bakins
Well-Known Member
So, what's the general feeling on a subpanel versus just using a distribution block? The block is much smaller and I've almost convinced myself that the subpanel is not needed.
I already have 25' of 10/4 so I will use half to go from the wall to the control panel and the other half from the control panel to the burner. If I didn't already have the 10/4, I agree, 10/3 is what I should use.I'm no electrican but that setup makes sense to me. The only typo I see is that the wire to the elements is 10/3 not 10/4 (there's no need for a neutral). You can use 10/4 wire if you want, just cap the neutral with a marret.
I'd go even further and ask what the consensus is on large wire nuts vs distribution blocks?
I didn't want to use 6 gauge wire everywhere the 220 went. I may not have had to but the sub panel wasn't that expensive and I already had a regular 30 amp breaker for the sub panel. I can also add a 120 v breaker to the subpanel and it will be protected by the gfci as well.
Every person that keeps saying that I am no electrician should not be giving advise when they have no idea what is available or needed (to code).
but it would basically be considered an appliance..... i will submit a brew rig diagram and i bet i can get it passed.
For the record: there is basically no way to build an electric brew rig to code. We are building (or have built) hot water heaters. However, it's not very hard to wire from main box to the receptacle to code - a basic wiring book has that in it, as well as subpanels, etc. You can actually read the real codes as well (I did for parts of it.) Actually on the brew rig, we can give advice on what has work and should work based on other electrical wiring principles and how other "to code" wiring implementations might be done. In the end, it's just unprofessional advice
That's the disclaimer. Electricity can kill you. Never ever do anything that's not to code. My posts should never be followed and are for reference only.
If you need to hire an electrical contractor or engineer to tell you not build an electric brew rig (because, legally, that's what they should do), then please do. However, if you have issues running a basic 30A circuit, you can hire that out, but I'd recommend you seriously reconsider going electric. If you have trouble with a pretty simple 240V circuit, then you probably don't need to screw around with SSR's and 5400W heater elements.
There, does that make you happy?
Why is it such a bad thing to have one leg still hot to the element?
All I was trying to say here is get someone with electronic experience to help with the engineering of the circuits if you have very little ability with electronics.
I went on a semi-rant about this in another thread:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/bl...rms-conversion-93217/index14.html#post1036288
Basically, use a DPST switch on the element circuit and turn it off when you want element to be completely off.
I'm thinking of doing the following:
*Regular* 30A 2-pole breaker in the panel -> 10/4 wire -> some sort of 'disconnect switch' to power the brew panel on/off -> 30A dryer outlet.
The brew panel will be plugged into the dryer outlet using this 30A/240V 2-pole 4-wire GFI cord to provide protection:
$80 off ebay: 30A Ground Fault Interrupt Plug GFI CordCable FREE SHIP - eBay (item 110302613578 end time Jan-19-09 10:23:22 PST)
It's pretty inexpensive. Anyone ever use one of these? They don't mention if it's a "Class A" GFI. That's about my only concern.
One of the nice things about putting the GFI in the cable is that I can then take my brew setup with me elsewhere as we have 'brew day' events around here. 30A dryer outlets are easy to find.
Kal
Got this 30A GFI cable today. The thing is *MASSIVE*. I had concerns about the build quality as it was hard to tell from the pictures but the cord shielding is super-thick and the actual GFI module is almost a FOOT long. It's huge the whole thing weighs almost 8 lbs.
Building for a 30A service lets me build something portable as 30A dryer outlets are easy to come by. My GFI is on the cord too so it's truly portable.
Ebay! Actually, 90% of the control panel was puchased off ebay including the case, heat sink, all switches, buttons, digital timer, relays, etc. The PIDs and SSRs were from Auberins.comNice finish work and I love the Blichmann kettles!
Where did you purchase the AC ammeter and voltage gauges? I looked around on Ebay a while back and mainly found DC ammeter gauges.
Strange. It's a standard 240v/30A dryer plug. Fits in my dryer outlet and every other dryer outlet I've seen sold at Home Depot or other electrical stores. If your house is older or not in North America it may be different.I went the same route (30A inline GFI cable), but I'm not sure I'd call it "portable". The plug won't fit most of the 30a 240v outlets in my area.
Here's the AC Ammeter: 3½ Digital Blue LED AC 0~50A Amp Panel Meter + Shunt - eBay (item 380144952148 end time Aug-31-09 05:34:58 PDT)
If the auction's gone search for: 3½ Digital Blue LED AC 0~50A Amp Panel Meter + Shunt
Looks like you put a lot of time and energy into selecting the components and designing/building the rig. Very impressive.
That's right. There are two 120V hot legs, one neutral, and a ground. Everything goes through one of the hots and then if it's a 120V item it returns across the neutral. If it's one of the two heater elements it returns across the other hot to get 240V total.Thanks, that's what I was looking for! Since you're measuring total system amperage (120v and 240v components), I assume you installed the shunt in series with the shared "hot" leg, correct?
Thanks! The labels are easy ... just about any trophy shop or engraving shop will sell them to you for about $1/each.Kal I love your setup! Very detailed and very well done. I like that you even have great labels on everything.
No problems at all. I pull 22-23A with the 5500W element running at 100% and two March pumps and all my dials/switches. So I'm fine.Kal,
To answer the subject of the thread, you ended up going with the 30A circuit correct?
Have you had any problems?
I'm looking at 4500W heater with 2.4A pump running concurrently.
I really like your system including the venting...
Not sure what wire you're referring to or if the question's directed at me, but for the 30A 240VAC line going between the electrical panel breaker and my control panel which distributes the power, I'm using 10/3 with ground (sometimes called 10/4). This is to code. Anything smaller would be a violation of code and dangerous.What's the wire size you are using.
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