How do YOU sparge?

[Crushdaley]

I just listened to a brulosophy podcast on no sparge brewing and I was intrigued. I exclusively fly sparge because that's how I was taught and that's how my brew rig is setup. Wondering how everyone else does it.
Details please. I currently use a one tier, three keggle system with a makeshift manual HERMS setup usinge an immersion wort chiller in the hot liquor tank as my HERMS coil to control mash temps and for vorlaf. Then I fly sparge for about 15-20 minutes keeping about 1" of water above grain bed using two pumps to match flow into my brew kettle.
Would love to here different methods and details. Thanks

 

[beerlover77]

I fly sparge with 3 vessels but use propane and gravity.

 

[SoCal-Doug]

3 vessel herms two-tier fly. trickle into the bk, match the rate from the hlt. mash and sparge is at about 1.5" above the grain bed swirling from the return line. 5 gallon batch sparges in about 40 to 45 mins. Typical mash/lauter efficiencies in the high 80's. I think i'll stick with it.

 

[V-Fib]

Batch sparge in a 48qt cooler. Im sure there are some recipes I brew that I can no sparge but I've never tried it out.

 

[homebrewer_99]

I tried Fly Sparging a number of times and ALWAYS got tannins.

I went back to Batch Sparging and have NOT had 1 tannic brew since.

I use a round orange 7 gal Rubbermaid cooler for a mash tun.

Many years ago I placed a piece of tape down the side of my brew pot to mark water level/volume. Using a level, I drew a straight line on the tape. I measured the water going into my brew pot at the 1, 2, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5 and 7 gallon levels. Then I used a center punch and a hammer and made indentations in the metal at each point. I made them deep enough that I can see them when looking into the pot.

While draining the initial wort into the brew pot I prop up one side to drain the wort.

Then I check the volume level in the pot to tell me how much sparge water I need to meet my desired pre-boil volume per the recipe. It works every time.

 

[beermanpete]

I have a five gallon, two tier, three vessel system with one pump. I always fly sparge. I vorlauf until the wort is clear (or as clear as it will get), typically for about 30 minutes. Sparging takes about 30 to 45 minutes and I keep an inch or two of water over the grain bed. I try to keep the flow rate during vorlauf and sparging at about 2 qts per minute. I use pinch clamps on the hoses to adjust the flow (ball valves such at adjusting flow rate). My HLT is just large enough (9ish gals) to hold all the water I need for a batch so I sparge until it is all used. I typically get better than 80 percent efficiency.

 

[deadwolfbones]

I don't. BIAB, no sparge.

 

[Wreck99]

3 vessel system with pumps, ss brewtech manifold for sparging

 

[Jtk78]

I mash in a 13 gallon Xtreme cooler and have a 10 gallon water cooler for a HLT. After gravity empties my mash tun, I do;

7 gallons starting boil vol - first runnings ÷ 2 = batch sparge volume for 2 sparges.
I drain that amount from my HLT to the mash tun
stir & let it sit just a couple of minutes
drain mash tun
repeat for the 2nd sparge

If it's a small beer, I'll usually only do one sparge.

 

[kingmatt]

My setup is super basic but I haven't felt the need to change yet.

I batch sparge in a converted rubbermaid chest cooler with a stainless braided plumbing supply line. I get about 70% efficiency and am happy with that.

 

[Nagorg]

Batch sparge exclusively here... I've thought about trying fly sparge but keep talking myself out of it due to the additional complexity and time. Not to mention, batch sparging works great for me and is my process. Why try to fix what's not broken?

I have two different MLT's depending on batch size and gravity. Both are rectangle shaped coolers with manifolds I built out of copper tubing.

 

[aprichman]

I moved from fly sparging on a 3 vessel setup to BIAB no sparge in a single vessel.

 

[PADave]

BIAB full volume mash. No sparge.

 

[Crushdaley]

I moved from fly sparging on a 3 vessel setup to BIAB no sparge in a single vessel.

Just curious, why did you switch?

 

[aprichman]

Just curious, why did you switch?

It saves me a ton of time, not only is my brewday a lot faster but my equipment setup and cleanup is too.

 

[dlettow]

I have a 3 vessel single tier electric setup, using a 10 gallon cooler as the mash tun. I usually average about 72% efficiency doing a double batch sparge. I wish it was better, but good enough.

I've thought of trying biab for batches less than 5 gallons since it is hard to brew such small quantities with my setup. For my typical 5 gallon batches though, from the time I start heating my water until the last item is put away is 3.5 to 4 hours tops, so I question how much more time biab would save me.

 

[Bilbo1usa]

I no-sparge, large cooler with a SS braided hose.

Following the methods of The Brulosopher and Don Osborne:

It takes a bit more grain (approx 1.2x), for which I made a spreadsheet calculator based on math from Palmer's How To Brew; I just dump in whatever recipe I'm using and my desired mash temp, and it calculates the amount of grain I need to buy, mash water volume, and the dough-in temp.

I double mill my grain and get about 80% efficiency with 0 tannins.
I quit with the batch and fly sparging.
Love it and have never looked back.
I use this method for all types of beer.

B

 

[ba-brewer]

I used to do batch sparging in a 5gal cooler with a braid and got pretty consistent 75% BHE(2 sparges), but about a year ago switched to RIMS setup with a SS kettle and a domed false bottom. I still batch sparged but only needed a single sparge and my BHE dropped to 70%. The wort seems to drain much more slowly in my RIMS setup so I recently switched to fly sparging and get 75%BHE or better. I cleanup the mash tun and RIMS stuff while the boil happens, still plenty of time left for standing around.

My setup is 3 vessel for 5gal batches, but I do full volume no sparge for 3gal batches. BHE drops to about 65% so when I compensate it uses almost the same amount of grain as a 5gal batch.

 

[Wolfbayte]

I batch sparge in my 48 qt cooler MLT + CPVC manifold with room-ish temp (80*-100* F) RO water treated w/ CaCl. Calculate sparge water with: http://www.brew365.com/mash_sparge_water_calculator.php.

Stir, wait 5 mins, stir, vourlaf, drain, boil, cool, pour, pitch, ferment, bottle, and pray.

 

[Oginme]

The majority of my brews are full volume BIAB at 10 or 14 liter batches. I do have a mash tun that I make 20 liter batches a couple of times a year using batch sparge.

 

[brewbama]

I no-sparge, large cooler with a SS braided hose.

Following the methods of The Brulosopher and Don Osborne:

It takes a bit more grain (approx 1.2x), for which I made a spreadsheet calculator based on math from Palmer's How To Brew; I just dump in whatever recipe I'm using and my desired mash temp, and it calculates the amount of grain I need to buy, mash water volume, and the dough-in temp.

I double mill my grain and get about 80% efficiency with 0 tannins.
I quit with the batch and fly sparging.
Love it and have never looked back.
I use this method for all types of beer.

B

I learned to brew watching Him and Northern Brewer videos. So, I batch sparge like they do.

 

[brewbama]

I learned to brew watching Him and Northern Brewer videos and reading Swarze and Conn web pages. So, I batch sparge like they do.

 

[Smellyglove]

I do 2V no sparge with a herms. I had a 3V-setup before but not going back. The only "issue" is that you're batch or OG is limited to the volume of the mash tun.

For me it's just way less work, I use three hoses and a pump, and everything I measure in the mash is what I get. SG and pH, no dillution due to sparge water. And I feel I get a more robust malt backbone.

 

[seatazzz]

I have a 16 gallon former extract barrel with bazooka and false bottom for a mash tun, one pump, and I mash in a bag as well. I wrap it in a windshield reflector thing with bungees and it loses about 1.5 degrees over a 60 minute mash. I recirculate through the last 30 minutes of the mash, drain out about 2 gallons with the ball valve about 1/4 turn, then batch sparge with about 5 gallons and drain the whole thing. Only issue I've had is the dead space is almost a gallon, once I factored that volume into my calculations I've been getting better efficiency. If I wind up with too much volume I extend the boil time and don't add hops until it's where I want it. Much easier to boil down excess volume instead of having to do a second sparge and not get the gravity I want.

 

[day_trippr]

3v2p single tier herms with an auto-sparge valve, 10 gallon batches fly-sparged at 1 qt per minute.
While I like the extra efficiency it's more about enjoying the classic process.
The slowness suits my age, I think...

Cheers!

 

[casualbrewer]

I BIAB and do a pour over sparge. I have a large stainless colander that fits perfectly in/over my kettle. So I will raise bag, lower into colander, then sparge with cold water. This allows me to squeeze grain bag and not wear gloves for fear of burning hands. Used to never do a sparge and just squeeze the bag but it would require gloves. I averaged about 78% efficiency with a double crush from my lhbs. Now with a single crush, cold sparge, and squeeze I average around 82%. Nothing crazy but it works very well. I simplified my process alot. But I also mash, boil, and ferment in my kettle so it makes things stupid easy. Plus I basically never have to sanitize a fermenter as the boil does it for me.

 

[jtp137]

I just listened to a brulosophy podcast on no sparge brewing and I was intrigued. I exclusively fly sparge because that's how I was taught and that's how my brew rig is setup. Wondering how everyone else does it.
Details please. I currently use a one tier, three keggle system with a makeshift manual HERMS setup usinge an immersion wort chiller in the hot liquor tank as my HERMS coil to control mash temps and for vorlaf. Then I fly sparge for about 15-20 minutes keeping about 1" of water above grain bed using two pumps to match flow into my brew kettle.
Would love to here different methods and details. Thanks

I have a herms system with false bottom and usually fly sparge 15 gallon batches but if I am doing a 5 gallon test batch I just put the full water volume in the mash tun recirculate during mash and no sparge the efficiency isnt that great but its quick

 

[rhys333]

BIAB with dunk sparge. Simple and effective.

 

[Crushdaley]

I BIAB and do a pour over sparge. I have a large stainless colander that fits perfectly in/over my kettle. So I will raise bag, lower into colander, then sparge with cold water. This allows me to squeeze grain bag and not wear gloves for fear of burning hands. Used to never do a sparge and just squeeze the bag but it would require gloves. I averaged about 78% efficiency with a double crush from my lhbs. Now with a single crush, cold sparge, and squeeze I average around 82%. Nothing crazy but it works very well. I simplified my process alot. But I also mash, boil, and ferment in my kettle so it makes things stupid easy. Plus I basically never have to sanitize a fermenter as the boil does it for me.

You ferment in your brew kettle!?! I have never heard of this. What about trub and hop material? Do you strain the wort? How do you cover and airlock it?

 

[beerlover77]

You ferment in your brew kettle!?! I have never heard of this. What about trub and hop material? Do you strain the wort? How do you cover and airlock it?

Also do you add oxygen before pitching?

 

[whovous]

I BIAB and do a pour over sparge. I have a large stainless colander that fits perfectly in/over my kettle. So I will raise bag, lower into colander, then sparge with cold water. This allows me to squeeze grain bag and not wear gloves for fear of burning hands. Used to never do a sparge and just squeeze the bag but it would require gloves. I averaged about 78% efficiency with a double crush from my lhbs. Now with a single crush, cold sparge, and squeeze I average around 82%. Nothing crazy but it works very well. I simplified my process alot. But I also mash, boil, and ferment in my kettle so it makes things stupid easy. Plus I basically never have to sanitize a fermenter as the boil does it for me.

My eBIAB process is similar. I use the basket that came with my Bayou Classic instead of a colander. I raise the bag, lower into the basket, put the basket into a huge ceramic bowl and do a pour over. I use hot water, and I also ferment in more conventional fashion.

 

[SoCal-Doug]

While I like the extra efficiency it's more about enjoying the classic process. The slowness suits my age, I think...

^^^ Nailed it!

There is also something to be said for watching [or scrutinizing if you like] the numbers through the mash, sparge runnings, and boil. You really get to know your processes and can achieve continuity and repeatability. Efficiency can make a difference also. An example would be a 5 gallon batch using 10 pounds of 2 row... At 88% it should yield about 1.058. To get the same yield at 75%, you would need 11.6 pounds of malt. Depending on the grain source, that could be over $3 difference. Worse at 70% or 65%. For many, $3 or $6 is no big deal but for me, it's fun to work toward goals and challenge myself while brewing, like higher efficiency, lower cost, hit my post boil volume, be within a point or two of the last batch of the same recipe, or whatever. When I can hit 90% mash, 88% lauter, 1.005/5.9 runnings (on certain recipes of course), and know there's not a thing left in that grain, its a sense of accomplishment. A good sparge is a must for that. Getting a higher BH efficiency is the real challenge. You have to really nail the preboil and postboil numbers, know your deadspaces and wastes, and be thinking about heat expansion and shrinkage throughout. Required to make good beer? No! Fun for nerds or increasing knowledge and skills? Totally.

For myself, I guess it helps pass the time while staring at the PID controllers

 

[brandonlovesbeer]

BIAB. Question.

It seems to me that a lot of sugars would be left over trapped in the grain since they aren’t being washed free.

 

[beermanpete]

BIAB. Question.

It seems to me that a lot of sugars would be left over trapped in the grain since they aren’t being washed free.

I does seem that way but many BIAB brewers report equivalent efficiency as brewers who use more traditional methods. A thin mash and squeezing the bag to get more wort seems to get the job done.

 

[bronzdragon]

I just switched from a three vessel Sabco setup to a GrainFather. I was getting about 70% on the Sabco and my first batch sparge using the GrainFather, I got about 80%.
/cheers

 

[Gadjobrinus]

3 vessel herms two-tier fly. trickle into the bk, match the rate from the hlt. mash and sparge is at about 1.5" above the grain bed swirling from the return line. 5 gallon batch sparges in about 40 to 45 mins. Typical mash/lauter efficiencies in the high 80's. I think i'll stick with it.

Socal, do you have a pic, by any chance? Probably should leave well enough alone, but I've just got the stock Spike setup going, so it's a high return at tangential flow against the MLT side. Not used to that- accustomed to the standard (then) sparge ring sprinkling above the grain bed. Thinking of other possibilities.

 

[schematix]

I switched from a classic 3V RIMS system to a 2V RIMS in order to shave some time AND EFFORT off of brew day. It really couldn't be simpler.

I get 100% conversion in the tun, so my only losses are dead space and absorption. Total efficiency is around 85% usually. This compares to just over 90% when I sparged. I also find its much more predictable to hit the numbers dead on now too.

Only 2 downsides:
1. Larger mash tun required since you need all your water (but you don't have to buy a 3rd vessel)
2. It doesn't scale up to higher gravities. If you make a lot of beers over 1.060 a traditional sparge may do you better.

 

[SoCal-Doug]

Socal, do you have a pic, by any chance? Probably should leave well enough alone, but I've just got the stock Spike setup going, so it's a high return at tangential flow against the MLT side. Not used to that- accustomed to the standard (then) sparge ring sprinkling above the grain bed. Thinking of other possibilities.

I don't think I have a picture of mine in operation, but here's a pic I found on the internet of something similar (note, his return line doesn't need to be that long). Basically, the return line from the herms coil just lays on top of the grain bed. Typically, people setup for a couple inches of wort above the grain. The return causes a continuous swirly motion on the fluid and thence flows through the grain for mashing and sparging. Years back, I tried the sprays, drippys, rings, and all the other return line widgets but found nothing that works as well as this method. Elegantly simple and incredibly effective.

 

[Gadjobrinus]

I don't think I have a picture of mine in operation, but here's a pic I found on the internet of something similar (note, his return line doesn't need to be that long). Basically, the return line from the herms coil just lays on top of the grain bed. Typically, people setup for a couple inches of wort above the grain. The return causes a continuous swirly motion on the fluid and thence flows through the grain for mashing and sparging. Years back, I tried the sprays, drippys, rings, and all the other return line widgets but found nothing that works as well as this method. Elegantly simple and incredibly effective.

View attachment 562714

OK, great, thanks Socal. Basically that's the same setup as the Spike, I see, except that with the Spike, it's just a little ss elbow that flows along the wall but if the bed is lower, I now realize you're sort of gently spilling down the wall in only one area. It would be a great mod to add in the hose to account for different grain beds. Thanks!

 

[Bobcatbrewing42]

I just listened to a brulosophy podcast on no sparge brewing and I was intrigued. I exclusively fly sparge because that's how I was taught and that's how my brew rig is setup. Wondering how everyone else does it.
Details please. I currently use a one tier, three keggle system with a makeshift manual HERMS setup usinge an immersion wort chiller in the hot liquor tank as my HERMS coil to control mash temps and for vorlaf. Then I fly sparge for about 15-20 minutes keeping about 1" of water above grain bed using two pumps to match flow into my brew kettle.
Would love to here different methods and details. Thanks

Sounds good. A bit improvised but the result should be the same as a fancy HERMS kettle.