I guess I'll start doing full boils

[Darin]

I got some new equipment for my birthday and can't wait to use it. My wife bought me a Blichmann floor burner with a 10 gal Blichmann kettle on back order. I'm and extract/grains brewer used to doing partial boils. I'm pretty excited to use the new equipment and start on full boils.

Now I just have to pick up the leg extensions and a propane tank. Does anyone have any tips for a propane newbie?

 

[beerman1957]

My tip is to have TWO tanks of propane. I seem to run out in the middle of a brew.
You also don't want to have a raging boil when you do a full boil. Just a soft boil is good enough and that will cut down on scorching the wort. Lastly, your hop recipe will need to be adjusted because a 60 min hop addition needs to be accounted for if you haven't been doing 60 minute boil times yet.

 

[cvstrat]

Congrats on the major gear upgrade! I've been using a 10gal megapot for about a year and for Christmas my g/f surprised me with a 15gal Blichmann. They're pretty beast.

Going all grain full boil is only way to go. You'll be happy you did.

Just be aware of how you're going to get the burning hot liquid transfered to the mash tun and whatnot. The Blichmann is heavier and taller than my megapot, and is therefor a LOT harder to pick up and pour into the mash tun. The 10gal might not be as bad.

Also do yourself a favor and get 2 propane tanks. It's expensive up front, but you're going to run out in the middle of a brew one day and that's a major beyotch. Find a place that will fill your tank for you (not exchange it). Places that exchange tanks give you a tank that's not totally full. You could be paying for a 20lb tank and it's got 15lbs of propane in it.. It's a common practice. Find a gas supply place if you can, like a welding supply store or whatever and call and see if they will fill tanks. It's usually like 15-18 bucks, but it's totally full and you can take in a partially filled one to top if off and just pay for what you get.

 

[Darin]

Not going AG quite yet. I don't have any of that equipment and really don't have the space. Thanks for the tips and advice though. I really appreciate it.

Congrats on the major gear upgrade! I've been using a 10gal megapot for about a year and for Christmas my g/f surprised me with a 15gal Blichmann. They're pretty beast.

Going all grain full boil is only way to go. You'll be happy you did.

Just be aware of how you're going to get the burning hot liquid transfered to the mash tun and whatnot. The Blichmann is heavier and taller than my megapot, and is therefor a LOT harder to pick up and pour into the mash tun. The 10gal might not be as bad.

Also do yourself a favor and get 2 propane tanks. It's expensive up front, but you're going to run out in the middle of a brew one day and that's a major beyotch. Find a place that will fill your tank for you (not exchange it). Places that exchange tanks give you a tank that's not totally full. You could be paying for a 20lb tank and it's got 15lbs of propane in it.. It's a common practice. Find a gas supply place if you can, like a welding supply store or whatever and call and see if they will fill tanks. It's usually like 15-18 bucks, but it's totally full and you can take in a partially filled one to top if off and just pay for what you get.

 

[Hex]

Not going AG quite yet. I don't have any of that equipment and really don't have the space....

All it takes for you to AG from this point is to buy a $5 nylon paint strainer bag and BIAB or LIAB (Brew or Lauter In A Bag).

 

[Seven]

Congrats on the 10-gal Blichmann! I got one of these for Christmas too and I love it.

One thing you may or may not be aware of (I sure wasn't) ... if you're planning to use the built-in ball valve spigot to transfer wort from the kettle then you will also need one of these:

Stainless 1/2" NPT x 3/8" Barb

Luckily I figured this out prior to brewing my first batch of beer and I had time to order this crucial part.

Enjoy!

 

[Darin]

Thanks for the info on the getting the barb. I'll make sure and order one. I'm also planning on getting the 24" leg extensions. Does anyone know if they are sold as a set of 4 or separately? It seems like they should come as a set but you never know.

Congrats on the 10-gal Blichmann! I got one of these for Christmas too and I love it.

One thing you may or may not be aware of (I sure wasn't) ... if you're planning to use the built-in ball valve spigot to transfer wort from the kettle then you will also need one of these:

Stainless 1/2" NPT x 3/8" Barb

Luckily I figured this out prior to brewing my first batch of beer and I had time to order this crucial part.

Enjoy!

 

[Seven]

The 24" leg extension kit comes as a complete set. Also, save the default/short legs that come with the burner because you'll need them later if you ever plan to switch to the Blichmann top-tier rack system.

 

[maida7]

My tip would be to use your burner in a well ventilated place. Preferably outside. Legally these kind of burners are only for use outdoors. Lots of people use them in their garage. If you do use it in the garage make sure you keep the door open for fresh air. Also, don't burn your house down as that may not be covered on your insurance.

Do you have a chiller? As soon as you start full sized boils you will want/need a chiller. I recommend an immersion chiller. They are affordable and work really well.

 

[Danbreeze]

My tip is to have TWO tanks of propane. I seem to run out in the middle of a brew.

+1 for this idea. I ran out of propane in the middle of a 75 min boil and it was a huge PITA b/c I was brewing alone and had to waste the time grabbing the tank refill and bringing the wort back up to boil again.

 

[bendavanza]

Also, you will get more hop utilization from a full boil vs partial. The more sugars in the wort, the less effective the hops are.

 

[Seven]

I weigh my propane tank prior to brewing. My tank weighs 15-pounds when empty and I use approx. 2 to 3 pounds of propane for a typical brew session.

If I'm anywhere near the empty tank weight, then off to the hardware store I go for a refill.

 

[Homercidal]

+1 on the chiller. If you haven't got one, it's probably the best $40 or so you'll spend on your hobby next.

And +1 on being SOOO close to AG. It's not harder, really, and so much more fulfilling if you like the hands-on stuff.

 

[beerman1957]

Thanks for the info on the getting the barb. I'll make sure and order one. I'm also planning on getting the 24" leg extensions. Does anyone know if they are sold as a set of 4 or separately? It seems like they should come as a set but you never know.

You can get that barb at HD or Lowes. If they don't have Stainless, you can get brass. You for sure can get a Stainless barb at a dedicated plumbing store.

 

[Darin]

For now I think I'll start with full boil - extract/specialty grains, but BIAB looks like a direction
I might go in. It looks kind of intimidating though. I hear people talk about water chemistry,
grain bill size, conversion efficiency, calculating a "strike" temperature, AG boil size,
and the list goes on. Although I've done some reading and have watched youtube vids,
it seems like a "dark art" to me.

Can I use my new 10 gal. brew pot to produce 5 gal. AG batches?

 

[maida7]

For now I think I'll start with full boil - extract/specialty grains, but BIAB looks like a direction
I might go in. It looks kind of intimidating though. I hear people talk about water chemistry,
grain bill size, conversion efficiency, calculating a "strike" temperature, AG boil size,
and the list goes on. Although I've done some reading and have watched youtube vids,
it seems like a "dark art" to me.

Can I use my new 10 gal. brew pot to produce 5 gal. AG batches?

Sure can. All you need is a giant grain bag. Do a search for Aussie style BIAB. With the Aussie style all the mash and sparge water goes in the pot at one time. Add the bag and the grain. Let sit for 60 min at the desired temp. Remove bag with the grain and your done. Start the boil and the rest is the same as an extract brew day.

 

[djt17]

For now I think I'll start with full boil - extract/specialty grains, but BIAB looks like a direction
I might go in. It looks kind of intimidating though. I hear people talk about water chemistry,
grain bill size, conversion efficiency, calculating a "strike" temperature, AG boil size,
and the list goes on. Although I've done some reading and have watched youtube vids,
it seems like a "dark art" to me.

Can I use my new 10 gal. brew pot to produce 5 gal. AG batches?

I too was intimidated by the AG stuff I was reading, until I read this: http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2009/04/14/brew-in-a-bag-biab-all-grain-beer-brewing/ I have made 8 AG batches this way. I like it alot. If you are worried about water, check this out: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/brewing-water-chemistry-primer-198460/

 

[beerman1957]

For now I think I'll start with full boil - extract/specialty grains, but BIAB looks like a direction
I might go in. It looks kind of intimidating though. I hear people talk about water chemistry,
grain bill size, conversion efficiency, calculating a "strike" temperature, AG boil size, and the list goes on. Although I've done some reading and have watched youtube vids, it seems like a "dark art" to me.

Can I use my new 10 gal. brew pot to produce 5 gal. AG batches?

Yes, you can use your brew pot. What were you going to do with the pot?
Do you mean do EVERYTHING in the brew pot including Mash? I would mash into another container like a 5 gallon Gott/Rubbermaid

 

[bf514921]

+1 on dual propane tankage, and after you get the chiller, maybe a refractometer, very useful in the ag setup and alot easier to use than a hydrometer.

 

[Darin]

Yes, you can use your brew pot. What were you going to do with the pot?
Do you mean do EVERYTHING in the brew pot including Mash? I would mash into another container like a 5 gallon Gott/Rubbermaid

Yes, I was talking about the Brew In A Bag (BIAB) method. I am interested in
trying all grain at some point (not quite yet), but I don't want to put any more
money into my setup (at least for now).

I have another question and I hope it's not stupid. My wife got me the 10 gal
Blichmann but hasn't picked it up yet. Should I spend the extra money to get
a 15 gallon instead? In this case is bigger really better?

 

[maida7]

Yes, I was talking about the Brew In A Bag (BIAB) method. I am interested in
trying all grain at some point (not quite yet), but I don't want to put any more
money into my setup (at least for now).

I have another question and I hope it's not stupid. My wife got me the 10 gal
Blichmann but hasn't picked it up yet. Should I spend the extra money to get
a 15 gallon instead? In this case is bigger really better?

Hmm! your ready to spend big money on a blingmann pot but you can't afford a 60.00 or so for a cooler MLT?

But to answer your question, the 15 gallon pot would give you the ability to do larger batches. So it depends if your happy with 5 gallon batches or your planning to bump up to 10.

 

[Darin]

Hmm! your ready to spend big money on a blingmann pot but you can't afford a 60.00 or so for a cooler MLT?

But to answer your question, the 15 gallon pot would give you the ability to do larger batches. So it depends if your happy with 5 gallon batches or your planning to bump up to 10.

That's funny. I considered that when I posted my question. Having not tried
AG yet, to me the less equipment I have to use the better. However, I'm not
ruling out using an MLT. Would it be that much more difficult than using the
BIAB method?

 

[maida7]

That's funny. I considered that when I posted my question. Having not tried
AG yet, to me the less equipment I have to use the better. However, I'm not
ruling out using an MLT. Would it be that much more difficult than using the
BIAB method?

Yeah there is definitely more to it then straight BIAB. I've never done BIAB. I assume there are some trade-offs to both methods.

BUT...

If your spending money to improve your beer the first thing you should think about is fermentation. Get a flask and stir plate to make yeast starters. Then hook up a fermentation fridge for temp control. This will make a huge improvement in your beer. I'd make these upgrades before getting into AG or 300.00 brew pots. Any monkey can make wort. Yeast make beer. Control the yeast and you hold the key to great beer.

Go cheap on the pot, get a cheap chiller. And use the extra cash to upgrade your fermentation control.

 

[beerman1957]

Yeah there is definitely more to it then straight BIAB. I've never done BIAB. I assume there are some trade-offs to both methods.

BUT...

If your spending money to improve your beer the first thing you should think about is fermentation. Get a flask and stir plate to make yeast starters. Then hook up a fermentation fridge for temp control. This will make a huge improvement in your beer. I'd make these upgrades before getting into AG or 300.00 brew pots. Any monkey can make wort. Yeast make beer. Control the yeast and you hold the key to great beer.

Go cheap on the pot, get a cheap chiller. And use the extra cash to upgrade your fermentation control.

I have to agree here. Fermentation SHOULD be steady as possible with very little fluctuation. I think good fermentation can turn a good beer into a Gold Medal beer.

Also keep the mash temp constant. Other factors are probably just as important, but fermentation can be a little harder to control. I got a used upright freezer for $120 and a temp control for $50 and some other parts. Best $200 I have spent in a long time.

 

[Darin]

I agree there are several things I can do cheaply or for free (and incrementally) to improve my finished
product. Since I'm still in the extract realm I want to try full boils and I'll probably start making
yeast starters. I think a fermentation chamber is out of the cards since I just got a cheap refer that
I'm converting in to a keggerator and really don't have the room.

I will say that if your wife (SWMBO?) gets you a Blichmann for your birthday, how can you turn that down? She
noticed I'm getting back into brewing after a long hiatus and I was getting excited so she wanted to
support that

So since I've been back here are the things I've started doing:
1) Extract w/specialty grains (never did this in the past)
2) Aeration (again, never did this before)
3) Yeast starters... Tried this once and created a blow off
4) Trying to be pretty conscious about cleanliness/sanitation (yay starsan)
5) Moving to full boils
6) See some form of AG in my future

 

[Seven]

Should I spend the extra money to get a 15 gallon instead? In this case is bigger really better?

Bigger isn't necessarily better unless you will be brewing bigger batches. If you get a 15-gal kettle and then find that you brew mainly 5-gal batches then you've wasted money and you'll likely get poor performance from the kettle. You should identify your most common batch size, 5 vs 10 gal batches, then get a kettle that is sized correctly for that.

See here: Sizing guide (click sizing tab)

I brew 5-gal batches with my 10-gal kettle and it works perfectly. I can't speak for using a 15-gal kettle to brew 5-gal batches... but I've heard the built in thermometer won't be positioned properly in the kettle when doing this because you won't have enough wort in it to get a good read when brewing small batches in a 15+ gal kettle.

to your wife for supporting your hobby and buying you a kick-ass kettle!

 

[Darin]

OK so you raise a good question. She asked me what I wanted and I told her to get the 15 because
I was trying to plan for a future of full boil 5 gallon batches AND probably BIAB 5 gallon batches.
I was thinking in a 15 gal kettle I could do all of these brewing approaches: 5/10 gal extract batches
and get into all grain.

Did I buy the wrong size?

Also I had her pick up the false bottom but I'm not sure I'd need it since you really can't use it with
extract boils anyway. It's only if you use the kettle as a MLT right?

 

[maida7]

OK so you raise a good question. She asked me what I wanted and I told her to get the 15 because
I was trying to plan for a future of full boil 5 gallon batches AND probably BIAB 5 gallon batches.
I was thinking in a 15 gal kettle I could do all of these brewing approaches: 5/10 gal extract batches
and get into all grain.

Did I buy the wrong size?

Also I had her pick up the false bottom but I'm not sure I'd need it since you really can't use it with
extract boils anyway. It's only if you use the kettle as a MLT right?

So your spending nearly 500.00 on a pot that is the wrong size and a false bottom that is nearly useless and you still have no way to control your ferment temps.

Why are brewers so obsessed with collecting shiny metal objects. Hear me now and believe me latter, Yeast make beer. The pot means very little if you have no control over the ferment.

PS: Don't forget to get a wort chiller to match the size of the pot.

 

[Seven]

I've read elsewhere that the thermometer is positioned rather high up with the Blichmann boilermaker kettles. If you get a 15-gal kettle but mainly brew 5-gal batches then you may have issues with that. Another option would be to get the 15-gal kettle but know that the built in thermometer may not work well when you brew 5-gal batches... and you'll probably need to use some other thermometer in these cases.

I decided that 5-gal batches were right for me at this point in time so I researched and found the general recommendation is to get a kettle roughly double the size of your final batch size. Since my final batches will be 5-gal, that meant getting a 10-gal kettle. This gives me plenty of extra room for boilovers, mixing ingredients, steeping grains, adding a wort chiller, etc. The 10-gal kettle also allows me to do full wort boils when making my 5-gal batches.

In the near future when I move to all grain I will still use this 10-gal kettle to make my 5-gal batches.

Identifying your typical batch size should help you a lot with the "which size kettle should I get?" question.

Hope this helps!

 

[Seven]

Also I had her pick up the false bottom but I'm not sure I'd need it since you really can't use it with extract boils anyway. It's only if you use the kettle as a MLT right?

If you are a new brewer like me I would highly recommend just getting the bare minimum for now like a kettle, propane burner, fermentor, wort chiller, etc. Master the art of extract brewing first then move to more advanced methods like partial-mash/AG later when you feel ready. As maida7 says, learn how to ferment your beer properly. This is critical. Become a master at the fermentation process. You'll learn a lot along the way and you may find that your equipment choices/preferences/techniques/assumptions change over time (as mine already have).

Brewing well requires you to absorb a ton of information when you're just getting started. Getting the bare minimum now and practicing and learning should help you avoid some expensive mistakes when purchasing gear.

 

[Darin]

So your spending nearly 500.00 on a pot that is the wrong size and a false bottom that is nearly useless and you still have no way to control your ferment temps.

Why are brewers so obsessed with collecting shiny metal objects. Hear me now and believe me latter, Yeast make beer. The pot means very little if you have no control over the ferment.

PS: Don't forget to get a wort chiller to match the size of the pot.

Everyone: I appreciate the tips, help, and advice.

That's why I'm here asking questions and getting information. I am considering your
advice. I'm definitely not ignoring it like you're inferring above. I already stated in a
previous message that I don't have room for a dedicated fermentation chamber or I'd
probably have one in place already. My garage simply doesn't have the space.

With any hobby that I've enjoyed that requires some kind of 'gear', I've never been a
'gear hound'. I always try to do what I want with the minimum amount of gear to enjoy it
or do it right (mountain climbing, golfing, brewing beer, etc.). My wife is the only reason
I have a Blichmann at all.

Here are some facts:

1. Got a 10 gal Blichmann from my wife for my birthday (she's awesome)
2. I thought I'd spurge and get a 15 gallon to 'future proof' my hobby.
3. I got a false bottom to make brew day a bit easier and realized that I don't even need it right now. Heck, depending on the direction I decide to go w.r.t. AG I may never need one
4. Based on input I've received here I'll take those items back and get the 10 gallon as I originally planned

 

[Bruin]

RE: fementation chamber. Do you have a basement? Steadiest temps are usually there, which is where I keep my fermenter. In the winter, as now, I have my Better Bottle fermenter under a cardboard box covered with a blanket. Alongside the fermenter is a very small forced air heater that is controlled with a built in thermostat. I have one of those remote temperature sensors from Radio Shack, so I can see the air temp remains between 60 and 64 from upstairs, without always having to open the side flaps of the box. This keeps my fermenter temp at about 62 F steady, which is the minimum recommended temp for my liquid stout yeast I'm using. I keep the little heater away from the sides of the box, and direct the air flow away from blowing directly on the fermenter or temperature sensor.

 

[beerman1957]

If you live in a cold climate or have a basement, I suggest a "heat belt" sold at most LBS or online. With an add-on sensor you can set to keep the beer at 68-70F (27-28C),