How do I move to the next level?

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TerryH

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I have been extract brewing for about two months and have 5 brews under my belt, two of which are bottled and turned out good. My brews have been most LME, all have had steeped grains, and some DME. All have been kits. My brews turn out darker than I think they should but I guess this is from the extract.
How can I move to the next level to make better extract beer?
(Can't start all-grain, we have a 3wk old baby and the wife is tolerating a few hours a weekend, maybe next year)
 
Perhaps you are already doing this, but a couple things I can think of
are:
  • late extract addition
  • full boils

Maybe you could give partial mashing a try.
 
I have been extract brewing for about two months and have 5 brews under my belt, two of which are bottled and turned out good. My brews have been most LME, all have had steeped grains, and some DME. All have been kits. My brews turn out darker than I think they should but I guess this is from the extract.
How can I move to the next level to make better extract beer?
(Can't start all-grain, we have a 3wk old baby and the wife is tolerating a few hours a weekend, maybe next year)

The first thing I would do is check out recipes and stop buying pre-made kits. Oh, I've had some good ones, but my beer improved when I bought "4 pounds of this, 12 ounces of that" that a recipe asked for. Adding the extract with 15 minutes left in the boil helps to keep the color light, and gives more bittering (the hops utilization is better in a lower gravity wort).

I'm not a LME fan, but have used it in the past. I much prefer DME or extra-light DME for brewing.

If you have a large pot (a big canning pot, for example), you can try to do a bigger boil. If you're boiling 2 gallons, consider if your stove can boil 3 gallons. A larger boil volume seems to reduce carmelization.

That's all I can think of right now!
 
How will these change my results?
Any difference with LME versus DME?
 
What about a partial mash brewing ala Deathbrewer? I started doing this a few months ago and it doesn't take a whole lot more time, and you have more control over your beer. A typical brew time for me is about 3-3.5 hours including cleanup. Best part is it's easy to convert the many available all grain recipes to partial mash, and you don't need a lot of extra equipment - a 2 gallon grain cooler and large grain bag are the only extra things I bought to start brewing this way.
 
Thanks for the answers. I was typing when you posted. Can I just trade off the LME for DME?
 
I find LME is just as good as DME, when I use fresh stuff bought from Northern Brewer or AHS, and not the canned stuff that's been sitting on shelves forever.

Definitely look into partial brewing, where you are doing very temperature-controlled grain mashing/steeping to actual get fermentable sugar from your grains - I just do infusion mashes, or so I was told, but there are more complex methods (maybe best to avoid stuff that requires more equipment, SWMBO might not be a fan of that idea).

I only buy kits from Northern Brewer and AHS, or More Beer or Midwest Supplies, and not from stores/pre-packaged things - but usually, I make my own recipe based on a recipe from HBT or from the books I have around the house.
 
DME looks like powder/flour.
It's a little higher in gravity per pound in comparison to LME.
 
Well, I don't entirely agree with the statement that it is better, for two reasons.

1. Fresh LME has served me well
2. Late Addition use of Fresh LME makes beer without what many consider to be the flaw in LME, which is that it leaves a very noticeable (to a beer nut, i.e. all of us eventually) extract-only flavor from being cooked/boiled for so long.
 
what makes it "better" exactly?

It's got a much longer shelf life, and is much easier to work with.

Old LME tastes funky... if you get it from a major shop (online) then you have nothing to worry about.

I like to use whatever amount of of LME I can get out of the sizes they offer and then finish with DME. You can save half a pack of DME, not so with the liquid form.

DME is a bit more expensive, but it's also more concentrated (you use less).
 
I guess I don't see changing from LME to DME as moving up in brewing technique. I always use bulk LME (fresh, not canned) from my LHBS and I've been quite satisfied with the quality of my beers. Partial mashing will give you more of that fresh grain taste and more control over the flavor of your beer, you'll learn more about the beer making process and you'll be only a half step away from AG brewing if that's your ultimate goal.
 
How can I move to the next level to make better extract beer?

I agree with the suggestions for trying the late extract addition but there are other things you can look at outside of moving to another method of brewing. One huge impact area would be controlling fermentation temps....lots of low buck methods to investigate there.

More information about what you like to drink, what you have brewed already, your process, ect. might help folks point out easy/cheap suggestions.
 
DME = dehydrated malt extract. It has the consistency of powdered sugar and is what I buy when I get ingredients from my local brew shop. It's easier to handle than liquid, but you need to be careful not to get it wet before you dump it into he pot. Otherwise it can be a mess.
 
I have been extract brewing for about two months and have 5 brews under my belt, two of which are bottled and turned out good. My brews have been most LME, all have had steeped grains, and some DME. All have been kits. My brews turn out darker than I think they should but I guess this is from the extract.
How can I move to the next level to make better extract beer?
(Can't start all-grain, we have a 3wk old baby and the wife is tolerating a few hours a weekend, maybe next year)

Neglecting the LME/DME debate, I'll throw in my $.02 worth.

First, I think you need to know what you like or don't like in beer. That means trying some different beers and figuring out what you really want. Luckily, the research is fun.

Knowing that you're not ready to switch to a more time-consuming style of brewing, I'd suggest the following things to help you make better beer.

First, like Yooper said, Try switching from a kit beer to a recipe. It's not that kit beers suck, bur rather that they tend to sit on the shelf a while. Fresh extract is always better than not-so-fresh, moreso with the liquid extracts. You want to find a shop that has bulk extract, and goes through it fairly quickly. Freshness matters.

Second, I found that the greatest improvement in my extract beers came from two things, in this order: (1) Yeast Management, and (2) Temperature control. Neither requires a huge investment in equipment.

Yeast management is simply using only very high-quality dry yeast (the stuff under the lid on that John Bull kit is NOT what I'm talking about), or good liquid yeast cultures with an appropriate starter, and consistently aerating your wort well when it's cool just prior to pitching yeast. If you ferment in a bucket, a sanitized wire whip is great for aerating your beer. If you're using a carboy, shake it really well for a minute or two just before pitching the yeast.

As for temperature control: Cooler is better (generally) until you get below 60F. Have a cold basement? Perfect. Put the fermenter on the floor. No basement? Try to find a way to keep your fermenter under 65F. (A big rubbermaid container partially full with water and a T-shirt over the fermenter will get you a few degrees of cooling just from evaporation). Your yeast will reward you with better flavor.

Lastly, remember to have patience. Although the 1-2-3 rule is a good place to start, I found that most of my beer was even better at 8 or 12 weeks than it was at 6. Enjoy the hobby, brew what you like, and take small steps. The transition from "drinkable" to "good" beer is easy to make.
 
Word to both Yooper and JDS. Temperature control and yeast management, combined with good recipes, are the way.

I suggest you pick a couple of good recipes - no more than three - and brew them over and over until you get them where you want them. Keep excruciatingly detailed notes so you know all the details, right down to things like the ambient temperature of the room in which the ferment took place. You'll learn more about the process of brewing - and how even subtle changes to the process impact the beer - doing that than you ever will brewing a new recipe every time.

Bob
 
LME weighs less and brings down your shipping costs as well

Uhh... what? I don't follow your logic here.

LME is cheaper, but you have to use more. DME would be cheaper to ship.

That said, the shipping costs thing is totally negligible. If you're looking to save $, LME is the best option because it is out and out cheaper.
 
Temperature and patience. Maintaining a consistent fermentation temperature, and being patient to let it go for a month make a great beer.
 
Sorry about the lack of response, I just got home from work. Thanks for all of the great info. Where can I get info to learn how to partial mash. Someone asked what kind of beer I like to give more specifics. My favorites are IPA's, Porters, ESB's and some Belgians.
 
Sorry about the lack of response, I just got home from work. Thanks for all of the great info. Where can I get info to learn how to partial mash. Someone asked what kind of beer I like to give more specifics. My favorites are IPA's, Porters, ESB's and some Belgians.

I really like Deathbrewer's partial mash sticky thread- check it out and feel free to ask if you have any questions.

I'd suggest taking a look at our recipe database, and see what gets good reviews in the categories you like. I make a ton of IPAs, but not many porters or Belgians, and only a few ESBs, so I always take a look at the recipes before deciding what I want to brew.

Just about any recipe can be converted to partial mash, so don't let the designation of all-grain scare you away from looking at some of the comments on the recipes.
 
LME weighs less and brings down your shipping costs as well

One pound of LME weighs the same as one pound of dme. Also, DME has greater fermentable potential, requiring less DME than LME to reach the same gravity. Not only that, the best online homebrew suppliers have flat rate shipping, or free shipping with a minimum order.
 
I have heard much about converting recipes between the styles, including computer programs, problem is I have a Mac. Anyone know a good Mac program? Are there any resources on the equations that I can just do the math, probably as fast since I cannot type.
 
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