Icemaster Max 4 Troubleshooting and Issues

[Mike Howard]

I've been digging around on the forums and looking for general online repair discussions about the Brewbuilt Icemaster Max 4 chiller and so far there is not a lot of information. So, since one of my two Max4's has started to have issues, I'm going to try and post information here that might be useful for others who could eventually run into some of the same issues.

I've been running two Max 4's for about 2 years, handling four 1 BBL fermenters on one unit and two 1 BBL fermenters and one 1 BBL brite tank on the other. I run the chillers at -6C (21F), even though the recommened lowest temp is -2C, as that temp seems to be able to handle what I need in these Texas summers. I run a 60/30 blend of water to glycol so I don't have any icing issues.

Yesterday I found one of the chillers was not cooling as it should. I have two active fermentations going on, one was set to cold crash at 38F and the other is at a diacetyl rest at 75F. The temp reading on the main controller was at 10C and while the one fermenter was reading 75F where it should, the other was reading 55F, when the day before it had been at 38F. So the unit appears to be cooling, just not at the level it should be.

I've read about some issues online that point to the chiller controller or the temp probe, but that doesn't seem to be my issue (although I'm just now starting to troubleshoot). So this is where my unit is before I start digging into it to see what is wrong:

The compressor seems to be running (it is hot to the touch and feels like it is running)
The compressor fan is running and blowing hot air across the coils.
The coils do look a bit dirty, but not plugged.
The internal coolant feels cool, but not cold.

I'll update this thread as I proceed through steps to try and figure out what is wrong (hoping it isn't low refrigerant or the compressor)

 

[Mike Howard]

First checks and some pics.

I took off the lower left cover and first thing I noticed was that the Yellow wire (Ground) was disconnected from the plug. Not really the issue and that could have been unattached ever since I received the chiller. I reattached it anyway, but there was no change in the units performance.



The unit had cooled down a bit more since I left it, but it was still sitting at 4C, when the setpoint was at -6C. The unit is cooling, just not to where it should be and I did notice that the controller was not calling for cooling, as indicated by the lack of the "Cool" LED being illuminated. I also noticed that the fan was not on and the compressor was not running.



I checked the temperature of the glycol bath around the coils and it was reading around 34F which is 1C, so there is a slight discrepancy of around 6 degrees. Not sure of the calibration of either my meter or the temp probe/controller, but 6 degrees seems like a lot for unit designed to control fermentation temps. No icing was observed around the coils, but obviously it isn't that cold.



The system had been able to keep my fermenters wthin 1 or 2 degrees of setpoint, even during the multiple 100F degree days we have had in Texas this year. These units are sitting in an uninsulated building, which is slightly cooled, but temps can reach the mid 90's in there during the summer and even hotter during the days I'm brewing. But this chiller is struggling to get to 38F to cold crash my American Stout.



I was able to transfer one of the fermenters contents to a Brite tank and maybe that will have allowed the other tank to reach my cold crash temperatures, but something is obviously not working. My other Icemaster Max 4 is still running like a champ with one fermenter sitting at 68F, one stting at 38F and now the Brite tank sitting at 38F, the controller is set to -2C and the readout is sitting at -2C. These units are defintely beasts and I would highly recommend them, as I have said they are working with no issues for over 2 years. But as with everything you buy these days, they don't last forever. Hopefully I can figure this issue out and get back to chilling.

So I'll be continuing my troubleshooting in the following order:

Locate and Clean the Temperature Probe in the glycol bath
Reseat the Temperature probe in the unit Controller
Replace the Temperature Probe in the glycol bath
Replace the unit Controller (would love to replace it with a Fahrenheit version and maybe one that has WiFi connectivity like this SmartPID)
Replace the Run/Start Capacitor
Have a Technician from our local Refigerant Equipment repair facility come out and check/top off the refrigerant level.

 

[Mike Howard]

FYI, here is the manual for future reference.

 

[Mike Howard]

So I have been unable to get inside the glycol coil chamber, as I still have a fermentation in progress and didn't want to cause any further issues. I did calibrate the glycol bath and the unit controller as my temperature reading was about 0.8C different (using my uncalibrated Inkbird thermometer), but at least now I can compare the two readings easily. Now the controller is reading around -2C to -1.8C and appears stable and my fermentation controller is reading 38.9F with a set point of 38F.

So maybe I have a faulty temperature probe? Or as I read somewhere else that someone had an issue with one of the pumps causing an electrical issue in the probes? That might also be true as the unit appears to be working a bit better since I shut down Pump 1 and I currently only have Pump 2 running. If that's the case I might switch to this PUMP if the voltages are the same.

Once my fermentation is complete and I have transferred the contents to my Brite tank, I'll remove the top and get a look inside the coil chamber. I'm still a bit skeptical that it isn't a low refigerant issue, but I sure hope it isn't.

 

[Mike Howard]

From MoreBeer, here are the available replacement parts:

GLY354P - Replacement Temperature Probe for BrewBuilt Icemaster Max 4 & Max 2. This is the probe that plugs into the Pump controllers that maintains your fermenter/brite tank temps.

GLY351C - Replacement Reservoir Temp Controller for Icemaster 100, Max 4, Max 2. This is a standard STC1000, they don't have a part number for a separate temperature probe.

GLY354PC - Replacement Pump Controller for IceMaster Max 2 & Max 4. - These are specific and different between the two units.

GLY354S - Replacement Submersible Pump for IceMaster Max 2 & Max 4

 

[Mike Howard]

Based on price from Morebeer, looks like this ITC-1000 is the way to go for a replacement refrigerant temp controller and it comes with a sensor and conveniently switches between C and F.

 

[Mike Howard]

I purchased a couple of these sensors to monitor the glycol reservoir on both machines. I used a known good temperature probe and calibrated both the Ice Master Glycol Controller and the new temp sensors so they match. I am now monitoring the units with a range of 25F - 32F, although my one unit that was giving me issues is not currently being used by any fermenters, but that is about to change.

 

[J.T.Brewer]

Hey, do you have any updates? I'm looking into the icemaster max 4. I'm hoping she can handle the hot summers here in aus as it'll be in a hot shed out the back. Did you continue to have issues with 1 of the units?

 

[Mike Howard]

Hey, do you have any updates? I'm looking into the icemaster max 4. I'm hoping she can handle the hot summers here in aus as it'll be in a hot shed out the back. Did you continue to have issues with 1 of the units?

I switched out the main controller to the ITC-1000 and the temp control was much better. I will say, these units are best used with less than 1 BBL fermenters, as this has been my experience. I have three, 1 BBL Fermenters and one 1/2 BBL fermenter, attached to one of these units. In the Texas summer I can easily keep all 4 ferms in the mid 60's (with the controller set at 28F), but the unit was unable to maintain cold crash temps of 38F for even one ferm.

The lowest I could get was 49F when the outside temp was near 100F and the internal temp ranged from 75F to 95F, in my partially climate controlled brewery. Only after I transferred between the ferm and a brite for a couple of my beers, was the unit able to get down to CC temps. It can easily handle two 1 BBL ferms at both ferm temps and CC temps, so I imagine four 1/2 BBL ferms would be ok.

What I have to do in the summer months is to stagger my production days so that there are only three ferms with product in them during any CC process. So basically, I transfer one of the four ferms contents to my brite, on the same day I start a CC on a different ferm and don't refill the ferm until the CC process is complete.

 

[J.T.Brewer]

I switched out the main controller to the ITC-1000 and the temp control was much better. I will say, these units are best used with less than 1 BBL fermenters, as this has been my experience. I have three, 1 BBL Fermenters and one 1/2 BBL fermenter, attached to one of these units. In the Texas summer I can easily keep all 4 ferms in the mid 60's (with the controller set at 28F), but the unit was unable to maintain cold crash temps of 38F for even one ferm.

The lowest I could get was 49F when the outside temp was near 100F and the internal temp ranged from 75F to 95F, in my partially climate controlled brewery. Only after I transferred between the ferm and a brite for a couple of my beers, was the unit able to get down to CC temps. It can easily handle two 1 BBL ferms at both ferm temps and CC temps, so I imagine four 1/2 BBL ferms would be ok.

What I have to do in the summer months is to stagger my production days so that there are only three ferms with product in them during any CC process. So basically, I transfer one of the four ferms contents to my brite, on the same day I start a CC on a different ferm and don't refill the ferm until the CC process is complete.

So are the 2 original units still in use? They would be about 3 years old now?
I currently only have 1x 1/2 BBL conical but plan to get a second. So at most ill be wanting to CC 1BBL volume at once. I am not too worried if I can't get to 32° just looking to drop majority of hops out. They are not insulated tho. And they will be in an outdoor shed that will be subject to the elements so will get very hot in summer and very cold in winter. I plan to possibly build a basic foam insulation sheet ferm chamber so they won't be as affected from the radiating heat of the tin sheets.

 

[Mike Howard]

So are the 2 original units still in use? They would be about 3 years old now?
I currently only have 1x 1/2 BBL conical but plan to get a second. So at most ill be wanting to CC 1BBL volume at once. I am not too worried if I can't get to 32° just looking to drop majority of hops out. They are not insulated tho. And they will be in an outdoor shed that will be subject to the elements so will get very hot in summer and very cold in winter. I plan to possibly build a basic foam insulation sheet ferm chamber so they won't be as affected from the radiating heat of the tin sheets.

Yes, these two units are still in production operation. I purchased both units in July of 2020.

I have three, 1 BBL, uninsulated, SS BrewTech ferms and one uninsulated SS Brewtech,1/2 BBL Uni connected to one of the chillers, and one 1 BBL, uninsulated (except for the foam cover), SS BrewTech brite and two 1 BBL, uninsulated ferms connected to the other chiller. They are working quite well, given the issues I've had and the process changes that I had to make.

I am very happy with them and would gladly purchase another as the price point makes them ideal. No issues, other than what I have posted about, which I believe is a combination of a faulty controller and the high temperatures that we get here in Texas.

 

[J.T.Brewer]

Yes, these two units are still in production operation. I purchased both units in July of 2020.

I have three, 1 BBL, uninsulated, SS BrewTech ferms and one uninsulated SS Brewtech,1/2 BBL Uni connected to one of the chillers, and one 1 BBL, uninsulated (except for the foam cover), SS BrewTech brite and two 1 BBL, uninsulated ferms connected to the other chiller. They are working quite well, given the issues I've had and the process changes that I had to make.

I am very happy with them and would gladly purchase another as the price point makes them ideal. No issues, other than what I have posted about, which I believe is a combination of a faulty controller and the high temperatures that we get here in Texas.

I appreciate the feedback. I do plan on getting a second FV and maybe a third eventually so fridges dont seem practical for a few reasons. Middle of summer will be the biggest test with the shed not being climate controlled. Once my budget allows i will probably add insulation to the shed.