In a three pot brewing set up where should the best pot be?

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Marc77

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I've recently got my hands on a Blichmann G1 kettle with a hopblocker. I've got two Bayou Classic kettles and a cooler. I'm trying to figure out what setup I should use? I want to eventually move to Kal's electric setup. Is there a "better" place to use the Blichmann? I figured the boil kettle but I've wondered if the mash is the better place to use it?

Thoughts? Also, in addition, before I got the G1 I was using two Bayou Classic's and cooler for the mash. Keep the cooler there?
 
Normally, Unless one is triclad on the bottom and the others arent, the blichmann pot will not do anything any better than the bayou except maybe hold up better to being banged around and being abused when cleaning. Once you go electric it really doesnt matter..
Many people really just buy them for looks or just because they have been told they are "the best" They are a better quality kettle for looks and durability but not performance at a kettle.

Heres the ironic part... most people who spend more than they should or can afford on these tend to baby them to prevent any scuffs and scratched making the extra durability of these even less likely to ever pay off..

IMO since you g1 kettle has the hop blocker the best use of it would be as a boil kettle.
and its a no brainer unless your more concerned with looks than function or use a rims or herms to keep the cooler as a mash tun vs the kettle for consistent mash temps. if you have a rims or herms than the cooler is not needed at all and the stainless with be easier to keep clean and less likely to warp if you goof up on sparge temps.
 
I have Kal's electric system and it performs excellent.
The only change I made was using three 20 gallon Megapots rather than Blichmann.
Didn't see the need to pay for the name, and I don't need the sight glass.
Augiedoggy is spot on.
 
Normally, Unless one is triclad on the bottom and the others arent, the blichmann pot will not do anything any better than the bayou except maybe hold up better to being banged around and being abused when cleaning. Once you go electric it really doesnt matter..
Many people really just buy them for looks or just because they have been told they are "the best" They are a better quality kettle for looks and durability but not performance at a kettle.

Heres the ironic part... most people who spend more than they should or can afford on these tend to baby them to prevent any scuffs and scratched making the extra durability of these even less likely to ever pay off..

IMO since you g1 kettle has the hop blocker the best use of it would be as a boil kettle.
and its a no brainer unless your more concerned with looks than function or use a rims or herms to keep the cooler as a mash tun vs the kettle for consistent mash temps. if you have a rims or herms than the cooler is not needed at all and the stainless with be easier to keep clean and less likely to warp if you goof up on sparge temps.

I'm moving to electric but doing so as I can. So it sounds like I should actually keep both the cooler and kettle. Use the Blichmann as the boil kettle, cooler for the mash tun as I use propane and then when I move to electric use the kettle.

I guess my turns to that if all kettles are the same barring thickness what's the purpose for the 1:2 ratio that everyone talks about? Is it just a great big fallacy?
 
I'm moving to electric but doing so as I can. So it sounds like I should actually keep both the cooler and kettle. Use the Blichmann as the boil kettle, cooler for the mash tun as I use propane and then when I move to electric use the kettle.

I guess my turns to that if all kettles are the same barring thickness what's the purpose for the 1:2 ratio that everyone talks about? Is it just a great big fallacy?
the 1:2 ratio nets you a little better boil with slightly less boiloff and power vs a wider kettle... its not a huge factor really unless your limited on power the boil or your trying to have less boiloff evaporation also, the other nice thing with tall narrow kettles are you can brew smaller batches a bit more comfortably some of the wider kettles set up for electric wont be deep enough to cover the element for example with smaller batches. You also have an inch or 3 more headspace at the top of the kettle which can allow you to get away with a smaller kettle without as much concern for boilovers..
They really market the heck out of the 1:2 term though to mainly help justify ridiculous prices for a big soup pot when marketed for homebrewing.
 
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I'd ditch the cooler, and use the 3 kettles (and as previously mentioned, use the largest for the boil kettle)
Why would that be a good move? He has no rims or herms to maintain mash temps so as I see it all it would do would make his system more attractive looking without holding correct mash temps as well and having the beer come out less consistent and predictable? a person has to ask themselves which is more important when in this situation, The beer or the bling... If its both you better plan on adding the herms or rims asap or buy one of those stainless insulated Mash tuns that hold temps almost as good as a plastic cooler and are more durable but less convenient to empty and use. (youl'll look good while having to scoop out all the used grain into buckets vs just dumping the whole cooler though)

I brew with electric but I use a 15.5gallon bayou kettle for my BK and 16 gallon bayous for the hlt and mt and mostly brew 11 gallon brews... never had an issue with boilovers because I just set my pid to stop heating when it reaches 207 degrees and then I watch it through the hotbreak point after that and avoid the boilover point... with flame heat and a thick bottom like a triclad this type of control is not possible due to the residual heat stored in the bottom which will conitue to boilover for moments longer than electric would once the heat is shut off momentarily.
 
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Get a false bottom and use it as a mash tun. No stuck sparges
What about a blichman kettle would prevent stuck sparges vs any other kettle or cooler with a bulkhead and FB?
Stuck sparges are usually a result sparging too quickly or having a fb that isnt sealing correctly. I have heard the blichmann fb grate is unique in design but is it really that superior to everything else? its looks like it would plug just as easily as any other.
Also I assume the cooler is still more narrow than any of the kettles? supposedly the taller narrow mash tuns are supposed to have the efficiency advantage.. Ive never found it made a difference myself.
 
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When I went electric, I kept my cooler MLT for ages. The only reason I don't use it much anymore and use the keg is because I went with bigger batch sizes, and the cooler maxed out at about 23 pounds.

A cooler is a great MLT, even for electric systems. They are lightweight, hold heat well, and easy to clean.

The order I'd upgrade is first a good boil kettle, then a nice HLT with HERMS coil (if going with HERMS), then the MLT.
 
I agree largest kettle should be boil kettle. Also until you do go electric you probably will appreciate the clad bottom.

I will also advocate for going to kettle based mash tun with full false bottom, recirculating pump and HERMS, RIMS or direct fire RIMS. Given you see electric in your future Either HERMS or RIMS. I made good beer in my cooler but after about 80 batches it was warped from heat, splitting apart at one seam, and never looked really clean.
 
I appreciate all the responses! My kettles should all be 20 gallon. I say should because my bayou classic are 82 qt but I’ve never measured if they are in fact 20.5 gallons but have heard rumors they had manufacturing problems and are actually 19-20 gallons.

At any rate, my cooler is one of those Coleman xtreme conversions for my mash tun. But as I said I’ll be moving towards electric. I have two pumps to help and am putting together a kal clone for electric. So still a ways off and want to keep brewing instead of waiting.

That’s why I said I’ll probably stick with the cooler for now since it’s all set up. Then once I have a full on electric setup go with a NorCal false bottom for my bayou classic once I can afford it. Bits and pieces. I’m impatient but can’t afford all the bling out of the gate. Stupid monies! Ha.

Thanks again for all the input!
 
I appreciate all the responses! My kettles should all be 20 gallon. I say should because my bayou classic are 82 qt but I’ve never measured if they are in fact 20.5 gallons but have heard rumors they had manufacturing problems and are actually 19-20 gallons.

At any rate, my cooler is one of those Coleman xtreme conversions for my mash tun. But as I said I’ll be moving towards electric. I have two pumps to help and am putting together a kal clone for electric. So still a ways off and want to keep brewing instead of waiting.

That’s why I said I’ll probably stick with the cooler for now since it’s all set up. Then once I have a full on electric setup go with a NorCal false bottom for my bayou classic once I can afford it. Bits and pieces. I’m impatient but can’t afford all the bling out of the gate. Stupid monies! Ha.

Thanks again for all the input!

It's strange, but I think I disagree with almost everyone here. First, I would use the largest pot for a mashtun since the size of your mash is the limiting factor in making big beers if your boil pot meets the min batch size recommendation. Second, I have the Blichmann (3 of them) and I also have the SS Brewtech and Bayou Classic. I can unequivocally state that the Blichmann is the superior pot. The sight glass built in, spigot, sturdiness, etc. are all better than either Bayou or SS Brewtech. I have mashed upwards of 45 lbs of grain in the Blichmann 20 and it can handle that like a champ without bending or breaking the bottom.

Second, if the pots are all the same volume, I would *still* use the Blichmann as the mashtun. It's false bottom setup is much better than any other setup I have ever used. No grains leak around sides, easy to clean and remove, and never seems to get stuck. It really is a superior design.
 
I agree the biggest kettle should be the mash tun if thats a limiting factor now.
No ones saids the blichmann wasnt a better pot.. Just a Mercedes in better than a gm product.. But both will get you point a to be just as well. The bayou kettles work just as well to make beer and while the valves dont feel as firm and ridged the truth is they wont damage the kettle walls ive yet to see this actually happen to anyone. Have you ever seen reports of the bayou kettles actually breaking or bending from normal use?
Ive never had issues with stuck sparges with the bayou FB myself because there is a nice lip around the edge of the kettle for the fb to seal against.
 
I agree the biggest kettle should be the mash tun if thats a limiting factor now.
No ones saids the blichmann wasnt a better pot.. Just a Mercedes in better than a gm product.. But both will get you point a to be just as well. The bayou kettles work just as well to make beer and while the valves dont feel as firm and ridged the truth is they wont damage the kettle walls ive yet to see this actually happen to anyone. Have you ever seen reports of the bayou kettles actually breaking or bending from normal use?
Ive never had issues with stuck sparges with the bayou FB myself because there is a nice lip around the edge of the kettle for the fb to seal against.

It's not a case of is Bayou good enough for X. The question was what would you use the Blichmann for? The Blichmann's strength IMO is when combined with it's excellent false bottom as a mash tun. First and foremost this. Next, it's just a better pot than anything on the market in terms of features. So, if you really want it to be a boil kettle, it would be a great boil kettle. Same with HERMS - it's excellent as an HLT with the interior coil for many of the same reasons (great sight glass, excellent build and pickup tube, etc.). However, since I have one in each position as well as two other competing pots (Bayou and SS Brewtech), I can definitely state that I would choose it to be the mashtun first and foremost, then a boil kettle and finally HLT.

I want to state this is not a condemnation of anyone's pot - rather, it's a (somewhat) informed opinion on where a Blichmann does its best work in a 3 kettle system. As indicated, any pot will get you there - but the Blichmann really excels as a mashtun (IMO).
 
I do see your point about the accessories.. I haven't seen any evidence to show blichmanns false bottom performs better than other options. Mine has worked very well for my application but everyones application and implementation varies.
"Best" is relative and really depends on application and circumstances that very from person to person.

The OP already has the different kettles. and based upon size and features and cleanup practices there are good reasons one should be used over another.

But to embellish upon the other reasons you gave for the blichmann being superior for those who dont already have the thier equipment. My point is how do you practically define and justify "best" when these things like the kettle cracking/ breaking or the handles falling off have often been given for these reasons for years here to justify buying the heavier kettles when no one has actually reported this ever happening as far as Ive seen? When you have to exaggerate the extent of the reality of the situation to justify it then is it a real advantage?

If I made beer with blichmann or bayou kettles the procedure would be the same and the beer would come out the same and neither kettle would be more damaged or worn out after that... The differences beyond that is a trade off because I could spend a few hundred or a couple thousand to do so.. and with those differences I could take my chances and bang up and replace a bayou kettle or two and still come out ahead. and that is a very real and practical advantage that the bayou and other lower cost options have over the expensive stuff thats often overlooked as well as the much lower upgrade costs later. What good is a $300 kettle if your afraid to drill a hole in it to improve your workflow? yet I hear excuses like that very often. again different needs and priorities for different people and the outcome is the same so..

:off: Soap box time.
It reminds me a bit of "monster" brand home theater cables.. in the home theater equipment forums... People would spend hundreds more for things like oxygen free speaker wire and $100 hdmi cables with the piece of mind of knowing its the "best" over a $6 hdmi cable thinking it would give them better picture quality when in truth, with digital cables it either works or doesnt, The only picture degradation you can get from a digital hdmi cable was red sparkes that would show up if you used too long of a cable (happens with some 25ft+ unshielded cables).. Otherwise that extra $94 is completely unjustified in the work of normal 3-8ft hdmi cables. But the monster cables are thicker so they wont get damaged as easily right? in the real world application the extra weight is just not actually needed to perform the job and will never really be appreciated... Thats my point.

In this situation, There is more money to be made for places like best buy if they peddle an hdmi cable that costs 8 bucks to manufacture for $100 retail vs a cable that cost $2 to manufacture for $6 and thats the all too often a large reason your see all the marketing hype and false advertising for the expensive options. (Its more about whats best for retailers than the consumer) and someone has to pay extra for the marketing.. It usually doesnt come out of the larger profits of the manufacturer and retailers.

Lab testing was later done comparing these different monster cables against cheaper options and proved that one did not have any real world performance advantage whatsoever and the monitoring equipment of human subjects could not tell the difference. Eventually even places like Bestbuy started carrying more reasonable options (still priced 3 times more than anywhere else)

When you drink a homebrew, can you tell what brand of equipment it was made with? when you break it down to bottle x or homebrew cost 3 times more than bottle Y to brew and is an equally good quality product then which equipment is "Best" isnt so clear.

For these same reasons youll find more GM vehicles on our street than Mercedes..
 
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The question was not whether the Blichmann was worth the $$$, the question was where it would be best used. With a false bottom, sight glass, I say as the MT. The false bottom is highly regarded for recirc systems, the sight glass is also an advantage there (indicative of a sticking sparge or recirc) A BK or HLT, those are IME not as important. I have 3 Blichmanns, my 1st was the MT, then upgraded the other kettles later. My aluminum pots made great HLT and BK. I bought Blich for durability, sight glass, and valves. Certainly, I could have spent much less and still brewed great beer. I am also an admitted bling addict.
 
Exactly. This is my point as well.
I have mashed upwards of 45 lbs of grain in the Blichmann 20 and it can handle that like a champ without bending or breaking the bottom.

Second, if the pots are all the same volume, I would *still* use the Blichmann as the mashtun. It's false bottom setup is much better than any other setup I have ever used. No grains leak around sides, easy to clean and remove, and never seems to get stuck. It really is a superior design.
It was this comment and the mention of the pot bending and breaking as well as the grain getting through the false bottom even though the bayou false bottom sits on a ledge built into the pot and seals around the edge better than most out there that I was commenting on. Also what about the blichmann kettle makes it easier to clean? these statements provided as reasons are are a bit exaggerated and unfounded IMO as someone who has used a variety of keggles and kettles including the bayous for years.

Also this has been brought up in many threads but a kettle with a sightglass is not a good option for a mashtun. if you have a kettle without your better off using that... It will read inaccurately and often air ends up getting pulled through it, especially if the OP has any plans for recirculation with a herms or rims. down the road.
People love the bling but it will hurt more than help here
 
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It was this comment and the mention of the pot bending and breaking as well as the grain getting through the false bottom even though the bayou false bottom sits on a ledge built into the pot and seals around the edge better than most out there that I was commenting on. Also what about the blichmann kettle makes it easier to clean? these statements provided as reasons are are a bit exaggerated and unfounded IMO as someone who has used a variety of keggles and kettles including the bayous for years.

Also this has been brought up in many threads but a kettle with a sightglass is not a good option for a mashtun. if you have a kettle without your better off using that... It will read inaccurately and often air ends up getting pulled through it, especially if the OP has any plans for recirculation with a herms or rims. down the road.
People love the bling but it will hurt more than help here

It's not a case of is Bayou good enough for X. The question was what would you use the Blichmann for? The Blichmann's strength IMO is when combined with it's excellent false bottom as a mash tun.

Not sure why you are arguing about this. Again, the question was what you would use the pot for. I pretty clearly said that. I also said it was the best *I* have used ("I" being the operative word there). Have you personally used a Blichmann as a mashtun? As I also said, I have the Bayou and it's entirely serviceable as a boil pot. However, trying to argue it's in the same class as the Blichmann is uninformed - especially if you haven't personally used both.

You seem to have something personal against people spending money on nice equipment (what you call bling). However, the OP already owns it. He's just asking how to best utilize it. Let me quote myself again one more time if it wasn't particularly clear:

I want to state this is not a condemnation of anyone's pot - rather, it's a (somewhat) informed opinion on where a Blichmann does its best work in a 3 kettle system. As indicated, any pot will get you there - but the Blichmann really excels as a mashtun (IMO).

Here's a review of the Bayou classic as a mashtun (with 3 gal of dead space under the false bottom no less). It's similar to my experience. If you have personally used this successfully as a mashtun, good on you. I gave my Bayou to my father in law and he uses it as a BIAB kit now. It was pretty terrible as a mashtun.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/R2U1IOQZZC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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I manage 91% efficiency just fine with the bayou. Clearly I must be doing something differently that you did... The 3 gallons of deadspace mean nothing if one recirculates which most using an uninsulated kettle as a mashun would be wise to do.. If they cared about the beer as much as how good their setup looks.

Not arguing just responding to comments made.

When I see comments such as the kettle breaking and the bottom giving out, it does give reason to question what comes along with it as being unfounded bias as well.

I stated a sightglass in a mashtun would do more harm than good and yes I would see that as bling there more than anything.

If it really is about utilizing what he already has then the g1 with a hopblocker would probably best utilized as a boil kettle. Since just a false bottom alone for the g1 is going to run the OP about what the cost of the other kettles were. (about $120 more plus shipping)
 
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I manage 91% efficiency just fine with the bayou. Clearly I must be doing something differently that you did... The 3 gallons of deadspace mean nothing if one recirculates which most using an uninsulated kettle as a mashun would be wise to do.. If they cared about the beer as much as how good their setup looks.

Not arguing just responding to comments made.

When I see comments such as the kettle breaking and the bottom giving out, it does give reason to question what comes along with it as being unfounded bias as well.

I stated a sightglass in a mashtun would do more harm than good and yes I would see that as bling there more than anything.

If it really is about utilizing what he already has then the g1 with a hopblocker would probably best utilized as a boil kettle. Since just a false bottom alone for the g1 is going to run the OP about what the cost of the other kettles were. (about $120 more plus shipping)

I've been watching the thread and the only thing keeping me on the fence is you mentioning the sightglass problem for the mash tun. The reason being I've found a NorCal false bottom but that starts at $165 where the Blichmann false bottom is $120. If I used the Blichmann as the mash tun I could sell the hop blocker and continue using the hop spider I've got which would make the Blichmann false bottom even cheaper.

I think what I'm most shocked about is that a Blichmann false bottom costs more than a false bottom for a Bayou Classic.
 
I've been watching the thread and the only thing keeping me on the fence is you mentioning the sightglass problem for the mash tun. The reason being I've found a NorCal false bottom but that starts at $165 where the Blichmann false bottom is $120. If I used the Blichmann as the mash tun I could sell the hop blocker and continue using the hop spider I've got which would make the Blichmann false bottom even cheaper.

I think what I'm most shocked about is that a Blichmann false bottom costs more than a false bottom for a Bayou Classic.

I, and many others, like the sight glass for mashing. It shows you very quickly if you are heading towards stuck or sparging too fast or too slow. I personally wouldn't worry about the sight glass - most folks would think it is a benefit as opposed to a drawback.
 
I, and many others, like the sight glass for mashing. It shows you very quickly if you are heading towards stuck or sparging too fast or too slow. I personally wouldn't worry about the sight glass - most folks would think it is a benefit as opposed to a drawback.

I would assume the thought being that if you're headed towards a stuck sparge your sightglass liquid will keep getting lower and lower. If that's the case how is that fixed?
 
I would assume the thought being that if you're headed towards a stuck sparge your sightglass liquid will keep getting lower and lower. If that's the case how is that fixed?
this is EXACTLY what happens... unless your not recirulating and only gravity draining, it sucks all the liquid and then air through the SG as it offers the least amount of resistence to pull from.

This is why if you do a search here on this topic you will find this has been mentioned and discussed many times with some plugging and other removing the sight glass all together. Its also why a lot of systems dont offer it in the MT
Do you notice whats missing from ALL these MT options?
https://conical-fermenter.com/Mash-Tuns/

It absolutely no suprise that anything with the blichmann brand name on it right down to replacement orings and proprietary sized components to force you to use blichmann replacement parts cost more.

my FB was $45 with free shipping and it really does work fine. its not as heavy as the blichmann fb but it doesnt actually need to be for any legit reason and that was kind of the point. bayous first generation FB was too flimsy and there were some problems but I have the stronger one and have been using it for years with zero issues... Ive only ever used rice hulls once and thats with a wheat beer I made to see if it helped with preventing the slowing of my recirculation with such adjuncts and it did a bit.
 
I would assume the thought being that if you're headed towards a stuck sparge your sightglass liquid will keep getting lower and lower. If that's the case how is that fixed?

Correct. You fix it like you would without it - slow down the recirculation, stir it, add rice hulls, or sometimes just wait a few more mins. It's not like stuck sparges happen all the time. For me, I have to be using something like pumpkin before it's really a problem. I crush at .45" and recirculate. If you have the right crush, all these supposed issues with sucking through the sight glass are mostly non-issues (heavy rye and pumpkin aside).

Besides, I have seen plenty of folks get similar problems without sight glasses. Search for 'mash rising' and you will see what happens when you pump too fast and create a vacuum under the false bottom (without a sight glass).

Again, there is nothing wrong with having a sight glass on a mashtun. It doesn't make your mash more or less likely to get stuck (or over sparge/under sparge). However, it sure is nice to see a visual indicator of what's happening.
 
this is EXACTLY what happens... unless your not recirulating and only gravity draining, it sucks all the liquid and then air through the SG as it offers the least amount of resistence to pull from.

This is why if you do a search here on this topic you will find this has been mentioned and discussed many times with some plugging and other removing the sight glass all together. Its also why a lot of systems dont offer it in the MT
Do you notice whats missing from ALL these MT options?
https://conical-fermenter.com/Mash-Tuns/

It absolutely no suprise that anything with the blichmann brand name on it right down to replacement orings and proprietary sized components to force you to use blichmann replacement parts cost more.

my FB was $45 with free shipping and it really does work fine. its not as heavy as the blichmann fb but it doesnt actually need to be for any legit reason and that was kind of the point. bayous first generation FB was too flimsy and there were some problems but I have the stronger one and have been using it for years with zero issues... Ive only ever used rice hulls once and thats with a wheat beer I made to see if it helped with preventing the slowing of my recirculation with such adjuncts and it did a bit.

While I'm not expecting my false bottom to be $45 where did you get your false bottom from? I don't need something that I can stand on, just something that'll hold all the grain that goes in a 20 gallon Bayou.
 
Correct. You fix it like you would without it - slow down the recirculation, stir it, add rice hulls, or sometimes just wait a few more mins. It's not like stuck sparges happen all the time. For me, I have to be using something like pumpkin before it's really a problem. I crush at .45" and recirculate. If you have the right crush, all these supposed issues with sucking through the sight glass are mostly non-issues (heavy rye and pumpkin aside).

Besides, I have seen plenty of folks get similar problems without sight glasses. Search for 'mash rising' and you will see what happens when you pump too fast and create a vacuum under the false bottom (without a sight glass).

Again, there is nothing wrong with having a sight glass on a mashtun. It doesn't make your mash more or less likely to get stuck (or over sparge/under sparge). However, it sure is nice to see a visual indicator of what's happening.
According to many of those that tried them they dont even read liquid levels in the grain correctly unless its just sitting there not recirculating for a good amount of time, So again if a person is going to use an uninsulated kettle for a mt they would normally be recirculating with another means to maintain temps.
So what benefit will the sight glass provide? You just have an additional weakness to get around with sucking air under the fb which messes up the hydraulic pulling effect which is beneficial towards the end of the sparge.
there is a good reason most mash tuns dont have them.
 
While I'm not expecting my false bottom to be $45 where did you get your false bottom from? I don't need something that I can stand on, just something that'll hold all the grain that goes in a 20 gallon Bayou.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bayou-Clas...670132&hash=item2ec138a406:g:RjEAAOSwDN1UNTtb

The one I got did not match the pictured one exactly is had the embossed top.
My MT is 16 gallons.
I wasnt aware that their was a 20 gallon bayou kettle?

does yours have the FB lip at the bottom like this one?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bayou-Clas...670375&hash=item284995f956:g:kdIAAOSwv-ZaMvE5
 
gotcha... different setup, not even sure bayou makes a FB for that one. thats pretty wide.. I assume you dont use this for 5 gallons do you? if so its got to be tough unless your still on gas?
 
According to many of those that tried them they dont even read liquid levels in the grain correctly unless its just sitting there not recirculating for a good amount of time, So again if a person is going to use an uninsulated kettle for a mt they would normally be recirculating with another means to maintain temps.
So what benefit will the sight glass provide? You just have an additional weakness to get around with sucking air under the fb which messes up the hydraulic pulling effect which is beneficial towards the end of the sparge.
there is a good reason most mash tuns dont have them.

The sight glass provides 3 main benefits: One, it accurately measures the mashing water volume before mashing. Two, it's relative movement up or down tells you how to match the incoming sparge water with the outgoing wort, and 3) it's movement will tell you the relative rate of your pumping vs mash permeability.

It's only when you have almost completely evacuated under the false bottom before it can even start to make sense that it will 'suck air'. As long as you maintain liquid under the false bottom, nothing is different than a mash tun without it.

If you are evacuating the liquid out of the bottom faster than it can flow though the grain, you will have the same problem as without it (pumps squealing, mash rising, etc.). I have no idea what you mean by 'hydraulic effect' - mine behaves the same as my SS Brewtech BIAB during recirculation (no sight glass). You would have to be pumping pretty hard for it to 'suck air'. I am not saying it's not possible, but it's not something I have seen. Again, the behavior is identical to what I have without a sight glass (my BIAB kit - where sparging doesn't matter).

I get you don't like the Blichmann. Truth be told, had some of the options on the market been available when I bought it in 2012, I would likely have gone for something else. However, they have been very troublefree pots for 5 years and I can't complain about any feature on them.

The OP can take my advice or not. I have my 3 pots in a Kal clone electric setup, so I am intimately familiar with recirculation and mashing on these things. Trust me, they work great.
 
gotcha... different setup, not even sure bayou makes a FB for that one. thats pretty wide.. I assume you dont use this for 5 gallons do you? if so its got to be tough unless your still on gas?

Yep, still on gas but that's going to change within a year. Like I said NorCal was the only place I could find them and they started at $165 vs $120 for the Blichmann that I can find anywhere. Looks like I might have a hop blocker for sale soon. Ha.
 
The sight glass provides 3 main benefits: One, it accurately measures the mashing water volume before mashing. Two, it's relative movement up or down tells you how to match the incoming sparge water with the outgoing wort, and 3) it's movement will tell you the relative rate of your pumping vs mash permeability.

It's only when you have almost completely evacuated under the false bottom before it can even start to make sense that it will 'suck air'. As long as you maintain liquid under the false bottom, nothing is different than a mash tun without it.

If you are evacuating the liquid out of the bottom faster than it can flow though the grain, you will have the same problem as without it (pumps squealing, mash rising, etc.). I have no idea what you mean by 'hydraulic effect' - mine behaves the same as my SS Brewtech BIAB during recirculation (no sight glass). You would have to be pumping pretty hard for it to 'suck air'. I am not saying it's not possible, but it's not something I have seen. Again, the behavior is identical to what I have without a sight glass (my BIAB kit - where sparging doesn't matter).

I get you don't like the Blichmann. Truth be told, had some of the options on the market been available when I bought it in 2012, I would likely have gone for something else. However, they have been very troublefree pots for 5 years and I can't complain about any feature on them.

The OP can take my advice or not. I have my 3 pots in a Kal clone electric setup, so I am intimately familiar with recirculation and mashing on these things. Trust me, they work great.

I'm about 90% sure I'll be using the Blichmann as the mash tun moving forward. Not only do I not have to put any more holes in the pot but I got it for an absolute steal. I'm moving towards a Kal clone myself so it's nice to know one pot is almost done.

I appreciate the information from everyone and will move forward unless I come back and find other reasons not to have the Blichmann as my mash tun.
 
The sight glass provides 3 main benefits: One, it accurately measures the mashing water volume before mashing. Two, it's relative movement up or down tells you how to match the incoming sparge water with the outgoing wort, and 3) it's movement will tell you the relative rate of your pumping vs mash permeability.

It's only when you have almost completely evacuated under the false bottom before it can even start to make sense that it will 'suck air'. As long as you maintain liquid under the false bottom, nothing is different than a mash tun without it.

If you are evacuating the liquid out of the bottom faster than it can flow though the grain, you will have the same problem as without it (pumps squealing, mash rising, etc.). I have no idea what you mean by 'hydraulic effect' - mine behaves the same as my SS Brewtech BIAB during recirculation (no sight glass). You would have to be pumping pretty hard for it to 'suck air'. I am not saying it's not possible, but it's not something I have seen. Again, the behavior is identical to what I have without a sight glass (my BIAB kit - where sparging doesn't matter).

I get you don't like the Blichmann. Truth be told, had some of the options on the market been available when I bought it in 2012, I would likely have gone for something else. However, they have been very troublefree pots for 5 years and I can't complain about any feature on them.

The OP can take my advice or not. I have my 3 pots in a Kal clone electric setup, so I am intimately familiar with recirculation and mashing on these things. Trust me, they work great.
I just use the sightglasses in my HLT and BK for your 3 stated purposes.. as I stated earlier I dont believe the liquid level your seeing in it is a accurate real time reflection of whats in the grain bed but I could be wrong... just stating what others have told me that tried it.
 
I just use the sightglasses in my HLT and BK for your 3 stated purposes.. as I stated earlier I dont believe the liquid level your seeing in it is a accurate real time reflection of whats in the grain bed but I could be wrong... just stating what others have told me that tried it.

Your sight glasses must go very low and very high. Mine won't fill until 3 or 4 gals, so you have no idea how fast you are going for the first runnings. Reverse problem for HLT, as volume won't register the first gal or so since I overfill my pot to 20+ gals and sight glass goes to 19. Oh well.
 
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