Did you happen to plug the sensors in after the brew pi was already powered on?
I dont think so.
here is what it did last night
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Did you happen to plug the sensors in after the brew pi was already powered on?
I dont think so.
here is what it did last night
I dont think so.
here is what it did last night
They work when its not running. As soon as I change the mode to running it jumps up. Thanks will give that a try.Did they work prior? I thought an earlier post you had it all running? Are the resistors in right? I would unplug it all and just hook up one sensor. Make sure that works, then do the next one.
They are hooked up right it was my first though also. Thanks for asking though.I would guess you had your heater plugged in the cooling side
[...]Using an old 3rd gen iPod as my 'LCD display'. Had it lying around.[...]
Cool! How did you make that happen?
What kind of interface does an iPod have?
Cheers! (thanks for the kind words )
They work when its not running. As soon as I change the mode to running it jumps up. Thanks will give that a try.
They are hooked up right it was my first though also. Thanks for asking though.
no tab to cut im wired in did not use plugsYou need to show pics of your setup. I'd be willing to bet you forgot to cut the tab
Read every single post over the last several weeks and built my brewPi. Older Raspberry Pi I bought back in October 2013. I had used it for several small projects, nothing perm. though. Bought a Sainsmart Uno and relay on Amazon. Shoved into a tiny black plastic toolbox for now. Using an old 3rd gen iPod as my 'LCD display'. Had it lying around. Its only controlling my newly built keezer right now. Beer probe is the garage temp. Going to use it for Ferm control this weekend(using the keezer for ferm...just going to let the kegs warm up for a few weeks). Thanks to EVERYONE for their hard work. Especially FuzzeWuzze(for starting the thread), Elco(for his amazing work and software), day_trippr for all his amazing help and posts, and wbarber69 for all your smack downs. Good times!
no tab to cut im wired in did not use plugs
Looks good! Was concerned a bit by the graph and how spiked out it looked until you explained what the sensors were Once controlling your chamber it definately should not be moving up and down that fast.
Thanks! I am still designing my case to hold it all, I'll post when I get it setup. I put my first brew in it last night. Its a SMaSH all grain with Simcoe. I don't have a heater yet, so its a little confused, but it is keeping really close to my set 65 just using cooling. I am using Safale US-05. Just so folks know, you can do this without a heater if you want(if the fermenting room doesn't get too damn cold). Funny part is that the heater is cheapest by far. I am using the same chamber for a keezer. I only brew about once every 5 or 6 weeks. The beer is still in the keg, I'll just put some in flip tops and put it in the fridge so I have some to drink.
See my graph now:
I want to put a AC to DC power module in my brewpi box so I don't have to use a couple of wall warts. Anyone use one like this from ebay? Worried that the pi seems to need 5V 1.2A, and most of what I see on ebay is just at 1.2A or is 1A. The 12V 1A for the Arduino is fine. Anyone tried one of these?
http://r.ebay.com/oj1m5r
Not to rush you, but now is the best time on Amazon to buy the Lasko MyHeat ceramic heaters w/ fan i recommend. In another few weeks it will be winter and they will have huge demand as the cold fall/winter hits the US and shoot up to $35-40 each instead of the $16 they are now.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LT2PGY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I use that in my Strangebrew Elsinore control panel to power my RPI and it works fine. I cut a USB cord, wired it into the outputs and plug the USB end into the RPI. You will need a Multimeter so that you can test between the two output screws to see if your at 5V and turn the adjustment potentiometer on it with a screwdriver to increase/decrease the voltage. I ended up needing about ~5.17V at the output to get my RPI to turn on for whatever reason im guessing due to some losses going through the USB cable? DO NOT go above 5.25V into the RPI or you may screw it up.
Its nice because it has an enclosure to keep it safe, terminals are easy to access, a LED for when its on...and its tiny
Thanks! That would work. I could use that and the eBay one....or I could just continue to power the Uno from the USB port. I actually haven't had a single problem with it.
Thanks FuzzeWuzze! I was going to go with the Heat Tape, any reason that's a bad idea?
http://www.reptilebasics.com/12-heat-tape
not sure if this has been covered in 4000+ posts in this thread, but I can't seem to get an answer
running the BrewPi thru VirtualBox on Win10, got everything going up to adding the relays and outlets. have had very few problems up to this point, got temperature data getting logged.
problem comes when I choose to start a new FERMENTING beer. the graph disappears after following instructions to REFRESH the page. closing & reopening the browser does not work, nor does restarting the VirtualBox
Grog.Confused.Now.
View attachment 306472
not sure if this has been covered in 4000+ posts in this thread, but I can't seem to get an answer
running the BrewPi thru VirtualBox on Win10, got everything going up to adding the relays and outlets. have had very few problems up to this point, got temperature data getting logged.
problem comes when I choose to start a new FERMENTING beer. the graph disappears after following instructions to REFRESH the page. closing & reopening the browser does not work, nor does restarting the VirtualBox
Grog.Confused.Now.
View attachment 306472
They sell ones with higher amperage ratings, you could go with something like this
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PZDUUUM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
And just shove both your RPI and Arduino USB cables into it, 5A is way more than you need(its the next biggest i could find after 2A).
Realistically even with 2A you can probably power the RPI and Arduino though. I would think?
Doesn't it need at least 6V?
Maybe run the fixPermissions script...
In VirtualBox go to the new VM and make sure the network adapter is set to NAT. There should be a port forwarding box somewhere (I'm on a Mac so it may be a button or a tab on windows), add a port forwarding rule. Add your Windows box's IP and the port you want to forward (I used 8888), then get your guest box's IP by typing 'ip add' on the command line of the guest box. Add it to the port forwarding rule, followed by the guest port destination (80).
Now when you set everything up, typing your Windows IP followed by :8888 will forward to the guest box's port 80. Example: My Host IP is 192.168.1.27 and my guest IP is 10.0.2.15, so I type 192.168.1.27:8888 and it will forward me to 10.0.2.15:80.
Plugging a 5V supply into an Uno's power port is not going to work.
There's a linear regulator to make 5V from that input port, and that regulator needs a couple of volts of head-room at the minimum. For reliable operation you really need a 9V supply.
Otoh, with a slight modification (basically, remove a small FET) you can bring 5V onto the Uno directly to the 5V header pins, bypassing the regulator...
Cheers!
Fuzzewuzzy, I would not recommend that Lasgo space heater, it 1500w! That's asking for overshoot in a small fridge. A reptile heater is much safer too.
Using a high wattage heater in such a small environment is sub-optimal, regardless of PID algorithms running on credit card computers. The spike on the chamber probe is going to be challenging for BrewPi to pick the exact instant to shut down the heater. Something with a MUCH SLOWER RAMP is a better solution.
In my 17cf top-freezer unit, I use a 60W lightbulb "heater". It's plenty even in the dead of winter. Indeed I could probably use a 40W...
Cheers!
Fuzzewuzzy, I would not recommend that Lasgo space heater, it 1500w! That's asking for overshoot in a small fridge. A reptile heater is much safer too.
Fuzzewuzzy, I would not recommend that Lasgo space heater, it 1500w! That's asking for overshoot in a small fridge. A reptile heater is much safer too.
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