w06 really low and will ferment at around 60-62. Hopefully that minimizes the clove and phenols. I thought about pitching the wb06 when i did my first dry hop but just did it all together.. I wo nder if that could be the key in keeping some of the unwanted phenol/esters out of the beer.

I will probably keg this in a week and will naturally carbonate for a week. Hopefully i can get this in the keezer the weekend before Christmas
Looks like a delicious recipe!

Where did your mash pH end up?
 
I got it down to 5.3 with the acid malt addition. Going to add the first dry hop tonight or tomorrow morning.

I used to mash at around 5.2 but was told by a head brewer that they get a rounder beer mashing at 5.4. He did say it drastically improved the mouthfeel of their beers.
Another thing i think a lot of brewers forget is to adjust for temperature if taking reading at room temperature. I have an adwa ph meter and it can take readings at 60C. i have had readings at room temp go up 3 to 4 decimal places! than those measured at 60C.

Just sharing something i thought might be helpful, even though i wasnt solicited. hope it dont make me come across as a dickhead :S

ps.: I promised a pic but cant find old sd card heres my most recent brew pics from phone. Load of oats as you can tell, for that tropicana smooth orange juice mouthfeel. 9g esb 1 MJ bavarian wheat, 250g ofhops at 45C wp for about 40 min, and two charges of 150g dh one at 24 and another at day 6 once fg was stable. This time i tried cold crashing for 24h before second dry hop, my rational was let the heavier particles fall before some form of essential oil coats it and percipitates during the lets bottle cold crash. It was stinking when i bottled, lets hope it only gets better (lol)

heres my gravity sample at 24h
IMG_20171206_213855.jpg


heres it bottled after 4 days at 1 or 2c, got murk?

IMG_20171210_161305.jpg


Hopefully it will carb like other batches in 5/7 days and ill do a little drink report.
 
kegged the beer tonight and will let it natural carb for about a week. FG was 1.014. Tastes great so I’m hoping it doesn’t change much at room temp natural carbing. So much better than the previous attempts. No off flavors. Definitely has that treehouse character.
 

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kegged the beer tonight and will let it natural carb for about a week. FG was 1.014. Tastes great so I’m hoping it doesn’t change much at room temp natural carbing. So much better than the previous attempts. No off flavors. Definitely has that treehouse character.

Gorgeous! gee us a drink report when ready!
 
kegged the beer tonight and will let it natural carb for about a week. FG was 1.014. Tastes great so I’m hoping it doesn’t change much at room temp natural carbing. So much better than the previous attempts. No off flavors. Definitely has that treehouse character.

Looks awesome! I looked back through the thread a little ways - was this the 2.5 gal batch with the 88/10/2 yeast ratio? The one with 2 row, carafoam, L10, and honey malt?
 
I went to treehouse for the first time in ten months, since I really started chasing how to replicate their beers. I have to say, either I have had a huge palate shift/development since I've started making and drinking these hoppy creations en masse or somehow the treehouse quality has gone down since expanding to their new brewery. I'm inclined to believe the former. I've long lauded treehouse as the premier hazeboys and have repeatedly said Julius is the best IPA in the world but things done changed. That 'magic' character that I found across most of treehouse offerings weren't present in the aroma when I cracked a fresh Lights On, the flavor not as hop saturated, and the mouthfeel not as soft and pillowly as I remembered. I found the same general feeling in a can of Sap. I've yet to try the Julius I got but I'm a little... afraid? I was much happier with most the Trillium stuff I picked up last week- as well as a few other local neipas- when the opposite has always been true. Oh well, I'll still get in line to buy next time I'm home.

Anyways, Lights On totally smells and tastes like two batches of IPA that I made (and wasn't very happy with) that were a blend of about 15% warm fermented(25*C) T-58 and 85% 19*C S-04, and one with London ESB instead of S-04. Hops we're different on both batches but primarily used a mix of Citra, Galaxy, Motueka, and a few other NZ hops with most IBUs being achieved from a whirlpool addition with an equally large(weight) amount or greater for dry hopping. The mouthfeel wasn't that far off either and I used 100:100 so4:cl in the mash and CBC-1 to carbonate.

I'll have to open another can of Sap to give my feelings on that, as well as Julius. But from my experiments and tasting what I've tasted- I believe they (some) might separate fermentations blended. I believe Nate when he says he likes to keep things simple and repeatable. We've been doing fresh pitches of dry yeast for most batches in our brewery and wouldn't be surprised if they did the same- simple and not that expensive.

This won't hinder my quest for crafting the perfect NE IPA and if anything has just changed my feeling about what that actually might be. Cheers folks, I'll share any knowledge I gain in the coming months.
 
I went to treehouse for the first time in ten months, since I really started chasing how to replicate their beers. I have to say, either I have had a huge palate shift/development since I've started making and drinking these hoppy creations en masse or somehow the treehouse quality has gone down since expanding to their new brewery. I'm inclined to believe the former. I've long lauded treehouse as the premier hazeboys ... I was much happier with most the Trillium stuff I picked up last week- as well as a few other local neipas- when the opposite has always been true.

Might be batch variation - in particular hop age could be playing a part. Back in February you would have been drinking beer made with hops from the new harvest, whereas at this time of year there's a significant chance that you could be drinking from last year's harvest - and Trillium might have moved on to 2017 when Treehouse are still on 2016.

It's a possibility, in any case.
 
@melville Have you noticed any change in the beers hop flavor and aroma after letting it natural carb (warm) for a week with the beers that you didnt keg hop? I didn't keg hop this batch. Hope my hoppiness doesn't diminish sitting warm for a week... I kinda wish I forced carbed this one.
 
@melville Have you noticed any change in the beers hop flavor and aroma after letting it natural carb (warm) for a week with the beers that you didnt keg hop? I didn't keg hop this batch. Hope my hoppiness doesn't diminish sitting warm for a week... I kinda wish I forced carbed this one.
I've keg hopped all the beers, whether they were naturally conditioning or force carbed, so I can't help there. This current beer I forced carb with hops in the keg vs naturally carbed in the keg with hops and it seems a tad "brighter" to me, but also took a bit longer for everything to come together (i.e. the hops being spicy/green). It's now 23 days old from brew day and definitely at its most delicious.

I'll note in the the hoppy things recipe, nate mentions force carbing for two weeks, so that 18-21 day timeframe is really worth it (regardless of carb method)

Assuming this next beer comes out as soft or softer than this one, I think I'll be okay force carbing vs natural. (This (the one on tap now) is the first one I've made where I've really felt pumped for the mouthfeel).
 
I've keg hopped all the beers, whether they were naturally conditioning or force carbed, so I can't help there. This current beer I forced carb with hops in the keg vs naturally carbed in the keg with hops and it seems a tad "brighter" to me, but also took a bit longer for everything to come together (i.e. the hops being spicy/green). It's now 23 days old from brew day and definitely at its most delicious.

I'll note in the the hoppy things recipe, nate mentions force carbing for two weeks, so that 18-21 day timeframe is really worth it (regardless of carb method)

Assuming this next beer comes out as soft or softer than this one, I think I'll be okay force carbing vs natural. (This (the one on tap now) is the first one I've made where I've really felt pumped for the mouthfeel).

Nice! I used 8oz total for this beer. How much have you been using for 2.5 gal?
 
I've keg hopped all the beers, whether they were naturally conditioning or force carbed, so I can't help there. This current beer I forced carb with hops in the keg vs naturally carbed in the keg with hops and it seems a tad "brighter" to me, but also took a bit longer for everything to come together (i.e. the hops being spicy/green). It's now 23 days old from brew day and definitely at its most delicious.

I'll note in the the hoppy things recipe, nate mentions force carbing for two weeks, so that 18-21 day timeframe is really worth it (regardless of carb method)

Assuming this next beer comes out as soft or softer than this one, I think I'll be okay force carbing vs natural. (This (the one on tap now) is the first one I've made where I've really felt pumped for the mouthfeel).

Did you still add the cdc1? How do the bubbles compare to when you have done natural carbing?
 
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