Initial heating element test shows rust

[0verdrive]

Yet another hurdle on my path to an electric brewery!

I hadn't thought/read about rust on the heating elements, so after running my tests, I let the water sit in my keggles for future tests. I went down the next night, and was surprised to see the heating elements in my HLT and BK were covered in rust!

Before I treat the elements to keep the rust from returning, I'll need to thoroughly remove the rust. There are lots of posts discussing how to prevent rust, but most of them just say "remove the rust, then take X step to prevent future rust" without specifying the best method for removing the rust in the first place. I assume I can scrub most of it off with a green scrub pad and Barkeeper's friend, but is that enough? Should I also try to chemically treat it to handle any microscopic rust or rust in threads that I can't scrub out? I've read that I can treat it with citric acid (or lemon juice). Any thoughts on that?

After removing the rust, I'll need to take steps to prevent it from reappearing. The most common solutions seem to be an aluminum or magnesium sacrificial anode, food-grade silicone, or POR-15. Because I already have the silicone adhesive/sealant (for waterproofing the heating element on the outside of the keggle) I figured I'd start with that, and see how it works.

That said, I'm confused as to how and when I should apply it. Some comments make it sounds like it should be installed, then covered in silicone. Other comments are concerned about the threads, and make it sound like I should cover it liberally (including the threads) then install it. I guess I could try both - cover it in silicone, install it, then cover it some more. Suggestions?

Thanks for your help,
~Dean

 

[audger]

barkeepers friend or vinegar will work to remove it. you dont have to worry about a small amount of rust; just get the bulk off.

to prevent it- simply dry the kettle after each use. not much rust forms in the few hours of a brew day. but as you have found, overnight is too long. i dont use any silicone or fancy annodes on any of my kettles and none have very much rust in em. you can also look for stainless steel elements (but they are $$)

 

[Maxkling]

Never heard of anything other than drying or the anode .

Not sure I understand your concepts, you want to coat a heating element with either caulk/glue or a chassis undercoating, or just the base of the element?

 

[0verdrive]

Never heard of anything other than drying or the anode .

Not sure I understand your concepts, you want to coat a heating element with either caulk/glue or a chassis undercoating, or just the base of the element?

It's just the base of the element that's rusting, so (it's my understanding that) some people coat the base (inside the lock nut) with either POR-15, or with a food-grade silicone, preventing the base from being exposed to water.

That said, if it isn't a common problem, and can (reliably) be prevented by drying out the keggles after use, I'll probably go that route. My only concern with that is that I can't visually inspect (or physically dry) the heating element in the RIMS tube. So while I can drain the tube, I don't know whether that will be sufficient to prevent it from rusting.