Igloo FRF472 Keezer build and a few questions

[TheBeerNerd]

I've finally decided it's time to start kegging. I've being seriously thinking about going pro some day (I used to work in a brewery) and I need to start brewing more often. The thing that holds me back most is finding the time to bottle. I figure this investment will pay itself off in time saved pretty quick.
I just picked up an Igloo FRF472 7.2 cu ft freezer on sale at Best Buy for $170. I'm creating this thread to document the build and also for a place to ask questions. There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of info on this particular freezer on HBT aside from measurements( here ), so I hope this can help people in the future.

Here's the freezer as it is now:

A few things I've decided:
- I'm going to hardwire an STC 1000 in place of the thermostat. I already have the controller from another project that didn't pan out.
- I will be removing the lid completely and building a new lid with a 3 tap draft tower instead of a collar.
- I'm going with pin lock kegs due to price and availability. I'll only be able to fit four after the new lid is on... 3 serving and one chilling.

Here's a few questions I have right from the start:
-Has anyone had problems with the stock freezer hinges failing due to holding up a heavier lid/collar?
- I'm thinking about picking up one of the cheap 7lb co2 tanks. It will fit nicely in the corner once the new lid is on. To those who have bought these... have you had any trouble getting them filled? Guy at my local Matheson told me since it's a converted tank, they most likely won't touch it and nobody else will either due to strict certification requirements. Are these tanks clearly marked that they've been re-certified for co2?
- This freezer got some bad reviews on bestbuy.com (about 30% of the reviews were 2 or less stars). Pretty much all of these reviews had to do with the auto-defrost failing, which causes the coils to freeze and stop cooling. I figured since it will be set at refrigeration temps, this shouldn't be much of an issue. Am I correct about this? Though, even if this freezer fails, I've noted that all 7cu ft class freezers are about the same size and it should be simple to swap my build over if need be... I'd rather not have it fail in the first place.
- I've noticed a lot of people who have built their own draft towers. What height should the taps be at?

Thanks in advance for the advice .

I have most of the materials to start on the lid and draft tower. I should be able to get started soon. I'm on a pretty tight budget until my tax return comes, so it's probably going to be a little while until I can get all of the kegs, plumbing and co2 parts... there will be breaks in the progress... but that's life, right?

 

[TheBeerNerd]

Bump...

One more question...

I see a lot of people converting pin locks to ball locks. If I set up for pin lock kegs (certainly cheaper to do so), is there a keg conversion kit to do the reverse if I end up finding ball locks at a price I can't pass up... converting a ball lock to a pin lock? Or do people usually switch couplers in this case?

 

[TheBeerNerd]

Anyone?

 

[TheBeerNerd]

Well, I had a minor disaster involving an ice dam and roof leak, so I haven't been able to get much done on the keezer.

I did, however, find these on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131086918699

I picked up 4 of them, as the price was too good to pass up. The plan is to couple them together and build a bulkhead through the lid so I can keep a 20# tank outside the keezer. 3 of them will be for serving and one for force carbing a 4th keg. I already have the high pressure hose I need.

I'm guessing these regulators have a check valve already installed on the output, correct? Is there a shut off valve available that will attach to the 1/4" MFL? I can't seem to find any online.

 

[iijakii]

Bump...

One more question...

I see a lot of people converting pin locks to ball locks. If I set up for pin lock kegs (certainly cheaper to do so), is there a keg conversion kit to do the reverse if I end up finding ball locks at a price I can't pass up... converting a ball lock to a pin lock? Or do people usually switch couplers in this case?

Just go pin lock and enjoy the cheaper kegs. If you wind up getting some ball locks trade them at a profit for pinlocks. People do it all the time and I have no idea why. You can also buy the posts for either online and convert them to and fro.

 

[TheBeerNerd]

Just go pin lock and enjoy the cheaper kegs. If you wind up getting some ball locks trade them at a profit for pinlocks. People do it all the time and I have no idea why. You can also buy the posts for either online and convert them to and fro.

That sounds like the way to go. I've seen a few folks setups on here in the last few days that use the 1/4mfl QDs. Think this is what I'll do. Thanks!

Today I scored a pin lock keg with QDs off Craigslist for $35.

 

[TheBeerNerd]

Time for an update!
With the weather as crazy as it's been, I hadn't gotten much done until today. My workshop is unheated and I prefer to cut wood in the driveway when I can, in order to keep the mess down. I did some small tasks, like fitting barb connectors to beverage line and assembling a quad regulator from 4 primaries I found cheap on eBay. Today was almost 50 degrees and sunny... a welcome change.
Anyway, here's the build so far:

First thing I did was put together a dolly so the keezer can be easily pulled away from the wall with full kegs. I didn't want to add too much height in this area, so I opted for ball transfers from McMaster Carr (#2415t25) instead of traditional casters. They hold up to 135 lbs... the keezer, at it's absolute heaviest, will be around 350 lbs I estimate, so with even weight distribution, each one shouldn't need to hold more than 90. We'll see how well they work out.

As I mentioned before, I'm on a budget. Thus, I decided to build the lid from new finish pine boards and re-purposed OSB I had lying around. All the internal framing is done with 3/4" aluminum angle to save a bit of weight and space. I know the pine is soft wood, so I reinforced every joint with glue and finish nails. Also, I live in an old colonial and pretty much everything in my house is finished pine. It'll match. I'm hoping I don't regret this decision down the road.

Outer frame assembled and test fit:

Another view, you can see the rearmost board, where the hinges attach, has been reinforced with OSB. The hinge bolts will pass through a stainless plate as well, in order to make the strongest possible connection and spread out the weight over a wider area.

Here's the lid with the OSB decking on. The top will be finished in tile. The drip tray is on there for reference, as the coffin box will be the same width.

As it sits, on the dolly:

There it is so far. It's not perfect, but it's not finished

Snow is in the forecast again tomorrow , and I have the day off again. I think my time might be best spent cleaning and rebuilding the 5 pin lock kegs I've since acquired.

Oh yeah, I bought a 20# CO2 tank from Scott. He's the man to go to for tanks.

 

[TheBeerNerd]

When I got home from work today, I dug out the temp controller and hooked it up to test it out. Turns out the controller I had on hand was a Willhi single stage... similar to the STC-1000, but only does heating OR cooling, not both. That's ok, I'm only cooling here.
The pin outs are numbered differently on the Willhi. Pins 1 & 2 correspond to 7 & 8 on the STC, 3 & 4 correspond to 1 & 2. This method seems to be working.

I also made a diagram, hope it can help folks in the future.

I'm going to head out to Radio Shack tomorrow and buy a 120v lamp to replace the stock run light... I could probably cut it out entirely, but it will be nice to use it to see if the controller is working properly down the road. I plan to make a wooden face plate for the controller tomorrow and get it permanently installed. If the weather if nice enough, I'm hoping to get the coffin box built as well.

 

[TheBeerNerd]

Got the coffin mostly built today. Here's a quick test fit:

 

[TheBeerNerd]

Temp control installed.

 

[pdlove]

Looking good so far!
How did the rollers work out?
Also, did you insulate your lid?
Thanks for the idea on simply removing the original lid altogether. It makes it easier to convert it back into a deep freeze when I decide to make a bigger one or to send the freezer back for replacement if it goes out.
Did you do any tests on the original thermostat to see how stable the temperature was with it or just decided to forgo it under the expectation that it wasn't good enough.
I'm going to be starting my own keezer build very soon and would love to see your progress on this.
My biggest concern is how the pin lock kegs fit in it. I assume you are getting 3 in the deep floor and 1 on the hump?