The only reason to take a gravity reading while the beer still shows signs of fermentation is curiosity. And while curiosity is a noble endeavor, in this case I advise against it. First of all, it's not going to give you any useful information. Even if you learn how close it is to your expected final gravity, the reading gives you no predictive power to estimate when it will actually be done. You can't (read: shouldn't) do anything to speed up or stop fermentation at this point; you just need to let it finish. Tasting it at this point, will let you know what still-fermenting beer tastes like, but will not give an accurate representation of the final beer.
Secondly, the more times you open your fermenter for readings, the more opportunities you have for contamination and oxidation. Wait until all signs of fermentation have stopped for at least a couple of days before taking your reading. If you're using carboys, it's pretty obvious: the krausen has fallen and the beer starts clearing. If you're using a bucket, your main indicator is the airlock - even tough we keep saying the airlock is not a reliable indicator of fermentation activity. You can open the lid just enough to peek in. If the top of the beer looks like dirty foam, that's the krausen, and it's still fermenting. If it looks like beer, go ahead and take your reading.
I would be remiss not to mention that many of us experienced brewers are advocating "long primary" fermentation, where we leave all of our beers in the fermenters for three or four weeks before even taking a hydrometer reading. This is still a little controversial, and until just a few years ago it was considered something you should never, ever do, but many of us (myself included) have seen great improvements. What are the advantages? For almost all beers, fermentation is guaranteed to be done at 3 weeks, so there's no guessing about whether or not it's done; the yeast has plenty of time to clean up certain off-flavor byproducts of fermentation; the trub layer at the bottom of the fermenter will compact making it easier to rack the beer away without getting a lot of gunk; particulates will continue to fall out of the beer in the fermenter making your final cold-conditioned beer clearer with less bottle trub.
When you do take a reading, you can pour it back in as long as you are scrupulous about your sanitation. I rinse my test cylinder in Star San, rinse the hydrometer in Star San, use Star San to start the siphon with which I take the sample, keep the airlock and stopper in my bucket of Star San while I'm taking the sample, and spray the mouth of my carboy with Star San before and after I siphon out the sample. After I've taken the reading, I pour all but about two ounces of the sample back in the carboy, and drink the remainder.