Grainfather!!

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what's the max grain bill folks have used? I just made a rye porter that was just shy of 17lb and noticed that when mashing, it was almost topped off. i noticed that while mashing and recirculating, a lot of wort was flowing through the side holes where the lifting handle fits in. is this normal for larger grain bills? I mashed w/ 6.75 gal water. i was wanting to do a large barley wine soon but worried about fitting anything more than 17lb of grains.

I haven't gone that high yet, only to 15#. Interesting point that it was circulating through those side holes, how high then was that on the overflow tube? Maybe throw in some rice hulls in larger batches to improve water flow. I do throttle mine back to avoid the overflow, and generally I can open up wider as the mash progresses. Did you adjust?
 
It's called the "Mash & Boil" by Brewer's Edge. 300 clams. No pump, no chiller, but both of those can be purchased for between $50 and $100, depending on what you want.

And before someone razes me for bashing the Grainfather, I'm not poo pooing the GF. Just trying to show there are alternatives, like Nexus phones and iPhones.

I saw that as well. As a Grainfather user, a couple of things that stand out to me about this unit: 1) these units (Grainfather included) are too tall to use on a counter top and still be able to raise the mash tun and sparge without getting a ladder out, so you have to put it on the floor or a very low platform. This means that to read the controller screen and program this new unit, you would need to get down on the floor, since the screen is attached to the base of the unit. 2) no built-in pump for re-circulation. Yes, I know you can add one but that just adds back to the cost and complexity of the process. Just my .02 worth.
 
I haven't gone that high yet, only to 15#. Interesting point that it was circulating through those side holes, how high then was that on the overflow tube? Maybe throw in some rice hulls in larger batches to improve water flow. I do throttle mine back to avoid the overflow, and generally I can open up wider as the mash progresses. Did you adjust?

Yeah thats what i do sometimes. Close the valve some and later in the mash you can open it all the way. The rice hulls are interesting though never even knew about it until a few days ago! haha
 
For anyone reading this thread, debating the purchase of a Grainfather, here's an interesting cheap alternative Couldn't find it on the interwebs, hence the snapshot. Just saw it in the William's Brewing catalog.

It's called the "Mash & Boil" by Brewer's Edge. 300 clams. No pump, no chiller, but both of those can be purchased for between $50 and $100, depending on what you want.

And before someone razes me for bashing the Grainfather, I'm not poo pooing the GF. Just trying to show there are alternatives, like Nexus phones and iPhones.

Thats a really neat system. One of the attractions for the GF for me was that i could buy a alembic pot however. But other then that i would probably bought one of these if it was available a year ago. Looks like gas systems will being going to the dojo soon! lol for homebrewers. Electric is so much more mellow so to speak. Then firing up a big propane burner and refilling tanks - outside usually.

Looks like a great and relatively cheap product to get in AG brewing. Which in my opinion is worlds apart from most extract.
 
I saw that as well. As a Grainfather user, a couple of things that stand out to me about this unit: 1) these units (Grainfather included) are too tall to use on a counter top and still be able to raise the mash tun and sparge without getting a ladder out, so you have to put it on the floor or a very low platform. This means that to read the controller screen and program this new unit, you would need to get down on the floor, since the screen is attached to the base of the unit. 2) no built-in pump for re-circulation. Yes, I know you can add one but that just adds back to the cost and complexity of the process. Just my .02 worth.

I thought the controller placement was odd as well. My guess, it minimizes the cost, keeping the wire routing very simple and short.

My original thought was that a pump would not be needed with a simple system like this. But I was curious about the ability to do step mashes without one so I posed a question on their website. Sounds like they're doable if you sporadically attend to the mash by stirring every so often.

The other issue with not having a pump is getting wort into the fermenter. Without a pump it would seem that the system needs to be elevated a touch. And as you mentioned, you'll have to find some creative way to sparge if it's elevated.

Not insurmountable issues, especially at $600 cheaper than the GF, but definitely things that need to be considered in the comparison.
 
I haven't gone that high yet, only to 15#. Interesting point that it was circulating through those side holes, how high then was that on the overflow tube? Maybe throw in some rice hulls in larger batches to improve water flow. I do throttle mine back to avoid the overflow, and generally I can open up wider as the mash progresses. Did you adjust?

i put a half pound of rice hulls in it since i had 4 pounds of rye in the bill. though am planning to start adding them to all batches since the mash usually pretty thick and hard to stir regardless. i did throttle the circulation a little but it kept happening.

another issues was because of the large grain bills, the tube kept getting pinched and i had to adjust it a few times so it would circulate right. i also noticed when taking the grain basket out there was was several inches (around 6") of dead space between the top of the spent grain and the top mesh plate. not sure why there was such a loss of volume. next time, i might try a little less mash water and top off if needed.
 
I'm with Elreplica on this one, no razz, glad to see you brought this up! This is a simpler approach, but would be something I'd seriously have considered a year ago, especially if one considers the DIY aspect of putting a pump in if one chose to use a recirc system. I think I'd want to recirc too, as I presume a similar heating element setup in base as the GF would not be as efficient in heating the entire grain bed.



If, and I hope not, my GF craps out some day, I'd certainly research this alternative. Will be listening for folks here who go this route, how it performs and for those that come up with mods (esp recirc).



I bet the GF folks won't be pleased to see this come out in Jan!


The GF peeps have already dealt with this as the Robobrew has been out and concurrent to the GF...I like to tinker a bit but when it comes to serious **** like brewing and beer I don't bless around...turnkey and proven works best for me.
 
Just looked up the robobrew. Never heard of that until now. A few more dollars than the mash and boil but at least that comes with a chiller. Too bad its a 240v. Like stated above, if my grainfather ever dies on me to the point where it's unrepairable, I'd take a look at the mash and boil due to the price before buying another grainfather. Love my grainfather more than anything but $300 vs. 8-900 is worth looking at. I'l wait until it's released so I can watch brew day videos on youtube of it.
 
Just looked up the robobrew. Never heard of that until now. A few more dollars than the mash and boil but at least that comes with a chiller. Too bad its a 240v. Like stated above, if my grainfather ever dies on me to the point where it's unrepairable, I'd take a look at the mash and boil due to the price before buying another grainfather. Love my grainfather more than anything but $300 vs. 8-900 is worth looking at. I'l wait until it's released so I can watch brew day videos on youtube of it.

I hadn't either, not sure if its for sale outside of ANZ, but would require 120v like GF for US/CD mkt. Seems more bare bones (e.g. no grain basket legs) and ~336 USD (if held at 449 AUD), so bit more to get chiller at cost of the clunky sparge step. I too would consider the mash & boil, and would enjoy mods to add a pump to recirc possibly, certainly would use an existing CFC or build one. I'd also build a platform to elevate it about 2', so at sparge it would still only extend to 64", easy enough to still sparge while standing on the ground. I like options!

@domdom- the dead space you talk about I presume is after the initial runoff. That's normal and generally the top plate will fall down towards the grain bed, if not push it down to rest on the top of the bed (when intial mash has drained off) and then begin your sparge step. Yeah, I bet that recirc tube would get a bit twisted/kinked up with such a large grain bill.
 
For anyone reading this thread, debating the purchase of a Grainfather, here's an interesting cheap alternative Couldn't find it on the interwebs, hence the snapshot. Just saw it in the William's Brewing catalog.

wow does that look tempting. Im not sure I can justify the grainfathers price (though it IS nice). But 300? I could sell a few of my RC cars that I dont use anymore and pick one of these up no problem.

Though I do like the GF already being a recirc setup. All about compromises I guess.
 
Question on the temp probe. I just got mine and set up the other night. Does the temp probe just freely slide into the insert that protrudes into the kettle? It concerned me that it is free to move in and out. I figured it would have some way to secure in place to prevent movement.
 
Question on the temp probe. I just got mine and set up the other night. Does the temp probe just freely slide into the insert that protrudes into the kettle? It concerned me that it is free to move in and out. I figured it would have some way to secure in place to prevent movement.

Nope thats it. I normally check that its firmly in the thermowell before i mash. I even have taken the probe out during chilling because the temp. readout is useless at that point. One of the major flaws of the GF instructions.
 
Thanks Seabrew.

Few things for discussion.

Whats the deal with the discharge pipe fitting with the spring and ball bearing? It won't allow water to be pumped past. I thought my pump was bad or needed primed. More worried about it being air locked and getting hot. I was worried for a bit something was wrong. Took that part off and water went from kettle into pump, through tube, and back into kettle. It seems the spring is too long and is keeping the ball seated to completely stop flow. Any ideas? The ball is defiantly pushed tight by the spring when the valve is both open and closed. In my mind- it would completely stop all flow.


Has anyone built a round dolly with locking 360 degree wheels? I noticed today during my cleaning and test run that it would be nice to have a mobility possibility sometimes.

Best way to hook CFC to garden hose or garden outlet? Mine leaked with the fittings provided.
 
Thanks Seabrew.


Has anyone built a round dolly with locking 360 degree wheels? I noticed today during my cleaning and test run that it would be nice to have a mobility possibility sometimes.

Best way to hook CFC to garden hose or garden outlet? Mine leaked with the fittings provided.

Well I know what I'm making at work on Monday. Also mine leaks a little as well. I just tuck it in to the washing machine and let it drip in there where I collect the output water to wash a load of clothes with later.
 
Thanks Seabrew.

Few things for discussion.

Whats the deal with the discharge pipe fitting with the spring and ball bearing? It won't allow water to be pumped past. I thought my pump was bad or needed primed. More worried about it being air locked and getting hot. I was worried for a bit something was wrong. Took that part off and water went from kettle into pump, through tube, and back into kettle. It seems the spring is too long and is keeping the ball seated to completely stop flow. Any ideas? The ball is defiantly pushed tight by the spring when the valve is both open and closed. In my mind- it would completely stop all flow.


Has anyone built a round dolly with locking 360 degree wheels? I noticed today during my cleaning and test run that it would be nice to have a mobility possibility sometimes.

Best way to hook CFC to garden hose or garden outlet? Mine leaked with the fittings provided.

I removed the spring and ball quite a longtime ago. I don't even know were it is. lol Yeah the CFC fitting leaks a little i just place a dish rag over the facet. If i thread it on the facet correctly sometimes it won't leak.
 
Well I know what I'm making at work on Monday. Also mine leaks a little as well. I just tuck it in to the washing machine and let it drip in there where I collect the output water to wash a load of clothes with later.

DeVault DEV3000B 16" Plant Dolly Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002TRWJLA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I am not sure what the diameter is on the base right now, but this comes in different sizes. Also with the hole in the middle, you still have access to the reset button on the base.
 
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NE IPA time is it? I just brewed a NE IPA on mine this past weekend. 16% flaked oats, I just used 2 big handfuls of rice hulls and it worked fine. I didn't adjust my grainbill or water and it all worked out well. I'm still dialing in my numbers on the GF so I was slightly off on my OG (1.060 vs 1.063 on the low side) but physically the machine performed fine.

I ended up with some stringy, gummy junk on the pump filter when I was cleaning up which I figure was due to the oats. The pump seemed a bit slow but the sparge was fine.

Let us know how the NE IPA comes out:rockin:
 
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Thanks Seabrew.

Few things for discussion.

Whats the deal with the discharge pipe fitting with the spring and ball bearing? It won't allow water to be pumped past.

That is actually a safety device designed to keep you from getting a face full of boiling wort if you inadvertently remove the connection to the recirc arm or CFC connector without remembering to turn off the pump or close the valve. If you look at the recirc arm and CFC connectors, they have a little nose piece that pushes the safety valve open when tightened in proper position. My biggest gripe with the check valve is that it is always full of rice hulls and trash at the end of the brew day and needs to be disassembled and cleaned. I also worry that it's just a matter of time until I have to take it apart in the middle of a mash because it has finally clogged.
 
My biggest gripe with the check valve is that it is always full of rice hulls and trash at the end of the brew day and needs to be disassembled and cleaned. I also worry that it's just a matter of time until I have to take it apart in the middle of a mash because it has finally clogged.

Backflush?
 
Easier to screw it off and clean it, probably. Anything you back flushed would end up in the pump or filter and would come back up once you start the pump again.
 
Well I went through a practice run today with an extract recipe. Gotta burn through it and figured it would be better this way than first time all grain. Did the Sierra Nv pale ale clone

Things went well. Had the struggles with pellet hops and the pump. Slowed down some but never clogged.

One positive is ....wow!!!! I wasted a lot of my life using an immersion chiller. CFCs are awesome!!! Like instantly chilled. I was amazed.

Still need to get fittings and such figured out on that thing so I can use more efficiently where I brew in garage.

I have read that cleaning is a breeze. After my initial setup and then this brew session today- still stuggling to dial it in. To me, there are a lot of dumping, rinsing, dumping, connecting:disconnecting, and then dumping+ drying with towel. Am I over doing it? The reason why I am concerned is that this $700+ piece of equipment isn't easy to dump and I don't want to break it, but I want it clean and not to build up junk, or oxy clean in next batch.
 
I use only about 1-2 gallons of water each time I wash/rinse. Makes it easier to lift and dump. Don't forget to run Oxy or PBW through pump and circ arm and then water to rinse .
 
I use only about 1-2 gallons of water each time I wash/rinse. Makes it easier to lift and dump. Don't forget to run Oxy or PBW through pump and circ arm and then water to rinse .

Thanks Tex. That is basically what I did. Just very cumbersome compared to the old fryer I used.

Judging by your signature I would enjoy your stash of home brew!

Next brew is outer limits IPA. Than a cascade/Columbus pale ale is what i am trying to design with the ingriedents I will have left. Should put me out of the extract business. Then doing a lot of recipe digging. Have a red ale all grain kit sitting and waiting.
 
Get the spider. You will love it. I still get a cake of hop particles/hot break that builds up on the filter but not enough to clog it. Actually seems to act like a filter. My wort going into the fermenter has never been clearer.:mug:
 
Is the hop spider deep enough to work if you're doing small batch (3 gallon batches in my case)?
 
@phishie - I've got the Manjack Grove hop spider, so the "official" Grainfather version I suppose. I can put it in my Grainfather tonight and see where the bottom of the spider ends up in the kettle if you are interested. The spider is huge, I would think it would work okay.
 
...I have read that cleaning is a breeze. .... To me, there are a lot of dumping, rinsing, dumping, connecting:disconnecting, and then dumping+ drying with towel. Am I over doing it?

You didn't read that from any of my posts! :) Its time consuming, so not a breeze, but it does clean up easy, still, like you, I also dry with towel, and then paper towels (don't forget to remove the ring that holds the grain basket in place). This takes time but keeps it looking good!

Is the hop spider deep enough to work if you're doing small batch (3 gallon batches in my case)?

If it isn't just make a mod, like add length with a wire tie or so. No problem.
 
To me, there are a lot of dumping, rinsing, dumping, connecting:disconnecting, and then dumping+ drying with towel. Am I over doing it? The reason why I am concerned is that this $700+ piece of equipment isn't easy to dump and I don't want to break it, but I want it clean and not to build up junk, or oxy clean in next batch.

It takes time but is not hard. I use the pump to pump most of the water out, so am cleaning the recirc and CFC at the same time. Then I only dump the last 1/2 gallon or so.
 
Waiting impatiently for my Grainfather to be delivered... This weather is killing me, everything is delayed!
 
Waiting impatiently for my Grainfather to be delivered... This weather is killing me, everything is delayed!

Could be worse.. im debating trying to brew this weekend with a high of 43 :\
 
Could be worse.. im debating trying to brew this weekend with a high of 47 :\

I would kill for 47, windchill right now is -16. The wind is blowing about 35 miles an hour and we have probably a foot and a half of snow on the ground and blowing around. :(
 
View from my window at work right now...:(

IMG_0416.jpg
 
If you use BrewSmith to develop your recipes, it will assist in establishing the right strike water temperature by entering the grain temperature in the mash profile. I've found it does a rather good job providing you have changed some settings in BeerSmith to fit the Grainfather. Use the attached profiles and explanation to make the necessary changes. By the way, by making these changes, BrewSmith's inability to accurated calculate mash and sparge water quantities are also fixed

I have been setting up some profiles in brewsmith and used the profile techniques here.

I want to setup for 3 gallon (for approx 1 case) batches. Would switching on calculate boil volume automatically and adjusting batch volume keep things adjusted correctly? I don't want to screw something up and have stumbled along a profile for small batches.
 
Temperature chart of my today's brew. I was using my controller with GrainFather.

It's a low OG beer,
grains:8.5lb
Mash water: 4 gal
Sparge water: 3.2 gal
Result: 1.046/5.6Gal wort in fermenter. (I am gonna add honey ater 2~3 days. haven't decided to pasteurize or not.)

I set the "heating" switch to "normal" before malt-in and after mash-out. The PID parameters were derived from 2.5Gal water auto-tuning. It is OK but not perfect. The fluctuation at 11:14 was resulted by adjustment of wort flow. The temperature drops after boiling were caused by starting pump.

gfbrew.jpg
 
Quick question for those of you that have recently purchased a GF: Is it coming with the new controller with bluetooth? Or is that a separate purchase?
 
Quick question for those of you that have recently purchased a GF: Is it coming with the new controller with bluetooth? Or is that a separate purchase?

I asked the same thing when I bought mine recently. From my understanding, they aren't available in the states with the new controller yet. The grainfather is available from the grainfather website with the new controller, or the new controller separately, to pretty much everywhere but the states. I'm assuming it will be available here in the near future.
 
Yeah, that there is why I don't live there! I'm sure its nice for a few weeks :))), but sheesh, not for me!

No, its not even nice for a few weeks. Its just miserable when it gets like this... Highs of 0 and below for pretty much the next 2 weeks.
 
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