Help! Planning to switch to electric brewing

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RMessenger

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I'm trying to figure out the best way to convert from propane to electric brewing. I have brew pots capable of 5 gallon batches and an existing 20AMP 240V outlet in my garage for my EV charge station. I'm a little overwhelmed by reading the posts here, and while moderately handy, I would prefer to buy some sort of submersible heat element manufactured specifically for the purpose of brewing. Can anyone recommend a product that I could use to retrofit my current equipment and wouldn't break the bank? (If I were to spend a lot I would just upgrade to 20 gallon Blichmann electric pots to move from 5 to 10 gallon batches.) Is there a product that would allow me to buy one element and switch it from the HLT to the brew kettle as needed the way I currently do with the propane burner? Thank you in advance!
 
I'm trying to figure out the best way to convert from propane to electric brewing. I have brew pots capable of 5 gallon batches and an existing 20AMP 240V outlet in my garage for my EV charge station. I'm a little overwhelmed by reading the posts here, and while moderately handy, I would prefer to buy some sort of submersible heat element manufactured specifically for the purpose of brewing. Can anyone recommend a product that I could use to retrofit my current equipment and wouldn't break the bank? (If I were to spend a lot I would just upgrade to 20 gallon Blichmann electric pots to move from 5 to 10 gallon batches.) Is there a product that would allow me to buy one element and switch it from the HLT to the brew kettle as needed the way I currently do with the propane burner? Thank you in advance!

FOXX Equipment sells a submersible element but you need a business license to buy direct, or you can ask your local homebrew shop to order from them.
http://www.foxxequipment.com/parts.php?id=7626

Kegkits used to manufacture one but last I heard they don't take credit cards anymore.

The best solution is to go ahead and install a stainless steel water heater element in your brew pot and be done with it, then build or buy a brew pot boil controller. You will be much happier in the long run.
 
is there an inverter or is the line/outlet AC power with the inverter being in the car itself?

Can you post pictures of the outlet, plug ends, and breaker ?
 
is there an inverter or is the line/outlet AC power with the inverter being in the car itself?

Can you post pictures of the outlet, plug ends, and breaker ?

It's literally just a 240V outlet with an electric car charge station plugged in, which I could easily unplug when needed or add a second outlet next to it (maybe with a switch so I don't accidentally try to use both at the same time).
 
You should be fine as long as you keep the watts at 4000 or below. You should get a inline gfci cord so you don't fry yourself while cooking.

This one looks like it would do 240v
http://www.zoro.com/i/G0747756/

Then you would just need a water heater a 240v, plug to fit your receptacle, and some 2 strand 12 gauge wire with ground.

That would be the cheapest way, probably about $160 if you wire it yourself and don't need a long cord.
(another cheap option would be to just replace your current breaker with a gfci one, probably around $80).

If you're looking to just plug stuff in and not have to wire anything, the GFCI will cost that much alone.
http://www.rakuten.com/prod/daniel-...-gfci-20-amps-ac-240-volts-pvc/265822846.html


Then you would need to find a water heater that has a 240v 20a plug on it. That might prove challenging. I would message the guy on this thread to see if he could sell one with a plug on it.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f41/prototype-previews-hopback-heat-stick-471766/

Note that the boilcoil uses a twist-lock L6-30P plug for the 20/30 amp version, though perhaps possible to get a 20amp plug on it? not sure.


Also note that 3500 watts is quite potent. I just added a heater of this size to my kettle and it is almost too much for 5 gallon batches without some type of voltage controller.
 
your best bet is something with actual heat element control to control the temps/boil.... They are very easy to wire up.

Also keep in mind a spa panel with a gfci installed inside is usually cheaper than just the same gfci breaker without the box... I know it doesnt make sense but thats what I have found... home depot sells a 50A spa panel with gfci (this will function fine for gfci protection with even a 20a line) for like $50 vs just a gfci breaker alone which they sell for $80... Its only $30 but its still stupid.
 

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