Hole in kettle for heating element

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Kmcogar

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Alright guys, I'm about to put the hole in my kettle. Is it absolutely necessary to use a conduit punch? I have a step bit that did a pretty great job for my control box. Is using a step bit for the hole for the element a bad idea?
 
I would imagine the kettle steel to be more difficult to work with but im not sure. I know personally after using both a punch and a step bit on a kettle I would never use the step bit for holes again.
 
I used a Harbor Freight cheap step bit for my heating element.Concord Stainless pot.Worked perfectly fine.And Ive used it after that on other projects and is still goin
 
I've accidently overdrilled many holes with a step bit, never over sized a hole with a punch. That said, if you feel like it's worth the risk a straight drilled correctly sized step bit hole will work as well as a punched hole.
 
For an element, the Harbor Freight step bit, if used properly will be closer in diameter to the actual hole needed than the Harbor Freight electrical punch set. Remember that most punches are the size needed for conduit and will punch bigger than nominal. Cutting oil and SLOW speed works fine with stainless. Start with a standard bit though if using a step bit.
 
I've done a few pots. Ones when I used my Dad's very nice high-torque drill at lower speeds it worked fantastically. With my super cheap one I work-hardened it like crazy and had to use a punch.
 
The punch is so easy and clean. Once I tried it vs the drill, I only used the drill for my pilot holes for the punch.

Less risk of the drill slipping and scratching the crap out of the kettle by going the route of the punch.
 
Thanks for the response! I used my step bit for my control panel and it worked far better then I imagined. I'm gonna go ahead and use it for my kettle. I'll let you know how it goes. Cheers all
 
I used a bi-metal hole saw for bigger holes to weld in TC flanges for my elements. I went a tad undersized and used a dremel sanding bit to sneak up on the right size.

For the valves I used a cheap step bit bought from Amazon. It worked but was very slow going trying to not work harden using a hand drill.
 
I used a hole saw from Home Depot, worked great cutting two 2" holes...

Used a Lennox bi-metal hole saw (slow speed and 3 in 1 oil) then swaged and silver soldered a bunch of 1-1/2" TC ferrules. Not the cleanest hole but swaging sized it right anyway. Each port only took 15 minutes to cut, swage and solder.
 
OK I will reveal my secret with the step bit. I use a 12v cordless drill on low (screwdriver mode) and cutting oil. No problem with the Harbor Freight step bit if used that way. Stop for 30 seconds if you see smoking. You will when you get close to element size .. But you need a torquey slow speed.
 
Keys to successful holes on stainless steel when using any cutting tool, whether step bit or hole saw are:
1) start out with tool cutting edges being sharp.
2) drill operated at slow speed.
3) cutting oil just keeps the tool edges sharp and cuts down on friction, which leads to work hardening.
 
I have already drilled more than two holes in SS with the same Harbor Freight step bit. As long as you go slow and use cutting oil, avoiding work hardening I would bet you could drill a couple of dozens holes with one bit. Do the job right and then don't destroy the tool..
 
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