Well, really I was set at 156, and I think it got to 157 bc it did t expect me to turn the pump off. That 155 reading is really just 1 below my intended mash temp
well after like 150 brews with my machine the pump finally got enough beerscale junk stuck in it to stop it.
just removed it, took a toothbrush to the impeller and casing, reinstalled, working great!
Very valuable information. thank's. I only bewed 5 batches so I still have 145 to go.well after like 150 brews with my machine the pump finally got enough beerscale junk stuck in it to stop it.
just removed it, took a toothbrush to the impeller and casing, reinstalled, working great!
New to this thread, I just received my Grainfather today and I am very excited to get it going. I want to skim through this thread but 105 pages...eh. I was seeing reflectix insulation on the first several pages of this thread, but there is also the graincoat.
I've done extract brews for a couple of years and a couple BIAB so I felt like this would allow me to progress without adding a huge storage or brewday footprint.
Any great tips from the long time users?
Thanks for the info! I just ran across a video where a guy put a screw clamp on the rubber filter cap, so I might do that. I also got a hop spider after hearing about hops filling/pulling through the filter. How about grain crush?Welcome to the club .You'll like your grainfather. 1) There is a 2.5-3" wide strip of what appears to be yellow sheet fiberglass curled around the inside of the kettle just above the pump inlet. This is packing material so remove it . 2) Be sure that all the 3 plugs are properly inserted in the control box so they will not overheat. 3) when stiring the boiling wort, stir counterclockwise so you will not knock the filter cap off the filter. 4) rinse and clean your grainfather as soon as possibl after each brew.
Yeah, that's what got me to pull the trigger. Just got it.I'm so tempted to pull the trigger on a GF. Right now NB has a 20% off coupon that makes it $799 + free shipping!
Yeah, that's what got me to pull the trigger. Just got it.
I also just got my grains last night. I don't yet have a mill so I asked for them crushed. The grain looks barely cracked, like most are intact but they might have a crack inside. Should I even use this in my Grainfather or try to get it re-milled? It was a kit and I don't have extra to accommodate a 60% efficiency.
Sorry for another post but I was reading through this thread and it seems like the filter being the most common issue. I saw David Heath talking about a RB false bottom that will work perfectly as an upgrade part for the GF. Anyone try this?
The reason GF uses the cylinder filter off to the side is to allow access to the bottom during the boil. Just my preference, but I would never run a false bottom in the GF. My friend with a Robobrew dislikes the false bottom for this very reason.
The 2 main problems with the GF filter are easily addressed. 1. Cut a piece of SS wire about 3 inches long and run it through the diameter of the filter just below the cap when it is installed. Pull the wire ends up over the top of the cap and twist the ends like a bread-tie. This will keep the cap from falling off during boil and can be kept in the filter for the next use. 2. Install a small SS hose clamp on the filter outlet, install the filter with clamp onto the GF pump inlet, and then tighten the clamp to apply just enough pressure to hold the filter nose on but not so tight that it cannot be removed or placed back on. Once you have this setting there is no need to touch it and it will work every time without having to adjust it repeatedly. Also remove the useless ball and spring. They restrict flow even when clean and when they catch and trap matter they can shut down the flow entirely.
I have 2 grainfathers with well over 100 batches done in each. I love the GF filter design. I have done everything from light lagers to double IPA's with 6 or more oz of hops through the boil and have never had any problems. Having the wort flow through the hops as they build up on the filter is a plus to me. The slower flow takes a little more time to fill the fermenter, but it also makes the counter-chiller work even better. After removing the spring and ball I have never had zero flow. Ditch the ball and spring and keep the filter.
I always wondered about that. Is it that easy to take apart,clean up and reinstall? Pretty self explanatory?
I always wondered about that. Is it that easy to take apart,clean up and reinstall? Pretty self explanatory?
I'm asking this as well about the pump. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but my GF is still under warranty, so I don't want to start taking stuff apart that doesn't need it. I've had my GF less than a year, but I've been brewing for over 7 years, all grain for about 6.5 of those. So I know how gunked up things can become if you don't scrub the crap off of them. Is the pump easy to take apart/put back together? And also, is it worth worrying about until an issue arises. I'm the type of person who likes to stay on top of things and would rather clean now than have a crappy brew day.
Ive whirlpooled with a paddle and drill, but i think i get the same results from just recirculating(and its a lot less work)People seem to be a big fan of whirlpooling, I haven't yet gotten a paddle for this but I plan to get something like the Jaybird whirlpool paddle and throw it in my drill.
Anyone else do something simular?
Ive whirlpooled with a paddle and drill, but i think i get the same results from just recirculating(and its a lot less work)
The Grainfather does not automatically boil during sparge unless you set it to. It never happened to me.
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