How to build a control panel (part 1)

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Yup. Most likely is. Just wanted to point out a faster/easier/more consistent way to do it.

Kal
 
http://morebeer.com/view_product/8767/beerwinecoffee/MPT_Stainless_Steel_Male_Quick_Disconnect

Another problem, MoreBeer a/k/a B3 is out of stainless male QD's and won't have any until Mid March. Are these identical to any sold at McMaster Carr. McMaster Carr has some high flow liquid ones that look similar, but for 1/2 inch NPT size, they are $18 vs. $12.

Maybe these can help?
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g30/c405/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Fittings-Quick_Disconnects.html
Not sure if the flow will be as resistance free as the ones above. Haven't used them myself.
 
This is quite possibly the coolest thing I have ever seen that was a home built unit! This surpasses many commercial controllers that I have seen. I too would opt for computer controlled via Linux Ubuntu but that is a personal option.

I certainly don't have $6000 just for a controller but this is something I can set my sights on. Just superb build and quality!
 
This is quite possibly the coolest thing I have ever seen that was a home built unit! This surpasses many commercial controllers that I have seen. I too would opt for computer controlled via Linux Ubuntu but that is a personal option.

I certainly don't have $6000 just for a controller but this is something I can set my sights on. Just superb build and quality!

Where did the $6000 price come from?

Kal
 
I was counting the parts to include the brew stand and wiring another 60-70A circuit separate from my inside wiring. Also, I can't do a lot of this myself because I have no skillz! So, I estimated high to cover myself.
 
Ah! Ok. If it's the entire setup then yes, I could see the price being that high just in parts.

Kal
 
I've been working super hard on this control panel every day for the last week after work and on the weekend. I'm FINALLY nearing the end of the build. I've got all of the internal wiring done as of tonight. My heatsink finally came in the mail today and I was able to get it installed. The only thing left now is to finish the power cords for the main power, pumps and heating elements and hook those up to my mashtun, hlt and boil kettle, then this panel is ready for a test run! I'm hoping I can try it out this sunday for the first time! I can't wait.
I just want to say thanks to Kal for taking the time to put this AWESOME website up and show us all how to make this thing. I would have never been able to do something this nice myself! Everyone who has come over my house in the last week has been amazed by it. They seriously can't believe that I built it myself. I just keep referring them to your website! Anyway, here are some pics of where I'm at right now. I can't wait to fire it up!
Sorry for the crappy iphone pics...
controlpanel4.jpg

controlpanel2.jpg

controlpanel3.jpg

controlpanel1.jpg
 
LOL! Yeah, I went with a longer heatsink mostly because I thought it looked nicer than the smaller ones. I found a guy on ebay who makes custom sizes so I just got one that fit the space well. Plus, I didn't want a super tall one thats why I ended up with that size. I'm sure I won't have any problems with overheating:) Although, mine is still smaller than Kal's!
 
LOL! Yeah, I went with a longer heatsink mostly because I thought it looked nicer than the smaller ones. I found a guy on ebay who makes custom sizes so I just got one that fit the space well. Plus, I didn't want a super tall one thats why I ended up with that size. I'm sure I won't have any problems with overheating:) Although, mine is still smaller than Kal's!

Mind sharing the ebay heatsink maker?

Also, your user name looks familiar - are you a frequent contributor to the Ohio Game Fishing forum?
 
Is this from another thread?

Not exactly. Kal just added new sections to his website detailing how to use the brewery, including all the other equipment and products he uses on brew day. He found 5.2 to be marginally effective on the water in his part of Canuckistan.

The gist of it is, if you are someone who just completed a clone of his brewery and think you've caught up to Kal in technology, it's another kick in the ego.
 
The gist of it is, if you are someone who just completed a clone of his brewery and think you've caught up to Kal in technology, it's another kick in the ego.
C'mon now! Give credit where credit is due... I learnt everything about water adjustment right here using the EZ water calcuator and Kai's math. Bobby M's done a lot of work to explain it well to the layperson. I'll be doing the same (I hope).

Kal
 
Your entire setup is completely awesome!!!

Not to mention how neatly assembled the control panel is (some of my wiring looks like spaghetti).
 
http://morebeer.com/view_product/8767/beerwinecoffee/MPT_Stainless_Steel_Male_Quick_Disconnect

Another problem, MoreBeer a/k/a B3 is out of stainless male QD's and won't have any until Mid March. Are these identical to any sold at McMaster Carr. McMaster Carr has some high flow liquid ones that look similar, but for 1/2 inch NPT size, they are $18 vs. $12.

Not to take away from Kal's links, but why not use camlocks from BF or ProFlow

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=36_39&page=4

http://store.proflowdynamics.com/modules/store/316-Stainless-Steel_C68.cfm
 
I've never used the camlocks but I'm sure they'd be fine. I do like what I used - they're really quick and easy (and one handed).

Kal
 

B3 is still out of the 1/2" MPT SS Male Quick Disconnects, but I found them IN STOCK at Midwest Supplies. They're a bit more expensive in that Midwest doesn't combine the male and female into a discounted set, but the cost isn't THAT different - e.g., a few bucks here and there doesn't matter all that much, as long as you can get what you need, when you need it. ;)

Mid-March is a long time to wait...
 
Mid-March is a long time to wait...

Totally agree. Why wait two months to use your brewery to save a few bucks. That's like one round of beers at a bar. Who cares?

I'm not trying to be insensitive to those of us who may be out of work and scrapping to make beer, but they aren't building $5000 breweries either.
 
So I finally got around to posting my pictures. The box I used is quite larger than Kal's and weighs a ton. But I love it. Still not 100% complete but it does function. These pictures are a little older as I have everything else wired up. But I have to replace the AMP and VOLT meets as I burned them out. I will probably need some help in wiring those!


DSCN1174.JPG

DSCN1176.JPG


Gonna brew with it next week.
 
Nice work!

That is one *massive* box! What's it measure? Mine 16x16x8. Yours looks more like 24x24x12. Am I close?

Kal
 
Kernal, when you get the new units (or using the old), send photos of the back of the AMP and Volt meters and I'll tell you how I wired mine assuming they are the same. It took some digging around, but mine function perfectly.
 
FYI: I've updated the amp/volt meter page a bit with a warning to cover some of the problems people have been having... take a read.

Re: the pause button - What are you guys using it for? I use the timer mostly for boiling and for mashing. Neither function can actually be "paused". Sure, you can pause the timer, but that doesn't stop the physical boiling nor does it stop the starch to sugar conversion in the mash. So I never bothered adding a larger "pause" button as it didn't make sense to me.

Kal
 
FYI: I've updated the amp/volt meter page a bit with a warning to cover some of the problems people have been having... take a read.

Re: the pause button - What are you guys using it for? I use the timer mostly for boiling and for mashing. Neither function can actually be "paused". Sure, you can pause the timer, but that doesn't stop the physical boiling nor does it stop the starch to sugar conversion in the mash. So I never bothered adding a larger "pause" button as it didn't make sense to me.

Kal

Kal, I don't know how the Omega timer works. On the Aubin one, if you just have the reset, it starts to tick down as soon as you hit it. I like to reset/pause, and then unpause to start the timer. Also, when I boil there may be a reason to pause if you haven't achieved the expected evaporation and don't want to add the aroma/flavor hops to early. With my old setup, I would routinely have to make adjustments for this. With the new one, perhaps its a more controlled environment and I won't.
 
Kal, I don't know how the Omega timer works. On the Aubin one, if you just have the reset, it starts to tick down as soon as you hit it.
The Omega's the same as the AuberIns one: you hit reset and it resets and starts to count down right away.

I like to reset/pause, and then unpause to start the timer.
But doing reset/pause and then unpausing does the same thing as just hitting reset when you want to start. That's what I do. I want to count down from 60 mins, I hit the reset button when I'm ready to start the 60 mins.

Also, when I boil there may be a reason to pause if you haven't achieved the expected evaporation and don't want to add the aroma/flavor hops to early.
Possibly. But that only works if you *only* have really early (60 mins+) additions. If you add anything later (like 45 or 30 min additions) you can't 'pause' the process since it'll alter the outcome. Those 45 or 30 minute hops will no longer be 45 or 30 minute hops.

With my old setup, I would routinely have to make adjustments for this. With the new one, perhaps its a more controlled environment and I won't.
Hopefully! I've never had to do this. The boil off rate is extremely consistent since with electric the energy you're putting is very controlled, and since it's indoors the temp/humidity/wind is always the same.

Kal
 
Nice work!

That is one *massive* box! What's it measure? Mine 16x16x8. Yours looks more like 24x24x12. Am I close?

Kal

You're dead on...I ordered the 16x16x8 and they sent this one by mistake and didn't want it back. So I had to make due! It weighs 40 - 50 lbs I'd say.
 
I haven't received my box yet, but I'm sure eager to start planning the butcher job on the box I'm getting from Pioneer Breaker/electrical_parts!! ;^)

I have a question - how thick is the metal in the door and sidewalls?

I know that we've been talking about using a variety of punches and bi-metal hole saws and such, but couldn't the 45mm x 45mm squares for the PIDs be just as easily cut using a Dremel and an assortment of 15/16" and/or 1-1/2" metal cutting wheels?

Just curious...
 
I haven't received my box yet, but I'm sure eager to start planning the butcher job on the box I'm getting from Pioneer Breaker/electrical_parts!! ;^)

I have a question - how thick is the metal in the door and sidewalls?

I know that we've been talking about using a variety of punches and bi-metal hole saws and such, but couldn't the 45mm x 45mm squares for the PIDs be just as easily cut using a Dremel and an assortment of 15/16" and/or 1-1/2" metal cutting wheels?

Just curious...

I used a jig saw with a metal blade, turned the speed down a bit on the saw and it cut like butter. Then did a little grinding on the edges.
 
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