Hop burst with hop stand

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zwiller

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Anyone do it?

Looking to do an IPA with a heavy 15 minute addition and a heavy 30 minute hop stand. Concerned the 15 minute addition might be isomerized by the hop stand...
 
This is becoming more and more standard for me. 20, 15, 10, 5 minute additions then massive amounts after flameout. Works well and the bitterness is very low
 
Any particular addition get you more pronounced hop flavor with the classic overtones? (grapefruit from cascade, tangerine from amarillo, flower from centennial, etc) Mine seem muted. Some other brewers have suggested this is actually attributed from yeast esters. I typically use Chico but the other brewers have suggests an english strain.

Thanks.
 
I've been working a lot with my water chemistry and mash ph to see if it helps. Hop-wise, Citra is really strong. Centennial works well for me as well. I like cascade too. In fact, my hoppiest beer is 1/3 mix of them all with basically this hop schedule and a FWH. Big dry hop too. I usually do 1 oz per gallon.
 
I did alot of trial and error with pH and slightly lower (5.3-5.4 room) does help keep things brighter. I didn't find any glory going lower or higher. Try bumping sulfate to 300ppm if you are not already.

Very similar take here. 3-4 hops in a blend around 1lb/6G. Last one was small FWH and huge whirlpool with a decent dryhop. I think I will split the whirlpool with the 15m addition next time along with an english strain. Thanks again.
 
That was a new one for me but sonofgun I do pickup some peach. This one did stay a bit cool thanks to the winter (probably 62F). Never really bothered fussing with temps for Chico. I tried elevated temps with 1272 and it was not a game changer for me.
 
I do a bittering and whirlpool edition, just like Stone. It's really worked out for me. The down side is you do have to use more hops and hops aren't cheap. I love hops, so I'm willing to pay the price. I also use English yeast so my IPAs aren't mouth puckering dry. I have experimented with FWH and it was not for me. Just ended up making the beer harsh on the back end.
 
I use lots of citra and mosaic and galaxy at flameout and stand for up to 60 min. Ive been using 1968 London ESB latley and have had great results. Even had a brewer from Silvermoon tell me to keep brewing one of them but damm it has a **** ton of designer hops in it and cost alot to make it.
 
I did a bunch of hopstand experiments too. Tried a 70m, 60m, and 30m. I also did 60m and 30m with stirring every 5 minutes. Stirring or whirlpooling does make an impact but I didn't notice a large difference from the additional 30m of the 60m so I have stuck with a 30m hopstand stirred every 5m. The hopstand works so well I question the need for a dry hop. Just did a large dry hop on top of a hopstand and it was not a large improvement. I also think FWH is overrated but have tried it many times and I see no reason to continue doing it.

Fortunately/unfortunately I am not a fan of the danky/tropical hops so it does keep the cost down. That said, I do like Galaxy, it's musky but not offensive to me. Simcoe does nothing but remind me off rehabbing rental properties previously occupied by felines... Nearly all my blends are 50% centennial which is my favorite hop. I see the current trend going toward the dank thing but I am into floral fruit "drinking perfume" thing, as my wife calls it... Some of my better blends included some american noble sister hops, like crystal or sterling and can be had quite cheap. I will say CTZ is killer for the dank thing and is quite cheap too. I dry hopped with it once it was insanely heavy super dank.

I see enough recommendations for an english strain to WL007 next. Still having a tough time wrapping my mind around the science of how an english yeast will bring the hops forward. It must be some kinda of synergistic thing with fruit esters I guess or maybe the yeast strips/scrubs less of the flavor out during fermentation. My hydro samples before pitching tasted wickedly good...

Thanks for input guys :mug:
 
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