How Long Is Too Long In the Fermenter?

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kyoun1e

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I brewed a Tank 7 farmhouse ale clone kit recipe on July 7th. It's still in the carboy at 4+ weeks and will remain in there for another week (since I'm on vacation). I then need to dry hop for a few days when I return so this thing will be in there for 6 weeks I'm thinking.

Couple of notes:

* It's been temperature controlled at 75 degrees F. It's a saison so higher temps were indicated on the recipe.
* This was an extract recipe kit.
* Took a gravity reading a week or so ago and it was at 1.011 -- this was the final expected gravity.

Everything I've read says that sitting longer in the fermenter can't hurt. I suppose there isn't much I can do about it now, but curious what everyone thinks.

Here's the recipe:

http://www.greatfermentations.com/downloads/instructions/beerkits/TankStevenExtract_UNCLEAN.pdf

Thanks!
 
More than 6 weeks and you're in the danger zone, unless it's an aged beer, which in this case, it's not

If your gravity was already at target, then it's just pointlessly waiting around waiting for all types of mold/nasties to get at it.

Odds are you'll be ok, however, try to rack when you hit your target or a minimum of 3 weeks have passed (notwithstanding pitching a large starter with a ton of healthy yeast to smash through it in a week or so)
 
It'll be fine.
Old timers instilled a fear of autolysis in us if you left your beer on the lees for more than 2 weeks, but it's nonsense. Eventually it will happen, but you are talking as much as several months (temp dependent).
The time frame and temps you are talking about? it'll be fine. The yeast will also help prevent oxidation.
Just don't let your airlock run dry.
 
From what I can tell, unless you're talking about a couple of months don't worry about it. I never get far enough ahead of my pipeline to let a beer sit longer than a couple of weeks, so I can't speak from experience though.
 
From what I can tell, unless you're talking about a couple of months don't worry about it. I never get far enough ahead of my pipeline to let a beer sit longer than a couple of weeks, so I can't speak from experience though.

My advice comes from experience

I've gone on holiday, been waaaay to busy with work and all the rest of it and I've learned my lesson

I'll will never let a beer go longer than 2 months any more, it's not worth it in terms of agony and disappointment.
 
I've had Beer Munchers Centennial Ale in a carboy for as long as 8 months with no off tastes. It's not a big beer and my beer nose is pretty good. It has been at 50 degrees or less the whole time and that may have contributed to my good fortune.
 
I've had Beer Munchers Centennial Ale in a carboy for as long as 8 months with no off tastes. It's not a big beer and my beer nose is pretty good. It has been at 50 degrees or less the whole time and that may have contributed to my good fortune.

The Tank 7 clone is a big beer. ABV is upwards to 8%.

If this is the case, is there less risk with "bigger beers?"
 
What do you mean by that? I have starsan solution filled halfway as recommended. Not sure if you mean something else here.

Your star san solution, or regular water, or vodka (some people use it - I think it's a waste of good vodka) will evaporate over time from your airlock. 3-piece airlocks are the worst, while S-type airlocks evaporate slowest.

I have had adequately filled airlocks evaporate dry over the course of several weeks. Then outside air gets into your fermenter and will ruin your beer.
 
This.
It is the ideal.
It gets more complicated if dry hopping, but otherwise, it's the bee's knees.

What's the benefit of doing this prior to final gravity? Also do you rack to the keg and let it sit at room temp pressurized and treat the keg as a secondary type vessel?
 
What's the benefit of doing this prior to final gravity?
A: The small portion of yeast still in suspension scavenges oxygen picked up during the transfer, reducing oxidative damage to the beer.
B: If you remove any airlock or pressure release device, the yeast will finish up the remaining sugar, producing natural carbonation (like bottle conditioning), which makes for better bubbles and foam than forced CO2.

Also do you rack to the keg and let it sit at room temp pressurized and treat the keg as a secondary type vessel?
You rack to keg and leave it at fermentation temp unpressurized (it will pressurize itself as the yeast finish off the last bit of sugar.
You may need to augment the carbonation, depending how much sugar was left when you transferred, but the benefit will still be there even if you only end up half naturally carbonated.
This keg becomes the serving keg too, unless you want to transfer to a final keg once complete, but if you do that, you won't have the active oxygen scavenging benefit of active yeast. Sure, your first few pints will have a little yeast in them that has settled to the bottom, but a little yeast in your beer never hurt anybody (and IMO improves flavor and mouthfeel).
 
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