Grainfather!!

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Not accusing you of it doing this, but it almost sounds like you had a gallon too much in there from the start? I've done that before where the line I thought was the 4 gal line ended up being the 5 gal so I had to scoop some out to get down to the level I needed. I've also started referencing my volumes in liters as that has more graduations and can be more accurate. Like if i need 4.89 gallons of strike, I google it and see i need about 18.5 L.
 
How many people brew with the GF in the kitchen ? How do you handle drips and spills ? How do you sparge ? What does your SO think of you brewing in the kitchen ?

Thanks
I do, and outdoors when weather is nice. Likely moving to basement brew area I'm working on (after I complete my kitchen island, new cabinets come in this week!). I don't make too much of a mess, but on hardwood floors its an easy wipe, and I do clean the floors at the end of most brew days. Manual sparge with a pitcher, heat water on stove top, it remains there throughout my sparge with lid on and heat either off or on low. SO, hates the smell, but we work out so I have the kitchen on brew days.

...OK issue at hand. I had my first brew day with the GF last night. Had a few issues. First, the sparging seemed to go REALLY fast. Like I could not keep up with the water level dropping. Normal?

Next, I'm not sure if I had the equipment profile wrong, or it was just something else. My OG was WAYYYYYY off. 13 points off. But I am 90% sure it was due to boil off. I wanted a 5.25 gallon batch. I collected 5.7 Gallons of wort in my fermenter. The GF had like 2.5 gallons left in the kettle. The boil was pretty pathetic, so I'm not sure it actually hit the proper boil off level. The kettle was over the scale inside, so I'm not 100% sure how much was being boiled.

12 pounds of grain, asked for 5 gallons of water, and 3.75 gallons of sparge water.

No, not normal. First, did you push the top plate down after the 1st runnings completed? (it may fall down on its own, but IME the grain bed compacts about 4" after draining). If you didn't this open space may have led to your results.

As for your volume, I came up with same mash water but just ~3g of sparge. You do have to play around with your figures not just working on your boil off rate and boil length, but also amount of hops. I too used to overshoot my vol into fermenter, now I'm dialed in and I find ~1L left in GF (I tip towards pump) and 1/2c in CFC at best.

But what I really don't understand is if the GF had 2.5g left in boiler & you got 5.75g in fermenter, how was that with grain absorption of ~1.5g+?? Something isn't adding up here...

Looking at grain absorption, .13gal per lb, you would lose 1.56 gallon to 12 lbs of grain via absorption. If you wanted 5.25 gallons into the fermenter, with trub losses of 1 gal, and boil off of .6 per hour, I see 5.25 + 1 + .6 + 1.56 = or 8.41 total volume of water.

With a mash thickness of 1.33 quarts/lb, that's 15.96 quarts or 3.96 gallons, + .9 in deadspace below mash pipe. That's 4.89 gallons of strike water, and 8.41-4.89 = 3.52 gallons of sparge or so? Not far off I don't think. Of course my calculations could be a bit off so there's always that.

Maybe a combination of lack of boil off with maybe too large of a crush or something that the grain didn't absorb as much? What were the pre/post boil volumes?

I think your trub loss is too high, unless you use a LOT of hops, which indeed will change the calcs. I'm still ~.4g< than your calc.
 
Not accusing you of it doing this, but it almost sounds like you had a gallon too much in there from the start? I've done that before where the line I thought was the 4 gal line ended up being the 5 gal so I had to scoop some out to get down to the level I needed. I've also started referencing my volumes in liters as that has more graduations and can be more accurate. Like if i need 4.89 gallons of strike, I google it and see i need about 18.5 L.

Suppose that could be an issue as well. I took 5 gallons of spring water and poured them in, so unless those are wrong... If this was the case, it was likely from the sparge water. Does sparge water absorb too? Because I'm pretty sure sparging went horribly, horribly, wrong. Like pouring it through a net wrong.


No, not normal. First, did you push the top plate down after the 1st runnings completed? (it may fall down on its own, but IME the grain bed compacts about 4" after draining). If you didn't this open space may have led to your results.

Bingo. I did not do that.

As for your volume, I came up with same mash water but just ~3g of sparge. You do have to play around with your figures not just working on your boil off rate and boil length, but also amount of hops. I too used to overshoot my vol into fermenter, now I'm dialed in and I find ~1L left in GF (I tip towards pump) and 1/2c in CFC at best.

But what I really don't understand is if the GF had 2.5g left in boiler & you got 5.75g in fermenter, how was that with grain absorption of ~1.5g+?? Something isn't adding up here...

I am very confused as well. There was so much left over. I double checked my boil off rate in BeerSmith, and that was correct (from post 1231 in this thread, and what the GF manual said.)


I think your trub loss is too high, unless you use a LOT of hops, which indeed will change the calcs. I'm still ~.4g< than your calc.

I'll have to check this as well. I only had 2.5 oz of hops in this batch. Less than a cup of trub in the kettle, and I usually have about .4 gal of trub in the fermenter as well.


I'll be brewing again on Sunday with some alterations. Hope I get closer this time :)
 
How many people brew with the GF in the kitchen ? How do you handle drips and spills ? How do you sparge ? What does your SO think of you brewing in the kitchen ?



Thanks


My SO hates the smell and all things craft beerish. That being said, I'm semi-retired and she works so I brew when she's working and all is cleaned up by the time she's back. Double sinks are fine with aerator, composite floor, range hood for boil off. I'm planning on migrating everything to basement but that requires exhaust, sink, laundry tub and pump and some alterations and logistics. I've already got a kegerator and lagering fridge there so that's a great start. Now to bring in the other kegerator from the garage with my gas cylinders and get everything set up is the challenge. A one year plan I'm thinkin'...
 
Because I'm pretty sure sparging went horribly, horribly, wrong. Like pouring it through a net wrong.

Sounds like it tunneled through the grains and like a sieve, right through. Usually takes me 15-20 minutes minimum to put 3-4 gallons of sparge water through.
 
Hey all, I just got an email that the Grainfather Connect is (finally) available in the US! I have already ordered mine. Really looking forward to trying it out - I will post some thoughts after I get to use it in case anyone is interested. I'm hoping it will allow me to brew during a workday by setting up before work, then having the water heated by the time I get home.
 
Hey all, I just got an email that the Grainfather Connect is (finally) available in the US! I have already ordered mine. Really looking forward to trying it out - I will post some thoughts after I get to use it in case anyone is interested. I'm hoping it will allow me to brew during a workday by setting up before work, then having the water heated by the time I get home.


Yes, I just saw that. They announced it on their Facebook page as well. Here's a link to the bundle deal they're offering.


https://www.grainfather.com/shop/grainfather/grainfather-connect-bundle.html
 
Floor in the kitchen is hard surface, so spills/drips are no big deal. Actually, SO doesn't mind at all since the kitchen ends up cleaner than when I started.
I put a 20qt kettle on the stove for sparge water and carry it over to the counter for sparging, with a 4 cup glass measuring cup. Works slick. :ban:

Yep pretty much !
 
The bundle deal is the same price as when the new ones come out. They are just trying to liquidate all of the old grainfathers with the "normal/mash" switches because going forward they will all have just an on/off switch instead. Doesn't bother me any just leaving it on normal, so why not get an extra controller in case something goes wrong?
 
The bundle deal is the same price as when the new ones come out. They are just trying to liquidate all of the old grainfathers with the "normal/mash" switches because going forward they will all have just an on/off switch instead. Doesn't bother me any just leaving it on normal, so why not get an extra controller in case something goes wrong?

yeah, why i ordered mine anyway.
 
Where did you get the figures for your mash and sparge volumes? For a 5.25 gal. batch, the Grainfather calculator calls for 4.81 gal. mash water and 2.65 gal. sparge water for a 60 min. boil, or 2.91 gal. for a 90 min. boil.

https://www.grainfather.com/brewing-calculators


Thats what I ended up with using the modified GF profile from post 1231 in this thread. Here is what I have now for a profile:

22 quarts for mash and 3 gallons sparge. 8.5gallons total. it still looks way off, but now the estimated OG is 5 points higher. I am way confused... It all looks like its always way too much water.

beersmith grainfather.PNG
 
Why do you have lauter/mash tun losses? Those should be 0 or counted as a mashtun addition.

Why do you have too-up water for the kettle? Are you losing an equivalent volume somewhere?
 
Why do you have lauter/mash tun losses? Those should be 0 or counted as a mashtun addition.

Why do you have too-up water for the kettle? Are you losing an equivalent volume somewhere?

damn good question. I have no idea. I followed the profile adjustments from this thread. I changed those, and I got 4.1 gallons for mash, and 4.4 gallons sparge. After absorption, this seems a bit more accurate.
 
Hey all, I just got an email that the Grainfather Connect is (finally) available in the US! I have already ordered mine. Really looking forward to trying it out - I will post some thoughts after I get to use it in case anyone is interested. I'm hoping it will allow me to brew during a workday by setting up before work, then having the water heated by the time I get home.

got a better deal at AIH. same price but rewards plus free shipping. I might have to wait a little bit longer to receive mine though
 
Is it not possible to change that "tap valve" on the GF heater to a ball valve? I am asking because that is what I was planning on doing to mine. Was hoping it had been done before.

Its possible, but you would most likely ha r to drill out the opening g, voiding any warranty
Mine is over soon so I will be doing this.
 
damn good question. I have no idea. I followed the profile adjustments from this thread. I changed those, and I got 4.1 gallons for mash, and 4.4 gallons sparge. After absorption, this seems a bit more accurate.


Another resource is to check would be if beersmith has a grainfather equipment profile.
 
How does one empty a GF after cleaning it ?

Does some water remained trapped in the tube going to the pump ?
 
Its possible, but you would most likely ha r to drill out the opening g, voiding any warranty
Mine is over soon so I will be doing this.


I believe I suggested this before. In retrospect I would lose my sight glass and hence will go with my original plan, ie - to attach a mini ball valve to an extended silicone hose.
 
I ordered the new controller from AIH today as well to see how it works out.

I decided to order this ball valve for the sparge heater for now to run inline. Hopefully it will flow enough. They do have a 1/2" version as well but I got the 3/8".

https://www.kegworks.com/inline-ball-valve-shut-off

I also ordered the blichmann brumometer 3/8" to run inline on the wort out side of my chiller so I can tell the actual temp of the wort coming out.

I think these few things should dramatically help with the ease of use of the grainfather, especially once the grainfather recipe builder gets released.
 
How does one empty a GF after cleaning it ?

Does some water remained trapped in the tube going to the pump ?


I pick it up and dump out the last bit that the pump can't get. The handle is very sturdy. I leave the pump valve open (check valve taken out) and it dumps out of there as well.
 
Concerning the new controller, I read the description of it AFTER I bought it [emoji3] as that was never a question. Anyway, the description says 2000w heating. I'm wondering if this new controller is able to turn on both heating elements, if indeed there are two, for an increased boil as opposed to the 1600w OR 400w we've all been brewing with.
 
Concerning the new controller, I read the description of it AFTER I bought it [emoji3] as that was never a question. Anyway, the description says 2000w heating. I'm wondering if this new controller is able to turn on both heating elements, if indeed there are two, for an increased boil as opposed to the 1600w OR 400w we've all been brewing with.

probably not as its the same controller for EU and their element Is 2kw


my GF should be showing up today/tomorrow \o/
 
Here is my equipment profile with calcs in the notes area based on the original GF instruction manual formula.




Also, I made these adjustments:
http://www.beersmith.com/forum/index.php/topic,14483.msg57259.html#msg57259

I hit my efficiency, vols and gravities spot on most of the times.

Thats exactly what I used for this batch. I'm more thinking me not hitting gravity was based on the sparge not actually sparging, and the boil just not hitting its thing. Definitely going to try again with that profile and get some reflectix before I do adjustments.
 
I ordered the new controller from AIH today as well to see how it works out.

I decided to order this ball valve for the sparge heater for now to run inline. Hopefully it will flow enough. They do have a 1/2" version as well but I got the 3/8".

https://www.kegworks.com/inline-ball-valve-shut-off

I also ordered the blichmann brumometer 3/8" to run inline on the wort out side of my chiller so I can tell the actual temp of the wort coming out.

I think these few things should dramatically help with the ease of use of the grainfather, especially once the grainfather recipe builder gets released.


That's exactly what I proposed...let me know how it works out ASAP as our GF controllers aren't in til February on this side of the line...I'm likely not brewing until then...just fermenting Festa all grains...
 
That's exactly what I proposed...let me know how it works out ASAP as our GF controllers aren't in til February on this side of the line...I'm likely not brewing until then...just fermenting Festa all grains...

Will do.

For anyone who wants to add a brumometer to their chiller, there is one in the for sale section of this forum right now for $16 shipped. I wish I would've seen that before I bought mine.

Also, what are you guys running your grain mill gap setting at? I saw somewhere but can't find it now, that .55 was recommended for the grainfather.
 
Just ordered a Grainfather,graincoat,mangrove jack spider,refractometer and preordered the new controller&#55357;&#56832; So excited....hope it boils ok.

Can't wait!!!

Jamie
 
Will do.

For anyone who wants to add a brumometer to their chiller, there is one in the for sale section of this forum right now for $16 shipped. I wish I would've seen that before I bought mine.

Also, what are you guys running your grain mill gap setting at? I saw somewhere but can't find it now, that .55 was recommended for the grainfather.


Thanks for the lead on the sale! I have been setting the gap on my cereal killer to .35-.39. I did get a stuck sparge on a rye ipa. Now i use rice hulls. My efficiency was 82% on my last two.
 
Also, what are you guys running your grain mill gap setting at? I saw somewhere but can't find it now, that .55 was recommended for the grainfather.

I am pretty consistently setting at .038 on my millars mill. I use rice hulls on every grain bill under 10lbs.
 
brewed quite a bit with my grainfather, just a couple things

1. That stupid check valve is a pain in the dick, i have taken it out and its not going back in.

2. Longer hose on the inlet of the chiller, this would make cleaning easier so it doesnt have to sit on top.

3. Im certain the grainbed isnt staying at the proper temperature when mashing, now this is a complicated problem because grainbed drainage is different with each brew. Im brewing this weekend and i want to stick my remote thermometer in the middle of my grainbed and monitor the temperature.

This unit is still so great for apartment brewers!
 
brewed quite a bit with my grainfather, just a couple things

1. That stupid check valve is a pain in the dick, i have taken it out and its not going back in.

2. Longer hose on the inlet of the chiller, this would make cleaning easier so it doesnt have to sit on top.

3. Im certain the grainbed isnt staying at the proper temperature when mashing, now this is a complicated problem because grainbed drainage is different with each brew. Im brewing this weekend and i want to stick my remote thermometer in the middle of my grainbed and monitor the temperature.

This unit is still so great for apartment brewers!

Yes on the apartment. Whether or not my grain bed temperature is accurate, I haven't made a brew with mine that has disappointed me.
 
Back
Top