Induction burners

[TheLostBeer]

So looking to use the avantco 3500w induction burner, but curious how well that would work with my spike 20gal BK??

I would like to use it and I def know it's well oversized for the batches im doin, but eventually will be expanding. Or would be better off putting an element in it?

 

[wilserbrewer]

3500w is not a lot of horsepower for a 20 gallon kettle....

How patient are ya?

How about a 5500w hot rod heat stick from brewhardware.com?

What size batches are you looking at?

 

[Ozarks Mountain Brewery]

be careful I have a lower model 1800 watt and the pot has a burnt ring on top and bottom from the constant heating of the metal, I use it for yeast starters and extracts also not all pots will work, you have to test it and those heat defuser plates plates are junk don't use one

 

[TheLostBeer]

Well it is a 20 gallon pot, but looting at roughly 12 to 13 gallons on it.

Was considering this as a easier way but was also looking at the 5k elements as well. And not really wanting to cut into this one.
And with the induction burners would make it were I don't need a controller as well, at least for the BK anyway.

 

[IslandLizard]

Using an IC3500 I've brewed 11 gallon batches in a (wideass) 15 gallon MoreBeer Heavy Duty kettle (tri ply bottom). I had to keep the lid on half way to keep some sort of boil going, it wasn't vigorous. Still boiled off over 1 gallon an hour, and no DMS detected.

Mind you, it does take quite a bit of time to get 8 gallons of strike water ready and bring the runnings to a boil.

I don't know if the hot rod heat sticks cause wort scorching, they're not ULWD, but would be a useful accessory heating unit.

 

[TheLostBeer]

Yea so I'm thinking probably be best served using the 5k heating elements ..

Time to revamp a little

 

[jrgtr42]

Yeah, for (presuming) 10 gallon batches the 3500 may be a bit underpowered - though I gather it'll work - you may have to insulate the kettle and so forth. I'm planning on getting one of the IC3500s myself - but I stick with 5 - 5.5 gallon batches. I'll still have my propane burning if I want to go any bigger

 

[cod3ck]

Yea so I'm thinking probably be best served using the 5k heating elements ..

Time to revamp a little

If I were you -- send that kettle back to Spike and get a 2" TC connection added on it for an element.

Electric brewing is awesome, but unless you want to keep your batches small, immersion elements are the way to go!

 

[wilserbrewer]

I don't know if the hot rod heat sticks cause wort scorching, they're not ULWD, but would be a useful accessory heating unit.

The hot rod heat stick will accommodate any element, ULWD included. With a basic linear controller about the same money as the 3500w induction plate. While not quite plug and play like the Avantco, Bobby at brewhardware offers assembly for a reasonable fee.

 

[TheLostBeer]

I

 

[TheLostBeer]

Hmm yea wish I would have figured I was goin to be switching to TC's. Could be a reason to get another.. maybe sell the one I got, and still a virgin at the moment..

And why 2" tc and not 1.5" ?

 

[cod3ck]

The 2" will give you more space to easily remove the element for cleaning. You can do it with 1.5", it's just not as easy.

If I were to do it all over again, 2" would be key...

If you wanted to bypass the sanitary welds, I believe stilldragon.com sells some 2" weldless TC's

 

[Mer-man]

I have a 3500W Hendi induction plate and a 10gal SS Brewtech kettle. 2000W setting will maintain a gentle boil on 6gal.

 

[The_Bishop]

The 2" will give you more space to easily remove the element for cleaning. You can do it with 1.5", it's just not as easy.

If I were to do it all over again, 2" would be key...

If you wanted to bypass the sanitary welds, I believe stilldragon.com sells some 2" weldless TC's

Brewhardware has 1.5" weldless TC fittings if you really want to go that route. The silver solder fittings are a home run in avoiding the need for sanitary stainless welding, which can be damn near impossible to find.

Personally, I'd go with a 1.5" fitting so I could use the heating elements with the TC flange. They're wonderful for easy of removal and cleaning, being able to detach the cord from them helps tremendously.

I've never had an issue removing my heating element from a 1.5" TC fitting, and I've got the ULWD ripple element. Just need to do a little maneuvering back and forth while sliding it out.

 

[TheLostBeer]

The 2" will give you more space to easily remove the element for cleaning. You can do it with 1.5", it's just not as easy.

If I were to do it all over again, 2" would be key...

If you wanted to bypass the sanitary welds, I believe stilldragon.com sells some 2" weldless TC's

Yea after trying the weldless, not a fan at all, I prefer welded.

Haven't got a answer back what does spike usually charge for welding the TC on ?

 

[audioa84]

I have the Avantco 3500 unit and a 15g Spike kettle. I can get 8 gallons to boil well but would agree that 11 gal or more would be pushing it.