ICEMASTER MAX 2

[mggray87]

First calibrate the glycol bath probe as it seems to be a off by at least 1C but make sure you stir it really well to avoid testing a hot spot with your instant read. After that, try running the glycol tank at -3C for a while. Most find that the best cold crash they can get is done with 26F glycol. It's right on the edge of freezing the beer at the coil surface.

Ok so still tackling it. I have both of my 7g unitank 2.0s at 40f this morning. Which I had it set. Now slowly dropping it to 38 see if they both go. I had to do this slowly. Started at 50 then 45. Then 40 so it has a chance to get to temp and the glycol to get to a really cold temp. Otherwise it just runs runs. Also I calibrated the glycol temp when it was at say 4*c. It's accurate. But when I have it set to -2.0c it only got to 36. And compressor was off. So I assume the probe in there somewhere is on a coil or close to it. I'm testing in the center of the glycol. Last night I dropped the controller to -3c as mentioned. This morning the compressor was off but the glycol solution was 29*f. I just dropped it to -3.5*c and I'm I'm waiting for it to drop unitanks to 38* and then test the glycol temp to see where that puts the temp inside there.

What cold crash temp should I aim for? 38*? Low enough or should I try to see if it can reach 36?

I'm guessing peak summer this will be impossible but if it does both at once. It should do one batch.. I'd think

 

[jnecessary]

Ok so still tackling it. I have both of my 7g unitank 2.0s at 40f this morning. Which I had it set. Now slowly dropping it to 38 see if they both go. I had to do this slowly. Started at 50 then 45. Then 40 so it has a chance to get to temp and the glycol to get to a really cold temp. Otherwise it just runs runs. Also I calibrated the glycol temp when it was at say 4*c. It's accurate. But when I have it set to -2.0c it only got to 36. And compressor was off. So I assume the probe in there somewhere is on a coil or close to it. I'm testing in the center of the glycol. Last night I dropped the controller to -3c as mentioned. This morning the compressor was off but the glycol solution was 29*f. I just dropped it to -3.5*c and I'm I'm waiting for it to drop unitanks to 38* and then test the glycol temp to see where that puts the temp inside there.

What cold crash temp should I aim for? 38*? Low enough or should I try to see if it can reach 36?

I'm guessing peak summer this will be impossible but if it does both at once. It should do one batch.. I'd think

I go as low as my fermenters can go without the glycol machine running constantly. For me, that's 35 in one tank and 37-38 in another (it has a much less efficient cooling coil design). With good coils or a jacket I think 35 in two 10-15 gallon fermenters would be achievable without nonstop running. With some reflectix insulation around my fermenters as well.

 

[WesBrew]

Revisiting the idea of changing the fittings on the machine to stainless quick disconnect. the four fittings are 1/4 npt i think. bulkhead with nut on the back side, 3/8 barbs on both ends.
Was thinking of using a 1/4 npt nipple but not sure if they have QD that will fit that thread.

 

[Deadalus]

Revisiting the idea of changing the fittings on the machine to stainless quick disconnect. the four fittings are 1/4 npt i think. bulkhead with nut on the back side, 3/8 barbs on both ends.
Was thinking of using a 1/4 npt nipple but not sure if they have QD that will fit that thread.

They are probably just pass through barbed bulkheads, a barbed coupling with threads for the nut. That's what are on my Icemaster 100. You could just enlarge the hole for another size NPT. I have use a few different types of 3/8" SS barbed fittings, one of them is a 3/8" barbed QD on my sparge arm. I also have a SS 1/2" NPT x 3/8" barb on my glycol pumps. Personally, I went with valved acetal QDs at the coils. You can disconnect and they won't leak.

 

[WesBrew]

yes, i prob didn't describe it that well but ….this

 

[Deadalus]

yes, i prob didn't describe it that well but ….thisView attachment 844865

I didn't know what they were called either until I started looking for them. I ended up putting additional ones on the inside cover of mine to get the tubing to the tank. I recommend something valved though as the valves close the line when you disconnect and it avoid spills. These insulated lines sold by Brewbuilt have if not the same one I linked a very similar one. They are barbed though. I didn't look for anything like them in SS and/or NPT. The insulation, lines, valved QDs, and internal pass through bulkheads were already extra money so I stuck with the barbs. Also because 3/8' doesn't have as many options at home brew stores, mostly 1/2", and the coils are 3/8" usually.

 

[WesBrew]

super day. Went to screw in the pump control panel and button this up. The little screw made an incredible one hop into the tub. Had to unscrew the cover, then all four hoses, then all four bulkheads, then bend the tabs to get cover off….
I found a worm drive clsmp i dropped in there two years ago. Rusted, so i cleaned out the tub.

 

[WesBrew]

Heres the inside if snyone is curious….

 

[Whisky River]

Not trying to be rude and I appreciate you sharing your pictures, but is that level of gunk and sludge normal for this type of glycol chiller?

 

[WesBrew]

Not trying to be rude and I appreciate you sharing your pictures, but is that level of gunk and sludge normal for this type of glycol chiller?

A metal band clamp had fallen in there some time ago and rusted. I think that is where the murky water is coming from. The blue/green on the hoses? I don't know if its normal or not.

 

[Deadalus]

This is the inside of the Icemaster 100 where I put the second set of pass through bulkheads. This model is used as beer chiller in Australia. There is a pump in the upper cavity and then stainless steel tubing is coiled down in the glycol tank. It's like a jockey box.

The second pic has that inner lid taken off. The inner lid has a small hinged door on it like the top but not enough room really for all the lines to get through the cutout where the copper comes through.

These last two are those valved QDs.

 

[WesBrew]

Mine looked like a cesspool inside in comparison. I cleaned it out as best I could. Heavy built up rust spot on the bottom from that clamp rusting.Most likely from replacing the interior hose clamps with Oitker clamps in '22. I don't recall what glycol I used but its possible it was uninhibited. Likely I guess based on visual.
Time to refill and i think ill go with those valved disconnects on the chiller end. The SS QDs i was looking at were going to require drilling and cost around $95.

 

[Deadalus]

Mine looked like a cesspool inside in comparison. I cleaned it out as best I could. Heavy built up rust spot on the bottom from that clamp rusting.Most likely from replacing the interior hose clamps with Oitker clamps in '22. I don't recall what glycol I used but its possible it was uninhibited. Likely I guess based on visual.
Time to refill and i think ill go with those valved disconnects on the chiller end. The SS QDs i was looking at were going to require drilling and cost around $95.

No worries, mine is brand new. I'd avoid the dual kind where the two males are paired and two females paired as they don't flip over as far as I know. You can't reverse the flow with the duals. Now I have to check which glycol I bought...

 

[jnecessary]

No worries, mine is brand new. I'd avoid the dual kind where the two males are paired and two females paired as they don't flip over as far as I know. You can't reverse the flow with the duals. Now I have to check which glycol I bought...

I just got the SS dual connectors. Haven't attached them yet, but my plan is basically what you did, but have 3-4" of flexible hose off my 90's coming out of the cooling coil. That would allow you to swap the flow direction if needed. I'd question at my 10 gallon scale if it much matters though.

 

[WesBrew]

Since I've got my unit stored in a finished room, I want to install the QDs at the machine so the tubes fan be removed and put away. I'm not sure which direction I'm going to orient them. I might have valved female body on the hose end as Deadulus has. Probably no issue with the male insert open at the bulkhead. Do those with the valved QDs on the tubes drain them back into the machine (assuming you can open the fitting by pressing the button) or just leave the glycol in the tube/coil assembly?

 

[Deadalus]

I just got the SS dual connectors. Haven't attached them yet, but my plan is basically what you did, but have 3-4" of flexible hose off my 90's coming out of the cooling coil. That would allow you to swap the flow direction if needed. I'd question at my 10 gallon scale if it much matters though.

I haven't seen anything in SS that is a dual connector but the plastic (acetal) ones I found (only a few) all seemed to insert in only one position. This would disallow changing the direction because they couldn't be flipped at the QD. The plastic ones look like this, that's the female. Are you using dual the same way? It's entirely possible that you are I just want to clarify.

On my first batch, I cold crashed down to a set point of 34 but was stuck at 36.7F. I think I went in and changed the differential(+/-) to 2 degrees but it didn't move. So I lowered the set point to 33F and it didn't move. My Icemaster 100 only uses Celsius, and I am still familiarizing my brain with the degrees Celsius and Fahrenheit equivalents. I was positive Celsius though. I went ahead and flipped the lines but then I also set the glycol unit lower. It's possible I was stuck at 36.7F because that was as low as possible due to ambient temperature but it's possible I had an inversion. I have the glycol unit on -2 and I was able to get it down to 34F. Just a small uni though at 7 gallons (alone). I did do a yeast dump at 36.7 but it didn't seem to have a lot of hops in it, barely any. I will do another one later as I want to drop the hops out.

 

[Deadalus]

Since I've got my unit stored in a finished room, I want to install the QDs at the machine. I'm not sure which direction I'm going to orient them. I might have valved body on the hose=end as Deadulus has. Probably no issue with the insert open at the bulkhead. Do those with the valved QDs on the tubes drain them back into the machine (assuming you can open the fitting by pressing the button) or just leave the glycol in the tube/coil assembly?

It appears that the button just unlocks them. It is probably the tip configuration that triggers the valve. I disconnected and then pushed the locking mechanism but nothing came out and no air went into the lines. I was expecting to leave the glycol in the lines anyway.

Three factors in my placement decision. First, I didn't want to buy another set to be able to disconnect at the coil and the glycol unit. Second, even though I have a CIP ball, I expect that the coils may need extra cleaning. So I didn't want the long end on the coil. Last, I put the male side on the coils because I am used to my hoses on my brew rig having the female fitting.

 

[WesBrew]

It appears that the button just unlocks them. It is probably the tip configuration that triggers the valve. I disconnected and then pushed the locking mechanism but nothing came out and no air went into the lines. I was expecting to leave the glycol in the lines anyway.

Three factors in my placement decision. First, I didn't want to buy another set to be able to disconnect at the coil and the glycol unit. Second, even though I have a CIP ball, I expect that the coils may need extra cleaning. So I didn't want the long end on the coil. Last, I put the male side on the coils because I am used to my hoses on my brew rig having the female fitting.

I have duotights on the coil end of the tubes that are open. Maybe it will drain when disconnected from coil with the other QD end closed. Eh, i think ill just reverse that and put the valve female end on the chiller bulkhead and the male end on the tubes. Im looking to take the tubes off chiller, drain tubes & coil back into chiller and store both empty when not in use.

 

[jnecessary]

I haven't seen anything in SS that is a dual connector but the plastic (acetal) ones I found (only a few) all seemed to insert in only one position. This would disallow changing the direction because they couldn't be flipped at the QD. The plastic ones look like this, that's the female. Are you using dual the same way? It's entirely possible that you are I just want to clarify.

On my first batch, I cold crashed down to a set point of 34 but was stuck at 36.7F. I think I went in and changed the differential(+/-) to 2 degrees but it didn't move. So I lowered the set point to 33F and it didn't move. My Icemaster 100 only uses Celsius, and I am still familiarizing my brain with the degrees Celsius and Fahrenheit equivalents. I was positive Celsius though. I went ahead and flipped the lines but then I also set the glycol unit lower. It's possible I was stuck at 36.7F because that was as low as possible due to ambient temperature but it's possible I had an inversion. I have the glycol unit on -2 and I was able to get it down to 34F. Just a small uni though at 7 gallons (alone). I did do a yeast dump at 36.7 but it didn't seem to have a lot of hops in it, barely any. I will do another one later as I want to drop the hops out.View attachment 845230

You are correct! I didn't look at the valve, only had it in my mind that only one end was a dual connection (dumb). I suppose I'll need to read a bit about the optimal flow direction before committing to the install.

 

[Deadalus]

You are correct! I didn't look at the valve, only had it in my mind that only one end was a dual connection (dumb). I suppose I'll need to read a bit about the optimal flow direction before committing to the install.

I considered mixing a dual (male or female) and two single male or female Qds but the duals all seem to have some sort of lock/guide that only allows insertion in one position to prevent mixing up the flow direction.

 

[WesBrew]

I went this way. Hopefully works out

 

[jnecessary]

I went this way. Hopefully works out
View attachment 845460

Love it!

I think I'll add 90s to the front of the cooler and to my fermenter coils. Might restrict flow a bit but will be tidier and easier to manage.

 

[WesBrew]

Love it!

I think I'll add 90s to the front of the cooler and to my fermenter coils. Might restrict flow a bit but will be tidier and easier to manage.

I did that last year and love it. 90* elbows, Duotight fittings. I used short pieces I cut off of an old racking cane to connect them to the tubes.

 

[WesBrew]

I got blinking EE codes on both pump controllers. I cant find anything on it. Ideas? Pumps wont turn on. I seem to be able to set the temperature but it goes back to the ee and doesnt turn on. The glycol bath chilled down nicely.

 

[Indian_villager]

I got blinking EE codes on both pump controllers. I cant find anything on it. Ideas? Pumps wont turn on. I seem to be able to set the temperature but it goes back to the ee and doesnt turn on. The glycol bath chilled down nicely.

https://www.homebrewworks.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/STC-Instructions.pdf

Your temp probe wires may be damaged and are reading an open circuit to the controller.

 

[WesBrew]

Going with that …….

….i pulled both wires off of the left temp sensor input (black plug) and cut the ends off. The wires were likely damaged at the connecters. I used a couple of pieces of wire to connect the plug (white) at the panel to the sensor input . Its just twisted on by hand. Pump kicked on and ran perfect.

 

[WesBrew]

The one i wired is still going strong today. QDs are really nice. No leaks. Ill attempt to solder these wires at the temp probe plug tomorrow.

 

[WesBrew]

Success! I soldered the new wires to both temp probe receptacles and kept the twist connecters on the other end. Both units are going strong now. Decent for amateur work.