Kauai_Kahuna
Well-Known Member
Sirsloop, thanks for the update. I think I may include the flashing, might be more durable than tin foil, as long as it works.
No, I haven't tried the stuff yet -- sorry man.I'm trying to full boil on a gas stove and I've hit the same 'simmer-no-boil' point. Did the thermo-tec (or the durablanket) work out for you, Flyguy?
Sounds about right for an electric stove.
It may be a PITA, but maybe you could split the 5 gallons of water into 2 batches, to heat at the same time, in less total time, then combine the water together when you throw everything else into the pot.
+1 to this. I think as long as there's some way for the DMS to escape, your beer will be fine. I've made some really good beer whilst half-covering the pot during the boil - it helps keep the boil fierce but still allows the nasty stuff to evaporate off.Also, insulate your lid, and keep it on until it starts boiling, then keep it half on. I haven't had any problems with this.
So I was searching around online and found the stuff that I should have used on my pot for the stovetop. If anyone's interested, here's a link to a site to buy online:
Heat/Sound Insulation : JC Whitney: Auto Parts & Accessories
They say its the stuff that NASA uses to protect the shuttles!
I guess I'll use the other stuff to wrap my pipes...
Ok... Here's the dealy. I just got a new 40qt stock pot in and successfully boiled 6 gallons of 1.050 wort with it on a crappy gas range in a 750sqft apartment. I made up a little wrap thingy of my own and it held up GREAT!
So I got this insulation stuff off Ebay, but apparently it can only hold up to 180°F. When I got it I was bummed cause there was what looked like weak plastic on the inside. I knew this would not hold up to any kind of direct flame so I made a Lowe's trip with the intent to armor up. Cost was 19.99 and there's enough for AT LEAST another pot.
...snip...
Must be the gearhead in me but the first thing that came to mind when looking to keep heat in was header wrap Exhaust - summitracing.com There's copper and ceramic and they work up to 2000 degrees!
Foam Control: I gotta put another plug in for this stuff. Magic. I had that turkey fryer pot within an inch and a half of the rim, and there was no danger of boiling over at ANY point in the process. Highly recommended stuff! Turns your 30 qt pot into a 40!!!
I know the thread died, but this looks really promising for you electric brewery guys:
Mcmaster.com
9349K2
Foam Rubber Insulation Plain Back, 1/2" Thick, 36" X 48" Sheet, Black
In stock at $18.88 Each
This is enough to do two sanke sized kettles 18" high by 48" around. A little high temp duct tape at the seam and you're golden... remove it when you want to or not..
Ultra-Flexible Foam Rubber Insulation
Fiberglass Faced
Temperature Range: Uncoated Plain Back, -20° to +220° F; Uncoated Adhesive Backed, +20° to +180° F; Fiberglass Faced, -297° to +220° F
Heat Flow Rate (K-factor): 0.27 Btu/hr. x in./sq. ft. @75° F
Density: 3-6 lbs./cu. ft.
Color: Uncoated, black; Fiberglass Faced, black with silver jacket
Wrap this foam insulation around ducts and large diameter pipesit's moisture resistant and extremely flexible and soft. Insulation is made of closed-cell elastomeric Buna-N/PVC foam. Cut with a knife. Meets ASTM E84 25/50 for flame and smoke. Size is 36" x 48", unless noted.
Install plain back insulation with contact adhesive (sold separately below).
Uncoated insulation is for indoor use; can be used outdoors if coated with latex paint (sold separately below). Fiberglass-faced insulation is impregnated with aluminum for impact resistance. Use indoors and out.
Combined with an insulated lid, and maybe that Caldera cone setup, there are some good ideas in this thread. Need to get busy and test various options.
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