I have a plan

[Tonybrews]

The other day I went next door for a session, with my bottles in my pockets ( I have rather large pockets) anyway by the time I got there the sediment have wall and truely mixed, making nice cloudy drink, and I got thinking.

I I waited the two weeks after bottling (letting the bottled sediment settle) then carefully drained off the beer into a second bottle adding a teaspoon of sugar this may allow transportation of my gold.
What ya recon , has anyone done this ?
Cheers
Tony

 

[Lampy]

I think it would be easier to simply let the unbottled beer sit in the fermenter for 2 more weeks, then bottle just once.

 

[Tonybrews]

I think it would be easier to simply let the unbottled beer sit in the fermenter for 2 more weeks, then bottle just once.

Just shows how much I know that's pretty obvious but just didn't think, the only down side is having to wait editional 2 week's

 

[MaxStout]

Or don't carry bottles in your pocket, shaking it up. Carry them in something more stable.

A lot less hassle than pouring into a second bottle, re-capping, etc.

 

[ncbrewer]

I I waited the two weeks after bottling (letting the bottled sediment settle)

I agree with Lampy - just wait another two weeks before bottling.

then carefully drained off the beer into a second bottle

How was this done? If it was poured, it would get air into the beer. Luckily, yeast eating the sugar takes care of some oxygen, so you might not have a major problem with oxidation.

adding a teaspoon of sugar

A teaspoon of sugar is way too much for a 12 oz bottle. You could get bottle bombs if they are 12 oz. Be sure not to prime with too much sugar - can be dangerous.

 

[DBhomebrew]

Some yeasts are better for bottle conditioning in that they form a tight sticky layer to the bottom of the bottle. Others are powdery and will cloud up by looking at it. Just another quality to consider when choosing your strain.

 

[hotbeer]

I also leave beer in the FV until all the stuff suspended in it settles out. Sometimes this has taken up to 6 weeks. But that was when I was using a packet of yeast with just the word "YEAST" written on it. Those also would clear up for one day and when I looked at them the next day they'd be bubbling again and all the murk on the bottom stirred up into the beer. Sometimes there'd be 3 or more iterations of that before they seemed to stop bubbling and stay clean for more than just a day.

The sediment on the bottom is never anything more than a very thin layer that looks like it was painted on.

 

[ncbrewer]

Those also would clear up for one day and when I looked at them the next day they'd be bubbling again and all the murk on the bottom stirred up into the beer. Sometimes there'd be 3 or more iterations of that before they seemed to stop bubbling and stay clean for more than just a day.

Wow - that would worry me since I bottle condition. You could easily bottle during one of the still periods, only to have it start fermenting again in the bottle, with the possibility of bottle bombs. I doubt if you will be using any generic "YEAST" in the future.

 

[Tonybrews]

I agree with Lampy - just wait another two weeks before bottling.

How was this done? If it was poured, it would get air into the beer. Luckily, yeast eating the sugar takes care of some oxygen, so you might not have a major problem with oxidation.

A teaspoon of sugar is way too much for a 12 oz bottle. You could get bottle bombs if they are 12 oz. Be sure not to prime with too much sugar - can be dangerous.

OK cool , moving forward and improving the product, I shall leave in the fermentation stage for a month and use a higher grade yeast , could be a starter

 

[DBhomebrew]

Not a question of higher grade yeast. It's a matter of choosing the right yeast.

Generic 'YEAST' will of course make that choice impossible.

 

[hotbeer]

Wow - that would worry me since I bottle condition. You could easily bottle during one of the still periods, only to have it start fermenting again in the bottle, with the possibility of bottle bombs. I doubt if you will be using any generic "YEAST" in the future.

I don't worry. I've never had a bottle bomb, but I know that there are those that have.

I've always stored glass bottles in a manner that if they leaked or even exploded that the impact will be minimal and easy to clean up. I keep in my head with me at all times when handling glass that it rarely but quite possibly can break. And when it does it'll be sharper than a razor or scalpel.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Those also would clear up for one day and when I looked at them the next day they'd be bubbling again and all the murk on the bottom stirred up into the beer.

Wow - that would worry me since I bottle condition. You could easily bottle during one of the still periods, only to have it start fermenting again in the bottle, with the possibility of bottle bombs. I doubt if you will be using any generic "YEAST" in the future.

No need to worry; instead, choose to do something to prevent it. Measure FG a couple times a couple of days apart. If FG hasn't changed, fermentation has ended. If FG is with the expected range, it's ready to bottle.

But that was when I was using a packet of yeast with just the word "YEAST" written on it. Those also would clear up for one day and when I looked at them the next day they'd be bubbling again and all the murk on the bottom stirred up into the beer. Sometimes there'd be 3 or more iterations of that before they seemed to stop bubbling and stay clean for more than just a day.

Counting bubbles is probably the least useful thing that one could do when working with an unknown/generic strain of yeast.

 

[ncbrewer]

I've always stored glass bottles in a manner that if they leaked or even exploded that the impact will be minimal and easy to clean up.

Since there is a safety issue here, I'll clarify my comments. On this one, I've read accounts of bottles exploding when being opened. Yes, I understand this should be lower pressure than before refrigerating, but apparently the stress on the bottle when being opened can be enough to make the difference. When opening the first bottle of a batch, I put a towel over it and wear safety glasses.

Measure FG a couple times a couple of days apart. If FG hasn't changed, fermentation has ended. If FG is with the expected range, it's ready to bottle.

If in fact fermentation has stopped and then restarts, the gravity readings could be steady but fermentation still not be finished.

Maybe I seem like a fanatic, but I take bottle bombs seriously.

 

[hotbeer]

Counting bubbles is probably the least useful thing that one could do when working with an unknown/generic strain of yeast.

I agree. Counting bubbles is totally useless in my opinion too. However it was the bubbling action in the beer that stirred all the light trub off the bottom of the FV and back into suspension after the bubbling had stopped for a day and the beer quickly cleared up. And then it started back again the next day clouding the beer up.

This wasn't just a bubble or two from the airlock, this was uncountable amounts of bubbles in the beer itself. With everything swirling around.

The tiny numeric code on the packet came up in a google search as matching LaSaffre instant bread yeast. One day I might try some and see if I get similar results.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Maybe I seem like a fanatic, but I take bottle bombs seriously.​

Adding a "fast ferment" test to the brewing schedule could help confirm the estimated FG.

So lets extend the common approach ...

Measure FG a couple times a couple of days apart. If FG hasn't changed, fermentation has ended. If FG is in the expected range, it's ready to bottle.​

... to include ...

While the beer is fermenting, run a fast ferment test to confirm the estimated FG.​

... and ...

ferment with wort temperature control to be able to​

1) ferment in the 'best' range for the yeast​

2) keep the wort temperature stable; and​

3) raise wort temperature as fermentation slows down.​

... and ...

Brew with known strains of yeast that have a solid reputation for not stalling under known fermentation conditions.​

instant bread yeast.

 

[Broken Crow]

For each of us on here, our brewing journey begins in a variety of ways that inform us on how to proceed. If sediment is the current 'big deal' for you at this point, think about how you want to be brewing this thime next year: Are you happy with what you have, other than a sediment in bottles issue?.. or do you have and are willing to devote more time and cash to improvements? The best way to get rid of sediment in bottles is to force-carb and fill with a beergun, counterpressure filler, homemade system...any number of ways. That of course involves an investment in CO2 gear and the time to learn to use it, but it does amke for sediment free bottles. That was my personal preference that led me to foregoing bottles altogether and using a kegerator...but the bottles I did fill were beautifully clean and presented the best of what I had made at the time. Then of course, you may, on your own journey begin to notice things like oxydation, temperature control, etc..
Surprisingly for this site, no one else has mentioned kegging yet, but it really is an ideal option IF you have any inclination to stick with the hobby long term.
Season's Best!

 

[Closet Fermenter]

Maybe I seem like a fanatic, but I take bottle bombs seriously.

NC, you should take bottle bombs seriously. The second homebrewer I met wore an eyepatch thanks to a bottle bomb. The thoughts of that happening haunted me until I started kegging. Fortunately, I only had one or two go off in the carton, in the closet, while carbing/conditioning. That always stepped up the anxiety level until I got them cooled down and safely popped the caps.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

This sub-topic (bottle bombing) started back in #7 with a comment about a fermentation using an unknown strain of yeast and bubble counting. If that process causes brewers to worry about bottle bombs, there are common (and common sense) ideas for confirming fermentation has ended successfully. A number of ideas were mentioned earlier.

Visually inspecting bottles for hairline cracks is another thing that I do just before packaging begins. When in doubt, toss it out.

eta PET bottles are also an alternative.